|The Forward Look Network|
| "Make-Up" your Car!|
Jump to page : 1 2 3 4 5 6
Now viewing page 5 [50 messages per page]
|View previous thread :: View next thread|
|Forward Look Technical Discussions -> Body, Glass, Interior and Trim||Message format|
Location: ZH, Switzerland
With a big interest I'm following your thred. You're like a Wizard here in Switzerland. Thank you very much for all your helpful hints. I'm sure I could use some of your hints for my Letter after it comes back from the body shop. I'm happy I could meet you at Zug on April 20th this year and we'll do the journey to the PBM together. Big hugs.
Till later, take care,
Location: northern germany
hoodinki - 2015-04-08 12:13 PM
We all got that stick, I prefer the unscrewable wooden type on push brooms. I remember needing these, and a wheel chuck to keep in the trunk for parking on hills if you had a Powerflite, back in the 1970s for my Plymouth. Not really MBZ engineering going on back then. No wonder Plymouth is now Dead,.
wtf?! in 100 000s of miles driving my plymouth or other fls i never had the slightest problems with hood springs or the very efficient parking brakes. they lock the tires anytime and on the steepest hills. don't blame these fine cars for poor maintenance. these cars are build for the eternity IF properly serviced.
Front Light Connections: All wires of the front lights lead to a Terminal Block located in front of the battery (01).
This Terminal Block has 5 connectors (1 – 5 from left to right). For a nicer appearance, it is fixed with polished stainless pan-head screws (M5), the connector bolts are covered with cap nuts, and the leading wires are hold in black (02).
The schematic diagram can be found in the Service Manual DODGE 59 Supplement, here a part restricted to the front lights (03). The connections on my car are originally slightly different then shown in the manual (04). They could not be interchanged because of the exact length of the wires.
There is a nice repro of the terminal connector available, at a reasonable price (05). The connections of the terminal block I added as well in PDF. - SERGE -
(01 Terminal Location.jpg)
(02 Terminal Block.jpg)
(03 Front Light Schematic.jpg)
(04 Connections Terminal Block.jpg)
(05 Connector Repro.jpg)
01 Terminal Location.jpg (118KB - 318 downloads)
02 Terminal Block.jpg (118KB - 310 downloads)
03 Front Light Schematic.jpg (91KB - 288 downloads)
04 Connections Terminal Block.jpg (77KB - 289 downloads)
05 Connector Repro.jpg (101KB - 301 downloads)
06 Connections Terminal Block.pdf (6KB - 299 downloads)
Location: The Mile High City
|outstanding, Serge - I always enjoy reading this thread. Your attention to detail and inventiveness is remarkable.|
Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+
Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island
|Always interesting to read Serges posts - careful work to enhance the car|
Push Buttons: When restoring the Push Buttons a time ago, I had to remove the old paint in the letters. All chemical way where to aggressive, I used a soft diluent to be cleaned with water. But this plastic is so “weak”, that not only the paint was removed, but as well the front was badly affected. I had to grind it down and then use letter sticker (01), protected by a transparent foil (02).
Most Push Buttons are irreparably damaged by Finger Nails. It is very rare to find one with intact letters (03). Finally I found now a set in acceptable condition (04).
This time I didn’t use any chemistry at all (05), cleaned them with a soft brass brush (06), and got them all quite nice (07). The paint for the letters (red as used for the Instuments) I applied locally with a needle, removed instantly the color around with a rubber scraper, and when dried grinded the front (08). To fix and center the caps I put some tape around (white), inserted again a protective transparent foil, and for a soft return I added an O-Ring over the cap (09).
Now the Push Buttons look again as they should and are protected from Finger Nails: Clear letters and nice to look at. - SERGE -
Edited by sermey 2015-04-24 3:12 AM
(01 Push Buttons restored.jpg)
(02 Sticked Letters.jpg)
(03 Push Buttons Ross Roy.jpg)
(04 Used Push Button.jpg)
(05 Push Button Unrestored.jpg)
(06 Brush-up Push Buttons.jpg)
(07 Push Buttons AC brushed.jpg)
(08 Grinding Front Rounded.jpg)
(09 Push Button Assembly.jpg)
(10 Push Button Unit Mounted.jpg)
01 Push Buttons restored.jpg (104KB - 318 downloads)
02 Sticked Letters.jpg (80KB - 321 downloads)
03 Push Buttons Ross Roy.jpg (117KB - 292 downloads)
04 Used Push Button.jpg (113KB - 311 downloads)
05 Push Button Unrestored.jpg (60KB - 329 downloads)
06 Brush-up Push Buttons.jpg (80KB - 311 downloads)
07 Push Buttons AC brushed.jpg (58KB - 294 downloads)
08 Grinding Front Rounded.jpg (90KB - 307 downloads)
09 Push Button Assembly.jpg (77KB - 331 downloads)
10 Push Button Unit Mounted.jpg (115KB - 326 downloads)
Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+
Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island
|Lot of patience and love for the work at hand - those pushbuttons could'nt be any better.|
Six-Way Seat Adjuster Switch: By a single bar of the switch, all six positions of the seat can be adjusted (01).
Forward - Backward (5 inches) Higher - Lower (2 inches) Tilt CW - CCW (18 degrees) (02).
As the initial current of the seat adjustment is quite high, the contacts should be checked from time to time (03) (04). The color of the wires must be correct, the switch is folded down for rear view (05).
Later I found another switch as spare part, mounted on a chrome bezel, as illustrated in the owners manual (06). This bezel should be on front side of the seat. To keep the nice golden emblem I put it reversed on the rear side - and it fits as it should be. The top view shows the mounting bracket and the power seat motor (07). The red main wire is connected after the circuit breaker located on the top lift switch, this as well the power windows. The chrome bezel is mounted with the two existing screws of the switch, thus easy to remove if one day dislike.
But for now, a bit more chrome on my Convertible! (08) – SERGE -
Edited by sermey 2015-04-29 9:26 AM
(01 Six-Way Power Switch.jpg)
(02 Six-Way Seat Adjustments.jpg)
(03 Contact Elements.jpg)
(04 Power Switch Components.jpg)
(05 Connections Rear View.jpg)
(06 Six-Way Power Switch Owners Manual 25 .jpg)
(07 Top View with Power Seat Motor.jpg)
(08 Power Switch with Chrome Bezel.jpg)
01 Six-Way Power Switch.jpg (103KB - 287 downloads)
02 Six-Way Seat Adjustments.jpg (92KB - 333 downloads)
03 Contact Elements.jpg (67KB - 284 downloads)
04 Power Switch Components.jpg (82KB - 311 downloads)
05 Connections Rear View.jpg (102KB - 332 downloads)
06 Six-Way Power Switch Owners Manual 25 .jpg (121KB - 287 downloads)
07 Top View with Power Seat Motor.jpg (110KB - 318 downloads)
08 Power Switch with Chrome Bezel.jpg (116KB - 301 downloads)
Location: ZH, Switzerland
Thank you very much Serge for this information. In my Letter I got a six way electric adjustable drivers seat as well. The switch looks different on a 1960 Mopar, but I assume the basic function is the same - one motor, three clutches.
Location: Minor Hill, TN
|Thank You for the 411|
Dome Lamp: With time the plastic lens goes brown and burns out in the center, due to excessive heat by the bulb. This is already observable in the original brochure of the 1959 Dodge Convertible, burned lens zoomed right down (01). As these lenses are highly demanded, reproductions are available up to USD 80 a pair (02). A single NOS Dome Lamp Lens Imperial with crown insigna is offered for USD155 (03).
