Front Seats: The seat and the backrest cannot be adjusted. They have a fixed angle, as it was on all former American cars I owned. I found always the backrest a little bit too steep and uncomfortable (1). Thus, the first modification I used to do was to increase the angle between seat and backrest.
First remove backseat for easier handling. On the swivel seat, just rasp on each side near the both hinges, where the backrest is stopped, about 4.5mm deep (2). In back position the seat should fit on both sides (3). The angle then will increase from about 97deg to 103deg (90 + 13) (4).
Now, simply by a minor “surgical operation”, sitting in the car feels more relaxing and comfortable (5).  - SERGE -    

To know: The 6-way seat adjuster tilts the entire seat.

(1 - Front backseat before modification.jpg)

(2 - Front backseat rasped 4.5mm.jpg)

(3 - Front backseat in new position .jpg)

(4 - Final backseat angle 103deg.jpg)

(5 - Both front backseats modified.jpg)

1 - Front backseat before modification.jpg (121KB - 713 downloads)

2 - Front backseat rasped 4.5mm.jpg (93KB - 731 downloads)

3 - Front backseat in new position .jpg (92KB - 727 downloads)

4 - Final backseat angle 103deg.jpg (127KB - 722 downloads)

5 - Both front backseats modified.jpg (134KB - 709 downloads)

Dual Rear Antenna Connection: At the end of the fifties in cars mostly radios for long waves (LF: 148.5kHz – 283.5kHz, 2000m - 1058m) and medium waves (MF: 520kHz – 1620kHz, 576m -185m ), with a bandwidth of 9kHz have been usual. For these radios, the option of dual rear antennas have been offered (1). Later, with radios for very short waves (VHF: 1m – 10m, UHF: 10cm – 1m), the dual rear antennas disappeared, due to interference and as result fading. On FWL-cars the dual rear antennas have a distance of 154.5cm (to relate with the RF wave length). They are parallel-connected with a coupler. The original has wrapped antenna cable (2). The repro needs a plugged cable extension (3). The so coupled dual antennas then will work without problems when connected to an original MF-radio. For best reception, this radio should be optimized in sensitivity by adjusting the capacitor trimmer near the antenna input (4) (5).
To a modern radio only one of these antennas should be connected, the second antenna, as stated, to the original MF- radio, or when removed or not working, just left unconnected.
My car has two radio receivers: the original radio type 857, (MF range “5 – 16”) located in the center of the dashboard (6), the loudspeaker as well on top center dashboard (*). The other multi-band stereo receiver with musicassette player and remote controle is hidden in the glove box. (7), the 6 loudspeakers are on both front bottom sides and on the rear.
 Accordingly there are two separate antenna cables from the dual antennas, both along the right side under the sill plate to the radios. The rear left antenna leads to the original radio, the line here  is longer and less loss-sensitive at lower RF-signals, the rear right antenna goes to the modern radio needing a shorter cable, with low capacity as used today.
Now, both radios work independently, even simultaneously, without any interference and fading (8).  – SERGE –    

(*) Details about the radio: http://www.forwardlook.net/forums/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=23691&...

 

Edited by sermey 2012-07-26 7:58 AM

(1 - Set of Dual Rear Antennas NOS.jpg)

(2 - Original Dual Rear Antenna Coupler.jpg)

(3 - Repro Dual Rear Antenna Coupler.jpg)

(4 - Capacitor Trimmer - Inside View.jpg)

(5 - Hex Head Capacitor Trimmer - Outside View right side of radio.jpg)

(6 - Original 1959 DODGE Radio.jpg)

(7 - Multiband Musicassette Radio in Glovebox.jpg)

(8 - Two different Car-Radios.jpg)

Attachments
----------------
1 - Set of Dual Rear Antennas NOS.jpg (90KB - 712 downloads)
2 - Original Dual Rear Antenna Coupler.jpg (74KB - 742 downloads)
3 - Repro Dual Rear Antenna Coupler.jpg (59KB - 751 downloads)
4 - Capacitor Trimmer - Inside View.jpg (91KB - 721 downloads)
5 - Hex Head Capacitor Trimmer - Outside View right side of radio.jpg (80KB - 770 downloads)
6 - Original 1959 DODGE Radio.jpg (119KB - 744 downloads)
7 - Multiband Musicassette Radio in Glovebox.jpg (106KB - 726 downloads)
8 - Two different Car-Radios.jpg (92KB - 699 downloads)

Front Seats 2: For those who want this modification to be reversible, here I did the seatback angle adjustable, to a fixed angle:
Cut on both sides of the lower seat hinge in the upper end a thread of M6 and insert a headless Allen screw of 10mm length (6).
Now the modified seatback angle (7) can be re-set to its original position (8) by compensating the rasped 4.5mm with the screw. Or you can adjust the angle to a minor amount to your best comfort (9).  - SERGE -

N.B. As I like my fixed setting, these pictures are real-view mounted for illustration on PS.

