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1958 Plymouth Belvedere Convertible Jump to page : 1 2 3 4 Now viewing page 3 [50 messages per page] | View previous thread :: View next thread |
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christine-lover |
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Expert Posts: 2996 Location: Sept. 1958 | I am waiting on my grinder to get back so I can shrink some areas of the rear part of the floor before I install it into the car. Never tried to shrink metal this way but I got a 4 1/2" disc and will see how it goes. Doing it by a torch is overkill. Started to clean up the donor trunk floor, that will need areas of patching. You know the vehicle your restoring is so prone to rot that your best donor panels need patch panels. | ||
big m |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 7809 Location: Williams California | Are you going to use a shrinking disc, Matt? If so, they do work wonders. ---John | ||
christine-lover |
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Expert Posts: 2996 Location: Sept. 1958 | Yeah John. Snap on guy today said my grinder should be back by next Friday. | ||
wizard |
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Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 13055 Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island | Wait, wait - what is this??? Shrink disc, please explain further | ||
big m |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 7809 Location: Williams California | Wiz, it's a serrated metal disc that is used instead of a grinding disc, it basically heats up high spots in the metal on a given panel, and shrinks the metal back. Maybe Matt can show a pic of the one he has bought. BTW Matt, thank you for the measurements on the ram mounts. ---John | ||
christine-lover |
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Expert Posts: 2996 Location: Sept. 1958 | Here's the eBay link to the one I bought: http://www.ebay.com/itm/220792075020?redirect=mobile Any tips on it you got John, using it on say 19 gauge metal? Glad the measurements worked out. Your car is now nice and solid! Nice work! | ||
christine-lover |
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Expert Posts: 2996 Location: Sept. 1958 | I spent hours this weekend doing what I did last Sunday, drilling spotwelds in the donor trunk floor and the rear clip that I plan on using panels from. I got my grinder back last Friday, but didn't get the wrenches for it. I am using 5/16" cutter from Blue Point. The hole saw cutter tool I use has a pointed awl, whereas the Blair one has a drill bit which at times walks. | ||
henricthornsund |
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Location: Sweden | Very nice work, Matt! I am eagerly watching your thread for progress, it inspires a lot to work on my own car. I love the icy pics where she is parked in the driveway among the trucks! Edited by henricthornsund 2013-06-02 2:03 AM | ||
christine-lover |
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Expert Posts: 2996 Location: Sept. 1958 | Thanks for the kind words Henric. There's a lot of inspiration on this site, it's helped me many times! This part of restoration is hard since a lot of this is new to me. Chassis and undercarriage restoration is what I'm looking forward too. You should start a thread on your car. I'd love to see it! You have a convertible, correct? And do you own the hardtop in your avatar? | ||
henricthornsund |
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Location: Sweden | You are welcome, Matt. Yes, i really do admire your work, your car really landed in the right hands. The car on My avatar is sold to a fellow swedish Christine fan, very solid car without any repairs or needs of it. I sold the car to him about six months ago. I have now settled for a car that i think you are already familiar with; the black convertible that has been around on the forums for a while. The car is now registered and all here in Sweden and i have driven it a lot this far. We went to a big car show in Hässleholm in may 25th and everything has gone well this far. I have done a little work to it such as new wheel bearings, water pump, polishing and a nice set of bumper wings. I got the build record with the car and have done a bit of investigation by now. It was canyon gold with a white top originally with sport tone trim, power pack, tinted glass, power steering, padded dash and torqueflite. It needs a new floor but besides from that, she is quite healthy. Her panels, hood, doors and trunk are original and unpatched, besides the rear wheel arches, and her current paint is over 20 years old with no bubbles. My expectations were quite low about the car due to the Several short ownerships and negative comments about the car. So i was pleasentely surprised when i got the car. It Will be a Rolling resto, and i am very happy with the car. Right now i am trying to get hold of a new set of custom super cushions for her. I will start a thread on her in time, feels like i have already begun with this long post:) but soon she Will be viewable in members rides. Keep up the good work and talk to you soon. Best, Henric Edited by henricthornsund 2013-06-02 4:46 PM | ||
christine-lover |
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Expert Posts: 2996 Location: Sept. 1958 | Yes, I have seen that car on here many times. I'm glad it's better than what you were expecting. Sounds nice, bumper wings alone really make a 58 convertible look even more awesome, from its profile view the wings mirror the body shape and the aluminum Sportone just sets it off. How far do you plan on going with restoration? Do you plan on repainting it in Canyon Gold? That's a seldom seen color for a convertible, can't say I've seen another. Black and red seem to be the most common. | ||