To replace the lens, the fixing pins on the rear shell have to be bent out with the result that they mostly break off. Therefore break out one of the three pins for the lens can be removed, replace it by a soldered one, and grind a slot in the metal retainer. Now it can be fixed or removed anytime just by twisting (04).
To avoid a newly deformation of the replaced lens by heat a LED, no longer then 35mm, is advised in replacement of the bulb (05). This special bulb has two terminals, plus and minus, the socket is isolated, means not grounded. One pin is connected to plus, the other pin to minus when the door switch is activated. As I could not find such a LED I had to do some “surgical” interventions:
- Unsolder the two contacts and the four fixing points of the socket for removal (06).
- Socket removed (07).
As shown, one contact leads direct to the LED unit for a bright light, the other contact to the same point but over a resistor of 15 Ohm for a lower light. The ground (-) goes to the socket, as expected (07).
- Connect the resistor to minus (for lower light), and cut out the cupper of the printed circuit board in order to disconnect the ground (08).
- Resolder the socket on the LED unit as it was previously. The LED has become a direct replacement of the original bulb (09).
Now the dome lamp shows a brighter white light, without any burning of the plastic lens (10). - SERGE -
P.S. Numbering of the pictures corrected.
Edited by sermey 2015-05-03 9:08 PM
(01 Brochure Dome Lamp.jpg)
(02 NOS Dome Lamp Lense.jpg)
(03 NOS Dome Lamp Lense Imperial.jpg)
(04 Twist Rear Shell for Removal.jpg)
(05 Comparison LED - Bulb.jpg)
(06 Socket Removal.jpg)
(07 Socket Removed.jpg)
(08 Resistor on Minus and Ground Cut.jpg)
(09 Modified LED Inserted.jpg)
(10 Bright White Dome Light.jpg)
01 Brochure Dome Lamp.jpg (132KB - 320 downloads)
02 NOS Dome Lamp Lense.jpg (81KB - 290 downloads)
03 NOS Dome Lamp Lense Imperial.jpg (137KB - 281 downloads)
04 Twist Rear Shell for Removal.jpg (61KB - 301 downloads)
05 Comparison LED - Bulb.jpg (66KB - 328 downloads)
06 Socket Removal.jpg (91KB - 336 downloads)
07 Socket Removed.jpg (50KB - 289 downloads)
08 Resistor on Minus and Ground Cut.jpg (60KB - 314 downloads)
09 Modified LED Inserted.jpg (81KB - 332 downloads)
10 Bright White Dome Light.jpg (114KB - 294 downloads)
Car Production Broadcast: My restored Car Production Broadcast I had already presented a time ago in the appropriate forum. In this thread here I just show HOW I did it, not must be the best way to go – but it works.
Scan the sheet with 1200dpi in precise vertical/horizontal orientation with Photoshop. It needs Win7 64-bit with at least 8MB RAM. The original scan is in the first layer named background (01). The layer 00 is a copy of the background in case of a disaster. . . . (01).
Create the next layers 01 – 06 for individual mastering, and freeze them from moving (02).
The layer 01 is the background pattern of the sheet, sample taken in a clean segment in layer 00. Remember, this background in not a uniform color, thus a pattern!
Next copy the selected items from layer 00 into the designated layers as shown in (02), ready there for clean and restore individually. If the result in a layer is not satisfactory, then just delete and re-copy it.
Examples of restored layers:
Layer 02: Original Text with Grid brown (03).
Layer 03: Original Typed Numbers black (04).
The typed numbers are not upgraded as they could be in order to keep their authentification. When all layers have been restored, merge all in one layer to stay fixed. This will be the final Car Production Broadcast Restored, saved here in a smaller resolution, as JPG-Picture (05), or 1 : 1 as PDF-File with 144dpi (because of the 250k limitation) (08).
The letters and the grid can as well be reproduced instead restored. Here the letters then are taken from the font library (Arial, Bold, Smooth, Color RGB: 207-113-46) and the lines are created by construction, all in Photoshop. In direct comparison to the original in the left, the difference is hardly visible (06). The Original Typed Numbers remains as before (04). Each single number can be selected, copied and inserted individually for another specific sheet (07).
Now, any missing Car Production Broadcast can be re-created by anyone. Happy printing! - SERGE -
(01 Car Production Broadcast Scanned in.jpg)
(02 Layers Listing.jpg)
(03 Original Text with Grid.jpg)
(04 Original Typed Numbers black.jpg)
(05 Car Production Broadcast Restored.jpg)
(06 Comparison Original Text - New Font.jpg)
(07 Car Production Broadcast New Texted.jpg)
01 Car Production Broadcast Scanned in.jpg (123KB - 352 downloads)
02 Layers Listing.jpg (118KB - 296 downloads)
03 Original Text with Grid.jpg (119KB - 320 downloads)
04 Original Typed Numbers black.jpg (40KB - 296 downloads)
05 Car Production Broadcast Restored.jpg (132KB - 336 downloads)
06 Comparison Original Text - New Font.jpg (122KB - 314 downloads)
07 Car Production Broadcast New Texted.jpg (137KB - 320 downloads)
08 Car Production Broadcast Restored 144dpi.pdf (120KB - 313 downloads)
Location: D-70199 Heslach
|Serge, It's great to "restore" all the history what comes with the car. Great work!|
Exner Expert 19,174 posts. Neil passed away 18 Sep 2015. You will be missed, Neil!
Location: bishop, ca
|PM sent (very-soon!) |
License Plate Lamp: For a brighter light the bulb can as well be replaced by a LED. The lamp unit is fixed with a bracket (01) (02). The heat of the bulb, consuming 5W, causes the lens to melt partially (03).
As replacement I used the same LED as for the dome lights. The contacts here are brigded for a full power (04). The fixing pins on the LED can be left as is. Just bent out the tab, on the concerned side of the lamp socket, for turning the LED in, view one side and the other side (05).
Now the license plate shines brighter at lower power consumption, and without melting the lens anymore (06). - SERGE -
Edited by sermey 2015-05-20 6:15 AM
(01 Lamp Unit.jpg)
(02 Lamp Unit Rear View.jpg)
(03 Melted Lens.jpg)
(04 Bulb 5W - LED.jpg)
(05 Lamp Socket Bent.jpg)
(06 Bright License Plate.jpg)
01 Lamp Unit.jpg (72KB - 314 downloads)
02 Lamp Unit Rear View.jpg (84KB - 283 downloads)
03 Melted Lens.jpg (71KB - 337 downloads)
04 Bulb 5W - LED.jpg (88KB - 290 downloads)
05 Lamp Socket Bent.jpg (80KB - 290 downloads)
06 Bright License Plate.jpg (100KB - 287 downloads)
Location: ZH, Switzerland
Hell! It looks wonderful. Thank you very much Serge.
Did you know, there are LED lamps available with a BA15d socket with to connection points?
Edited by di_ch_NY56 2015-05-20 6:08 AM
. . . Did you know, there are LED lamps available with a BA15d socket with to connection points? . . .
Yes Dieter, but I wanted the brightest light by using a "STOP"- LED that fits in the lamp unit. - SERGE -
Edited by sermey 2015-05-20 3:14 PM
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Love this thread, Sermey; beautiful work on a perfect restoration IMHO.... great idea with the low fuel warning and the thermoplastic work. It would take me a lifetime to reach this standard of restoration...
There is a fuel pump relay which has a trigger from the distributor I believe. It senses revs above cranking speed and only supplies power in this senario... upon stalling ( zero revs) power and thus fuel pump are inoperative..,.
|Some fuel pump relays get their power thru an oil pressure switch. So when the revs drop to zero and oil pressure also drops to zero the fuel pump power is shut off.|
Glove Box Compartment: A Crypton bulb type produces a whiter light but consumes some more power (01). As LED replacement I selected the long type (02). The diffusion of the light is circular, as needed for this application (03).
