The Forward Look Network
The Forward Look Network
Search | Statistics | User Listing Forums | Chat | eBay | Calendars | Albums | Skins | Language
You are logged in as a guest. ( logon | register )

"Make-Up" your Car!
Jump to page : 1 2 3 4 5 6
Now viewing page 3 [50 messages per page]
View previous thread :: View next thread
   Forward Look Technical Discussions -> Body, Glass, Interior and TrimMessage format
 
sermey
Posted 2010-02-15 10:33 AM (#209646 - in reply to #209388)
Subject: Re: "Make-Up" your Car!


Elite Veteran

Posts: 1080
1000252525
Location: SWITZERLAND

1959 Belvedere Conv - 2010-02-14 2:49 AM Serge, You have a beautiful well detailed car. You should go back in time an be a stylist for Chrysler back in the Forward Look days. Though my 59 Plymouth convert is not at your higher trim level, I will use a lot of the detail points to bring out the best in my instrument panel. PS I have never seen here in the States Dupli-color in the RAL color system. I am in the electrical business now (20 years )and we use the RAL paint system for coloring large electrical enclosures. I will have to see if they market these RAL colors in the US of A. It would help me a lot in getting touch up paint.

Thank you, John. Every one has his own talents. We all have got them for free. The ones uses them more, the others less. I think, most owner of an oldtimer will find and trim his car to a higher level, as soon he has done all needed restorations. Owning just one car is much easier.

The RAL Colors are well defined Color Standards and available on a CD, indicating the RGB (Red-Green-Blue) percents, awell known by  Photoshop-Users. Thus, any RAL Color can be mixed accordingly, and get exactly the same tone.



Edited by sermey 2010-02-15 10:49 AM
Top of the page Bottom of the page
sermey
Posted 2010-02-15 10:39 AM (#209647 - in reply to #209364)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


Elite Veteran

Posts: 1080
1000252525
Location: SWITZERLAND
Oil Cap on Valve Cover: This is another part that can be directly replaced by a similar rechromed one, also available on the market.
Here I preferred to keep the Original Cap of the 1959 DODGE with the script "OIL" on top. Bevor rechroming, the steel filter preventing oil to leak on the valve cover, has to be removed. It can be replaced by a rough stainless steel wool, as used for cleaning pans, inserted with a long-nosed plier. A fine steel Wool would clog when oily and prevent the needed air breathing.

Valve Cover: There are as well rechromed valve covers available, What you see are the rechromed originals. To rechrome with polishing costs more than than a replacement. - SERGE -


Edited by sermey 2010-02-15 1:14 PM




(1959 Original Rechromed Oil Cap LL.jpg)



(Oil Cap Stainless Steel Wool LL.jpg)



(361 Oil Cap on Valve Cover LL.jpg)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments 1959 Original Rechromed Oil Cap LL.jpg (55KB - 353 downloads)
Attachments Oil Cap Stainless Steel Wool LL.jpg (66KB - 392 downloads)
Attachments 361 Oil Cap on Valve Cover LL.jpg (126KB - 386 downloads)
Top of the page Bottom of the page
1959Dodge
Posted 2010-02-15 1:22 PM (#209657 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: Re: "Make-Up" your Car!



Expert

Posts: 2210
2000100100
Location: Yorba Linda, Ca
Nice job on the car "Make up". Maybe when you are done, we can switch cars for a while and you can do mine.
Or you could come out here, weather is great today, probably be close to 30C so come here, I give ya free room and board, while you update the makeup on ny car!!!

Gary
Top of the page Bottom of the page
sermey
Posted 2010-02-17 11:10 AM (#210069 - in reply to #209388)
Subject: Re: "Make-Up" your Car!


Elite Veteran

Posts: 1080
1000252525
Location: SWITZERLAND

1959 Belvedere Conv - 2010-02-14 2:49 AM Serge, You have a beautiful well detailed car. You should go back in time an be a stylist for Chrysler back in the Forward Look days. 

John, I have done some small stylist modifications, Virgil Exner would even be happy about - but not the purists.

Top of the page Bottom of the page
sermey
Posted 2010-02-17 11:14 AM (#210073 - in reply to #209657)
Subject: Re: "Make-Up" your Car!


Elite Veteran

Posts: 1080
1000252525
Location: SWITZERLAND

1959Dodge - 2010-02-15 7:22 PM Nice job on the car "Make up". Maybe when you are done . . .

Sorry, Gary, it is never done. The show goes on! A never ending process.  - SERGE -

Top of the page Bottom of the page
wizard
Posted 2010-02-17 12:00 PM (#210085 - in reply to #209647)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!



Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+

Posts: 12235
50005000200010010025
Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island
sermey - 2010-02-15 4:39 PM

Here I preferred to keep the Original Cap of the 1959 DODGE with the script "OIL" on top. Bevor rechroming, the steel filter preventing oil to leak on the valve cover, has to be removed. It can be replaced by a rough stainless steel wool, as used for cleaning pans, inserted with a long-nosed plier. A fine steel Wool would clog when oily and prevent the needed air breathing. - SERGE -


I used exactly the same material and method with Oil Cap - mine is painted black though.
Top of the page Bottom of the page
Windsor59
Posted 2010-02-17 12:27 PM (#210092 - in reply to #210085)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!



Expert

Posts: 2539
200050025
Location: Upplands Väsby, Sweden
wizard - 2010-02-17 12:00 PM

sermey - 2010-02-15 4:39 PM

Here I preferred to keep the Original Cap of the 1959 DODGE with the script "OIL" on top. Bevor rechroming, the steel filter preventing oil to leak on the valve cover, has to be removed. It can be replaced by a rough stainless steel wool, as used for cleaning pans, inserted with a long-nosed plier. A fine steel Wool would clog when oily and prevent the needed air breathing. - SERGE -


I used exactly the same material and method with Oil Cap - mine is painted black though.


OK! thanks for this tips: It can be replaced by a rough stainless steel wool, as used for cleaning pans, inserted with a long-nosed plier
I must changes the stainless steel wool in my oil cap.
Top of the page Bottom of the page
sermey
Posted 2010-02-24 11:07 AM (#211457 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


Elite Veteran

Posts: 1080
1000252525
Location: SWITZERLAND

Constant Voltage Regulator: This is a thermo-mechanical contact breaker, and cannot be repaired (metallic sealed). It's output is a pulsing 12V,  resulting in an average output of 5Volt. This voltage can only be measured with a long-time integrating instrument. A connected 12V instruments bulb will flash correspondingly. The regulator is used to operate both, the fuel level and the temperature gauges.

I found an electronic device for direct replacement and easy mounting. It doesn't need any additional components, produces a constant Voltage of +5.0V within an input range of  9 - 30 Volts. This device is temperature and short circuit protected, therefore cannot be destroyed. Just move the input and output connection of the breaker to the input / output of the electronic device. The output leads to the fuel level and temperature gauges. The ground (-) is already connected by the fixing screw of the original regulator (heat sink!). Thus the center pad (ground) could be cut. The maximum output current of 1.5A is more than double needed by the fuel level and temperature gauges at full readings.

The readings for two Input Voltages of 9 and 18 Volt, and the water temperature gauge loaded for "normal" reading (sensor simulation R = 22 Ohm, see Pic) have been tested. The output of the device shows a constant value of 4.90 Volt. The original voltage regulator can be left there as is, but unconnected, or it can be removed as shown. On the illustrations the device is not connected (demo on a spare instruments panel), best should be soldered.

