Polished stainless cap nuts (4) underline the overall harmonic style of the engine compartment (5).  - SERGE -

(1 - Automotive Gasket.jpg)

(2 - Aligned Valve Cover.jpg)

(3 - Valve Cover Hold-Down Bracket.jpg)

(4 - Fixed Valve Cover.jpg)

(5 - Valve Cover Top View.jpg)

1 - Automotive Gasket.jpg (72KB - 781 downloads)

2 - Aligned Valve Cover.jpg (93KB - 751 downloads)

3 - Valve Cover Hold-Down Bracket.jpg (120KB - 700 downloads)

4 - Fixed Valve Cover.jpg (117KB - 705 downloads)

5 - Valve Cover Top View.jpg (136KB - 719 downloads)

Carpets and Floor Mats 1: With my 1959 Dodge Convertible I got white Knight Rubber Mats I never saw elsewhere. I found these exceptional and thus present them here. The Side Emblem ot the front mat seems to be equal to the Center Emblem.

Since restored, I used other Carpets and Floor Mats in my car, and will thread them in a next part to come.  - SERGE -

(01 - 1959 Knight Rubber Mats Front - Rear.jpg)

(02 - Knight Mat - Front Center Emblem.jpg)

(03 - Knight Mat - Rear Center Emblem.jpg)

(04 - Knight Mat - Rear Side Emblem.jpg)

01 - 1959 Knight Rubber Mats Front - Rear.jpg (150KB - 813 downloads)

02 - Knight Mat - Front Center Emblem.jpg (122KB - 692 downloads)

03 - Knight Mat - Rear Center Emblem.jpg (94KB - 690 downloads)

04 - Knight Mat - Rear Side Emblem.jpg (99KB - 718 downloads)

Now this Chrome Metal Shroud makes multiple sense: protection, outfit and an improved cooling at longer stop (13).   - SERGE -   

Comment: If you find a standard shroud fitting the radiator you will save some handiwork, but will have to disassemble some items!

(01 - Unprotected Fan - Water Hose Removed.jpg)

(02 - Short Metal Shroud Mounted.jpg)

(03 - Heat Protective Mat.jpg)

(04 - Protective Heat Protective Mat under Fan.jpg)

(05 - Metal Shroud Ready for Cut.jpg)

(06 - Cut-Out for Water Hose.jpg)

(07 - Cut-Out for Generator Belt.jpg)

(08 - Bottom View Trans Line.jpg)

(09 - Bent for under Trans Lines.jpg)

(10 - Lower Metal Shroud Cut - Outside View.jpg)

(11 - Lower Metal Shroud Cut - Inside View.jpg)

(12 - Short and Long Metal Shroud - Cut.jpg)

(13 - Chrome Metal Shroud 170mm - Top View.jpg)

01 - Unprotected Fan - Water Hose Removed.jpg (153KB - 703 downloads)

02 - Short Metal Shroud Mounted.jpg (137KB - 710 downloads)

03 - Heat Protective Mat.jpg (116KB - 709 downloads)

04 - Protective Heat Protective Mat under Fan.jpg (100KB - 743 downloads)

05 - Metal Shroud Ready for Cut.jpg (94KB - 680 downloads)

06 - Cut-Out for Water Hose.jpg (112KB - 704 downloads)

07 - Cut-Out for Generator Belt.jpg (82KB - 711 downloads)

08 - Bottom View Trans Line.jpg (138KB - 717 downloads)

09 - Bent for under Trans Lines.jpg (114KB - 721 downloads)

10 - Lower Metal Shroud Cut - Outside View.jpg (108KB - 743 downloads)

11 - Lower Metal Shroud Cut - Inside View.jpg (114KB - 708 downloads)

12 - Short and Long Metal Shroud - Cut.jpg (101KB - 711 downloads)

13 - Chrome Metal Shroud 170mm - Top View.jpg (133KB - 706 downloads)

Emblem on Ash Tray: As already shown earlier in this thread, I had fixed the small Knight Head (01) on the ash tray. It is the same as already on the steering wheel. Looking a little bit “lost”, I replaced it now by the more sophisticated emblem

used on the Glove Box of the 1959 Coronet (02-03). If nicer to put there an emblem, particulary this new one depends on each personal taste (04-05).

Anyway, as lover of emblems I like it. Another eye-catcher!   - SERGE -   :laugh: 

(01 Small Knight Head 25.jpg)

(02 1959 Glove Box Medaillon NOS 25.jpg)

(03 1959 Glove Box Medaillon NOS Solo 25.jpg)

(04 Ash Tray Solo 25.jpg)

(05 Ash Tray Front View 25.jpg)

01 Small Knight Head 25.jpg (63KB - 669 downloads)

02 1959 Glove Box Medaillon NOS 25.jpg (95KB - 644 downloads)

03 1959 Glove Box Medaillon NOS Solo 25.jpg (63KB - 650 downloads)

04 Ash Tray Solo 25.jpg (88KB - 655 downloads)

05 Ash Tray Front View 25.jpg (119KB - 662 downloads)

Bright Back Light: When replacing the bulbs by LEDs for backlight, there are various LED lamps available that fit to the socket 1156 BA (01). Here not shown all. The standard replacement LEDs shines more white then brighter. One solution for a brighter light is to use Super Bright LEDs, as the power dissipation and therefore the heating effect remains small. A next step brighter is to use instead of the 1156 BA single lamp the High Power 1157 BA dual Lamp (Turn Signal / Brake), when bridging the two connectors, and adapting one fixing pin to fit to the single contact socket (02). The difference between standard bulb and Power LED manifests in color and an impressive brightness (03).