Edited by sermey 2012-07-27 3:10 AM

(6 - Headless Allen screw.jpg)

(7 - Max Seatback angle.jpg)

(8 - Reset Seatback angle.jpg)

(9 - Visible Adjustable Backseat.jpg)

Attachments
----------------
6 - Headless Allen screw.jpg (80KB - 725 downloads)
7 - Max Seatback angle.jpg (102KB - 672 downloads)
8 - Reset Seatback angle.jpg (90KB - 665 downloads)
9 - Visible Adjustable Backseat.jpg (123KB - 740 downloads)

FIN ME - 2012-08-02 4:57 PM Amazing stuff, Serge! Thank you for posting all of this...you should write a book! Great photos...please keep them coming! :)

Thanks for your kind comment, and to all the many people viewing this thread. Three hints to the photos: - 1. clean the item - 2. remove around all what not needed - 3. then at all if possible: NO flash to keep the deepness! - SERGE -

Fuel Alert Contact: In addition to: http://www.forwardlook.net/forums/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=23691&posts=173&start=41
I sacrificed various samples of micro-switches because their body was not resistant to fuel (01). Then I applied a simple way to get a cursor controlled contact, to switch ON a LED before the fuel tank is empty.
I used a copper plated board (PCB) as used in electronics. Then separated the copper plating in two sectors by grinding, one side A soldering to the ground and fixing, the other side B leading to the LED by a separate (black) wire. The hand-made cursor is soldered to the turning axis of the variable resistor (02). It needs an additional pad, very well sealed to the fuel (3). Inside, the wire is soldered (4). Just before the fuel tank is empty, the cursor grounds the LED to switch it ON. The other pad of the LED is connected to +5V (regulator), over a resistor of 180 – 470Ohm to fix the brightness.

Now, when the LED goes on, I read the odometer and know exactly how far the remaining fuel will last, independent of the vague fuel gauge reading (05). For today cars nothing exceptional, but all the more on a fifties car.  – SERGE -

N.B. The elegant solution is using a differetial OPAMP, no extra wires, but same variable resistor. Finally I was restoring a car, not again designing an electronic device.

(01 - Micro-Switch.jpg)

(02 - Mopar Fuel Sending Unit.jpg)

(03 - View PCB and Cursor on Resistor Unit.jpg)

(04 - View Fuel Tank Unit Connections Side.jpg)

(05 - View Fuel Tank Unit Fuel Side .jpg)

(06 - LED Alert at Empty Fuel Tank.jpg)

01 - Micro-Switch.jpg (100KB - 732 downloads)

02 - Mopar Fuel Sending Unit.jpg (67KB - 722 downloads)

03 - View PCB and Cursor on Resistor Unit.jpg (108KB - 735 downloads)

04 - View Fuel Tank Unit Connections Side.jpg (101KB - 736 downloads)

05 - View Fuel Tank Unit Fuel Side .jpg (99KB - 698 downloads)

06 - LED Alert at Empty Fuel Tank.jpg (130KB - 706 downloads)

Wider tires: Modern wider tires transform a car visually to a more powerful vehicle. This is obvious when comparing two tire types next to each other on the similar FWL-Car: Original Dodge Diagonal Type, and replacement Radial Type (01). This and the much better stability on the street, mainly in curves and when braking, brought me to do this switch. First, shortly abstract considerations on dimensions:
_________________________________________________________________________________________
Diagonal Type 225/75/14”
DW = 355.6mm : [Diameter of Wheel (DW)14": 14 x 25.4mm= 355.6mm (1" = 25.4mm)]
HT = 168.75mm :[Height of the Tire (HT): 225mm x 75% = 168.75mm]
OD = 693.1mm : [Overall Diameter (OD): DW + (2 x HT) = 355.6mm + 337.5mm = 693.1mm (or 27.3")]
CC = 2176mm : [Circumference (CC): OD x 3.14 (pi) = 693.1mm x 3.14 = 2176.334 mm (or 85.7")]

Radial Type 235/70/15”
DW = 381mm : [Diameter of the Wheel (DW)15": DW = 15 x 25.4mm= 381mm]
HT = 164.5mm : [Height of the Tire (HT): HT = 235mm x 70% = 164.5mm]
OD = 710mm : [Overall Diameter (OD): OD = DW + (2 x HT) = 381mm + 329mm = 710mm (or 27.9")]
Overall Diameter measured OD = 708mm – I wonder how accurate (02).
CC = 2229.4mm : [Circumference (CC): CC = OD x 3.14 (pi) = 710mm x 3.14 = 2229.4 mm (or 87.7")]
____________________________________________________________________________________________
Differences and effects on car:
The Circumference CC (235/70/15") is 2.4% longer than the CC (225/70/14"). At same speedometer reading, now the car will run 2.4% faster. This difference is just tolerable without modifying the speedometer. Or otherwise: the speedometer will show 2.4% less at same speed. To calibrate the speedometer when needed, the return-spring in the speedometer should be lowered by lengthen, as calibrating mechanical watches.
The Overall Diameter OD (235/70/15") is 16.9mm bigger, thus the car will stay about this half amount higher. For the front this can be compensated by adjusting the torsion bars, and for the rear by setting down the high jackers.
The Wheel Distance with tires 8.00 x 14” is factory given by 60.9” (03) or 1546.8mm, on my car with the wider tires it is 1624mm, about 77mm more.
There is a noticeable difference in the Road Contact when measured: the Diagonal Type 125mm (04), and the Radial Type 175mm (05). This is 40% more! Highlighted the rear left tire on the street (06), or another front view (07).
Wider tires offer more security and power-feeling in one step. Just keep the original hubcaps on the car, and keep as well in reserve the original wheels. – SERGE –  