Another invisible new technology for a better performance and a higher reliability of your car. - SERGE -  :laugh:

To know: I have purchased some additional devices for interested FWLs and can offer them at cost price: USD 5.00/piece plus shipment by letter (PAYPAL sermey@bluewin.ch).



Edited by sermey 2010-02-24 1:48 PM




(1 - Dodge59 Constant Voltage Regulator LL.jpg)



(2 - Electronic Regulator Pin Connection LL.jpg)



(3 - Reading at 9 Volt Input LL.jpg)



(4 - Reading at 18 Volt Input LL.jpg)



(5- Both 5 Volt Regulators Mounted LL.jpg)



(6 - Only Electronic 5 Volt Regulator Mounted LL.jpg)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments 1 - Dodge59 Constant Voltage Regulator LL.jpg (92KB - 311 downloads)
Attachments 2 - Electronic Regulator Pin Connection LL.jpg (64KB - 363 downloads)
Attachments 3 - Reading at 9 Volt Input LL.jpg (81KB - 334 downloads)
Attachments 4 - Reading at 18 Volt Input LL.jpg (90KB - 385 downloads)
Attachments 5- Both 5 Volt Regulators Mounted LL.jpg (80KB - 317 downloads)
Attachments 6 - Only Electronic 5 Volt Regulator Mounted LL.jpg (93KB - 332 downloads)
Top of the page Bottom of the page
sermey
Posted 2010-02-25 10:15 AM (#211582 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


Elite Veteran

Posts: 1080
1000252525
Location: SWITZERLAND
Remote Hood Lock: Most cars at this era didn't had this option. Everyone could open the hood from front, the ones for curiousity, the others just for steal the battery as experienced many years ago. Thus, I had not a good feeling with an "open" hood on my Dodge.

I found a "HOOD" remote cable (must be from a 1960 Mopar?), purchased later a NOS hood lock on eBay, and now it is mounted. The hood lock arm had to be cut and bent upward for a functional operation, and for preventing from manual open. Then the end of the arm got a thread (M5) with a groove for easy connecting and the fine adjustment of the cable length. The remote hood lock handle is mounted on the drivers left side, under the dashboard.

Now, the battery (and the oval air filters!) are safe, and not anymore opened hood by curious people.  - SERGE - 



Edited by sermey 2010-02-25 4:28 PM




(1 - Hood Lock - Arm Cut LL.jpg)



(2 - Prepared Lock Arm LL.jpg)



(3 - Remote Cabel End LL.jpg)



(4 - Control Cabel Connection LL.jpg)



(5 - Connected Remote Control LL.jpg)



(6 - Remote Hood Lock Handle LL.jpg)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments 1 - Hood Lock - Arm Cut LL.jpg (60KB - 343 downloads)
Attachments 2 - Prepared Lock Arm LL.jpg (59KB - 328 downloads)
Attachments 3 - Remote Cabel End LL.jpg (43KB - 332 downloads)
Attachments 4 - Control Cabel Connection LL.jpg (75KB - 350 downloads)
Attachments 5 - Connected Remote Control LL.jpg (85KB - 360 downloads)
Attachments 6 - Remote Hood Lock Handle LL.jpg (75KB - 359 downloads)
Top of the page Bottom of the page
DeSotohead
Posted 2010-02-25 10:22 AM (#211583 - in reply to #211457)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!



Board Moderator

Posts: 3186
20001000100252525
Location: The not-so-great, dirty-white North ( Michigan)
sermey - 2010-02-24 11:07 AM

Constant Voltage Regulator: This is a thermo-mechanical contact breaker, and cannot be repaired (metallic sealed). It's output is a pulsing 12V,  resulting in an average output of 5Volt. This voltage can only be measured with a long-time integrating instrument. A connected 12V instruments bulb will flash correspondingly. The regulator is used to operate both, the fuel level and the temperature gauges.

I found an electronic device for direct replacement and easy mounting. It doesn't need any additional components, produces a constant Voltage of +5.0V within an input range of  9 - 30 Volts. This device is temperature and short circuit protected, therefore cannot be destroyed. Just move the input and output connection of the breaker to the input / output of the electronic device. The output leads to the fuel level and temperature gauges. The ground (-) is already connected by the fixing screw of the original regulator (heat sink!). Thus the center pad (ground) could be cut. The maximum output current of 1.5A is more than double needed by the fuel level and temperature gauges at full readings.

The readings for two Input Voltages of 9 and 18 Volt, and the water temperature gauge loaded for "normal" reading (sensor simulation R = 22 Ohm, see Pic) have been tested. The output of the device shows a constant value of 4.90 Volt. The original voltage regulator can be left there as is, but unconnected, or it can be removed as shown. On the illustrations the device is not connected (demo on a spare instruments panel), best should be soldered.

Another invisible new technology for a better performance and a higher reliability of your car. - SERGE -  :laugh:

To know: I have purchased some additional devices for interested FWLs and can offer them at cost price: USD 5.00/piece plus shipment by letter (PAYPAL sermey@bluewin.ch).


Serge.....

If you really want to make it look "original", you can mount the 5V regulator on a PC board inside the old regulator housing.
That is what I have done with the Lucas equivalent on my Lotus Europa........

Top of the page Bottom of the page
sermey
Posted 2010-02-25 10:29 AM (#211584 - in reply to #211583)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


Elite Veteran

Posts: 1080
1000252525
Location: SWITZERLAND

DeSotohead: ..... If you really want to make it look "original", you can mount the 5V regulator on a PC board inside the old regulator housing.

This is a good idea, Hank. Then the integrated circuit can directly be soldered inside on the existing pins. It will need a screw for the heat sink, and on the Dodge, the metallic housing of the regulator is bent all around and must be opened (?).  I don't know if the other Mopars use the same regulator.



Edited by sermey 2010-02-25 10:31 AM
Top of the page Bottom of the page
DeSotohead
Posted 2010-02-25 10:52 AM (#211585 - in reply to #211584)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!



Board Moderator

Posts: 3186
20001000100252525
Location: The not-so-great, dirty-white North ( Michigan)
Here is how its done for the Europas.....




(5vregulator.gif)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments 5vregulator.gif (57KB - 342 downloads)
Top of the page Bottom of the page
sermey
Posted 2010-02-25 11:06 AM (#211586 - in reply to #211585)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


Elite Veteran

Posts: 1080
1000252525
Location: SWITZERLAND

This is the same Mopar Regulator. But this one has only two bent edges. The one in my car (see above Pic 5) is bent all around.

The electronic regulator is a similar one, may-be an earlier product. There are many available, from various manufacturers and for different applications. The one I selected is best for our application and, according the datasheet, doesn't need any components at all (internally compensated), and cannot be destroyed (temperature and current protected). This security is a big advantage, thinking the regulator is located behind the instruments panel and not directly accessible.  Not needed, but the output accuracy in respect to the input range as tested is impressive (4.90V). Too precise for cars of the fifties!



Edited by sermey 2010-02-25 11:18 AM
Top of the page Bottom of the page
DeSotohead
Posted 2010-02-25 11:28 AM (#211587 - in reply to #211586)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!



Board Moderator

Posts: 3186
20001000100252525
Location: The not-so-great, dirty-white North ( Michigan)
THe actual 5V regulator is really not an issue. As you point out, several companies make them, including the infamous adjustible "LM317" regulator from National.

As for your housing, I think it is quite possible to bend the four corners up and away.
You might try heating the metal with a small butane torch as you pry, or use a large tip on a soldering iron.