Now, turning backwards at night, the street is sufficient illuminated, in respect to ground and in distance (04). – SERGE -

(01 Various LEDs BS1156 -25.jpg)

(02 Sockets BS1156 - BS1157 bridged -25 .jpg)

(03 Comparison Bulb - LED -25.jpg)

(04 Super Bright Back Light - 25.jpg)

01 Various LEDs BS1156 -25.jpg (47KB - 676 downloads)

02 Sockets BS1156 - BS1157 bridged -25 .jpg (68KB - 646 downloads)

03 Comparison Bulb - LED -25.jpg (73KB - 651 downloads)

04 Super Bright Back Light - 25.jpg (80KB - 651 downloads)

The Last Emblem: Many years ago I found a nice ForwardLook Emblem with a Dodge Script. Because I liked I purchased, even I had never seen this one on a 1959 Dodge. It got a nice place under the left Front Seat (01). Since then I was looking for a similar Emblem for the right side, but without the Dodge Script - a ForwardLook Emblem should never be mounted Backward.

Now I found what I was looking for a long time (02). It has got his reserved place, looking happily forward as his brother on the left side (03). Another hidden eye-catcher (04).

Was this the last emblem to be mounted on my 1959 Dodge Convertible?  - SERGE - 

(01 FWL Emblem LH -25.jpg)

(02 FWL Emblem Solo-25.jpg)

(03 Emblem RH -25.jpg)

(04 FWL Emblem View RH -25 .jpg)

01 FWL Emblem LH -25.jpg (128KB - 620 downloads)

02 FWL Emblem Solo-25.jpg (61KB - 636 downloads)

03 Emblem RH -25.jpg (118KB - 600 downloads)

04 FWL Emblem View RH -25 .jpg (118KB - 638 downloads)

Flashing LEDs: Brighter light on directional and rear lamps can be achieved when using LEDs of the new generation (01). They about 10% current consumption then standard bulbs. With this low current the common thermostatic operated flasher (02) will not work anymore. Load resistors of about 6 Ohm/20Watt (03) are offered to connect in parallel to each replaced bulb. To keep it low-cost, one resistor can be connected directly at the output of the flasher and will then be parallel to any LEDs in flashing mode. With the load resistor the additional “advantage” of a lower current consumption is lost, but it works.

Using an electronic controlled flasher (astable multivibrator) with relais (04), the flash frequency will be independent of the loading. It is defined by the time-constant, and can be modified by the value of a capacitor or resistor (05).

Simpler is to use an adjustable electronic flasher (06), The pin configuration enables to replace directly the standard flasher. It needs an additional lead to ground. Now the flashing frequency can be modified manually in a wide range by turning the axis of the potentiometer, and independent of load and voltage it remains stable.

The simplest and lowest cost solution at all is to keep all the bulbs connected, but outside the housing (in a thermo- protected and dimmed space), and insert the LED lamps in parallel. The total current will increase about 10% and as well the flashing frequency.

The result with Power LEDs is a Super Bright Rear Light, when flashing and at stop. With the camera the brightest red becomes yellow (07)!

To get a warmer and homogenous white light I covered the front LEDs with a Dessert Cap  (08), only possible because the LED doesn’t heat.

With parking LEDs ON, now the car can keep the battery charge up to one week, at super bright light!  - SERGE -  :laugh:

(01 Power LEDs Red-White Cree.jpg)

(02 Thermostatic Flasher.jpg)

(03 Load Resistors.jpg)

(04 Electronic Flasher.jpg)

(05 Printed Circuit Board.jpg)

(06 Adjustable Electronic Flasher.jpg)

(07 Super Bright Red Light.jpg)

(08 Dessert Cap.jpg)

(09 Damped LED Park Light.jpg)

01 Power LEDs Red-White Cree.jpg (74KB - 618 downloads)

02 Thermostatic Flasher.jpg (93KB - 596 downloads)

03 Load Resistors.jpg (76KB - 604 downloads)

04 Electronic Flasher.jpg (72KB - 595 downloads)

05 Printed Circuit Board.jpg (93KB - 581 downloads)

06 Adjustable Electronic Flasher.jpg (93KB - 621 downloads)

07 Super Bright Red Light.jpg (96KB - 612 downloads)

08 Dessert Cap.jpg (51KB - 603 downloads)

09 Damped LED Park Light.jpg (80KB - 587 downloads)

Dash Pad 1: When I got my Dodge, the dash pad was hard, dried and partly broken. There was no other way then to remove it (01). After cleaning the surface I used the same black vinyl to coat it as for the door panels (02). Applying on both sides enough Contact Glue, as for the arm rests (see earlier post), the coating got softer, could then be stretched and pulled around the edges. Fixed with masking tape I had to wait one week. The instruments metallic insert (03) then mounted over when black painted. The right side rounding was simulated by a coated metal (04).The result was impressive, as shown in 06 – 08. There was just one negative aspect: the surface was not padded and there were no ribbers.