P.S. (01) Partly Picture: Quentin Willson “Classic American Cars”

(01 - Comparison Front View.jpg)

(02 - Measured Radial Overall Diameter 708mm.jpg)

(03 - 1959 Dodge Promoted Tire 800 x 14in.jpg)

(04 - Measured Diagonal Road Contact 125mm.jpg)

(05 - Measured Radial Road Contact 175mm.jpg)

(06 - Rear View zoomed Left Radial Contact on Road.jpg)

(07 - Front View Radial Contact on Road.jpg)

01 - Comparison Front View.jpg (160KB - 706 downloads)

02 - Measured Radial Overall Diameter 708mm.jpg (104KB - 698 downloads)

03 - 1959 Dodge Promoted Tire 800 x 14in.jpg (90KB - 734 downloads)

04 - Measured Diagonal Road Contact 125mm.jpg (130KB - 699 downloads)

05 - Measured Radial Road Contact 175mm.jpg (111KB - 714 downloads)

06 - Rear View zoomed Left Radial Contact on Road.jpg (114KB - 725 downloads)

07 - Front View Radial Contact on Road.jpg (118KB - 707 downloads)

Thank you and as new member welcome on this site.

What you see here is mostly “cold coffee”, because the restoration was completed about 15 years ago. At this time I had no digital camera. Now, not so easy to comment and particular to show “before – after”. Sometimes I must use pictures of other cars as reference.  - SERGE - 

A useful option that make sense. I will have a look at. - SERGE -

Filling Fine Scripts: For fine letters, standard paints will sometimes “over-layer” when filling. For this purpose, the thinnest paint I found was the Permanent Refill Ink (01), used for water resistant marker felt pens. It is very fast-drying and has a high coverage.
Apply with an ultra fine brush or needle (*), and when dried, remove the over-paint simply by rubbing with the finger or a school rubber. If too resistive use a fine cloth, moistened with solvent without pressing.
Now, the newly filled fine scripts have got a much higher contrast and thus become significantly better readable.  – SERGE -     

(*) A felt pen is not suitable for a homogeneous coating on metal.

(01 - Refill Ink Permanent Marker.jpg)

(02 - Filling fine script MIRROR.jpg)

(03 - Filling fine script HOOD.jpg)

01 - Refill Ink Permanent Marker.jpg (97KB - 708 downloads)

02 - Filling fine script MIRROR.jpg (108KB - 698 downloads)

03 - Filling fine script HOOD.jpg (61KB - 725 downloads)

Polished stainless cap nuts (4) underline the overall harmonic style of the engine compartment (5).  - SERGE -

(1 - Automotive Gasket.jpg)

(2 - Aligned Valve Cover.jpg)

(3 - Valve Cover Hold-Down Bracket.jpg)

(4 - Fixed Valve Cover.jpg)

(5 - Valve Cover Top View.jpg)

1 - Automotive Gasket.jpg (72KB - 773 downloads)

2 - Aligned Valve Cover.jpg (93KB - 742 downloads)

3 - Valve Cover Hold-Down Bracket.jpg (120KB - 693 downloads)

4 - Fixed Valve Cover.jpg (117KB - 698 downloads)

5 - Valve Cover Top View.jpg (136KB - 712 downloads)

Carpets and Floor Mats 1: With my 1959 Dodge Convertible I got white Knight Rubber Mats I never saw elsewhere. I found these exceptional and thus present them here. The Side Emblem ot the front mat seems to be equal to the Center Emblem.

Since restored, I used other Carpets and Floor Mats in my car, and will thread them in a next part to come.  - SERGE -

(01 - 1959 Knight Rubber Mats Front - Rear.jpg)

(02 - Knight Mat - Front Center Emblem.jpg)

(03 - Knight Mat - Rear Center Emblem.jpg)

(04 - Knight Mat - Rear Side Emblem.jpg)

01 - 1959 Knight Rubber Mats Front - Rear.jpg (150KB - 804 downloads)

02 - Knight Mat - Front Center Emblem.jpg (122KB - 685 downloads)

03 - Knight Mat - Rear Center Emblem.jpg (94KB - 683 downloads)

04 - Knight Mat - Rear Side Emblem.jpg (99KB - 710 downloads)

Now this Chrome Metal Shroud makes multiple sense: protection, outfit and an improved cooling at longer stop (13).   - SERGE -   

Comment: If you find a standard shroud fitting the radiator you will save some handiwork, but will have to disassemble some items!