Once removed, you can finish the bent up taba with a small hammer and a piece of steel as a backer to straighten the metal.

Recrimping can be done with a small anvil vise.
Top of the page Bottom of the page
sermey
Posted 2010-02-27 12:28 PM (#211800 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


Elite Veteran

Posts: 1080
1000252525
Location: SWITZERLAND
Fixing the Spinner Hubcaps: I guess these 1959 hubcaps may be the heaviest ones among the FWL- cars. As the spinners are just mounted on the wheel covers and remain unbalanced, an asymmetric radial force is being applied on the rims when driving. The pression to the rims is increased on the one side, and reduced correspondingly on the opposite side. This causes the spinner hubcaps to move slightly outwards on the reduced force side. Mechanical shocks on bad streets to the critical diameter accelerates this process. The front wheels, especially the right side one (for right. hand traffic), are more exposed then the rear ones. I have observed on some hubcaps an outward displacement up to 1mm after a trip of about 500km. Therefore the fit of the hubcaps have to be checked at regular intervals.

Once it happens me to loose the front right spinner hubcap on the original rims. Fortunately I noticed this on the spot and could retrieve it. After that, on longer trips to car meetings, I safety removed the hubcaps. This caused to miss a winner  "best of show", forgetting to put on the hubcaps, laying behind the front seats. Not only, but for best presentation this car needs the original hubcaps. It even happened by an oversight to take pictures without hubcaps. Now I had to find a solution!

Diametral in the 15" chrome-wheels I removed two diametric nuts (the nuts are just dummies as design) and put an M5 inserting-nut instead (as described earlier). The position has to match the air-valve! Then I bent a profile in aluminium as fixing latch,  with an M4 inserting-nut (here in aluminium black anodized) on one end. For each  hubcap two latches are needed. The fine adjustment to the hubcaps is done by rotating and manually bending them on the wheel. The hubcaps need two holes (4 mm) in the groove, not drilled, just by applying multiple times the center puncher in order to keep the border for the countersink screws M4. This two stainless screws are hardly visible, on the picture time position 04.50. I still have some reserve wheel covers for keeping the originality, if one day it should be required.

Now, my 1959 Dodge Convertible will always be fitted with the nice spinner hubcaps, without any stress of loosing them or even being "removed" (get stolen).  - SERGE -


Edited by sermey 2010-02-27 12:50 PM




(1 - Inserted Nut LL.jpg)



(2 - Fixing Latches LL.jpg)



(3 - Latch Mount LL.jpg)



(4 - Mounted Latches LL.jpg)



(5 - Countersink Screw LL.jpg)



(6 - Fixed Spinner Hubcap LL.jpg)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments 1 - Inserted Nut LL.jpg (90KB - 298 downloads)
Attachments 2 - Fixing Latches LL.jpg (65KB - 317 downloads)
Attachments 3 - Latch Mount LL.jpg (73KB - 361 downloads)
Attachments 4 - Mounted Latches LL.jpg (109KB - 341 downloads)
Attachments 5 - Countersink Screw LL.jpg (65KB - 346 downloads)
Attachments 6 - Fixed Spinner Hubcap LL.jpg (124KB - 330 downloads)
Top of the page Bottom of the page
sermey
Posted 2010-03-21 3:09 PM (#215066 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


Elite Veteran

Posts: 1080
1000252525
Location: SWITZERLAND
Fuel Gas Tank Cap: On most FWL-Cars the Fuel Gas Tank Cap is not visible from outside, on many Sports Cars it is part of the design and lettered accordingly (GT, SS). On a nice car, this device should as well correspond to the car, to its design and to the prefences of the owner. On the market there are various caps available, with and without locks. The pictures show a selection offered in eBay. For my car the Fuel Gas Tank Cap should have the properties as:

1. Vented type, preventing pressions in the tank.
2. With lock, protecting the acces to others.
3. Covered lock, to keep it free from dirt.
4. The ability to fix it without key.
5. A nice rechromed design, matched to the car.

Now, when tank up, the nice Fuel Gas Tank Cap underscores the exclusivity of the car.  - SERGE -




Edited by sermey 2010-03-22 6:38 AM




(1 - Various Gas Tank Caps LL.jpg)



(2 - Various Locking Gas Tank Cap LL.jpg)



(3 - Dodge Fuel Gas Tank Cap LL.jpg)



(4 - Dodge Fuel Cap Fixed LL.jpg)



(5 - Dodge Fuel Cap with Keys LL.jpg)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments 1 - Various Gas Tank Caps LL.jpg (115KB - 321 downloads)
Attachments 2 - Various Locking Gas Tank Cap LL.jpg (99KB - 302 downloads)
Attachments 3 - Dodge Fuel Gas Tank Cap LL.jpg (53KB - 358 downloads)
Attachments 4 - Dodge Fuel Cap Fixed LL.jpg (53KB - 320 downloads)
Attachments 5 - Dodge Fuel Cap with Keys LL.jpg (83KB - 321 downloads)
Top of the page Bottom of the page
sermey
Posted 2010-03-26 6:02 PM (#215916 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


Elite Veteran

Posts: 1080
1000252525
Location: SWITZERLAND
Trunk Lamp: Older cars have usually one trunk lamp, positioned in the center of the trunk, near the lock. The switch is in the bulb socket, activated at a given angle or inclination. For a big trunk like on FWL-cars, this illumination can be insufficient at the left and right end, especially when the trunk is dark carpeted. Additional lamps could be useful.

I found Lamp Units with integrated switch, for individually On or Off. As separate switch, the same system is used as in the doors for the dome lamps. This switch is mounted by a bracket behind the trunk hinge (left side) the way, that at closed trunk the lamps goes off. Two lamp units are fixed, left and right, not visible on top in the upper corner. The needed electrical supply is already there.

Another discreet adds-on. At night the opened trunk appear wider and more generous, as the car
already is. - SERGE - 


Edited by sermey 2010-03-26 6:35 PM




(1 - Trunk Light LL.jpg)



(2 - Trunk Lamp Units LL.jpg)



(3 - Trunk Light Switch LL.jpg)



(4 - Mounted Lamp Unit LL.jpg)



(5 - Trunk Lamp Unit Left Side View LL.jpg)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments 1 - Trunk Light LL.jpg (51KB - 346 downloads)
Attachments 2 - Trunk Lamp Units LL.jpg (65KB - 316 downloads)
Attachments 3 - Trunk Light Switch LL.jpg (67KB - 333 downloads)
Attachments 4 - Mounted Lamp Unit LL.jpg (80KB - 342 downloads)
Attachments 5 - Trunk Lamp Unit Left Side View LL.jpg (81KB - 324 downloads)
Top of the page Bottom of the page
1959 Belvedere Conv
Posted 2010-03-26 7:45 PM (#215929 - in reply to #211457)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


Elite Veteran

Posts: 1084
1000252525
Location: Arvada, Colorado (NW Denver Metro Area)
Serge, in picure 6 of the constant voltage regulator thread, there is a small blue electronic device with stripes used, is that a diode or capacitor you installed? and why?

thanks!
Top of the page Bottom of the page
sermey
Posted 2010-03-26 11:41 PM (#215952 - in reply to #215929)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


Elite Veteran

Posts: 1080
1000252525
Location: SWITZERLAND

1959 Belvedere Conv - 2010-03-27 1:45 AM Serge, in picure 6 of the constant voltage regulator thread, there is a small blue electronic device with stripes used, is that a diode or capacitor you installed? and why? thanks!