Powerflite |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 9699 Location: So. Cal | I have had success shrinking panels by using a mig welder and welding a small spot in the panel and dousing with water. It works quite well and is more controllable than an oxy-acetylene torch. Of course the blob must be ground off afterward. Let us know how well the 4.5" shrinking disc works when you get to try it out. Edited by Powerflite 2013-06-02 8:43 PM | ||
henricthornsund |
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Location: Sweden | Matt, no i have not seen one in gold either. And i searched the net also. I am planning to repaint her in the future. My first alternative is original canyon gold, the other is very tempting and it is toreador red like your own car. But i am planning on starting with the interior and floors, its not really rusty but it is incorrectly repaired with pieces from a closed car. A 58 is quite some car in red See this post http://dallas.craigslist.org/dal/cto/3833217390.html | ||
christine-lover |
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Expert Posts: 2996 Location: Sept. 1958 | Yeah, that is a nice one. Would love to have that as a driver until mine is finished. | ||
henricthornsund |
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Location: Sweden | Do you have a thread about your Dodge also? Would be fun to see it! | ||
christine-lover |
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Expert Posts: 2996 Location: Sept. 1958 | Dodge is here: http://forwardlook.net/forums/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=41913 | ||
christine-lover |
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Expert Posts: 2996 Location: Sept. 1958 | Powerflite - 2013-06-02 8:42 PM I have had success shrinking panels by using a mig welder and welding a small spot in the panel and dousing with water. It works quite well and is more controllable than an oxy-acetylene torch. Of course the blob must be ground off afterward. Let us know how well the 4.5" shrinking disc works when you get to try it out. Thanks, I'll have to try that. I used the shrink disc, I need a longer bolt to hold the disc down, I had to shave off some of the rubber backing piece of it to fit on my grinder too. The little bit of it I used, I think it may work, fingers crossed. | ||
christine-lover |
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Expert Posts: 2996 Location: Sept. 1958 | Today I worked on the Plymouth. Using my grinder with shrinking disc I worked out the oiling canning on the rear floor section. I got it back in the car, now to get it lined up and weld it in. The convertible well drain hole is in the exact spot as on the vert floor as well as the holes for the wiring hold downs for the top motor. Edited by christine-lover 2013-06-16 5:16 PM (image.jpg) Attachments ---------------- image.jpg (275KB - 278 downloads) | ||
christine-lover |
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Expert Posts: 2996 Location: Sept. 1958 | Here's some photos of the rusted and damaged metal in the trunk area. Hope none of you guys get tetanus from looking at these photos. (image.jpg) (image.jpg) (image.jpg) (image.jpg) Attachments ---------------- image.jpg (263KB - 253 downloads) image.jpg (299KB - 259 downloads) image.jpg (314KB - 253 downloads) image.jpg (312KB - 266 downloads) | ||
christine-lover |
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Expert Posts: 2996 Location: Sept. 1958 | Here's a photo of the trunk area I received when the seller sent me a whole bunch of photos way back. The stuff between the trunk extension and quarter panel is concrete, it was on both sides. (image.jpg) Attachments ---------------- image.jpg (272KB - 258 downloads) | ||
christine-lover |
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Expert Posts: 2996 Location: Sept. 1958 | I am going to be replacing the rockers, these are bad, beyond bad. Anybody ever replaced full rockers in a 57-59 2 door? I have bought reproductions from Sweden that are 2 mm thick, not junk like eBay ones. But there are areas that doesn't come with them. I will contact a fabricator for help on this. But I want to remove entire rocker, but I don't want to cause structure damage, though I'd like to have the door on when it comes time to replace rocker. Though the door opening is braced currently. Any help/ideas? (image.jpg) (image.jpg) Attachments ---------------- image.jpg (209KB - 251 downloads) image.jpg (208KB - 259 downloads) | ||
ttotired |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 8445 Location: Perth Australia | I would make a rail to go under the floor to suport the body and also to keep the leanth right I dont think you really do want the door on, it will get in the way Just brace as much as you can, if you can make it so the braceing is out of the way of the door, you could fit and remove the door as you go to check fitment. It looks like you will be going up into the A pillar a bit as well You need to get the under peices done first, you will see which ones as you clean it and can see how the layers go. Just carefully remove the layers, cutting away what you have to (save these, they are paterns) and build it all back Easy | ||
christine-lover |
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Expert Posts: 2996 Location: Sept. 1958 | Thanks. That's all the way up the a-pillar I need to go. I removed it because its rotted and it overlaps the rocker. I want to remove the rocker as one piece and have certain areas fabricated using the repros as a base. I just don't want it to flex. I wanted to brace inside the car like Raffaelle and remove the door brace so I could hang door, but I don't know if it will screw up the body. | ||