(01 - Unprotected Fan - Water Hose Removed.jpg)

(02 - Short Metal Shroud Mounted.jpg)

(03 - Heat Protective Mat.jpg)

(04 - Protective Heat Protective Mat under Fan.jpg)

(05 - Metal Shroud Ready for Cut.jpg)

(06 - Cut-Out for Water Hose.jpg)

(07 - Cut-Out for Generator Belt.jpg)

(08 - Bottom View Trans Line.jpg)

(09 - Bent for under Trans Lines.jpg)

(10 - Lower Metal Shroud Cut - Outside View.jpg)

(11 - Lower Metal Shroud Cut - Inside View.jpg)

(12 - Short and Long Metal Shroud - Cut.jpg)

(13 - Chrome Metal Shroud 170mm - Top View.jpg)

01 - Unprotected Fan - Water Hose Removed.jpg (153KB - 693 downloads)

02 - Short Metal Shroud Mounted.jpg (137KB - 704 downloads)

03 - Heat Protective Mat.jpg (116KB - 698 downloads)

04 - Protective Heat Protective Mat under Fan.jpg (100KB - 735 downloads)

05 - Metal Shroud Ready for Cut.jpg (94KB - 672 downloads)

06 - Cut-Out for Water Hose.jpg (112KB - 696 downloads)

07 - Cut-Out for Generator Belt.jpg (82KB - 703 downloads)

08 - Bottom View Trans Line.jpg (138KB - 709 downloads)

09 - Bent for under Trans Lines.jpg (114KB - 715 downloads)

10 - Lower Metal Shroud Cut - Outside View.jpg (108KB - 737 downloads)

11 - Lower Metal Shroud Cut - Inside View.jpg (114KB - 701 downloads)

12 - Short and Long Metal Shroud - Cut.jpg (101KB - 706 downloads)

13 - Chrome Metal Shroud 170mm - Top View.jpg (133KB - 699 downloads)

Emblem on Ash Tray: As already shown earlier in this thread, I had fixed the small Knight Head (01) on the ash tray. It is the same as already on the steering wheel. Looking a little bit “lost”, I replaced it now by the more sophisticated emblem

used on the Glove Box of the 1959 Coronet (02-03). If nicer to put there an emblem, particulary this new one depends on each personal taste (04-05).

Anyway, as lover of emblems I like it. Another eye-catcher!   - SERGE -   :laugh: 

(01 Small Knight Head 25.jpg)

(02 1959 Glove Box Medaillon NOS 25.jpg)

(03 1959 Glove Box Medaillon NOS Solo 25.jpg)

(04 Ash Tray Solo 25.jpg)

(05 Ash Tray Front View 25.jpg)

01 Small Knight Head 25.jpg (63KB - 664 downloads)

02 1959 Glove Box Medaillon NOS 25.jpg (95KB - 637 downloads)

03 1959 Glove Box Medaillon NOS Solo 25.jpg (63KB - 641 downloads)

04 Ash Tray Solo 25.jpg (88KB - 645 downloads)

05 Ash Tray Front View 25.jpg (119KB - 654 downloads)

Bright Back Light: When replacing the bulbs by LEDs for backlight, there are various LED lamps available that fit to the socket 1156 BA (01). Here not shown all. The standard replacement LEDs shines more white then brighter. One solution for a brighter light is to use Super Bright LEDs, as the power dissipation and therefore the heating effect remains small. A next step brighter is to use instead of the 1156 BA single lamp the High Power 1157 BA dual Lamp (Turn Signal / Brake), when bridging the two connectors, and adapting one fixing pin to fit to the single contact socket (02). The difference between standard bulb and Power LED manifests in color and an impressive brightness (03).

Now, turning backwards at night, the street is sufficient illuminated, in respect to ground and in distance (04). – SERGE -

(01 Various LEDs BS1156 -25.jpg)

(02 Sockets BS1156 - BS1157 bridged -25 .jpg)

(03 Comparison Bulb - LED -25.jpg)

(04 Super Bright Back Light - 25.jpg)

01 Various LEDs BS1156 -25.jpg (47KB - 667 downloads)

02 Sockets BS1156 - BS1157 bridged -25 .jpg (68KB - 641 downloads)

03 Comparison Bulb - LED -25.jpg (73KB - 646 downloads)

04 Super Bright Back Light - 25.jpg (80KB - 644 downloads)

The Last Emblem: Many years ago I found a nice ForwardLook Emblem with a Dodge Script. Because I liked I purchased, even I had never seen this one on a 1959 Dodge. It got a nice place under the left Front Seat (01). Since then I was looking for a similar Emblem for the right side, but without the Dodge Script - a ForwardLook Emblem should never be mounted Backward.