Just swap the devices? No, the socket of the bulb with integrated switch has reversed polarity (04). The (+) of the bulb will be grounded, at reversed voltage the LED cannot work.
In order to keep this socket as original, there was no other way then to interchange the LED connections, as already shown. De-solder the connection and the lamp socket can be removed, for it is just pushed on the plastic base (05). That’s why I had some problems to mount the LED, I turned the LED-Unit whereas the lamp socket didn’t.
Then reverse the polarity in the LED and extend the wire (06), push on the lamp socket, solder and glue it (07). Done.
As my built-in radio covers partly the illumination, I added a LED-Array (08) in parallel to the replacement LED. It is supplied by two wires, the red wire is soldered on a (+12V) pad in front of the unit, the blue wire (GRD) now on the lamp socket (09). Then again: Push on the lamp socket, solder and glue it (10).
Checking the set at reduced voltage (for picture), both lamps work together as one unit (11) and is ready for mount.
Backside the LED-Array there is an adhesive surface for easy fixing, here on bottom of the radio.
Except the side walls, I have covered the box inside with a black carpet inlay, a rest of my cars carpet (12).
Then the right edge of the glove box has become damaged in friction with the metal door arm (13). For protection I inserted a plastic profile as used to fix paper sheets (13). This edge now is protected from further stress with the door arm (14).
Finally, the glove box compartment shows an evenly spread illumination and the interior looks nice (15). – SERGE - :laugh:
(01 Glove Box Bulb.jpg)
(02 Bulb and replacement LEDs.jpg)
(03 Long LED ON.jpg)
(04 Lamp Socket with Switch.jpg)
(05 LED Socket removed.jpg)
(06 LED Polarity reversed.jpg)
(07 LED Socket pushed on - soldered - glued.jpg)
(08 LED Array 12V.jpg)
(09 Plus on LED Socket.jpg)
(10 Fixing the LED Socket.jpg)
(11 Checking the Set.jpg)
(12 Black Carpet Overlay.jpg)
(13 Right Box Edge Damaged.jpg)
(14 Plastic Profile.jpg)
(15 Exposed Edge Protected.jpg)
(16 Final Glove Box Compartment.jpg)
01 Glove Box Bulb.jpg (96KB - 305 downloads)
02 Bulb and replacement LEDs.jpg (69KB - 295 downloads)
03 Long LED ON.jpg (64KB - 313 downloads)
04 Lamp Socket with Switch.jpg (43KB - 309 downloads)
05 LED Socket removed.jpg (96KB - 282 downloads)
06 LED Polarity reversed.jpg (82KB - 301 downloads)
07 LED Socket pushed on - soldered - glued.jpg (88KB - 297 downloads)
08 LED Array 12V.jpg (81KB - 317 downloads)
09 Plus on LED Socket.jpg (82KB - 329 downloads)
10 Fixing the LED Socket.jpg (77KB - 300 downloads)
11 Checking the Set.jpg (64KB - 303 downloads)
12 Black Carpet Overlay.jpg (66KB - 288 downloads)
13 Right Box Edge Damaged.jpg (104KB - 284 downloads)
14 Plastic Profile.jpg (57KB - 332 downloads)
15 Exposed Edge Protected.jpg (94KB - 290 downloads)
16 Final Glove Box Compartment.jpg (93KB - 333 downloads)
|Speaking of LEDs, My turn signal lenses have darkened with time to the point where you can't even tell when the signals are on during the day. I did some checking and the #57 indicator bulbs put out about 3 candlepower. I found some replacement green LEDs that put out about 9 cp at www.superbrightleds.com . I put them in for the turn signal indicators and a red LED for the high beams and now I can see my indicator lights in daylight!!! |
Photos in my album http://www.forwardlook.net/forums/photos/photo-thumbnails.asp?album...
Location: D-70199 Heslach
your car was pictured by a friend
2015-Schweiz_Uster-041x.jpg (191KB - 271 downloads)
Thank you for posting, Tom. It was a very hot day, therefore my car with top up - and some people topless! - SERGE -
Cable for Set the Time: The time of the electric clock on the 59 DODGE is being set by a separate control knob mounted under the dashboard (01). The original time setting cable at 30cm length is too short for remove the instruments unit without disconnect it (02). Not only, the white vinyl shell has become stiff due to age and thus, any used replacement I purchased, was broken on the clockside end.
I found a replacement Scooter Speedometer Cable (04), with similar coupling to the clock (05). This new coupler including the core, original 3.2mm – new 3.0mm, could be used as is with small modifications (06). Just extend the gap and reduce the length as the sample (07).
This highly flexible metal shelI must be cut on both sides to the new length by grinding (08). When heating the connectors, the vinyl shell of the old cable can be removed easily on both sides (09)(10). As soldered the connection will never come out again: Tin first the junction surfaces of both parts (11). Then when heated push the shell into the connector, it just fits (12).
Because the old core couldn’t be removed from the control axis, the pressed part had to be grinded around. Deepen the so shortened hole of the control axis (3,2mm) by 8mm. The control axis and the new core are glued with a strong Cyanolit, always respecting the original working distances. Don't forget to insert the spring before! A fine tuning of the functionality can be done by heating the soldered connector and moving it, in order to extend or reduce the length up to 1mm, this on both sides of the control cable (13).
Now, the new remote cable for set the time is ready to mount, works as the original one, but is much longer, with a steel shell and again flexible (14). – SERGE -
Edited by sermey 2015-09-12 10:57 AM
(01 Clock Time Setting Knob.jpg)
(02 Original Time Setting Cable.jpg)
(03 Label Scooter Speedometer Cable.jpg)
(04 Connections Scooter Speedometer Cable.jpg)
(05 Clockside Coupler.jpg)
(06 Comparison Couplers Clockside.jpg)
(07 Modifying Gap and Length of new Coupler.jpg)
(08 Cutting both sides to the new Length.jpg)
(09 Remove the Vinyl Tube by Heating.jpg)
(10 Removed Broken Vinyl Tube.jpg)
(11 Tinned Connector ready for Solder.jpg)
(12 Soldered Connector.jpg)
(13 Assembled Time Setting Cable.jpg)
(14 Old and New Time Setting Cable.jpg)
01 Clock Time Setting Knob.jpg (118KB - 344 downloads)
02 Original Time Setting Cable.jpg (31KB - 307 downloads)
03 Label Scooter Speedometer Cable.jpg (114KB - 278 downloads)
04 Connections Scooter Speedometer Cable.jpg (43KB - 310 downloads)
05 Clockside Coupler.jpg (48KB - 319 downloads)
06 Comparison Couplers Clockside.jpg (77KB - 287 downloads)
07 Modifying Gap and Length of new Coupler.jpg (85KB - 330 downloads)
08 Cutting both sides to the new Length.jpg (70KB - 289 downloads)
09 Remove the Vinyl Tube by Heating.jpg (71KB - 278 downloads)
10 Removed Broken Vinyl Tube.jpg (58KB - 287 downloads)
11 Tinned Connector ready for Solder.jpg (56KB - 322 downloads)
12 Soldered Connector.jpg (55KB - 316 downloads)
13 Assembled Time Setting Cable.jpg (79KB - 278 downloads)
14 Old and New Time Setting Cable.jpg (55KB - 313 downloads)
Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+
Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island
|It's nice to see the final result as you informed me about that you worked on this project Serge! Another "sergerized" improvement, thanks' for sharing this smart solution!|
Location: D-70199 Heslach
Air-Deflector: The Air-Deflector under the dashboard distributes the incoming air from the center inlet to the left and right passenger side. It is made with a 1.5mm cardboard, therefore very sensitive to deformation, especially exposed when removing the radio. In my car this item was already badly damaged, and here out of function (01).