Looking at the old brochure the ribbing is also missing (09), but I think this was a preliminary draft. The illustration in the parts book, the dash pad shows ribbes (10 black), as can be seen on cars with the original pad (11 blue, for Ron).

Today the Swedish company RD Autoline (Tony) reproduces this one and many other dash pads in a stunning originality and at high quality standard. What I saw in documentations is a high skilled artwork.

I ordered one for my 1959 Dodge Convertible and will later report the proceeding in mounting it, in: Dash Pad 2.  - SERGE -

(01 Remove Old Dash Board.jpg)

(02 Black Vinyl Coating.jpg)

(03 Instruments Metallic Insert.jpg)

(04 Vinyl Coated Dash Right Side.jpg)

(05 Vinyl Coated Dash Center.jpg)

(06 Vinyl Coated Dash Left Side.jpg)

(07 Vinyl Coated Dash Board Overview.jpg)

(08 Dash Pad Old Brochure.jpg)

(09 Dash Pad Partsbook Black.jpg)

(10 Dash Pad Partsbook Blue.jpg)

01 Remove Old Dash Board.jpg (91KB - 600 downloads)

02 Black Vinyl Coating.jpg (112KB - 616 downloads)

03 Instruments Metallic Insert.jpg (97KB - 578 downloads)

04 Vinyl Coated Dash Right Side.jpg (96KB - 616 downloads)

05 Vinyl Coated Dash Center.jpg (134KB - 622 downloads)

06 Vinyl Coated Dash Left Side.jpg (124KB - 576 downloads)

07 Vinyl Coated Dash Board Overview.jpg (112KB - 603 downloads)

08 Dash Pad Old Brochure.jpg (79KB - 581 downloads)

09 Dash Pad Partsbook Black.jpg (53KB - 600 downloads)

10 Dash Pad Partsbook Blue.jpg (93KB - 576 downloads)

Weak Hood Spring: When I got my Dodge, the hood had to be kept up with a wooden bar because of weakened springs. Thus I had first to reproduce stronger springs, and found a manufacturer. For an incredible price of CHF 80.00 he produced for me (1994), according the sample I sent him, 3 different pairs of springs, so I could test them on the car (01) and make the choice. What you see are the remaining 2 new pairs.

I kept the pair of spring that just hold up the hood and painted them in white as the car (02). Since then the hood is up as it should. - SERGE – 

(01 Old-New Repro Hood Spring.jpg)

(02 Mounted New Hood Spring.jpg)

01 Old-New Repro Hood Spring.jpg (132KB - 566 downloads)

02 Mounted New Hood Spring.jpg (77KB - 632 downloads)

Hi Serge

With a big interest I'm following your thred. You're like a Wizard here in Switzerland. Thank you very much for all your helpful hints. I'm sure I could use some of your hints for my Letter after it comes back from the body shop. I'm happy I could meet you at Zug on April 20th this year and we'll do the journey to the PBM together. Big hugs.

Till later, take care,

Dieter

Front Light Connections: All wires of the front lights lead to a Terminal Block located in front of the battery (01).

This Terminal Block has 5 connectors (1 – 5 from left to right). For a nicer appearance, it is fixed with polished stainless pan-head screws (M5), the connector bolts are covered with cap nuts, and the leading wires are hold in black (02).

The schematic diagram can be found in the Service Manual DODGE 59 Supplement, here a part restricted to the front lights (03). The connections on my car are originally slightly different then shown in the manual (04). They could not be interchanged because of the exact length of the wires.

There is a nice repro of the terminal connector available, at a reasonable price (05). The connections of the terminal block I added as well in PDF.  - SERGE -

(01 Terminal Location.jpg)

(02 Terminal Block.jpg)

(03 Front Light Schematic.jpg)

(04 Connections Terminal Block.jpg)

(05 Connector Repro.jpg)

01 Terminal Location.jpg (118KB - 743 downloads)

02 Terminal Block.jpg (118KB - 713 downloads)

03 Front Light Schematic.jpg (91KB - 685 downloads)

04 Connections Terminal Block.jpg (77KB - 691 downloads)

05 Connector Repro.jpg (101KB - 698 downloads)

06 Connections Terminal Block.pdf (6KB - 723 downloads)

Push Buttons: When restoring the Push Buttons a time ago, I had to remove the old paint in the letters. All chemical way where to aggressive, I used a soft diluent to be cleaned with water. But this plastic is so “weak”, that not only the paint was removed, but as well the front was badly affected. I had to grind it down and then use letter sticker (01), protected by a transparent foil (02).