Now I found what I was looking for a long time (02). It has got his reserved place, looking happily forward as his brother on the left side (03). Another hidden eye-catcher (04).

Was this the last emblem to be mounted on my 1959 Dodge Convertible?  - SERGE - 

(01 FWL Emblem LH -25.jpg)

(02 FWL Emblem Solo-25.jpg)

(03 Emblem RH -25.jpg)

(04 FWL Emblem View RH -25 .jpg)

01 FWL Emblem LH -25.jpg (128KB - 613 downloads)

02 FWL Emblem Solo-25.jpg (61KB - 628 downloads)

03 Emblem RH -25.jpg (118KB - 591 downloads)

04 FWL Emblem View RH -25 .jpg (118KB - 630 downloads)

Flashing LEDs: Brighter light on directional and rear lamps can be achieved when using LEDs of the new generation (01). They about 10% current consumption then standard bulbs. With this low current the common thermostatic operated flasher (02) will not work anymore. Load resistors of about 6 Ohm/20Watt (03) are offered to connect in parallel to each replaced bulb. To keep it low-cost, one resistor can be connected directly at the output of the flasher and will then be parallel to any LEDs in flashing mode. With the load resistor the additional “advantage” of a lower current consumption is lost, but it works.

Using an electronic controlled flasher (astable multivibrator) with relais (04), the flash frequency will be independent of the loading. It is defined by the time-constant, and can be modified by the value of a capacitor or resistor (05).

Simpler is to use an adjustable electronic flasher (06), The pin configuration enables to replace directly the standard flasher. It needs an additional lead to ground. Now the flashing frequency can be modified manually in a wide range by turning the axis of the potentiometer, and independent of load and voltage it remains stable.

The simplest and lowest cost solution at all is to keep all the bulbs connected, but outside the housing (in a thermo- protected and dimmed space), and insert the LED lamps in parallel. The total current will increase about 10% and as well the flashing frequency.

The result with Power LEDs is a Super Bright Rear Light, when flashing and at stop. With the camera the brightest red becomes yellow (07)!

To get a warmer and homogenous white light I covered the front LEDs with a Dessert Cap  (08), only possible because the LED doesn’t heat.

With parking LEDs ON, now the car can keep the battery charge up to one week, at super bright light!  - SERGE -  :laugh:

(01 Power LEDs Red-White Cree.jpg)

(02 Thermostatic Flasher.jpg)

(03 Load Resistors.jpg)

(04 Electronic Flasher.jpg)

(05 Printed Circuit Board.jpg)

(06 Adjustable Electronic Flasher.jpg)

(07 Super Bright Red Light.jpg)

(08 Dessert Cap.jpg)

(09 Damped LED Park Light.jpg)

01 Power LEDs Red-White Cree.jpg (74KB - 610 downloads)

02 Thermostatic Flasher.jpg (93KB - 588 downloads)

03 Load Resistors.jpg (76KB - 599 downloads)

04 Electronic Flasher.jpg (72KB - 587 downloads)

05 Printed Circuit Board.jpg (93KB - 573 downloads)

06 Adjustable Electronic Flasher.jpg (93KB - 614 downloads)

07 Super Bright Red Light.jpg (96KB - 605 downloads)

08 Dessert Cap.jpg (51KB - 598 downloads)

09 Damped LED Park Light.jpg (80KB - 580 downloads)

Dash Pad 1: When I got my Dodge, the dash pad was hard, dried and partly broken. There was no other way then to remove it (01). After cleaning the surface I used the same black vinyl to coat it as for the door panels (02). Applying on both sides enough Contact Glue, as for the arm rests (see earlier post), the coating got softer, could then be stretched and pulled around the edges. Fixed with masking tape I had to wait one week. The instruments metallic insert (03) then mounted over when black painted. The right side rounding was simulated by a coated metal (04).The result was impressive, as shown in 06 – 08. There was just one negative aspect: the surface was not padded and there were no ribbers.

Looking at the old brochure the ribbing is also missing (09), but I think this was a preliminary draft. The illustration in the parts book, the dash pad shows ribbes (10 black), as can be seen on cars with the original pad (11 blue, for Ron).

Today the Swedish company RD Autoline (Tony) reproduces this one and many other dash pads in a stunning originality and at high quality standard. What I saw in documentations is a high skilled artwork.