Fixed with three screws it can easy be removed. From this a flat template could be reconstructed (02), and then modeled in 3D-CAD (03, 04).
As material the backboard of a A4-scratchpad can be used, I found a thickness of 1.3mm that could simply be cut with a scissor (05). For a straight, edged ply use a bench vice, each side separate (05a). Painting in black to fit the surrounding and increasing the stiffness as well, after a distance check (100mm) the new Air-Deflector was ready to be mounted (06).
Now the incoming air is redirected, as it should - another small and simple restoration (07). - SERGE -
N.B. I didn’t removed the Air-Deflector when mounting back the Radio – first signs of “contacts” can already be seen!
The Template in PDF, A4, 1:1, ready for direct print-out, is added (08).
Edited by sermey 2016-02-19 10:14 PM
(01 Air-Deflector Damaged.jpg)
(02 Template Air Deflector Flat.jpg)
(03 Air Deflector FrontView CAD.jpg)
(04 Air Deflector SideView CAD.jpg)
(05 Cut and Bent.jpg)
(05a Plying the Cardboard.jpg)
(06 Painted and Verifying Distance.jpg)
(07 New Air-Deflector Mounted.jpg)
01 Air-Deflector Damaged.jpg (69KB - 252 downloads)
02 Template Air Deflector Flat.jpg (53KB - 253 downloads)
03 Air Deflector FrontView CAD.jpg (76KB - 254 downloads)
04 Air Deflector SideView CAD.jpg (113KB - 244 downloads)
05 Cut and Bent.jpg (94KB - 255 downloads)
05a Plying the Cardboard.jpg (83KB - 254 downloads)
06 Painted and Verifying Distance.jpg (94KB - 250 downloads)
07 New Air-Deflector Mounted.jpg (164KB - 253 downloads)
08 Template Air-Deflector A4-300dpi.pdf (78KB - 241 downloads)
Speedometer 1: In the 1959 Dodge “the bar-type safety speedometer indicates green to 30 m.p.h., amber from 30 to 50 m.p.h., and red above 50 m.p.h.(Ross Roy)”. There are two different speedometer types, A and B. The second B has the additional option “speed warning signal” (01).
Visually the two speedometers differ in various aspects as shown in direct comparison: Front Panel (02), Rear Panel (03), View Right Side (04), Different Covers (05) and Different Spring Systems (06).
Due to the additional mechanics of the speed warning system, the drums (axes) and the glasses are not the same. Important to know is that the speed scales and the color bars on the drum are identical for both types (07). Pictures from my spare parts.
(will be continued) - SERGE -
Edited by sermey 2016-02-23 5:54 PM
(01 Speed Warning Signal (Ross Roy).jpg)
(02 Front Panel.jpg)
(03 Rear Panel.jpg)
(04 View Right Side.jpg)
(05 Different Covers.jpg)
(06 Different Spring Systems.jpg)
(07 View Inside - Identical Color Bars.jpg)
01 Speed Warning Signal (Ross Roy).jpg (110KB - 239 downloads)
02 Front Panel.jpg (87KB - 272 downloads)
03 Rear Panel.jpg (69KB - 289 downloads)
04 View Right Side.jpg (82KB - 246 downloads)
05 Different Covers.jpg (76KB - 254 downloads)
06 Different Spring Systems.jpg (87KB - 244 downloads)
07 View Inside - Identical Color Bars.jpg (110KB - 282 downloads)
Speedometer 2: With age, humidity and light, the bar colors on the drum fade out and loose visibility – NOS replacement drums are very hard to find, when found it is mostly not the one you need (01).
Easiest is to apply a new speedometer decal (02), preferable in thin resistive plastic. As the drum endings may vary, the decal must be aligned to the right side, and if needed cut on the left side (03).
When the scale fits exactly to the original, no additional calibration is needed. Simply check with a BW Copy (04).
In a CAD simulation the steps are illustrated (05) (06) (07), and the final result shown in (08) (09).
A printable PDF-File is added , A4, 1 : 1, correct decal size 234.2 x 119mm (10). The colors may vary insignificantly depending of the used printer type.
Verify the printed colors with the original and correct if needed.
Now a new speedometer scale without disassembling and/or replacing the drum. - SERGE -
Notice: Many printer reduce the size marginally, even when set at 100%. My A4 "BROTHER" has to be set at 100.5% to get print-out the exact width of 234.2mm (to be verified!).
Edited by sermey 2016-02-26 8:54 PM
(01 NOS Auto-lite Drum.jpg)
(02 1959 Dodge Speedometer Decal..jpg)
(03 Drum Ends Comparison.jpg)
(04 Accuracy Check.jpg)
(05 Decal Ready CAD.jpg)
(06 Pre-Position Decal CAD.jpg)
(07 Final Position Check CAD.jpg)
(08 Applied Decal Front Side CAD.jpg)
(09 Applied Decal Rear Side CAD.jpg)
01 NOS Auto-lite Drum.jpg (125KB - 247 downloads)
02 1959 Dodge Speedometer Decal..jpg (105KB - 243 downloads)
03 Drum Ends Comparison.jpg (124KB - 274 downloads)
04 Accuracy Check.jpg (104KB - 249 downloads)
05 Decal Ready CAD.jpg (99KB - 244 downloads)
06 Pre-Position Decal CAD.jpg (98KB - 280 downloads)
07 Final Position Check CAD.jpg (101KB - 243 downloads)
08 Applied Decal Front Side CAD.jpg (67KB - 240 downloads)
09 Applied Decal Rear Side CAD.jpg (63KB - 245 downloads)
10 1959 Dodge Speedometer Decal A4.pdf (77KB - 211 downloads)
Speedometer 3: The speedometer bar should show zero when the car is not moving, then it is adjusted correctly.
When the green bar already shows an amount then the speedometer is mismatched as shown with the original drum (01), and similar with the new decal (02).
Not showing any green at all, there is probably an under setting (03). The fine adjustment is done by removing the right cover, and shifting carefully the spring system with a pointy tool (04).
For a secure and correct setting the initial green bar should preferably just be visible (05). Now the speedometer shows as it was the first day - SERGE -
Edited by sermey 2016-02-27 10:28 AM
(01 Original Speedometer - Mismatched.jpg)
(02 New Speedometer - Mismatched.jpg)
(03 New Speedometer - Zero Minus.jpg)
(04 Zero Adjustment.jpg)
(05 New Speedometer - Zero Correct Setting.jpg)
01 Original Speedometer - Mismatched.jpg (102KB - 244 downloads)
02 New Speedometer - Mismatched.jpg (99KB - 283 downloads)
03 New Speedometer - Zero Minus.jpg (98KB - 249 downloads)
04 Zero Adjustment.jpg (84KB - 246 downloads)
05 New Speedometer - Zero Correct Setting.jpg (98KB - 243 downloads)
Location: Montreal, Canada
Thanks for the PDF. Great work as usual.
Location: The Mile High City
|Amazing and so detailed! Great work, Serge!|
MOPAR Radio 856-857 with Audio Input: Even if the old Mopar Radio works perfectly, today this device is going to make no sense when the radio stations disappear, except as an eye-catcher in the car. There are high-tech conversions offered for FM-reception. These people do a nice job, as the radio keeps its full mechanical functionality.