Most Push Buttons are irreparably damaged by Finger Nails. It is very rare to find one with intact letters (03). Finally I found now a set in acceptable condition (04).

This time I didn’t use any chemistry at all (05), cleaned them with a soft brass brush (06), and got them all quite nice (07). The paint for the letters (red as used for the Instuments) I applied locally with a needle, removed instantly the color around with a rubber scraper, and when dried grinded the front (08). To fix and center the caps I put some tape around (white), inserted again a protective transparent foil, and for a soft return I added an O-Ring over the cap (09).

Now the Push Buttons look again as they should and are protected from Finger Nails: Clear letters and nice to look at.  - SERGE -   

(01 Push Buttons restored.jpg)

(02 Sticked Letters.jpg)

(03 Push Buttons Ross Roy.jpg)

(04 Used Push Button.jpg)

(05 Push Button Unrestored.jpg)

(06 Brush-up Push Buttons.jpg)

(07 Push Buttons AC brushed.jpg)

(08 Grinding Front Rounded.jpg)

(09 Push Button Assembly.jpg)

(10 Push Button Unit Mounted.jpg)

01 Push Buttons restored.jpg (104KB - 738 downloads)

02 Sticked Letters.jpg (80KB - 747 downloads)

03 Push Buttons Ross Roy.jpg (117KB - 702 downloads)

04 Used Push Button.jpg (113KB - 737 downloads)

05 Push Button Unrestored.jpg (60KB - 725 downloads)

06 Brush-up Push Buttons.jpg (80KB - 727 downloads)

07 Push Buttons AC brushed.jpg (58KB - 714 downloads)

08 Grinding Front Rounded.jpg (90KB - 717 downloads)

09 Push Button Assembly.jpg (77KB - 762 downloads)

10 Push Button Unit Mounted.jpg (115KB - 745 downloads)

Six-Way Seat Adjuster Switch: By a single bar of the switch, all six positions of the seat can be adjusted (01).

Forward -  Backward (5 inches)      Higher -  Lower (2 inches)      Tilt CW -  CCW (18 degrees) (02).

As the initial current of the seat adjustment is quite high, the contacts should be checked from time to time (03) (04).  The color of the wires must be correct, the switch is folded down for rear view (05).

Later I found another switch as spare part, mounted on a chrome bezel, as illustrated in the owners manual (06). This bezel should be on front side of the seat. To keep the nice golden emblem I put it reversed on the rear side - and it fits as it should be. The top view shows the mounting bracket and the power seat motor (07). The red main wire is connected after the circuit breaker located on the top lift switch, this as well the power windows. The chrome bezel is mounted with the two existing screws of the switch, thus easy to remove if one day dislike.

But for now, a bit more chrome on my Convertible! (08) – SERGE - 

(01 Six-Way Power Switch.jpg)

(02 Six-Way Seat Adjustments.jpg)

(03 Contact Elements.jpg)

(04 Power Switch Components.jpg)

(05 Connections Rear View.jpg)

(06 Six-Way Power Switch Owners Manual 25 .jpg)

(07 Top View with Power Seat Motor.jpg)

(08 Power Switch with Chrome Bezel.jpg)

01 Six-Way Power Switch.jpg (103KB - 711 downloads)

02 Six-Way Seat Adjustments.jpg (92KB - 749 downloads)

03 Contact Elements.jpg (67KB - 700 downloads)

04 Power Switch Components.jpg (82KB - 729 downloads)

05 Connections Rear View.jpg (102KB - 735 downloads)

06 Six-Way Power Switch Owners Manual 25 .jpg (121KB - 714 downloads)

07 Top View with Power Seat Motor.jpg (110KB - 733 downloads)

08 Power Switch with Chrome Bezel.jpg (116KB - 705 downloads)

Thank you very much Serge for this information. In my Letter I got a six way electric adjustable drivers seat as well. The switch looks different on a 1960 Mopar, but I assume the basic function is the same - one motor, three clutches.

Happy Motoring!

Dieter

Dome Lamp: With time the plastic lens goes brown and burns out in the center, due to excessive heat by the bulb. This is already observable in the original brochure of the 1959 Dodge Convertible, burned lens zoomed right down (01). As these lenses are highly demanded, reproductions are available up to USD 80 a pair (02). A single NOS Dome Lamp Lens Imperial with crown insigna is offered for USD155 (03).

To replace the lens, the fixing pins on the rear shell have to be bent out with the result that they mostly break off. Therefore break out one of the three pins for the lens can be removed, replace it by a soldered one, and grind a slot in the metal retainer. Now it can be fixed or removed anytime just by twisting (04).

To avoid a newly deformation of the replaced lens by heat a LED, no longer then 35mm, is advised in replacement of the bulb (05). This special bulb has two terminals, plus and minus, the socket is isolated, means not grounded. One pin is connected to plus, the other pin to minus when the door switch is activated. As I could not find such a LED I had to do some “surgical” interventions:

- Unsolder the two contacts and the four fixing points of the socket for removal (06).

- Socket removed (07).

