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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 499
 
Location: A proud Canadian | Just wondering if any of our resident experts can tell me where I can get a set of new lower control arm strut bushings for a 1960 Desoto/Chrysler??? I don't have a part #, but I figure that there is probably a few 60 Chrysler/Desoto owners on here that have probably had to replace these that could provide me with some info... Is this a part that could be gotten at NAPA??? Any info would be appreciated... Thanks in advance. |
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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 322
Location: Finland | "Motor`s flat rate & parts manual" gives spare part number 2084214 (bushing kit 1960-61 DeSoto).
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Veteran
Posts: 186
| I guess it's as far away as your local NAPA. Checkout htis link, it might be the bushing that you need.
http://www.napaonline.com/MasterPages/NOLMaster.aspx?PageId=470&Lin...
Good luck! |
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Exner Expert 19,174 posts. Neil passed away 18 Sep 2015. You will be missed, Neil!
Posts: 19146
 
Location: bishop, ca | Billy Jack, if you are talking about the bushings that are installed at/on the FRONT cross member, and not at/on the
lower control arm, then, Just Suspension is the place to call/contact.
The make a unique heavy-duty strut bar bushing which is greatly superior to the wimpy little 'crush-sleeve' guy
(which resembles a sort of elongated-barrel, with a groove around its middle).
The Hot Rod issue I recently re-read, on the 58 Fury said that one of the strut rod's functions was to stabilize the front
end dipping, during hard braking.--It, obviously, also serves to stabilize the movement of the LCA.
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Location: Parts Unknown | For years all my front end kits came from Kanter. Since Ihave owned the same cars for quite a while now, I haven't had a need for these parts. No doubt Kanter has them. Maybe others like Neil mentioned. I still have a complete kit for 60 DeSoto in my junk somewhere.
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Expert
Posts: 3575
Location: Netherlands | I always use the poly strutrod kit from a B-body Mopar and grind down the inner bushing halves first so the strutrod will fit with the car at rest/ride height.
Then I grind down the (more important) outer bushing half aswell if the strutrod has a hole for a cotter pin in it.
On my '60 NY I didn't need to grind the outer.
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Exner Expert 19,174 posts. Neil passed away 18 Sep 2015. You will be missed, Neil!
Posts: 19146
Location: bishop, ca | That is what the Just Suspension bushing resembles, except that the J.S. piece is apparently larger in thickness/cross-section.
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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 499
Location: A proud Canadian | Thanks all... Much appreciated. |
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Veteran
Posts: 179
Location: Western New York | This is a photo of the heavy duty bushings from the Just Suspension website (this is for a '58 Desoto)
http://www.justsuspension.com/catalog/product/view/id/23992/s/strut... |
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Exner Expert 19,174 posts. Neil passed away 18 Sep 2015. You will be missed, Neil!
Posts: 19146
Location: bishop, ca | ...that bushing will work on all the FWDLK models.
Funny thing is: the support washers do NOT get installed so that they would (apparently-logically) extend-around the square-edges of
the bushings, but, instead, they are installed so that the washers CURVE-AWAY from the bushings, which allows the bushings
to move/rotate around the convexity of the washers, rather than to be 'trapped' by the concavity of the washers.
Looks weird; works FINE.
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Expert 5K+
Posts: 7410
Location: northern germany | BigBlockMopar - 2009-04-17 7:29 PM
I always use the poly strutrod kit from a B-body Mopar and grind down the inner bushing halves first so the strutrod will fit with the car at rest/ride height.
Then I grind down the (more important) outer bushing half aswell if the strutrod has a hole for a cotter pin in it.
On my '60 NY I didn't need to grind the outer.
yep, as i said a many times before here on this website only (B body) POLY bushings for strut rods. i replaced the new soft rubber bushings, worn after just one year of use, with poly bushings about 18 years ago. they still look like new. they last forever and reduce lower control arm bushing wear. |
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Exner Expert 19,174 posts. Neil passed away 18 Sep 2015. You will be missed, Neil!
Posts: 19146
Location: bishop, ca | Arthur's (56Fireflite) image, above, is of the OEM-type of strut rod bushing that a performance-minded driver
does NOT want to buy.
Get the Just Suspension bushing, and the rest of their suspension components, too.
It's 1-stop shopping, for us.
Edited by d500neil 2009-04-25 9:20 PM
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Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+
Location: .Norfolk..Mafia.. ,England UK | Fro NEIL.
.............
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Finally got around to photographing the properly-installed Just
Suspension heavy-duty front strut rod bushings.
Note the size of this guy, and the fact that its supporting washer is
installed convex-side-against the bushing, to allow for suspension movement.
 (100.jpg)
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 100.jpg (104KB - 107 downloads)
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Expert
Posts: 3951
Location: Bama | I would have installed that washer the other way. Maybe I'm tawded. |
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Exner Expert 19,174 posts. Neil passed away 18 Sep 2015. You will be missed, Neil!
Posts: 19146
Location: bishop, ca | No, etcetc---that washer's installation is completely counter-intuitive; it would SEEM that the washer should be positioned
so as to wrap around the bushing, but no.........according to Just Suspension's instructions.
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Expert
Posts: 1218
Location: Warren, Michigan | Do you guys know if just suspension also provides these heavy duty bushings for the upper and lower control arm in addition to all the other sway bar bushings for our cars?