John, this is the 22 Ohm resistor (0.3W), simulating the missing temperature sensor. With this value, corresponding to the warm-up engine, the temp gauge shows 60% reading, visible from the other side.This voltage regulator requires no additional electronic device at all. What you see is the rear of a "reserve" instruments panel 1959 Dodge.  - SERGE -



Edited by sermey 2010-03-27 2:40 AM
Top of the page Bottom of the page
sermey
Posted 2010-03-28 6:22 AM (#216067 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


Elite Veteran

Posts: 1080
1000252525
Location: SWITZERLAND

Water Temperature Gauge Sender: Technical aspects about this device have already been discussed on another thread:

"Defective Water Temperature Sensor"

http://www.forwardlook.net/forums/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=29524&posts=15&start=1

Here just a small "Make-up": The pin has been modified by applying a thread M3. This allows a nicer and as well a better electrical connection. Then the device and the dome cap (M3) have been polished. Under the Sensor you see a rubber O-ring to hide its remaining thread.

Now, one more "brillant" on this car! - SERGE -

To know: Polished brass should be protected by coating with Zapon-Laquer to prevent oxydations and to keep the shiny aspect. This is advantageous for any polished metallic items. On pictures the polished surfaces often  doesn't look as shiny, due to mirroring of the ambient.



Edited by sermey 2010-03-28 6:29 AM




(1 - Temperature Gauge Sender LL.jpg)



(2 - Thread M3 on Sensor LL.jpg)



(3 - Dome Cap M3 on Connected Sensor LL.jpg)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments 1 - Temperature Gauge Sender LL.jpg (51KB - 320 downloads)
Attachments 2 - Thread M3 on Sensor LL.jpg (102KB - 309 downloads)
Attachments 3 - Dome Cap M3 on Connected Sensor LL.jpg (101KB - 308 downloads)
Top of the page Bottom of the page
sermey
Posted 2010-04-03 11:16 AM (#216878 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


Elite Veteran

Posts: 1080
1000252525
Location: SWITZERLAND
Black Painted Items: Many items on my car are black painted. Not the style of anyone, but to me for practcal reasons. When clean, it looks nice, can be partly repainted anytime without perceiving it, is neutral and gives a classic outfit. Finally: black is black, no problems with various tones as a white color. This is my personal view.

Here how I do it, easy and nice:
First brush the surface to remove old paint or rust. Then clean it with nitro-dilution or fuel, using a towel or washing the item with a paint-brush, to be absolute free of oil. The best paint I found and use for years is a spray, mat and includes rust-protection. It has a structure as silver paint and dries within a half hour. When the items are not directly exposed to water or rain, this paint can be applied directly on iron (or other material). For hot engine parts there is the similar "high temperature" spray. Inside the car or in corners, the surrounding can be masked with newspapers or a plastic foil, the hidden corners coloured with a paint-brush, using this paint previously sprayed in a can.

As sample I used a rusty metal bar, here (highly zoomed) only brushed, not grinded or sanded. On the last picture, the black painted front of the engine (over 10 years old). The black paint is slightly shiny as silk, what gives an animated look.  - SERGE -

See as well the brushed and black painted Hood-Lock in an upper post.


Edited by sermey 2010-04-03 11:20 AM




(1 - Black Spray LL.jpg)



(2 - Rusty Metal LL.jpg)



(3 - Brushing LL.jpg)



(4 - Metal Black Sprayed LL.jpg)



(5 - Black Paint on Front LL.jpg)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments 1 - Black Spray LL.jpg (100KB - 335 downloads)
Attachments 2 - Rusty Metal LL.jpg (68KB - 342 downloads)
Attachments 3 - Brushing LL.jpg (69KB - 330 downloads)
Attachments 4 - Metal Black Sprayed LL.jpg (69KB - 330 downloads)
Attachments 5 - Black Paint on Front LL.jpg (115KB - 312 downloads)
Top of the page Bottom of the page
sermey
Posted 2010-04-24 1:01 PM (#220025 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


Elite Veteran

Posts: 1080
1000252525
Location: SWITZERLAND
Aligning the Front Bumper: We all know, the precision on those cars was not high as on cars of today. This becomes apparent on mounted doors, hoods and trunk lids, but as well on bumpers. The front bumper of the 1959 Dodge is especially critical due to its side design - any mis-alignment to the fender is visible. When mounted as it is from original, most are hanging down. Some nice cars as illustrated (1) (pics from thread Vasteras) look as the front bumper will get lost at any instance. This was as well on my car.

Correcting this by an asymmetric support would move the bumper more forward. But the bumper should even be more back to fit as well to the border of the fender. To move it more back, the mounting arms have to be shortened. Due to an angle of about 45deg the arms have in respect to the bumper, the mounting holes would not fit anymore by just cutting them. They have to be welded overlapped as shown (2). The adjustment in forward position then is easy achieved by inserting washers (3). The hanging side to come up can be corrected by grinding the bracket correspondingly.

Recently I improved this alignment by slightly untight the bolts, pushing the bumper on the side up to maximum,  using the car lifter. Then fixing (just hanging) the bumper up, with two adjustable aluminium angle brackets (3) on each side (4).  When aligned and fixed in the correct position, finally tighten all bumper bolts (on Pic 4 you see as well how the Lancer Emblem is fixed, this way already posted earlier).

Now, the front bumper is there where it should be, as it was initially designed.  - SERGE - 


Edited by sermey 2010-04-24 1:08 PM




(1 - Hanging Front Bumpers LL.jpg)



(2 - Bumper Arm Welding LL.jpg)



(3 - Forward Adjustment LL.jpg)



(4 - Adjustable Angle Brackets LL.jpg)



(5 - Front Bumper Fixed in Top Position LL.jpg)



(6 - Aligned Front Bumper LL.jpg)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments 1 - Hanging Front Bumpers LL.jpg (116KB - 319 downloads)
Attachments 2 - Bumper Arm Welding LL.jpg (72KB - 357 downloads)
Attachments 3 - Forward Adjustment LL.jpg (70KB - 317 downloads)
Attachments 4 - Adjustable Angle Brackets LL.jpg (68KB - 356 downloads)
Attachments 5 - Front Bumper Fixed in Top Position LL.jpg (86KB - 332 downloads)
Attachments 6 - Aligned Front Bumper LL.jpg (76KB - 330 downloads)
Top of the page Bottom of the page
wizard
Posted 2010-04-24 3:06 PM (#220038 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: Re: "Make-Up" your Car!



Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+

Posts: 12235
50005000200010010025
Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island
Way to go Serge! You have cured the "American Car disese"! Next to all US cars (exeption from the master renovated ones) has a misaligned bumper. This is indeed a very noticable difference.
Top of the page Bottom of the page
59CRL
Posted 2010-05-01 7:25 PM (#221207 - in reply to #211457)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!



Expert

Posts: 2679
2000500100252525
I see you have a 22 ohm resistor hooked up there, (red, red, blk) I bet for testing purposes, very good. I replaced my old CVR with a 5 volt 7805 today and a NOS gauge. I let the car idle for 30 minutes and the gauge reads 1/3rd, not bad at all. Tomorrow I will take her out for a ride and see where the gauge reads. Too much rain today. Thanks Sermey for the research and pics.
Top of the page Bottom of the page
sermey
Posted 2010-05-01 7:52 PM (#221211 - in reply to #221207)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


Elite Veteran

Posts: 1080
1000252525
Location: SWITZERLAND

59CRL - 2010-05-02 1:25 AM I see you have a 22 ohm resistor hooked up there, (red, red, blk) I bet for testing purposes, very good. I replaced my old CVR with a 5 volt 7805 today and a NOS gauge. I let the car idle for 30 minutes and the gauge reads 1/3rd, not bad at all. Tomorrow I will take her out for a ride and see where the gauge reads. Too much rain today. Thanks Sermey for the research and pics.