As shown, one contact leads direct to the LED unit for a bright light, the other contact to the same point but over a resistor of 15 Ohm for a lower light. The ground (-) goes to the socket, as expected (07).

- Connect the resistor to minus (for lower light), and cut out the cupper of the printed circuit board in order to disconnect the ground (08).

- Resolder the socket on the LED unit as it was previously. The LED has become a direct replacement of the original bulb (09).

Now the dome lamp shows a brighter white light, without any burning of the plastic lens (10). - SERGE - 

P.S. Numbering of the pictures corrected.

(01 Brochure Dome Lamp.jpg)

(02 NOS Dome Lamp Lense.jpg)

(03 NOS Dome Lamp Lense Imperial.jpg)

(04 Twist Rear Shell for Removal.jpg)

(05 Comparison LED - Bulb.jpg)

(06 Socket Removal.jpg)

(07 Socket Removed.jpg)

(08 Resistor on Minus and Ground Cut.jpg)

(09 Modified LED Inserted.jpg)

(10 Bright White Dome Light.jpg)

01 Brochure Dome Lamp.jpg (132KB - 739 downloads)

02 NOS Dome Lamp Lense.jpg (81KB - 690 downloads)

03 NOS Dome Lamp Lense Imperial.jpg (137KB - 686 downloads)

04 Twist Rear Shell for Removal.jpg (61KB - 692 downloads)

05 Comparison LED - Bulb.jpg (66KB - 721 downloads)

06 Socket Removal.jpg (91KB - 738 downloads)

07 Socket Removed.jpg (50KB - 683 downloads)

08 Resistor on Minus and Ground Cut.jpg (60KB - 721 downloads)

09 Modified LED Inserted.jpg (81KB - 753 downloads)

10 Bright White Dome Light.jpg (114KB - 674 downloads)

Car Production Broadcast: My restored Car Production Broadcast I had already presented a time ago in the appropriate forum. In this thread here I just show HOW I did it, not must be the best way to go – but it works.

Scan the sheet with 1200dpi in precise vertical/horizontal orientation with Photoshop. It needs Win7 64-bit with at least 8MB RAM. The original scan is in the first layer named background (01). The layer 00 is a copy of the background in case of a disaster. . . . (01).

Create the next layers 01 – 06 for individual mastering, and freeze them from moving (02).

The layer 01 is the background pattern of the sheet, sample taken in a clean segment in layer 00. Remember, this background in not a uniform color, thus a pattern!

Next copy the selected items from layer 00 into the designated layers as shown in (02), ready there for clean and restore individually. If the result in a layer is not satisfactory, then just delete and re-copy it.

Examples of restored layers:

Layer 02: Original Text with Grid brown (03).

Layer 03: Original Typed Numbers black (04).

The typed numbers are not upgraded as they could be in order to keep their authentification. When all layers have been restored, merge all in one layer to stay fixed. This will be the final Car Production Broadcast Restored, saved here in a smaller resolution, as JPG-Picture (05), or 1 : 1 as PDF-File with 144dpi (because of the 250k limitation) (08).

The letters and the grid can as well be reproduced instead restored. Here the letters then are taken from the font library (Arial, Bold, Smooth, Color RGB: 207-113-46) and the lines are created by construction, all in Photoshop. In direct comparison to the original in the left, the difference is hardly visible (06). The Original Typed Numbers remains as before (04). Each single number can be selected, copied and inserted individually for another specific sheet (07).

Now, any missing Car Production Broadcast can be re-created by anyone. Happy printing!   - SERGE -

(01 Car Production Broadcast Scanned in.jpg)

(02 Layers Listing.jpg)

(03 Original Text with Grid.jpg)

(04 Original Typed Numbers black.jpg)

(05 Car Production Broadcast Restored.jpg)

(06 Comparison Original Text - New Font.jpg)

(07 Car Production Broadcast New Texted.jpg)

01 Car Production Broadcast Scanned in.jpg (123KB - 762 downloads)

02 Layers Listing.jpg (118KB - 689 downloads)

03 Original Text with Grid.jpg (119KB - 720 downloads)

04 Original Typed Numbers black.jpg (40KB - 689 downloads)

05 Car Production Broadcast Restored.jpg (132KB - 727 downloads)

06 Comparison Original Text - New Font.jpg (122KB - 706 downloads)

07 Car Production Broadcast New Texted.jpg (137KB - 720 downloads)

08 Car Production Broadcast Restored 144dpi.pdf (120KB - 746 downloads)

License Plate Lamp: For a brighter light the bulb can as well be replaced by a LED. The lamp unit is fixed with a bracket (01) (02). The heat of the bulb, consuming 5W, causes the lens to melt partially (03).

As replacement I used the same LED as for the dome lights. The contacts here are brigded for a full power (04). The fixing pins on the LED can be left as is. Just bent out the tab, on the concerned side of the lamp socket, for turning the LED in, view one side and the other side (05).