I ordered one for my 1959 Dodge Convertible and will later report the proceeding in mounting it, in: Dash Pad 2.  - SERGE -

(01 Remove Old Dash Board.jpg)

(02 Black Vinyl Coating.jpg)

(03 Instruments Metallic Insert.jpg)

(04 Vinyl Coated Dash Right Side.jpg)

(05 Vinyl Coated Dash Center.jpg)

(06 Vinyl Coated Dash Left Side.jpg)

(07 Vinyl Coated Dash Board Overview.jpg)

(08 Dash Pad Old Brochure.jpg)

(09 Dash Pad Partsbook Black.jpg)

(10 Dash Pad Partsbook Blue.jpg)

01 Remove Old Dash Board.jpg (91KB - 595 downloads)

02 Black Vinyl Coating.jpg (112KB - 611 downloads)

03 Instruments Metallic Insert.jpg (97KB - 571 downloads)

04 Vinyl Coated Dash Right Side.jpg (96KB - 609 downloads)

05 Vinyl Coated Dash Center.jpg (134KB - 615 downloads)

06 Vinyl Coated Dash Left Side.jpg (124KB - 568 downloads)

07 Vinyl Coated Dash Board Overview.jpg (112KB - 596 downloads)

08 Dash Pad Old Brochure.jpg (79KB - 575 downloads)

09 Dash Pad Partsbook Black.jpg (53KB - 590 downloads)

10 Dash Pad Partsbook Blue.jpg (93KB - 569 downloads)

Weak Hood Spring: When I got my Dodge, the hood had to be kept up with a wooden bar because of weakened springs. Thus I had first to reproduce stronger springs, and found a manufacturer. For an incredible price of CHF 80.00 he produced for me (1994), according the sample I sent him, 3 different pairs of springs, so I could test them on the car (01) and make the choice. What you see are the remaining 2 new pairs.

I kept the pair of spring that just hold up the hood and painted them in white as the car (02). Since then the hood is up as it should. - SERGE – 

(01 Old-New Repro Hood Spring.jpg)

(02 Mounted New Hood Spring.jpg)

01 Old-New Repro Hood Spring.jpg (132KB - 561 downloads)

02 Mounted New Hood Spring.jpg (77KB - 623 downloads)

Hi Serge

With a big interest I'm following your thred. You're like a Wizard here in Switzerland. Thank you very much for all your helpful hints. I'm sure I could use some of your hints for my Letter after it comes back from the body shop. I'm happy I could meet you at Zug on April 20th this year and we'll do the journey to the PBM together. Big hugs.

Till later, take care,

Dieter

Front Light Connections: All wires of the front lights lead to a Terminal Block located in front of the battery (01).

This Terminal Block has 5 connectors (1 – 5 from left to right). For a nicer appearance, it is fixed with polished stainless pan-head screws (M5), the connector bolts are covered with cap nuts, and the leading wires are hold in black (02).

The schematic diagram can be found in the Service Manual DODGE 59 Supplement, here a part restricted to the front lights (03). The connections on my car are originally slightly different then shown in the manual (04). They could not be interchanged because of the exact length of the wires.

There is a nice repro of the terminal connector available, at a reasonable price (05). The connections of the terminal block I added as well in PDF.  - SERGE -

(01 Terminal Location.jpg)

(02 Terminal Block.jpg)

(03 Front Light Schematic.jpg)

(04 Connections Terminal Block.jpg)

(05 Connector Repro.jpg)

01 Terminal Location.jpg (118KB - 738 downloads)

02 Terminal Block.jpg (118KB - 705 downloads)

03 Front Light Schematic.jpg (91KB - 678 downloads)

04 Connections Terminal Block.jpg (77KB - 687 downloads)

05 Connector Repro.jpg (101KB - 692 downloads)

06 Connections Terminal Block.pdf (6KB - 717 downloads)

Push Buttons: When restoring the Push Buttons a time ago, I had to remove the old paint in the letters. All chemical way where to aggressive, I used a soft diluent to be cleaned with water. But this plastic is so “weak”, that not only the paint was removed, but as well the front was badly affected. I had to grind it down and then use letter sticker (01), protected by a transparent foil (02).

Most Push Buttons are irreparably damaged by Finger Nails. It is very rare to find one with intact letters (03). Finally I found now a set in acceptable condition (04).

This time I didn’t use any chemistry at all (05), cleaned them with a soft brass brush (06), and got them all quite nice (07). The paint for the letters (red as used for the Instuments) I applied locally with a needle, removed instantly the color around with a rubber scraper, and when dried grinded the front (08). To fix and center the caps I put some tape around (white), inserted again a protective transparent foil, and for a soft return I added an O-Ring over the cap (09).