Correct, the 22Ohm Resistor substitutes the sensor. This was technically discussed in the thread:

"Defective Water Temperature Sensor"

http://www.forwardlook.net/forums/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=29524&posts=22&start=1

Top of the page Bottom of the page
59CRL
Posted 2010-08-06 11:44 AM (#235888 - in reply to #221211)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!



Expert

Posts: 2679
2000500100252525
sermey - 2010-05-01 7:52 PM

59CRL - 2010-05-02 1:25 AM I see you have a 22 ohm resistor hooked up there, (red, red, blk) I bet for testing purposes, very good. I replaced my old CVR with a 5 volt 7805 today and a NOS gauge. I let the car idle for 30 minutes and the gauge reads 1/3rd, not bad at all. Tomorrow I will take her out for a ride and see where the gauge reads. Too much rain today. Thanks Sermey for the research and pics.

Correct, the 22Ohm Resistor substitutes the sensor. This was technically discussed in the thread:

"Defective Water Temperature Sensor"

http://www.forwardlook.net/forums/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=29524&posts=22&start=1



Bringing this thread back for an update. Sitting at idle with my 7805 voltage regulator I get 1/3rd on the temp gauge. Driving down the highway at
temperatures of 95-100 degrees the gauge will read the same. Sitting in 100 degree heat with the engine idling the gauge will creep upto 3/4.
Not bad at all.
Top of the page Bottom of the page
sermey
Posted 2011-01-15 11:41 AM (#257083 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


Elite Veteran

Posts: 1080
1000252525
Location: SWITZERLAND
Emergency Car Cover: Imagine, you are on the road with your Convertible. It starts raining. You attempt to put up your top. But unfortunately it won't. May-be due to electrical problems, a defective pump, or it just clamps.

In order to prevent your precious interior and the dash instruments to go wet, cover the car around all the interior with a multiple purposes Polyethylen-Foil (min. 0.1mm, 0.004"), and wait still raining has stopped.  As illustrated, this cover (5 x 4 m) needs practically no space in the trunk (Package 30 x 38cm), and is always and instantly ready to use. ;)  - SERGE -

 

Edited by sermey 2011-01-16 4:10 AM




(Emergency Car Cover.jpg)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments Emergency Car Cover.jpg (77KB - 326 downloads)
Top of the page Bottom of the page
sermey
Posted 2011-03-09 8:24 AM (#264036 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


Elite Veteran

Posts: 1080
1000252525
Location: SWITZERLAND

Bullets for Rear View Mirror: A time ago some bullets have been offered in eBay. Even not an original mopar accessory, they went for up nearly USD100 a pair.
With these bullets the mirror looks rather to be complete.

Now I found "Chrome Bullet Heads" used as Tire Valve Caps in eBay, a set of 4pcs for USD 8.99, 5/8"x1 1/4" in metal. Proceedings:

1. Insert a cylindrical plastic plug inside the Bullet (D:7.2mm L 12mm), put-in a long screw (M4) till end, this will be tight and used for fixing. Reduce the bullet in length (from 30.5mm to 23.2mm) to fit the mirrors end diameter; cut the screw for remaining 5mm. The Bullet is ready for mount. 

2. Remove the mirror nut, drill an M4 thread through, put back the Nut -  the mirror is ready for the bullet.

Now, just screw-in the assembled bullet, and your Rear View Mirror now shows the visible face lifting. The mirror bullets can  easy be removed simply by manually unscrewing, to return to the mirrors standard view.  Another gadget for your FWL Car - if you like it.  - SERGE -



Edited by sermey 2011-03-09 8:36 AM




(DSC04478 Set of Tire Valve Caps LL.jpg)



(DSC04477 Plastic Plug and M4 in Mirror Nut LL.jpg)



(DSC04475 Screw-in the Bullet LL.jpg)



(DSC04474 Face Lifted Rear View Mirror LL.jpg)



(DSC04473 New Mirror with CameraMan LL.jpg)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments DSC04478 Set of Tire Valve Caps LL.jpg (85KB - 322 downloads)
Attachments DSC04477 Plastic Plug and M4 in Mirror Nut LL.jpg (47KB - 369 downloads)
Attachments DSC04475 Screw-in the Bullet LL.jpg (56KB - 347 downloads)
Attachments DSC04474 Face Lifted Rear View Mirror LL.jpg (58KB - 343 downloads)
Attachments DSC04473 New Mirror with CameraMan LL.jpg (77KB - 309 downloads)
Top of the page Bottom of the page
sermey
Posted 2011-03-20 7:44 AM (#265270 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


Elite Veteran

Posts: 1080
1000252525
Location: SWITZERLAND

Door Panel Protection: When assembling the door panel I had to find a way, for not wear the new coating material at the opening of the door handle, when manipulating with.

I took the body of a "Solder Sucking Wick" as used in electronics. This fits exactly in inner and outer diameter, in thickness of the door panel, and as well to the diameter of the handle, as it was designed for this application. Mounted, it doesn't turn at all and doesn't need additional spacers.

Now, no friction at all to the padded coating material when manipulating the door handle - an easy and efficient solution  - SERGE - 



Edited by sermey 2011-03-20 8:15 AM




(DSC04514 Panel Protector LL.jpg)



(DSC04515 Panel Protector Mounted LL.jpg)



(DSC04517 Mounted Protector Rear View LL.jpg)



(DSC04516 Door Handle Mounted LL.jpg)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments DSC04514 Panel Protector LL.jpg (97KB - 332 downloads)
Attachments DSC04515 Panel Protector Mounted LL.jpg (86KB - 333 downloads)
Attachments DSC04517 Mounted Protector Rear View LL.jpg (81KB - 337 downloads)
Attachments DSC04516 Door Handle Mounted LL.jpg (88KB - 382 downloads)
Top of the page Bottom of the page
di_ch_NY56
Posted 2011-03-20 10:43 AM (#265284 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!



Expert

Posts: 1332
100010010010025
Location: ZH, Switzerland
Hello Serge
Thank you very much for this idea! I'll use it too. Thanks a lot.

Happy motoring!

Dieter
Top of the page Bottom of the page
wizard
Posted 2011-03-20 1:28 PM (#265304 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: Re: "Make-Up" your Car!



Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+

Posts: 12235
50005000200010010025
Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island
Another Serge special - recycling and preserving in one step
Top of the page Bottom of the page
sermey
Posted 2011-03-20 2:37 PM (#265314 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


Elite Veteran

Posts: 1080
1000252525
Location: SWITZERLAND

Emblem on Door Panel: On many previous cars I owned, I liked the variety of the emblems. This is as well with FWL-Cars. But what I was always missing, an emblem on the door panel of the 1959 Dodge Custom Royal..