Now the license plate shines brighter at lower power consumption, and without melting the lens anymore (06). - SERGE - 

(01 Lamp Unit.jpg)

(02 Lamp Unit Rear View.jpg)

(03 Melted Lens.jpg)

(04 Bulb 5W - LED.jpg)

(05 Lamp Socket Bent.jpg)

(06 Bright License Plate.jpg)

01 Lamp Unit.jpg (72KB - 717 downloads)

02 Lamp Unit Rear View.jpg (84KB - 688 downloads)

03 Melted Lens.jpg (71KB - 725 downloads)

04 Bulb 5W - LED.jpg (88KB - 676 downloads)

05 Lamp Socket Bent.jpg (80KB - 678 downloads)

06 Bright License Plate.jpg (100KB - 677 downloads)

Hell! It looks wonderful. Thank you very much Serge.

Did you know, there are LED lamps available with a BA15d socket with to connection points?

Kind  regards,

Dieter

. . . Did you know, there are LED lamps available with a BA15d socket with to connection points? . . .

Yes Dieter, but I wanted the brightest light by using a "STOP"- LED that fits in the lamp unit. - SERGE -

Love this thread, Sermey;   beautiful work on a perfect restoration IMHO....    great idea with the low fuel warning and the thermoplastic work.  It would take me a lifetime to reach this standard of restoration...

There is a fuel pump relay which has a trigger from the distributor I believe.  It senses revs above cranking speed and only supplies power in this senario... upon stalling ( zero revs) power and thus fuel pump are inoperative..,.

Colin

Glove Box Compartment: A Crypton bulb type produces a whiter light but consumes some more power (01). As LED replacement I selected the long type (02). The diffusion of the light is circular, as needed for this application (03).

Just swap the devices? No, the socket of the bulb with integrated switch has reversed polarity (04). The (+) of the bulb will be grounded, at reversed voltage the LED cannot work.

In order to keep this socket as original, there was no other way then to interchange the LED connections, as already shown. De-solder the connection and the lamp socket can be removed, for it is just pushed on the plastic base (05). That’s why I had some problems to mount the LED, I turned the LED-Unit whereas the lamp socket didn’t.

Then reverse the polarity in the LED and extend the wire (06), push on the lamp socket, solder and glue it (07). Done.

As my built-in radio covers partly the illumination, I added a LED-Array (08) in parallel to the replacement LED. It is supplied by two wires, the red wire is soldered on a (+12V) pad in front of the unit, the blue wire (GRD) now on the lamp socket (09). Then again: Push on the lamp socket, solder and glue it (10).

Checking the set at reduced voltage (for picture), both lamps work together as one unit (11) and is ready for mount.

Backside the LED-Array there is an adhesive surface for easy fixing, here on bottom of the radio.

Except the side walls, I have covered the box inside with a black carpet inlay, a rest of my cars carpet (12).

Then the right edge of the glove box has become damaged in friction with the metal door arm (13). For protection I inserted a plastic profile as used to fix paper sheets (13). This edge now is protected from further stress with the door arm (14).

Finally, the glove box compartment shows an evenly spread illumination and the interior looks nice (15).   – SERGE -   :laugh:

(01 Glove Box Bulb.jpg)

(02 Bulb and replacement LEDs.jpg)

(03 Long LED ON.jpg)

(04 Lamp Socket with Switch.jpg)

(05 LED Socket removed.jpg)

(06 LED Polarity reversed.jpg)

(07 LED Socket pushed on - soldered - glued.jpg)

(08 LED Array 12V.jpg)

(09 Plus on LED Socket.jpg)

(10 Fixing the LED Socket.jpg)

(11 Checking the Set.jpg)

(12 Black Carpet Overlay.jpg)

(13 Right Box Edge Damaged.jpg)

(14 Plastic Profile.jpg)

(15 Exposed Edge Protected.jpg)

(16 Final Glove Box Compartment.jpg)

01 Glove Box Bulb.jpg (96KB - 688 downloads)

02 Bulb and replacement LEDs.jpg (69KB - 683 downloads)

03 Long LED ON.jpg (64KB - 700 downloads)

04 Lamp Socket with Switch.jpg (43KB - 706 downloads)

05 LED Socket removed.jpg (96KB - 673 downloads)

06 LED Polarity reversed.jpg (82KB - 698 downloads)

07 LED Socket pushed on - soldered - glued.jpg (88KB - 692 downloads)

08 LED Array 12V.jpg (81KB - 702 downloads)

09 Plus on LED Socket.jpg (82KB - 711 downloads)

10 Fixing the LED Socket.jpg (77KB - 678 downloads)

11 Checking the Set.jpg (64KB - 690 downloads)

12 Black Carpet Overlay.jpg (66KB - 672 downloads)

13 Right Box Edge Damaged.jpg (104KB - 676 downloads)

14 Plastic Profile.jpg (57KB - 731 downloads)

15 Exposed Edge Protected.jpg (94KB - 683 downloads)

16 Final Glove Box Compartment.jpg (93KB - 710 downloads)

Thank you for posting, Tom. It was a very hot day, therefore my car with top up - and some people topless!  - SERGE -

Cable for Set the Time: The time of the electric clock on the 59 DODGE is being set by a separate control knob mounted under the dashboard (01). The original time setting cable at 30cm length is too short for remove the instruments unit without disconnect it (02). Not only, the white vinyl shell has become stiff due to age and thus, any used replacement I purchased, was broken on the clockside end.