Now the Push Buttons look again as they should and are protected from Finger Nails: Clear letters and nice to look at.  - SERGE -   

(01 Push Buttons restored.jpg)

(02 Sticked Letters.jpg)

(03 Push Buttons Ross Roy.jpg)

(04 Used Push Button.jpg)

(05 Push Button Unrestored.jpg)

(06 Brush-up Push Buttons.jpg)

(07 Push Buttons AC brushed.jpg)

(08 Grinding Front Rounded.jpg)

(09 Push Button Assembly.jpg)

(10 Push Button Unit Mounted.jpg)

01 Push Buttons restored.jpg (104KB - 734 downloads)

02 Sticked Letters.jpg (80KB - 736 downloads)

03 Push Buttons Ross Roy.jpg (117KB - 696 downloads)

04 Used Push Button.jpg (113KB - 730 downloads)

05 Push Button Unrestored.jpg (60KB - 720 downloads)

06 Brush-up Push Buttons.jpg (80KB - 719 downloads)

07 Push Buttons AC brushed.jpg (58KB - 707 downloads)

08 Grinding Front Rounded.jpg (90KB - 708 downloads)

09 Push Button Assembly.jpg (77KB - 753 downloads)

10 Push Button Unit Mounted.jpg (115KB - 739 downloads)

Six-Way Seat Adjuster Switch: By a single bar of the switch, all six positions of the seat can be adjusted (01).

Forward -  Backward (5 inches)      Higher -  Lower (2 inches)      Tilt CW -  CCW (18 degrees) (02).

As the initial current of the seat adjustment is quite high, the contacts should be checked from time to time (03) (04).  The color of the wires must be correct, the switch is folded down for rear view (05).

Later I found another switch as spare part, mounted on a chrome bezel, as illustrated in the owners manual (06). This bezel should be on front side of the seat. To keep the nice golden emblem I put it reversed on the rear side - and it fits as it should be. The top view shows the mounting bracket and the power seat motor (07). The red main wire is connected after the circuit breaker located on the top lift switch, this as well the power windows. The chrome bezel is mounted with the two existing screws of the switch, thus easy to remove if one day dislike.

But for now, a bit more chrome on my Convertible! (08) – SERGE - 

(01 Six-Way Power Switch.jpg)

(02 Six-Way Seat Adjustments.jpg)

(03 Contact Elements.jpg)

(04 Power Switch Components.jpg)

(05 Connections Rear View.jpg)

(06 Six-Way Power Switch Owners Manual 25 .jpg)

(07 Top View with Power Seat Motor.jpg)

(08 Power Switch with Chrome Bezel.jpg)

01 Six-Way Power Switch.jpg (103KB - 705 downloads)

02 Six-Way Seat Adjustments.jpg (92KB - 736 downloads)

03 Contact Elements.jpg (67KB - 692 downloads)

04 Power Switch Components.jpg (82KB - 721 downloads)

05 Connections Rear View.jpg (102KB - 725 downloads)

06 Six-Way Power Switch Owners Manual 25 .jpg (121KB - 709 downloads)

07 Top View with Power Seat Motor.jpg (110KB - 725 downloads)

08 Power Switch with Chrome Bezel.jpg (116KB - 699 downloads)

Thank you very much Serge for this information. In my Letter I got a six way electric adjustable drivers seat as well. The switch looks different on a 1960 Mopar, but I assume the basic function is the same - one motor, three clutches.

Happy Motoring!

Dieter

Dome Lamp: With time the plastic lens goes brown and burns out in the center, due to excessive heat by the bulb. This is already observable in the original brochure of the 1959 Dodge Convertible, burned lens zoomed right down (01). As these lenses are highly demanded, reproductions are available up to USD 80 a pair (02). A single NOS Dome Lamp Lens Imperial with crown insigna is offered for USD155 (03).

To replace the lens, the fixing pins on the rear shell have to be bent out with the result that they mostly break off. Therefore break out one of the three pins for the lens can be removed, replace it by a soldered one, and grind a slot in the metal retainer. Now it can be fixed or removed anytime just by twisting (04).

To avoid a newly deformation of the replaced lens by heat a LED, no longer then 35mm, is advised in replacement of the bulb (05). This special bulb has two terminals, plus and minus, the socket is isolated, means not grounded. One pin is connected to plus, the other pin to minus when the door switch is activated. As I could not find such a LED I had to do some “surgical” interventions:

- Unsolder the two contacts and the four fixing points of the socket for removal (06).

- Socket removed (07).

As shown, one contact leads direct to the LED unit for a bright light, the other contact to the same point but over a resistor of 15 Ohm for a lower light. The ground (-) goes to the socket, as expected (07).

- Connect the resistor to minus (for lower light), and cut out the cupper of the printed circuit board in order to disconnect the ground (08).

- Resolder the socket on the LED unit as it was previously. The LED has become a direct replacement of the original bulb (09).

Now the dome lamp shows a brighter white light, without any burning of the plastic lens (10). - SERGE - 

P.S. Numbering of the pictures corrected.