I purchased gloove box doors of Coronets, where there is an emblem exactly complying to my demands. Now it looks as original, as it was designed for.  Another "Royal"  eye-catcher. - SERGE -  



Edited by sermey 2011-03-20 2:42 PM




(DSC04544 Emblem Door Panel1 LL.jpg)



(DSC04546 Emblem Door Panel2 LL.jpg)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments DSC04544 Emblem Door Panel1 LL.jpg (76KB - 360 downloads)
Attachments DSC04546 Emblem Door Panel2 LL.jpg (76KB - 355 downloads)
Top of the page Bottom of the page
sermey
Posted 2011-03-27 12:20 PM (#266108 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


Elite Veteran

Posts: 1080
1000252525
Location: SWITZERLAND

Door Panels: A 3mm, pressed material is used, cut the contour according the door (the lines are not parallel or rectangular!), drill the holes and openings for handle, switches, clamps. Coat all the panel with a premium to be waterproof. Bostitch a protective pad behind the clamps position, then cover all the panel with a soft 3mm padding material as used for upholstery (not foamed rubber!) and fix it with contact spray.

Now comes the vinyl (no glue at all!), just bostitch around on backside and on front under the mouldings, first a few ones, finally all around when adjusted.

The Door Panel is now ready for mount, not seeing the fixing clamps at all. Same nice job for the other panels. - SERGE -



Edited by sermey 2011-03-27 12:26 PM




(01 Right Door Panel Front View.jpg)



(02 Right Door Panel Rear View.jpg)



(03 Right Front Panel Ready.jpg)



(04 Rear Side Panel Convertible.jpg)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments 01 Right Door Panel Front View.jpg (39KB - 293 downloads)
Attachments 02 Right Door Panel Rear View.jpg (60KB - 323 downloads)
Attachments 03 Right Front Panel Ready.jpg (60KB - 323 downloads)
Attachments 04 Rear Side Panel Convertible.jpg (141KB - 292 downloads)
Top of the page Bottom of the page
sermey
Posted 2012-05-25 11:11 AM (#322816 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


Elite Veteran

Posts: 1080
1000252525
Location: SWITZERLAND


Swapping the Door Moulding: When I got my car about 15 years ago, the rear and the door mouldings on the right side have been flatted at their common ends. No way to get some parts at this time, I had to restore them so as to be nearly invisible. Since then I found some of these very rare items. They are in stainless steel, doesn't rust or get pits, but as shown, hardly to restore when deformed. A punch by a door of another parked car - and it happened again!

At last, now I interchanged the door moulding and illustrate here how this is easy done when fixed as described earlier in http://www.forwardlook.net/forums/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=23691&start=51 , within a few minutes and no need of any special tools:
Push up the moulding and keep it back, push down and remove it. Due to the many riveted clamps pressing the moulding to the door, there are no gaps at all along. Finally the moulding can be fine adjusted by moving in height and side position. To replace the long rear moulding, the rear bumper has to be removed.

This is fast servicing as is usual in todays cars.  - SERGE - 



Edited by sermey 2012-05-25 11:19 AM




(1 - Restored Moulding to be replaced.jpg)



(2 - Push up and back.jpg)



(3 - Push down and removal.jpg)



(4 - Riveted Clamps.jpg)



(5 - No Gaps at all.jpg)



(6 - New Door Side Moulding.jpg)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments 1 - Restored Moulding to be replaced.jpg (40KB - 255 downloads)
Attachments 2 - Push up and back.jpg (56KB - 292 downloads)
Attachments 3 - Push down and removal.jpg (62KB - 265 downloads)
Attachments 4 - Riveted Clamps.jpg (46KB - 268 downloads)
Attachments 5 - No Gaps at all.jpg (37KB - 250 downloads)
Attachments 6 - New Door Side Moulding.jpg (66KB - 263 downloads)
Top of the page Bottom of the page
wizard
Posted 2012-05-25 1:59 PM (#322837 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: Re: "Make-Up" your Car!



Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+

Posts: 12235
50005000200010010025
Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island
Hi Serge, nice to see your posts again! As always, very informative and sharing - with concern of our othere FL friends. Thanks for sharing!
Top of the page Bottom of the page
earleebob
Posted 2012-05-25 6:20 PM (#322861 - in reply to #322816)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!



Elite Veteran

Posts: 1120
1000100
Location: Brisbane, Australia
G'day Serge thanks for the email and the link. some very ingenious solutions for FL owners
Cheers
Bob
Top of the page Bottom of the page
sermey
Posted 2012-05-26 5:55 PM (#323004 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


Elite Veteran

Posts: 1080
1000252525
Location: SWITZERLAND

Rear Power Windows Motor: The motor is just mounted on the removable panel with two screws. The big manual gear is turned so as to cover all the moving range of the windows lift. The position of the windows motor must be matched to the gear / theeth for the transmission. So, nearly any windows motor can be used. The wires goes under the sill plate.

Easy for servicing or changing - and it works.  - SERGE -

-





(1 - Rear Quarter Window Motor.jpg)



(2 - Rear Quarter Window Motor Mounted.jpg)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments 1 - Rear Quarter Window Motor.jpg (103KB - 256 downloads)
Attachments 2 - Rear Quarter Window Motor Mounted.jpg (69KB - 282 downloads)
Top of the page Bottom of the page
sermey
Posted 2012-05-27 5:31 PM (#323149 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


Elite Veteran

Posts: 1080
1000252525
Location: SWITZERLAND

Dual Oval Exhaust Tips: Long time I had the feeling, my Dual Round Exhaust Tips, as described earlier here, are too small for this big car.

Looking around I found Stainless Oval Tips AMG Style 350 x 85 x 58 mm, slanted. The lenght fits exactly up to the exhausts suspension. They can be mounted without seeing
any screws, thus looks as original tubes. Furthermore, due to the distance of the oval shape to the inner round tube, the tips will not get any heat tinting. They have only to be cut-out to fit the mounting brackets.
When assembled, inserted and adjusted to the correct position, just tighten the two screws - that's all. Same inverse procedure for easy removing.

Now my Dodge looks more powerful and sporty - a low cost visual power boost!   :)



Edited by sermey 2012-05-28 2:32 AM




(1 - Round Exhaust Tips.jpg)



(2 - Oval Exhaust Tips Style AMG 350x85x58.jpg)



(3 - Dual Unit Cut and Assembled.jpg)



(4 - Unit Ready for Mounting.jpg)



(5 - No Exhaust Tip.jpg)



(6 - Insert Unit Vertically.jpg)



(7 - Push-in and Turn to Horizontal.jpg)



(8 - Adjust and Tighten 2 Screws.jpg)



(9 - New Oval Exhaust Tips - Side View.jpg)



(10 - New Oval Exhaust Tips - Rear View.jpg)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments 1 - Round Exhaust Tips.jpg (90KB - 283 downloads)
Attachments 2 - Oval Exhaust Tips Style AMG 350x85x58.jpg (65KB - 270 downloads)
Attachments 3 - Dual Unit Cut and Assembled.jpg (133KB - 287 downloads)
Attachments 4 - Unit Ready for Mounting.jpg (96KB - 274 downloads)
Attachments 5 - No Exhaust Tip.jpg (46KB - 272 downloads)
Attachments 6 - Insert Unit Vertically.jpg (59KB - 273 downloads)
Attachments 7 - Push-in and Turn to Horizontal.jpg (63KB - 278 downloads)
Attachments 8 - Adjust and Tighten 2 Screws.jpg (73KB - 256 downloads)
Attachments 9 - New Oval Exhaust Tips - Side View.jpg (82KB - 277 downloads)
Attachments 10 - New Oval Exhaust Tips - Rear View.jpg (81KB - 278 downloads)
Top of the page Bottom of the page
sermey
Posted 2012-05-29 10:37 AM (#323382 - in reply to #159205)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


Elite Veteran

Posts: 1080
1000252525
Location: SWITZERLAND

Buzzer on Flasher: In addition to the earlier subject "Directional Flasher" in this thread here pictures of the final Flasher-Buzzer Unit as glued , connected and fixed with a clamp behind the radio (view from bottom). The buzzer is damped for lower alert with masking tape. 