Meanwhile the DAB - Technology (Digital Audio Broadcast) is on the way and will soon replace the analog broadcasting systems (ABS), so as these modifications one day will become as well obsolete. To give the radio a “voice”, regardless of the source, an Audio Input is suggested.
The original loudspeaker had already been replaced by a high power, wide-band type (01). The big high efficient magnet was grinded for just not touch the housing of the radio (02). It was obvious to have this loudspeaker driven by a power amplifier for lower impedance, and producing a higher output than the radio.
I found a suitable Power Amplifier, direct operating up to 16VDC (03), with a cinch audio connection (04), that could be used for an Audio Input.
From the cleaned schematic of the Mopar Radio 856,857 (05), here the resized section of the volume control unit (06).
The Audio Input is done by “injecting” the sound source from earphone output of an external device (portable Radio, Cassette or CD-Player, SmartPhone), directly to the high end of the volume control A in red (07). This way the volume and the tone control of the radio is still remaining active, and the receiver operate as well. As the radio has a high impedance circuit, the audio input is decoupled by a serial resistor, minimum value 120k. The higher the value, the higher will be the attenuation of the applied input signal, but as well the lower the loading of the radio circuit. This adjustable Audio Input signal comes directly from the trimmer in the PowerAmp.
The output B shown in green, comes from the tapper of the Volume Control, and leads with another 120k directly to the input of the PowerAmp.
Means the inner connection of the input trimmer to the PowerCircuit has been previously cut.
Note: To avoid possible hum, the two resistors 120k have to be soldered directly to the the volume control in the radio. These two wires, leading to the PowerAmp-In, are separately shielded. The 12V supply comes switched from the Radio, ground from the VC.
The PowerAmp Unit has become a satellite of the radio (08). It is fixed inside the air deflector for direct access to the cinch input connector, and for easy adjustment of the audio sensitivity by the pre-set trimmer (09).While listening from audio input, the receiver is set to the end of the scale for no reception at all. Removing this system? Just cut all external cables and the radio will remain as it was before! But not forget to switch over the loudspeaker.
Now the original car radio, together with the new built-in loudspeaker and a HiFi source, sounds even better as in the good old times. - SERGE -
N.B. Separate the schematics in PDF.
Edited by sermey 2016-03-18 10:16 AM
(01 MOPAR Radio 856-857.jpg)
(02 Grinded Loudspeaker Magnet.jpg)
(03 KEMO Amplifier 12W M032S 25.jpg)
(04 PowerAmp Unit.jpg)
(05 Schematic Radio Mopar 856-857.jpg)
(06 Schematic Resized Section VC Unit.jpg)
(07 Section VC with Audio Input A-Output B.jpg)
(08 MOPAR Radio with PowerAmp Unit.jpg)
(09 View Mounted PowerAmp.jpg)
01 MOPAR Radio 856-857.jpg (82KB - 244 downloads)
02 Grinded Loudspeaker Magnet.jpg (90KB - 240 downloads)
03 KEMO Amplifier 12W M032S 25.jpg (74KB - 246 downloads)
04 PowerAmp Unit.jpg (79KB - 261 downloads)
05 Schematic Radio Mopar 856-857.jpg (114KB - 278 downloads)
06 Schematic Resized Section VC Unit.jpg (72KB - 246 downloads)
07 Section VC with Audio Input A-Output B.jpg (87KB - 245 downloads)
08 MOPAR Radio with PowerAmp Unit.jpg (112KB - 301 downloads)
09 View Mounted PowerAmp.jpg (90KB - 251 downloads)
Schematic Radio Mopar 856-857.pdf (197KB - 212 downloads)
Schematic Radio Mopar Section Volume Control.pdf (103KB - 224 downloads)
Schematic Radio Mopar VC Input A-Output B.pdf (107KB - 214 downloads)
Horn Ring Pad 1: Years ago I purchased at the Big Meet in Vaesteras a NOS Steering Horn Ring without Pad (01). Back then I didn’t know that there are two different horn rings. The other one with pad and small golden knight (02) have been available in pad colors correspondingly to the car interior (03) (04) (05).
These pads deforms and shrinks with time and are extreme rarely to find. From the used horn ring I purchased once, I could just use the small golden knight, temporarily mounted on the ashtray of my convertible.
Recently I found a never used, NOS Horn Ring with green pad (06). All was perfect, except the pad was shrinked till 10mm at the end (07), partially deformed, the foam mostly rotted, and the metal insert widely detached due to long storage (08). The pad metal inserts, usually rusty and broken, could be cleaned (09) and inserted on the horn ring (10). By removed pad (11), the fixing gaps in the ring becomes visible (12).
In case of needed replacement I have modeled this part on CAD (13). By laser cutting the stainless sheetmetall (0.5mm) according the flat metal insert (14), and then bending it around an axis 5 – 6 mm, this item can easily be reproduced (15). By one mirror command on CAD, the opposite sheet metal is done as well (16). Attached a printable PFD-File 1:1.
The reproduction of this horn pad is firmly dedicated to the Swedish company RD Autoline (Tony), for they use the correct material as for Dash Pads, they know how to process quality foam, and fulfill a high technical standard. This here may be a contribution for a “start-up” . . . . . . - SERGE - :)
(to be continued)
(01 NOS Steering Horn Ring without Pad.jpg)
(02 Horn Ring with Black Pad.jpg)
(03 Horn Ring with Blue Pad.jpg)
(04 Horn Ring with Green Pad.jpg)
(05 Horn Ring with Red Pad.jpg)
(06 NOS Horn Ring with Pad.jpg)
(07 Shrinked Horn Pad.jpg)
(08 Deformed Pad Front & Rear View.jpg)
(09 Cleaned Horn Pad Metal Inserts.jpg)
(10 Pad Metal inserted on Horn Ring.jpg)
(11 Horn Ring Pad Removed.jpg)
(12 Horn Ring Rear View.jpg)
(13 Single Horn Pad Metal Insert CAD.jpg)
(14 Flat Horn Pad Metal Insert CAD.jpg)
(15 Flattened Metal Insert CAD.jpg)
(16 Dual Horn Pad Metal Insert CAD.jpg)
01 NOS Steering Horn Ring without Pad.jpg (82KB - 245 downloads)
02 Horn Ring with Black Pad.jpg (64KB - 243 downloads)
03 Horn Ring with Blue Pad.jpg (72KB - 243 downloads)
04 Horn Ring with Green Pad.jpg (65KB - 242 downloads)
05 Horn Ring with Red Pad.jpg (71KB - 243 downloads)
06 NOS Horn Ring with Pad.jpg (73KB - 266 downloads)
07 Shrinked Horn Pad.jpg (55KB - 240 downloads)
08 Deformed Pad Front & Rear View.jpg (79KB - 245 downloads)
09 Cleaned Horn Pad Metal Inserts.jpg (51KB - 235 downloads)
10 Pad Metal inserted on Horn Ring.jpg (73KB - 267 downloads)
11 Horn Ring Pad Removed.jpg (73KB - 246 downloads)
12 Horn Ring Rear View.jpg (59KB - 275 downloads)
13 Single Horn Pad Metal Insert CAD.jpg (42KB - 233 downloads)
14 Flat Horn Pad Metal Insert CAD.jpg (46KB - 251 downloads)
15 Flattened Metal Insert CAD.jpg (53KB - 277 downloads)
16 Dual Horn Pad Metal Insert CAD.jpg (51KB - 248 downloads)
Flat Horn Pad Metal Insert.pdf (103KB - 245 downloads)
Remote Trunk Release 1: As there is no other way to open the trunk lid with a key, I let it mostly in the lock (01), sometimes even forget to remove it when driving.
A remote trunk release would solve this situation.