I found a replacement Scooter Speedometer Cable (04), with similar coupling to the clock (05). This new coupler including the core, original 3.2mm – new 3.0mm, could be used as is with small modifications (06). Just extend the gap and reduce the length as the sample (07).

This highly flexible metal shelI must be cut on both sides to the new length by grinding (08). When heating the connectors, the vinyl shell of the old cable can be removed easily on both sides (09)(10). As soldered the connection will never come out again: Tin first the junction surfaces of both parts (11). Then when heated push the shell into the connector, it just fits (12).

Because the old core couldn’t be removed from the control axis, the pressed part had to be grinded around. Deepen the so shortened hole of the control axis (3,2mm) by 8mm. The control axis and the new core are glued with a strong Cyanolit, always respecting the original working distances. Don't forget to insert the spring before! A fine tuning of the functionality can be done by heating the soldered connector and moving it, in order to extend or reduce the length up to 1mm, this on both sides of the control cable (13).

Now, the new remote cable for set the time is ready to mount, works as the original one, but is much longer, with a steel shell and again flexible (14).  – SERGE - 

(01 Clock Time Setting Knob.jpg)

(02 Original Time Setting Cable.jpg)

(03 Label Scooter Speedometer Cable.jpg)

(04 Connections Scooter Speedometer Cable.jpg)

(05 Clockside Coupler.jpg)

(06 Comparison Couplers Clockside.jpg)

(07 Modifying Gap and Length of new Coupler.jpg)

(08 Cutting both sides to the new Length.jpg)

(09 Remove the Vinyl Tube by Heating.jpg)

(10 Removed Broken Vinyl Tube.jpg)

(11 Tinned Connector ready for Solder.jpg)

(12 Soldered Connector.jpg)

(13 Assembled Time Setting Cable.jpg)

(14 Old and New Time Setting Cable.jpg)

01 Clock Time Setting Knob.jpg (118KB - 724 downloads)

02 Original Time Setting Cable.jpg (31KB - 695 downloads)

03 Label Scooter Speedometer Cable.jpg (114KB - 662 downloads)

04 Connections Scooter Speedometer Cable.jpg (43KB - 686 downloads)

05 Clockside Coupler.jpg (48KB - 701 downloads)

06 Comparison Couplers Clockside.jpg (77KB - 672 downloads)

07 Modifying Gap and Length of new Coupler.jpg (85KB - 712 downloads)

08 Cutting both sides to the new Length.jpg (70KB - 684 downloads)

09 Remove the Vinyl Tube by Heating.jpg (71KB - 659 downloads)

10 Removed Broken Vinyl Tube.jpg (58KB - 668 downloads)

11 Tinned Connector ready for Solder.jpg (56KB - 705 downloads)

12 Soldered Connector.jpg (55KB - 691 downloads)

13 Assembled Time Setting Cable.jpg (79KB - 666 downloads)

14 Old and New Time Setting Cable.jpg (55KB - 689 downloads)

Air-Deflector: The Air-Deflector under the dashboard distributes the incoming air from the center inlet to the left and right passenger side. It is made with a 1.5mm cardboard, therefore very sensitive to deformation, especially exposed when removing the radio. In my car this item was already badly damaged, and here out of function (01).

Fixed with three screws it can easy be removed. From this a flat template could be reconstructed (02), and then modeled in 3D-CAD (03, 04).

As material the backboard of a A4-scratchpad can be used, I found a thickness of 1.3mm that could simply be cut with a scissor (05). For a straight, edged ply use a bench vice, each side separate (05a). Painting in black to fit the surrounding and increasing the stiffness as well, after a distance check (100mm) the new Air-Deflector was ready to be mounted (06).

Now the incoming air is redirected, as it should - another small and simple restoration (07).  - SERGE - 

N.B. I didn’t removed the Air-Deflector when mounting back the Radio – first signs of “contacts” can already be seen!

The Template in PDF, A4, 1:1, ready for direct print-out, is added (08).

(01 Air-Deflector Damaged.jpg)

(02 Template Air Deflector Flat.jpg)

(03 Air Deflector FrontView CAD.jpg)

(04 Air Deflector SideView CAD.jpg)

(05 Cut and Bent.jpg)

(05a Plying the Cardboard.jpg)

(06 Painted and Verifying Distance.jpg)

(07 New Air-Deflector Mounted.jpg)

01 Air-Deflector Damaged.jpg (69KB - 630 downloads)

02 Template Air Deflector Flat.jpg (53KB - 647 downloads)

03 Air Deflector FrontView CAD.jpg (76KB - 632 downloads)

04 Air Deflector SideView CAD.jpg (113KB - 620 downloads)

05 Cut and Bent.jpg (94KB - 633 downloads)

05a Plying the Cardboard.jpg (83KB - 625 downloads)

06 Painted and Verifying Distance.jpg (94KB - 635 downloads)

07 New Air-Deflector Mounted.jpg (164KB - 632 downloads)

08 Template Air-Deflector A4-300dpi.pdf (78KB - 636 downloads)

 Speedometer 1: In the 1959 Dodge “the bar-type safety speedometer indicates green to 30 m.p.h., amber from 30 to 50 m.p.h., and red above 50 m.p.h.(Ross Roy)”. There are two different speedometer types, A and B. The second B has the additional option “speed warning signal” (01).