Today I won't miss this option in my Convertible at all.  - SERGE -



Edited by sermey 2012-05-29 10:47 AM




(1 - Flasher-Buzzer Unit - Various Views.jpg)



(2 - Flasher-Buzzer Unit fixed on Clamp behind Radio - Bottom View.jpg)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments 1 - Flasher-Buzzer Unit - Various Views.jpg (103KB - 284 downloads)
Attachments 2 - Flasher-Buzzer Unit fixed on Clamp behind Radio - Bottom View.jpg (86KB - 294 downloads)
Top of the page Bottom of the page
sermey
Posted 2012-05-30 4:34 PM (#323681 - in reply to #323382)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


Elite Veteran

Posts: 1080
1000252525
Location: SWITZERLAND
sermey - 2012-05-29 4:37 PM

Buzzer on Flasher: Explanatory comment

This buzzer sounds intermittend with the directional light flashing. On the 1959 Dodge the indicator lamps on the instruments panel are hardly visible. Furthermore, the flasher unit doesn't sound enough to hear the directional light being flashing. Worst on the HighWay when entering at opened top. Then it happens that the flasher doesn't stop automatically and goes on flashing - can be dangerous for the driver as for others.

Now I hear when the flasher is active, the intermittend tone of the buzzer, corresponding to the directional lights, and don't have to check anymore the instruments panel. - SERGE -  :laugh:

PS: Pay attention to the correct polarity of the buzzer connection!



Edited by sermey 2012-05-31 12:52 AM
Top of the page Bottom of the page
sermey
Posted 2012-05-31 5:53 AM (#323775 - in reply to #323681)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


Elite Veteran

Posts: 1080
1000252525
Location: SWITZERLAND
sermey - 2012-05-30 10:34 PM
sermey - 2012-05-29 4:37 PM

Buzzer on Flasher: An earlier solution instead

Many years ago I did another way to get the directional flasher more audible: Connect the output of the flasher directly to the radio loudspeaker, over a serial circuit of a capacitor and a resistor of more than 100 Ohm.
This doesn't influence the radio operation at all. 
The value of the capacitor determines the frequency band of the ticking, the resistor value the loudness. But I didn't liked this peakish ticking, I find the buzzer solution sounds more calming. But test it yourself. - SERGE - 



Edited by sermey 2012-05-31 7:27 AM
Top of the page Bottom of the page
FIN ME
Posted 2012-06-05 11:33 AM (#324447 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: Re: "Make-Up" your Car!



Expert

Posts: 2791
2000500100100252525
Location: USA - KY

Dang! What a great thread, Serge! I vote that it becomes a "sticky'.

You have an incredible eye for detail, and the heart of an artist!

Fabulous car you have there!

Thank you for sharing your knowledge and experience.





Edited by FIN ME 2012-06-05 11:34 AM
Top of the page Bottom of the page
wizard
Posted 2012-06-05 3:47 PM (#324471 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: Re: "Make-Up" your Car!



Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+

Posts: 12235
50005000200010010025
Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island
Yep, Serge's the man - I and so many others have learnt a lot of ways to improve and enhance our cars from him.
Top of the page Bottom of the page
sermey
Posted 2012-06-06 8:18 AM (#324539 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


Elite Veteran

Posts: 1080
1000252525
Location: SWITZERLAND
Soft Front Styling: A soft styling is only visible when direct comparing with the original. This should just accentuate or hide some style elements being part of its original design, not only on cars - this as well for Ladies! The front of the 1959 Dodge I find just a little bit bulky and massy in respect to the cars smooth lines. I tried to give to the overall front a wider and lighter aspect. On Photoshop I played on various designs. First the two long front bars have been cut in medium and short (Pic1) for lightening, then the verticals on the grille have been interrupted for widen, as well optically. I decided for the mid bar (Pic2), cut the bars accordingly, having a pair of spare for reversing. The new length of the chrome bar matches to the grill structure and the upper chrome moldings. The cut-out length is 78mm, must be done exact parallel to its end (Pic3). The end plates for mounting are easy removed by drilling holes where soldered. These holes then are used for fixing back the end to the shortened bar (4x M3).

Now the bar can be mounted and aligned on the car as before (Pic4). To fix the center needs an additional metal extension due to the moved fixing plate.

This Dodge now has got a soft face lifting (Pic5), appears to be wider and lighter – nice?    - SERGE -

To know: As usual this modification can be reversed at any time.

 



Edited by sermey 2012-06-06 9:11 AM




(1 - Test Chrome Bar Original - Medium - Short.jpg)



(2 - Comparison Before - After.jpg)



(3 - Cut Chrome Bar Medium.jpg)



(4 - 59Dodge Chrome Bar Alignment.jpg)



(5 - 59Dodge Front Softly Styled.jpg)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments 1 - Test Chrome Bar Original - Medium - Short.jpg (174KB - 406 downloads)
Attachments 2 - Comparison Before - After.jpg (220KB - 279 downloads)
Attachments 3 - Cut Chrome Bar Medium.jpg (83KB - 277 downloads)
Attachments 4 - 59Dodge Chrome Bar Alignment.jpg (92KB - 300 downloads)
Attachments 5 - 59Dodge Front Softly Styled.jpg (116KB - 286 downloads)
Top of the page Bottom of the page
wizard
Posted 2012-06-06 1:50 PM (#324575 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: Re: "Make-Up" your Car!



Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+

Posts: 12235
50005000200010010025
Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island
See what I mean! Who else than Serge would dwell on an idea for a long time and realize it as his soft personalizing of the Exner design??!! To me, it looks more balanced and even give the car a wider look.
Also, totally reversible if he should change his mind. Yes, I really like it - who would even notice it in a car show? Some connoisseur might get a puzzled look and think, there's something about this car - others wont even note it!
Top of the page Bottom of the page
sermey
Posted 2012-06-16 6:50 AM (#325833 - in reply to #324539)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


Elite Veteran

Posts: 1080
1000252525
Location: SWITZERLAND
Center Front Emblem 1: As I love emblems on cars, especially on the front, it was the logical consequence for me to experiment what emblem could fit, now as the front was stylistically enlarged. To give some ideas here are illustrated some steps, in two parts, how to get the final result, using tools as photoshop and CAD in combination.

1. D500 Emblem: Having a spare D500 Emblem, I mounted the picture with Photoshop (PS) on the center front. But I didn’t like. Furthermore, the golden knight is looking to the left, on the medaillon to the right. To see it correctly on the picture I turned the head to the right (01).

2. Resized Knight Head: Why not a Resized Knight Head, mirrored to be as well turned to the right? Two knights at a glance, and at different sizes I found too much and corny (02).

3. 500: Or just the numbers “500”, already existing for 1968 Dodge Coronet (03)? I modeled resized “500” keeping the style of the D500 Emblem (04)? On the car I found too narrow, too similar to the 1968 one (05).