Many years ago I purchased a kit for an electric trunk release but could’nt find out a satisfying installation, for the lock is in the trunk lid.
Animated by Jans (imopar380) clever solution, presented in this board . . .
. . . I restarted this project involving this principle in a way that should be easy to reproduce.
For the latch I used a flat aluminium profile 15mm x 2mm, first in CAD (02), then real in (03).
A 8 x 0.85mm spring just fit in the lock housing: Bend one end and stretch the other side as shown (04).
The axle is a M5 screw, the thread direct cut in the housing. Its drill position is adapted from the latch, so as nothing affect the key turn at all. The short slot assures additional track.
By adding two washers as support under the latch, the M5 screw, all parts are ready for assembling (05):
Insert the return spring in the 3mm hole, then turn it around out to be fixed. By turning out, the windings can be reduced for a higher return force (06). The other side just link in to the latch (07). Mount the M5 with the support washers and fix it with Loctite so as the latch can be moved easily.
When activated, the stretched return spring becomes visible (08). The outer end will be cut when the activator is installed and tested (will be followed).
Now the trunk lock unit is ready for remote activation (09). - SERGE - :) :)
Edited by sermey 2016-05-03 11:28 PM
(01 Trunk Lid with Lock Key.jpg)
(02 Release Latch CAD.jpg)
(03 Release Latch Alu-Profile.jpg)
(04 Return Spring for Latch.jpg)
(05 Parts Ready for Assembling.jpg)
(06 Return Spring Inserted.jpg)
(07 Return Spring Mounted.jpg)
(08 Stretched Return Spring.jpg)
(09 Trunk Lock Ready for Remote.jpg)
01 Trunk Lid with Lock Key.jpg (84KB - 274 downloads)
02 Release Latch CAD.jpg (56KB - 265 downloads)
03 Release Latch Alu-Profile.jpg (45KB - 267 downloads)
04 Return Spring for Latch.jpg (51KB - 266 downloads)
05 Parts Ready for Assembling.jpg (65KB - 261 downloads)
06 Return Spring Inserted.jpg (75KB - 266 downloads)
07 Return Spring Mounted.jpg (81KB - 255 downloads)
08 Stretched Return Spring.jpg (70KB - 257 downloads)
09 Trunk Lock Ready for Remote.jpg (53KB - 266 downloads)
Remote Trunk Release 2 (mechanically): A mechanical trunk release can be activated at any time, as there is no need of a battery. The 1959 Dodge didn’t offered this option. Therefore it should be realized mostly invisible.
It needs a release handle with return spring, for my car preferably in black, as found (01). Then a long control cable, as used for bikes (02). Tree of them (175cm) joined together using an alu-tube (5 x 4mm) glued with Cyanolit, over all a shrinking tube (03). The original core is replaced by a thinner, Nylon covered multistrand stainless wire, as already used for the remote mirror (04), for minimum return friction. If the wire cannot easy be pushed in through the length of 450cm, the friction is too high for the return spring mounted in the trunk lock.
The wire ends are attached by a node, for the tensile force can reach up to 20kp. The front connection as illustrated in (05), and the rear connection by a crimped cable lug (06).
The control cable starts from the release handle, fixed on the left side under the dashboard (07), leads under the sill plate (08) to the left hinge of the trunk lid (09). Here it is guided by a fixed rubber hose (10) for free movement. Then from inside the lid it ends through the lamp cavity to the trunk lock. The final length is adjusted by fixing the control cable with a latch, made with the same profile as used for the activation arm (11). For a horizontal position of this arm, preferably for the electric version (to come), the finger has been mirrored (12).
Now the trunk can be manually opened as most actual cars, soft, comfortable and discreet (13). - SERGE - ;)
Edited by sermey 2016-06-12 3:08 AM
(01 Release Handle.jpg)
(02 Bike Shift Cable 175cm.jpg)
(03 Joined Cable.jpg)
(04 Coated Multi Strand Stainless Wire.jpg)
(05 Connection to Release Handle.jpg)
(06 Connection to Trunk Lock.jpg)
(07 Handle under the Dashboard.jpg)
(08 Cable under the Sill Plate.jpg)
(09 Left Hinge of the Trunk Lid.jpg)
(10 Guide Rubber Hose.jpg)
(11 Fixing the Operation Length.jpg)
(12 Activation Arm Mirrored.jpg)
(13 Overview Lock Assembly.jpg)
01 Release Handle.jpg (64KB - 210 downloads)
02 Bike Shift Cable 175cm.jpg (66KB - 204 downloads)
03 Joined Cable.jpg (72KB - 214 downloads)
04 Coated Multi Strand Stainless Wire.jpg (68KB - 189 downloads)
05 Connection to Release Handle.jpg (59KB - 193 downloads)
06 Connection to Trunk Lock.jpg (52KB - 204 downloads)
07 Handle under the Dashboard.jpg (105KB - 207 downloads)
08 Cable under the Sill Plate.jpg (74KB - 198 downloads)
09 Left Hinge of the Trunk Lid.jpg (85KB - 202 downloads)
10 Guide Rubber Hose.jpg (65KB - 203 downloads)
11 Fixing the Operation Length.jpg (88KB - 194 downloads)
12 Activation Arm Mirrored.jpg (39KB - 210 downloads)
13 Overview Lock Assembly.jpg (82KB - 210 downloads)
Passenger Seat Molding: Recently I found themissing molding for the passenger seat, shown as offered (01).
After cleaning, the black paint was applied, when pre-dried removed on the surface (02), as I did earlier with other items.
The seat adjuster switch was mounted with a bracket, I got from Jan Fridberg with all the Power Seat Unit, years ago. This bracket fits exactly to the sloped seat frame, keeping the switch horizontal – as usual a nice job he did here! (03)
For lack of another bracket an easy way to fix the passenger seat molding was needed. I used two bolts (M5) at fitted length. The one drilled on the correct position, for the other needing a standard bracket (04). This as well for the driver side in order to keep both moldings at the same distance. (05). The final position is given by the edge of the seat frame (06), furthermore both moldings should be parallel to the sill plate (07).
Now these bezels protect the fragile plastic edge from being broken by careless rear passengers. Additional they express an optical upgrade (08).
I have read that the 1959 Dodge is the car with most chrome at that time. From now I am near to believe it! - SERGE - :laugh:
Edited by sermey 2016-12-21 9:58 AM
(01 Original As Offered.jpg)
(02 Black Painted.jpg)
(03 Mounting Bracket.jpg)
(04 Mounting Bolts.jpg)
(06 Chrome Bezel Mounted.jpg)
(07 Switch Bezel.jpg)
(08 Passenger Seat Side View.jpg)
01 Original As Offered.jpg (70KB - 134 downloads)
02 Black Painted.jpg (80KB - 137 downloads)
03 Mounting Bracket.jpg (41KB - 128 downloads)
04 Mounting Bolts.jpg (100KB - 124 downloads)
05 Comparison.jpg (94KB - 130 downloads)
06 Chrome Bezel Mounted.jpg (111KB - 131 downloads)
07 Switch Bezel.jpg (87KB - 132 downloads)
08 Passenger Seat Side View.jpg (102KB - 132 downloads)
Location: Lower Mainland BC
|Just found this thread. Not sure if I should cheer or cry. The attention to detail is incredible. I will never be able achieve that on my car. But at least I have a (high) standard to strive for. |
(56D500boy) Just found this thread . . . .
Thank you Dave for your kind comment. Doing things mostly at best, then everyone will get better results. But never think "I will never be able achieve . . ", then you stop yourself. All are better then they believe to be!