christine-lover |
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Expert Posts: 2996 Location: Sept. 1958 | This is what the repros include. (image.jpg) (image.jpg) Attachments ---------------- image.jpg (119KB - 250 downloads) image.jpg (76KB - 256 downloads) | ||
christine-lover |
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Expert Posts: 2996 Location: Sept. 1958 | Here's the passenger compartment floor as it currently is. I have been working on the replacement trunk floor lately. (image.jpg) (image.jpg) Attachments ---------------- image.jpg (161KB - 246 downloads) image.jpg (179KB - 356 downloads) | ||
christine-lover |
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Expert Posts: 2996 Location: Sept. 1958 | The trunk floors on some 58s, at least both of my cars built in May 1958 in Evansville, had a single larger rib on the right side, instead of some floors that have 2 much shorter ones. (image.jpg) (image.jpg) (image.jpg) Attachments ---------------- image.jpg (193KB - 259 downloads) image.jpg (197KB - 238 downloads) image.jpg (203KB - 263 downloads) | ||
henricthornsund |
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Location: Sweden | Looks like the bodywork is coming along well, Matt. The concrete was quite innovative, wonder how many projects that started out with a jackhammer some updates also please. I think i do have found a plate for you. Best / Henric Edited by henricthornsund 2013-11-12 4:04 PM | ||
VAN HELSING |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 982 Location: Upper Hunter NSW Australia | wizard - 2013-04-20 6:22 AM Wait, wait - what is this??? Shrink disc, please explain further .......... .... I know this was way back in April but here's a pretty simple You Tube demo of how a shrink disc works. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X8cruauERmI ......... ....... | ||
henricthornsund |
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Location: Sweden | Any updates on the floors, Matt? I scraped my car clean on the inside and i will probably have to replace a part as large as your rear section pictured above. I am about to buy that very piece from a donor sedan and i am a little curious if there is something particular one should have in mind before digging into it? Are you butt welding all of the joints? How do you cut the piece so that the gap becomes ok all the way around? | ||
christine-lover |
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Expert Posts: 2996 Location: Sept. 1958 | Henric- I haven't worked on the passenger compartment floor in a while, it's pretty much done. I was working on the trunk floor but I f**ked up with my measuring of the patch panel and must redo it, was not happy with how the strengthen rib lines up, it was not straight front to back. I figure I'll get some panels fabricated in the next year. The floor panel itself interchanges with all passenger car 57-58 Plymouths. I had to cut and then butt weld it together, like I said, I did this weld line so it will be right under the seat brace for structure. When I install the brace later, it will go over the weld in the middle. Around the edges I haven't welded yet. I will have inner rockers fabricated then weld to the ledge on the inner rocker. I drilled out all the spotwelds on the old floor along the sides, along where it gets spotwelded to the cowl, and along where it gets welded to the trunk floor. | ||
1961plymouthfury |
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Expert Posts: 2637 Location: Minor Hill, TN | Good luck with the restoration . I hope to see more photos during and after the restoration | ||
christine-lover |
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Expert Posts: 2996 Location: Sept. 1958 | This year I've worked crazy hours at my job, especially now with GM coming out with major recalls about as frequently as I take a piss. But the other day I welded strengthening braces inside the body, copied the idea where to weld from Jan Frieburg's rebuild on the 57 Dodge, thanks!!! You are an inspiration along with Raffy and John and others. Also want to cross brace it as well before I cut out the rockers for reconstruction/replacement, that's the next surgery on the list. (image.jpg) (image.jpg) Attachments ---------------- image.jpg (188KB - 257 downloads) image.jpg (186KB - 228 downloads) | ||
LD3 Greg |
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Expert Posts: 1906 Location: Ontario, Canada | That looks better, Matt. But, as I mentioned,weld the bracing on the insides so you can install/ remove the doors as you trial fit, tack and finish weld the rockers in place. Just a thought! Greg | ||
christine-lover |
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Expert Posts: 2996 Location: Sept. 1958 | LD3 Greg - 2014-05-03 12:02 AM That looks better, Matt. But, as I mentioned,weld the bracing on the insides so you can install/ remove the doors as you trial fit, tack and finish weld the rockers in place. Just a thought! Greg I did weld to the inside of the body. That's the plan Greg, as well as getting the car back on the floor when that is being done. | ||
The Chrysler Kid |
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Expert Posts: 1384 Location: Ocala, Florida | Nice work! Is there a thread on your Dodge? | ||
christine-lover |
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Expert Posts: 2996 Location: Sept. 1958 | The Chrysler Kid - 2014-05-03 12:39 PM Nice work! Is there a thread on your Dodge? Thanks Randy. Thread on Dodge: http://forwardlook.net/forums/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=41913 | ||
1961plymouthfury |
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Expert Posts: 2637 Location: Minor Hill, TN | Good luck with the restoratation please keep us posted | ||