(01 - PS Front Emblem on Car - D500 Emblem.jpg)



(02 - PS Front Emblem on Car - Resized Knight Head.jpg)



(03 - D500 and 500-68.jpg)



(04 - CAD Front Emblem Solo - 500 Style D500.jpg)



(05 - PS Front Emblem on Car - 500 Style D500.jpg)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments 01 - PS Front Emblem on Car - D500 Emblem.jpg (95KB - 305 downloads)
Attachments 02 - PS Front Emblem on Car - Resized Knight Head.jpg (94KB - 313 downloads)
Attachments 03 - D500 and 500-68.jpg (78KB - 303 downloads)
Attachments 04 - CAD Front Emblem Solo - 500 Style D500.jpg (50KB - 294 downloads)
Attachments 05 - PS Front Emblem on Car - 500 Style D500.jpg (112KB - 269 downloads)
Top of the page Bottom of the page
sermey
Posted 2012-06-18 6:27 AM (#326026 - in reply to #325833)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


Elite Veteran

Posts: 1080
1000252525
Location: SWITZERLAND
Center Front Emblem 2:

4. “500” with font style of the front medaillon “DODGE”: To match the heavy chrome bars, the numbers are extruded with a slightly conical thickness (06). Inserted on the car with Photoshop as check gives a near original impression (07). Finally I decided to manufacture these numbers.
Using a STEP-File built from the model, a mechanical workshop cut the numbers directly, out of an aluminium-bloc, without the need any dimensions (08). The fixing bolts have been placed in order to fit between the gaps of the grille (M4). Thus there is no need of any modification or drilling (08). I did two sets at once. The one Golden coated I mounted first on the car, and the other I let Rechrome.
Golden I found too excessive (09)(10)(11). Only old ladies may wear a lot of gold – not a 1959 Dodge! Thus I swapped to the 500 Chrome version (12)(13)(14).
 
On the podest, at the last car meeting, the “outsider” speaker announced surprisingly: ”This is a DODGE 500”. -> No – this is just a unique, personalized 1959 DODGE!   - SERGE - 



Edited by sermey 2012-06-18 6:36 AM




(06 - CAD Front Emblem Solo - 500 Style Front Medaillon.jpg)



(07 - PS Front Emblem on Car - 500 Style Front Medaillon.jpg)



(08 - Emblem Manufactured in Aluminium Rechromed.jpg)



(09 - Front Emblem 500 Golden - Side View.jpg)



(10 - Front Emblem 500 Golden - Front View.jpg)



(11 - Front Emblem 500 Golden.jpg)



(12 - Front Emblem 500 Chrome - Side View.jpg)



(13 - Front Emblem 500 Chrome - Front View.jpg)



(14 - Front Emblem 500 Chrome.jpg)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments 06 - CAD Front Emblem Solo - 500 Style Front Medaillon.jpg (65KB - 289 downloads)
Attachments 07 - PS Front Emblem on Car - 500 Style Front Medaillon.jpg (130KB - 308 downloads)
Attachments 08 - Emblem Manufactured in Aluminium Rechromed.jpg (83KB - 269 downloads)
Attachments 09 - Front Emblem 500 Golden - Side View.jpg (135KB - 282 downloads)
Attachments 10 - Front Emblem 500 Golden - Front View.jpg (111KB - 303 downloads)
Attachments 11 - Front Emblem 500 Golden.jpg (144KB - 270 downloads)
Attachments 12 - Front Emblem 500 Chrome - Side View.jpg (145KB - 288 downloads)
Attachments 13 - Front Emblem 500 Chrome - Front View.jpg (150KB - 285 downloads)
Attachments 14 - Front Emblem 500 Chrome.jpg (170KB - 453 downloads)
Top of the page Bottom of the page
wizard
Posted 2012-06-18 8:22 AM (#326029 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: Re: "Make-Up" your Car!



Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+

Posts: 12235
50005000200010010025
Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island
Looks really good Serge - you finally realized the ideas you had for a long time!! This is really a very interesting way of personalize a car and still be able to go back to original whenever one wants to. Careful planning, testing and testing again the ideas digitally and the fabrication and realizing the dream..
Top of the page Bottom of the page
sermey
Posted 2012-06-18 10:46 AM (#326048 - in reply to #326029)
Subject: Re: "Make-Up" your Car!


Elite Veteran

Posts: 1080
1000252525
Location: SWITZERLAND

I know, many will dislike this, keeping strictly all as Original. Of course, if I will feel same one day, I will switch all back - a much shorter project! 

For a “maximum personalization” of my car I should model my original ancestors MEYER Emblem, dated 1756 (Birthyear of Mozart). Interesting fact: this hand-made Emblem has a Diameter of 175.6 mm ! ! !

 



Edited by sermey 2012-06-19 12:23 AM




(Annum 1756 MEYER .jpg)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments Annum 1756 MEYER .jpg (141KB - 289 downloads)
Top of the page Bottom of the page
sermey
Posted 2012-06-18 10:55 AM (#326051 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


Elite Veteran

Posts: 1080
1000252525
Location: SWITZERLAND
Dual Remote Outside Rear View Mirrors: The option of a remote rear view mirror is not exceptional enough to comment here. Other a remote controlled mirror on the passenger side. Here I show how I got it working.

As I decided for this missing option on my car, I purchased 1959 / 1960 mirrors, harder to find than all other Mopar types. The mirrors I got had all more or less visible pits or speckles, and couldn’t satisfy the demands for my car, even they were praised to be “very nice”. When I got total five of them, four with remote and one without, I had no other choice to restore them. Now it was obvious to install a remote one as well on the passenger side, as an exceptional feature.
 
1. The body: Outside mirrors are for a viewer most exposed items - a bad one would affect an overall positive impression. Thus, they should present as jewels.
When the mirrors were disassembled, first the old chrome was removed. Then punched-out the pits as already described earlier (01), and the geometry of the surfaces restored. For finishing the conical parts and the round mirror housings, fixing items were necessary -> a polishing tool and a spray cap (02) to fix them on the driller (03). Now all parts have become ready to be copper-plated (04). With the fine polishing at home (!), nickel- and chrome-plating externally, the bodies have become ready for assembling.

2. The control wire: I found Nylon covered multi strand stainless wire (05), for minimum friction needed in the longer control line (180cm), and matching the specs of the original wire (D 0.85mm / 30kp breaking strength). The difference of the wires is shown in (06). On the rear of the mirror, additional holes are drilled, enabling to swap the wires and fix them as original by a node (07). These holes then are closed with plastic plugs, and all looks again as it should be (08).
(will be continued)



Edited by sermey 2012-06-18 10:58 AM




(01 - Punched-out pits.jpg)



(02 - Fixing items.jpg)



(03 - Fine grinding the surface.jpg)



(04 - Restored bodies ready for copper plate.jpg)



(05 - Nylon covered multi strand Stainless Wire.jpg)



(06 - Comparison Original to coated Stainless Wire.jpg)



(07 - Swapping the wires in the mirror.jpg)



(08 - New wires and holes plugged.jpg)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments 01 - Punched-out pits.jpg (114KB - 286 downloads)
Attachments 02 - Fixing items.jpg (69KB - 303 downloads)
Attachments 03 - Fine grinding the surface.jpg (95KB - 278 downloads)
Attachments 04 - Restored bodies ready for copper plate.jpg (160KB - 324 downloads)
Attachments 05 - Nylon covered multi strand Stainless Wire.jpg (111KB - 285 downloads)
Attachments 06 - Comparison Original to coated Stainless Wire.jpg (91KB - 290 downloads)
Attachments 07 - Swapping the wires in the mirror.jpg (62KB - 309 downloads)
Attachments 08 - New wires and holes plugged.jpg (94KB - 304 downloads)
Top of the page Bottom of the page
Jump to page : 1 2 3 4 5 6
Now viewing page 3 [50 messages per page]
Jump to forum :
Search this forum
Printer friendly version
E-mail a link to this thread



(Delete all cookies set by this site)