What I show in this thread, not must be the best way to do, but it is HOW I did it . . . and it works. - SERGE -
Dash Pad 2: In the meantime I got the new dash pad from RD Autoline Sweden. It arrived in a very safe and solid packaging, well wrapped with soft protection air foil (01). First I put it on the hood, to make an initial acquaintance to the car ( ) to be equipped (02). A short look at the materials surface: impeccable (03).
All adjacent items around the dash have been removed: instruments unit, push buttons unit, rear view mirror, speaker insert and all the retaining moldings. As I didn’t removed the lower front panels (right-hand under the pad), the extension of the pad along this line was fold and stuck, and the other borders cut according the geometrical conditions (04).
The new dash pad now could be pushed on, fully to its final position (05). No preliminary apertures or holes have been made until now, and no glue was used, as the dash pad fitted like a glove.
To start fix the lower retainer moldings (06), final assemble the lamp with LED and lense (07). Then the right side molding (08), and on the left side the Push Buttons Unit (09).
Now the dash pad is fixed cannot be moved forward anymore. The further proceeding will be reported in Dash Pad 3 to come. - SERGE -
Edited by sermey 2016-12-23 8:25 AM
(01 Dash Pad Packaging 25.jpg)
(02 Dash Pad on Hood 25.jpg)
(03 Homogenous Material 25.jpg)
(04 Borders Modifications 25.jpg)
(05 Dash Pad pushed on 25.jpg)
(06 Lower Moldings Mounted 25.jpg)
(07 Lamp with LED 25.jpg)
(08 Right Side Molding 25.jpg)
(09 Push Buttons Unit on Left Side 25.jpg)
01 Dash Pad Packaging 25.jpg (78KB - 101 downloads)
02 Dash Pad on Hood 25.jpg (71KB - 94 downloads)
03 Homogenous Material 25.jpg (108KB - 101 downloads)
04 Borders Modifications 25.jpg (68KB - 96 downloads)
05 Dash Pad pushed on 25.jpg (84KB - 93 downloads)
06 Lower Moldings Mounted 25.jpg (90KB - 97 downloads)
07 Lamp with LED 25.jpg (91KB - 93 downloads)
08 Right Side Molding 25.jpg (72KB - 100 downloads)
09 Push Buttons Unit on Left Side 25.jpg (87KB - 97 downloads)
Brake Switch: The brake pedal has to be depressed somewhat to activate the brake lights. In to-days car a small “touch” is sufficient.
There are many interesting threads showing how to encounter this behavior by mounting a mechanical switch, in replacing the one on the master cylinder, solutions done in various and superior ways. Here I show a similar, but simpler way for the same target:
I used an industrial switch with wheel (01), then added a distance bolt M5 x 40mm so as the switch assembly was ready for mount (02). Then drilled a hole at the right place, one screw and the switch was mounted (03).
On the master cylinder I left all as it is, but added in parallel the supplemental cables (04).
Now a small tip on the brake pedal, and the rear driver is alerted in better time. - SERGE -
Edited by sermey 2017-02-21 9:46 AM
(01 Switch with Wheel.jpg)
(02 New Switch Ready for Mount.jpg)
(03 New Brake Switch Mounted.jpg)
(04 Brake Switch of Master Cylinder.jpg)
01 Switch with Wheel.jpg (56KB - 97 downloads)
02 New Switch Ready for Mount.jpg (63KB - 89 downloads)
03 New Brake Switch Mounted.jpg (101KB - 97 downloads)
04 Brake Switch of Master Cylinder.jpg (91KB - 93 downloads)
Dash Pad 3: Now the items on the dash pad can be mounted and will hold it down, not any glue at all.
The speaker cover includes the mounted loudspeaker and the ventilator hoses, to be assembled before fixing (01). The cover is used to create the template for cutting the aperture, then centered and fixed with nails (02). As the borders to the cover are narrow, a high cutting precision is required (03). For easy access inside the dash board this unit will be mounted later.
To fix the interior rear view mirror, here the MirrorMatic, there are solid items disposable, and a special tool is needed (04). The stand is already designed to fit the thickness of the pad, so as it can be tighten strongly (06). Then the dash board is slightly pressed down, as it should be (07). The high flexible cable of the MirrorMatic, leaded through the stand, will be unvisible (08).
Other for fix the Socket of the Automatic Beamer. Now it need longer screws, and to avoid squeezing the board additional distances (09). For fine tuning the direction of the sensor lens, I used finally wing nuts (10).
Not forget to mount the front panel chrome bar. Instead of rusty clips as well stainless screws (11).
The further proceeding will be reported in Dash Pad 4 to come. - SERGE - :)
(01 Speaker Cover Black painted.jpg)
(02 Speaker Cover Template Fixed.jpg)
(03 Speaker Cover Dash Board Cut.jpg)
(04 Mirror Mounting items.jpg)
(05 Mirror Socket & Hole.jpg)
(06 Mirror Socket Mounted.jpg)
(07 Mirror Cable Outlet.jpg)
(08 Automatic Beamer Mounting Items.jpg)
(09 Automatic Beamer Socket Mounted.jpg)
(10 Front Panel Chrome Bar.jpg)
01 Speaker Cover Black painted.jpg (71KB - 95 downloads)
02 Speaker Cover Template Fixed.jpg (79KB - 86 downloads)
03 Speaker Cover Dash Board Cut.jpg (83KB - 97 downloads)
04 Mirror Mounting items.jpg (99KB - 94 downloads)
05 Mirror Socket & Hole.jpg (118KB - 83 downloads)
06 Mirror Socket Mounted.jpg (73KB - 86 downloads)
07 Mirror Cable Outlet.jpg (66KB - 86 downloads)
08 Automatic Beamer Mounting Items.jpg (66KB - 89 downloads)
09 Automatic Beamer Socket Mounted.jpg (75KB - 92 downloads)
10 Front Panel Chrome Bar.jpg (68KB - 86 downloads)
Taillight Lenses: As NOS they are offered in various boxes (01) and labels (GLO-BRITE – SER-DO-TMC). When light ON they show visible differences in the red tone side on side (02), here OFF. Thus I have never bought a single one, but a complete set of four. Mounting NOS taillight lenses can be very critical.
As their material has become brittle due to age, by inserting the first time the conical self-tapping screws, the lens may already brake. Further, as the original screws are shorter than the hole, when tighting the lenses threads may run out. Finally, the sealing rubber applies a constant pressure causing cold flow of the plastic material.Here how this can be prevented, shown for 1959 DODGE lenses:
- Cut carefully a thread, preferably M4, for safety reasons using three screw taps (1-2-3), this to the full depth of the hole (03).
- Insert a headless screw M4 and fix it with a glue without solvent (04).
- Instead of standard rubbers (05) apply a permanent (never drying) flexible seal as used in sanitary (06).N
Now the arranged lens is ready to be inserted in the housing (07). The screw will center the lens in the correct position, press in fully to the limit. The screw nuts slightly tightened, press in again till the stop is sensed, the seal is now fitted.