(01 Brochure Dome Lamp.jpg)

(02 NOS Dome Lamp Lense.jpg)

(03 NOS Dome Lamp Lense Imperial.jpg)

(04 Twist Rear Shell for Removal.jpg)

(05 Comparison LED - Bulb.jpg)

(06 Socket Removal.jpg)

(07 Socket Removed.jpg)

(08 Resistor on Minus and Ground Cut.jpg)

(09 Modified LED Inserted.jpg)

(10 Bright White Dome Light.jpg)

01 Brochure Dome Lamp.jpg (132KB - 733 downloads)

02 NOS Dome Lamp Lense.jpg (81KB - 678 downloads)

03 NOS Dome Lamp Lense Imperial.jpg (137KB - 674 downloads)

04 Twist Rear Shell for Removal.jpg (61KB - 684 downloads)

05 Comparison LED - Bulb.jpg (66KB - 715 downloads)

06 Socket Removal.jpg (91KB - 730 downloads)

07 Socket Removed.jpg (50KB - 676 downloads)

08 Resistor on Minus and Ground Cut.jpg (60KB - 711 downloads)

09 Modified LED Inserted.jpg (81KB - 742 downloads)

10 Bright White Dome Light.jpg (114KB - 666 downloads)

Car Production Broadcast: My restored Car Production Broadcast I had already presented a time ago in the appropriate forum. In this thread here I just show HOW I did it, not must be the best way to go – but it works.

Scan the sheet with 1200dpi in precise vertical/horizontal orientation with Photoshop. It needs Win7 64-bit with at least 8MB RAM. The original scan is in the first layer named background (01). The layer 00 is a copy of the background in case of a disaster. . . . (01).

Create the next layers 01 – 06 for individual mastering, and freeze them from moving (02).

The layer 01 is the background pattern of the sheet, sample taken in a clean segment in layer 00. Remember, this background in not a uniform color, thus a pattern!

Next copy the selected items from layer 00 into the designated layers as shown in (02), ready there for clean and restore individually. If the result in a layer is not satisfactory, then just delete and re-copy it.

Examples of restored layers:

Layer 02: Original Text with Grid brown (03).

Layer 03: Original Typed Numbers black (04).

The typed numbers are not upgraded as they could be in order to keep their authentification. When all layers have been restored, merge all in one layer to stay fixed. This will be the final Car Production Broadcast Restored, saved here in a smaller resolution, as JPG-Picture (05), or 1 : 1 as PDF-File with 144dpi (because of the 250k limitation) (08).

The letters and the grid can as well be reproduced instead restored. Here the letters then are taken from the font library (Arial, Bold, Smooth, Color RGB: 207-113-46) and the lines are created by construction, all in Photoshop. In direct comparison to the original in the left, the difference is hardly visible (06). The Original Typed Numbers remains as before (04). Each single number can be selected, copied and inserted individually for another specific sheet (07).

Now, any missing Car Production Broadcast can be re-created by anyone. Happy printing!   - SERGE -

(01 Car Production Broadcast Scanned in.jpg)

(02 Layers Listing.jpg)

(03 Original Text with Grid.jpg)

(04 Original Typed Numbers black.jpg)

(05 Car Production Broadcast Restored.jpg)

(06 Comparison Original Text - New Font.jpg)

(07 Car Production Broadcast New Texted.jpg)

01 Car Production Broadcast Scanned in.jpg (123KB - 755 downloads)

02 Layers Listing.jpg (118KB - 682 downloads)

03 Original Text with Grid.jpg (119KB - 710 downloads)

04 Original Typed Numbers black.jpg (40KB - 680 downloads)

05 Car Production Broadcast Restored.jpg (132KB - 718 downloads)

06 Comparison Original Text - New Font.jpg (122KB - 700 downloads)

07 Car Production Broadcast New Texted.jpg (137KB - 709 downloads)

08 Car Production Broadcast Restored 144dpi.pdf (120KB - 737 downloads)

License Plate Lamp: For a brighter light the bulb can as well be replaced by a LED. The lamp unit is fixed with a bracket (01) (02). The heat of the bulb, consuming 5W, causes the lens to melt partially (03).

As replacement I used the same LED as for the dome lights. The contacts here are brigded for a full power (04). The fixing pins on the LED can be left as is. Just bent out the tab, on the concerned side of the lamp socket, for turning the LED in, view one side and the other side (05).

Now the license plate shines brighter at lower power consumption, and without melting the lens anymore (06). - SERGE - 

(01 Lamp Unit.jpg)

(02 Lamp Unit Rear View.jpg)

(03 Melted Lens.jpg)

(04 Bulb 5W - LED.jpg)

(05 Lamp Socket Bent.jpg)

(06 Bright License Plate.jpg)

01 Lamp Unit.jpg (72KB - 708 downloads)

02 Lamp Unit Rear View.jpg (84KB - 678 downloads)

03 Melted Lens.jpg (71KB - 717 downloads)

04 Bulb 5W - LED.jpg (88KB - 669 downloads)

05 Lamp Socket Bent.jpg (80KB - 673 downloads)

06 Bright License Plate.jpg (100KB - 665 downloads)

Hell! It looks wonderful. Thank you very much Serge.

Did you know, there are LED lamps available with a BA15d socket with to connection points?

Kind  regards,

Dieter