 Visually the two speedometers differ in various aspects as shown in direct comparison: Front Panel (02), Rear Panel (03), View Right Side (04), Different Covers (05) and Different Spring Systems (06).

Due to the additional mechanics of the speed warning system, the drums (axes) and the glasses are not the same. Important to know is that the speed scales and the color bars on the drum are identical for both types (07).  Pictures from my spare parts.

(will be continued)  - SERGE -

(01 Speed Warning Signal (Ross Roy).jpg)

(02 Front Panel.jpg)

(03 Rear Panel.jpg)

(04 View Right Side.jpg)

(05 Different Covers.jpg)

(06 Different Spring Systems.jpg)

(07 View Inside - Identical Color Bars.jpg)

01 Speed Warning Signal (Ross Roy).jpg (110KB - 616 downloads)

02 Front Panel.jpg (87KB - 647 downloads)

03 Rear Panel.jpg (69KB - 672 downloads)

04 View Right Side.jpg (82KB - 627 downloads)

05 Different Covers.jpg (76KB - 647 downloads)

06 Different Spring Systems.jpg (87KB - 614 downloads)

07 View Inside - Identical Color Bars.jpg (110KB - 663 downloads)

Speedometer 2: With age, humidity and light, the bar colors on the drum fade out and loose visibility – NOS replacement drums are very hard to find, when found it is mostly not the one you need (01).

Easiest is to apply a new speedometer decal (02), preferable in thin resistive plastic. As the drum endings may vary, the decal must be aligned to the right side, and if needed cut on the left side (03).

When the scale fits exactly to the original, no additional calibration is needed. Simply check with a BW Copy (04).

In a CAD simulation the steps are illustrated (05) (06) (07), and the final result shown in (08) (09).

A printable PDF-File is added , A4, 1 : 1, correct decal size 234.2 x 119mm (10). The colors may vary insignificantly depending of the used printer type.

Verify the printed colors with the original and correct if needed.

Now a new speedometer scale without disassembling and/or replacing the drum.  - SERGE - 

Notice: Many printer reduce the size marginally, even when set at 100%. My A4 "BROTHER" has to be set at 100.5% to get print-out the exact width of 234.2mm (to be verified!).

(01 NOS Auto-lite Drum.jpg)

(02 1959 Dodge Speedometer Decal..jpg)

(03 Drum Ends Comparison.jpg)

(04 Accuracy Check.jpg)

(05 Decal Ready CAD.jpg)

(06 Pre-Position Decal CAD.jpg)

(07 Final Position Check CAD.jpg)

(08 Applied Decal Front Side CAD.jpg)

(09 Applied Decal Rear Side CAD.jpg)

01 NOS Auto-lite Drum.jpg (125KB - 625 downloads)

02 1959 Dodge Speedometer Decal..jpg (105KB - 629 downloads)

03 Drum Ends Comparison.jpg (124KB - 658 downloads)

04 Accuracy Check.jpg (104KB - 629 downloads)

05 Decal Ready CAD.jpg (99KB - 628 downloads)

06 Pre-Position Decal CAD.jpg (98KB - 665 downloads)

07 Final Position Check CAD.jpg (101KB - 620 downloads)

08 Applied Decal Front Side CAD.jpg (67KB - 601 downloads)

09 Applied Decal Rear Side CAD.jpg (63KB - 627 downloads)

10 1959 Dodge Speedometer Decal A4.pdf (77KB - 624 downloads)

Speedometer 3: The speedometer bar should show zero when the car is not moving, then it is adjusted correctly.

When the green bar already shows an amount then the speedometer is mismatched as shown with the original drum (01), and similar with the new decal (02).

Not showing any green at all, there is probably an under setting (03). The fine adjustment is done by removing the right cover, and shifting carefully the spring system with a pointy tool (04).

For a secure and correct setting the initial green bar should preferably just be visible (05). Now the speedometer shows as it was the first day  - SERGE - 

(01 Original Speedometer - Mismatched.jpg)

(02 New Speedometer - Mismatched.jpg)

(03 New Speedometer - Zero Minus.jpg)

(04 Zero Adjustment.jpg)

(05 New Speedometer - Zero Correct Setting.jpg)

01 Original Speedometer - Mismatched.jpg (102KB - 614 downloads)

02 New Speedometer - Mismatched.jpg (99KB - 681 downloads)

03 New Speedometer - Zero Minus.jpg (98KB - 628 downloads)

04 Zero Adjustment.jpg (84KB - 626 downloads)

05 New Speedometer - Zero Correct Setting.jpg (98KB - 620 downloads)