For disassemble at removed nuts, wipe the lens softly, so as it can be pulled out. - SERGE - :)
Edited by sermey 2017-03-11 8:07 AM
(01 Various Boxes.jpg)
(02 Various Labels.jpg)
(03 Three Screw Taps.jpg)
(04 Headless Screw Mounted.jpg)
(05 Rubber Seals.jpg)
(06 Permanent Flexible Seal.jpg)
(07 Lens ready for mount.jpg)
01 Various Boxes.jpg (71KB - 84 downloads)
02 Various Labels.jpg (75KB - 91 downloads)
03 Three Screw Taps.jpg (63KB - 91 downloads)
04 Headless Screw Mounted.jpg (62KB - 91 downloads)
05 Rubber Seals.jpg (43KB - 83 downloads)
06 Permanent Flexible Seal.jpg (51KB - 87 downloads)
07 Lens ready for mount.jpg (51KB - 88 downloads)
Location: D-70199 Heslach
|Found on Fazzebook. |
Sankt Margarethen 1999
(1999 US-Car Meeting in St. Margrethen (CH) 001.jpg)
1999 US-Car Meeting in St. Margrethen (CH) 001.jpg (139KB - 93 downloads)
Yes, I did Dave, as described earlier in this thread. - SERGE -
LED Headlights: First they had pressed glass lamps (01), not efficient and a somewhat yellow light. Later appeared the halogen beam bulbs, H4, H7, with whiter light (02). The newest blue bulb should produce a cooler light.H4 is a dual beam with two connectors, H7 single a beam with one connector. Standard in FWL-cars there are two single H7 and two dual H4 bulbs.
Earlier I modified all pressed glass lamps to halogen H4, enabling to turn ON all 4 beams by a separate switch, for show or redundancy only (03).
Now the time has come to have really white headlights using LED technology. There are various devices on the market, some with built-in ventilator, and some without. As I don’t like something additional moving and noising, I preferred the LED beam bulb with a conventional heat sink module. As best for my purpose I found: Philips 9003 CSP H4 HB2 LED Car Headlight Hi/Lo Beam Bulbs 180W 18000LM 6500K (04). It has the same 3-pole connector as needed for my DODGE (and other FWL-Cars), enabling a direct connection (05).
As this modification needs some special approaches, some steps are presented more detailed.
First the entire headlight unit has to be pulled out, fixed by the 3 screws, and the back panel removed (06). As there is not enough space for the connectors behind the bulb, due to the cooling module, they have to be transferred outside the beamer housing. Fortunately the cable length of the LED unit just fits, as well the depth for the cooling module, straight correct (5mm!).
The original sealing rubber cannot be mounted as is, must cut and grind (07). A permanent (never-drying) flexible seal can be applied instead. Then the LED beamer has to be opened by unfasten the side screw (08), and unsolder the three wires (09). Inverse the rubber seal for mount (10), re-solder the wires, and fix the items as it was (11). Inverse again the rubber seal and spread the retainer springs for free positioning (12), and when LED Beamer is inserted fix it by clipping in (13), done (14).
The rear lamp panel can be linked in (15), the entire LED headlight unit is ready for install (16). Now re-mount this Unit by the 3 fixing screws, then connect the LED bulb, and the new beamer system is ready for operate.
As the bulb has two single LED arrays, the light emission with the reflector is according to the halogen bulb. This is a reference check (17). The earlier pressed glass lamps looked yellow in comparison to the halogen lamps. Now the halogen lamps seemed as well to shine quite yellow in comparison to the full white LED light (18). The improved lightning is impressive, for security, on road, at night – and for show (road pictures will be posted later on).
Another useful and outstanding feature, adaptable for most FWL-cars! - SERGE - ;)
Edited by sermey 2017-03-14 2:59 AM
(01 Pressed Glass Lamp.jpg)
(02 Halogen Headlight Bulbs.jpg)
(03 All Halogen Headlights ON.jpg)
(04 LED Headlight H4 Philips CSP.jpg)
(05 H4 Headlights connectors.jpg)
(06 Halogen Headlight Unit Rear View.jpg)
(07 Rubber Seal Diameter Cut and Grinded.jpg)
(08 Unfasten the Cooling Module.jpg)
(09 Ready for unsolder.jpg)
(10 Rubber inversed over Cooling Module.jpg)
(11 Rubber back for fixing.jpg)
(12 Retainer Spring Spread.jpg)
(13 LED Fixed with Retainer Spring.jpg)
(14 LED Headlight Side View.jpg)
(15 LED Headlight Unit Ready for install.jpg)
(16 LED Headlight Unit Front View.jpg)
(17 LED Alignment Test.jpg)
(18 Difference Halogen - LED Headlight.jpg)
01 Pressed Glass Lamp.jpg (62KB - 112 downloads)
02 Halogen Headlight Bulbs.jpg (77KB - 115 downloads)
03 All Halogen Headlights ON.jpg (111KB - 109 downloads)
04 LED Headlight H4 Philips CSP.jpg (106KB - 120 downloads)
05 H4 Headlights connectors.jpg (68KB - 112 downloads)
06 Halogen Headlight Unit Rear View.jpg (80KB - 116 downloads)
07 Rubber Seal Diameter Cut and Grinded.jpg (70KB - 110 downloads)
08 Unfasten the Cooling Module.jpg (62KB - 108 downloads)
09 Ready for unsolder.jpg (89KB - 105 downloads)
10 Rubber inversed over Cooling Module.jpg (66KB - 118 downloads)
11 Rubber back for fixing.jpg (55KB - 109 downloads)
12 Retainer Spring Spread.jpg (81KB - 109 downloads)
13 LED Fixed with Retainer Spring.jpg (54KB - 112 downloads)
14 LED Headlight Side View.jpg (77KB - 116 downloads)
15 LED Headlight Unit Ready for install.jpg (81KB - 119 downloads)
16 LED Headlight Unit Front View.jpg (87KB - 112 downloads)
17 LED Alignment Test.jpg (51KB - 109 downloads)
18 Difference Halogen - LED Headlight.jpg (72KB - 122 downloads)
Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+
Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island
|Very nice "update" modification Serge. This is a safety and improved night driving option that anyone could install. |
You have also chosen the correct quality LED's with the light elements in the same place as the filament in a bulb, which makes a perfect match and light beam alignment "as before".
Also, this is easy to remove if someone would like to go "hard-core purist" on a car!
Very nice background explanation and good photos - as usually
Circular LEDs: Replacing the standard bulbs of the taillights by LED lamps, the overall light has become significant brighter, but the difference in intensity between position light and stop/directional light got somewhat reduced.
I found a circular red LED device (01), with a plastic carrier 60mm, fitted with a mini connector (02). Without the carrier it has an outer diameter of 59mm, fitting exactly in the inner groove of the taillight lens (03), being fixed with some glue. The cable is fed through the lamps housing (04), is connected separately, and can be disconnected at any time if needed, rear the lamp unit. When OFF, the LED is not noticeable from outside.
This a view at reduced camera (05). (road pictures will be posted later on).
Now the stop and directional light has become more accentuated - for the rear drivers highly spectacular (06)! - SERGE -
Edited by sermey 2017-03-15 12:51 PM
(01 Circular Red LED.jpg)
(02 LED with Carrier and Connector.jpg)
(03 Circular LED in Taillight Lens.jpg)
(04 DSC07835 Cable Feedthrough.jpg)
(05 Circular Red LED ON.jpg)
(06 Stop & Directional Light.jpg)
01 Circular Red LED.jpg (72KB - 113 downloads)
02 LED with Carrier and Connector.jpg (57KB - 113 downloads)
03 Circular LED in Taillight Lens.jpg (106KB - 118 downloads)
04 DSC07835 Cable Feedthrough.jpg (89KB - 120 downloads)
05 Circular Red LED ON.jpg (41KB - 115 downloads)
06 Stop & Directional Light.jpg (87KB - 123 downloads)
Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+
Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island
|As always, Serge is constantly looking and researching for to make improvements. This update will give a more aggressive look and for sure alert the cars behind.|
Location: The Mile High City
|Astounding! Excellent work, Serge.|
|Jump to page : 1 2 3 4 5 6 |
Now viewing page 5 [50 messages per page]
|Search this forum|
Printer friendly version
E-mail a link to this thread
|(Delete all cookies set by this site)|