The Chrysler Kid |
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Expert Posts: 1384 Location: Ocala, Florida | Bit more patina than expected! Good luck with the Plymouth and that Dodge! | ||
christine-lover |
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Expert Posts: 2996 Location: Sept. 1958 | The Chrysler Kid - 2014-05-04 10:13 AM Bit more patina than expected! Good luck with the Plymouth and that Dodge! Yeah, a little poetic freedom! | ||
christine-lover |
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Expert Posts: 2996 Location: Sept. 1958 | Today, I welded the rear floor section to the inner rear wheelhouses, and started to spotweld the cowl to the front floor. Made sure the floor was level. After that I removed the scaffolding holding up the rear of the body. (image.jpg) (image.jpg) (image.jpg) (image.jpg) (image.jpg) Attachments ---------------- image.jpg (194KB - 238 downloads) image.jpg (214KB - 227 downloads) image.jpg (218KB - 233 downloads) image.jpg (215KB - 232 downloads) image.jpg (155KB - 219 downloads) | ||
christine-lover |
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Expert Posts: 2996 Location: Sept. 1958 | Today I finished spot welding the cowl to the floor. My spotwelder weighs about 40 pounds or so, so it was a work out. Then I put the wheels and tires on it and got it sitting back on the floor. I put a level on the center of the windshield frame and the panel between convt top opening and trunk lid and its level in both of those. Then I removed the door jamb braces. Next step will be to hang the doors, but I cannot do that alone. (image.jpg) (image.jpg) (image.jpg) (image.jpg) (image.jpg) (image.jpg) Attachments ---------------- image.jpg (182KB - 230 downloads) image.jpg (174KB - 234 downloads) image.jpg (222KB - 241 downloads) image.jpg (188KB - 231 downloads) image.jpg (202KB - 236 downloads) image.jpg (187KB - 229 downloads) | ||
LD3 Greg |
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Expert Posts: 1906 Location: Ontario, Canada | Looks great,Matt. I imagine you will have your fingers crossed as the doors are being hung. Please keep us posted. Greg | ||
christine-lover |
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Expert Posts: 2996 Location: Sept. 1958 | Thanks Greg. Today my dad helped me hang the doors on. It was either these or Lambo doors. On the right side the window regulator tang is hitting the strengthening brace, so I'll have to remove some metal on the lower part of it. They will still need more adjusting too, and I should hang the replacement fenders on as well to make sure. The quarters in the future will also be replaced, the drivers side is bad from a shoddy body shop repair when the car was worth very little. The passenger side is just a rusty mess along the bottom and top. Problem with the passenger side is I cannot find a rust free one. It's nice to see the car with some parts back on it and the progress that has been achieved up to this point. For a while in the beginning I was doing so much work with very little to show. Edited by christine-lover 2014-05-18 8:38 PM (image.jpg) (image.jpg) (image.jpg) (image.jpg) (image.jpg) Attachments ---------------- image.jpg (203KB - 226 downloads) image.jpg (259KB - 232 downloads) image.jpg (183KB - 227 downloads) image.jpg (243KB - 230 downloads) image.jpg (209KB - 221 downloads) | ||
The Chrysler Kid |
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Expert Posts: 1384 Location: Ocala, Florida | You'll be cruising in no time looking good! | ||
LD3 Greg |
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Expert Posts: 1906 Location: Ontario, Canada | Well done Matt. It was smart to have left the vent windows in place. It gives an alignment guide for the windshield frame. Just for reassurance! I don't think I would bother with parts of the front clip at this time. Got lots of leeway of adjustment for it later. When the doors are fully adjusted, I would tack weld a stabilizer bar from the top of the w-shield to the rear quarter somewhere before you cut out the old rockers. I would also weld an X stabilizer in each doorway. It is common for all doors to be"jacked out" at the rear bottom edges. It is likely because doors got slammed shut time and again with overcoats or clothing stuck down there. With the door firmly hung, press your leg against that bottom corner and pull toward you at the top rear corner. You will probably "feel" the door crunch a bit and correct itself. If the "crunch" is excessive, I have had luck pulling the door as I indicated and lightly welding a little more around the inner edges to hold it in place. See if you can adjust the doors with those bottom edges in as much as you can. When you add the weatherstrip later it will probably leave those edges back out again! Oh well! Anyway, great progress. Greg | ||
christine-lover |
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Expert Posts: 2996 Location: Sept. 1958 | Thanks guys! | ||
old mopar guy |
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Expert Posts: 1508 Location: new york | All I can say is WOW! Matt what a job! Keep up the good work. Victor. | ||
58wedge |
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Veteran Posts: 133 | Great work ,``that`s the way to do it`` ,and you saved another Forward look forever | ||
1961plymouthfury |
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Expert Posts: 2637 Location: Minor Hill, TN | please keep us posted here on the restoration. With time and patience it will look as good as new | ||
christine-lover |
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Expert Posts: 2996 Location: Sept. 1958 | Thanks Victor, Arne, and Steph. | ||
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