Do we have a spot on our website to keep track of all these part numbers? It may be a valuable addition if we don't have one yet. |
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Expert 5K+
Posts: 7410
Location: northern germany | lawrence - 2009-05-15 8:04 PM
I would have installed that washer the other way.
yes, regardless what the instruction says its installed incorrect. the way its installed it unnecessarily stresses the bushing. installed with the inside facing the bushing it wouldn't interfere/hinder suspension/strut rod travel in any way. |
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Exner Expert 19,174 posts. Neil passed away 18 Sep 2015. You will be missed, Neil!
Posts: 19146
Location: bishop, ca | ..Yeah, certainly: do not ever follow the manufacturer's installation instructions; do it YOUR way....because 'your' intuition is always superior to the manufacturer's testing and experience.
Why, my intuition tells me that there is no real reason to use a curved washer, at all, let alone
a large one, and, I'll bet that any-old nut could be used; hardly any reason to have to secure
the nut to the threaded end of the strut bar, either.
Joey, there are no other dedicated heavy-duty suspension pieces available for our cars, but
there are readily available replacement items for the entire suspension, like ball joints and sway bar bushings.
Edited by d500neil 2009-05-28 2:57 PM
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Expert
Posts: 3575
Location: Netherlands | The way I see it is, if you mount the washers like the JS-instructions tell you to, the bushing works more like a pivot-point.
If you mount the washers the 'logical', or factory way, the bushings will work more like a clamp and the bushings will try to keep the strutrods (and thus the LCA's) level with the car. They will try to dampen the suspension travel, especially when polyurethane bushings are used.
So with the washers in the 'cup-position' against the bushings, the ride will be stiffer I think.
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Expert 5K+
Posts: 7410
Location: northern germany | d500neil - 2009-05-28 2:33 PM
..Yeah, certainly: do not ever follow the manufacturer's installation instructions; do it YOUR way....because 'your' intuition is always superior to the manufacturer's testing and experience.
no intuition buddy, just logic technical thinking. something you lack. and i'm using poly strut bushings for 18+ years of daily driving with the washers installed the RIGHT way. thats what i call testing and experience. the bushings still look like new and suspension travel is not affected. |
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Exner Expert 19,174 posts. Neil passed away 18 Sep 2015. You will be missed, Neil!
Posts: 19146
Location: bishop, ca | Funny, that has been my own experience, from following the installation instructions.
No intuition involved.
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Expert 5K+
Posts: 7410
Location: northern germany | d500neil - 2009-05-29 3:28 PM
Funny, that has been my own experience, from following the installation instructions.
No intuition involved.
poly strut bushings for fls are a new thing. i started using modified b body poly bushings in the early 90s and i'd be willing to bet that my car was the first fl ever with poly srut rod bushings. i'm restoring cars for over 20 years and installed poly bushings on ALL my restored cars. thats today a combined mileage of about 350 000 troublefree miles. how long have YOU been running poly bushings??? and you can bet i stressed my bushing more than you did, like 150+ to 0 panic stops. and by the way the original manufacturer or "inventor" of poly bushings who sells these for 20 years does not give these stupid instructions, go figure.
Edited by 1960fury 2009-05-29 5:28 PM
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Expert 5K+
Posts: 7410
Location: northern germany | here is your "intuition" lol i made this sketch just for YOU so even YOU understand. nobody needs a drawing to figure that out except YOU. now please tell me
what do you see? point A is the pivot point. line B is the washer path during suspension travel. can you describe line B ? you may (?) notice is has the shape of a rounded washer installed the (right) factory way? i hope you got it now?
 (bushingds.jpg)
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bushingds.jpg (81KB - 109 downloads)
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Expert
Posts: 1218
Location: Warren, Michigan | Maybe the installation has no/little affect on the performance of the part. I would probably just install it the same way I took the old one off. Sometimes small things make no difference whatsoever. |
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Expert 5K+
Posts: 7410
Location: northern germany | Fanbladeus - 2009-05-29 6:05 PM
Maybe the installation has no/little affect on the performance of the part. I would probably just install it the same way I took the old one off. Sometimes small things make no difference whatsoever.
sometimes they do. the way neil intalled the washers the braking force unecessarily stresses the bushing. fewer contacting surface means more crush which again means more stress for the lower control arm bushings which are not fun to replace. also the lack of support of a washer that does not wrap around the bushing can sooner or later destroy the bushing.
Edited by 1960fury 2009-05-29 6:26 PM
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Expert 5K+
Posts: 7410
Location: northern germany | d500neil - 2009-05-28 2:33 PM
my intuition tells me that there is no real reason to use a curved washer, at all, let alone
a large one, and, I'll bet that any-old nut could be used;
wow. please never follow your intuition and please, again, stay away from giving technical advice! thanks! |
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Exner Expert 19,174 posts. Neil passed away 18 Sep 2015. You will be missed, Neil!
Posts: 19146
Location: bishop, ca | Thanks, I don't follow instinct, and I suggest that you do the same, as yours is defective. |
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Expert 5K+
Posts: 7410
Location: northern germany | hey neil, have you ever owned a 60 plymouth? if you did i bet you hated it because you had trouble adding the power steering fluid, since you always follow instructions without using common sense...  forwardlook.net/forums/images/emoticons/wink.gif'>
 (instructions1ds.jpg)
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instructions1ds.jpg (115KB - 110 downloads)
instructions2ds.jpg (120KB - 102 downloads)
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Expert
Posts: 3575
Location: Netherlands | Ouch! Ok, now that's a wee bit funny there... forwardlook.net/forums/images/emoticons/wink.gif'> |
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Elite Veteran
Posts: 990
| The Kanter rebuild kit worked for me more than once. May as well replace everything while you are at it.
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Lower control arm strut bushings...
