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Member
Posts: 5
Location: Cameron Park, CA | My 1955 Chrysler 300 is in need of drive-shaft repair.
The front joint feels OK, but dust boot is ripped.
The rear universal joint has brinelling, and needs to be replaced.
It also appears that the 1955 is a child of its own. I have not been able to find a universal joint for the rear; OEM is 1603233.
It has two LWD (Low Wing Drilled) bearing cups, and two round bearing cups. The measurements that I get do not match any other u-joint; in the charts that I have gone through.
I would prefer a one piece dust boot, to avoid adding a heavy spot on the drive-shaft, and with the cone to keep the grease in place.
I am looking into replacing the drive-shaft with a conversion type from Driveshaft Specialist of Texas
http://www.driveshaftspecialist.com/Left-Column/Antique-Classics.ht...
Not cheap but this would allow me to have modern replacement parts. The problem is no one can find the rear OEM u-joint, and the front u-joint flange is bigger than they expect.
There seem to be two common flanges, a 3 5/8" and a 4", mine is 4 3/8" diameter and bolt circle of 3 7/16".
Link to u-joint photos, and measurments.
https://picasaweb.google.com/George.Rowe3/Driveshaft1955Chrysler300?...
Any ideas on how to get my drive-shaft problems fixed?
Edited by GRowe 2012-04-18 5:03 PM
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Location: Under the X in Texas | I have used Driveshaft Specialist, San Antonio, several times for joint replacement and balancing and they are absolutely top notch. |
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Expert
Posts: 3399
Location: Chestertown, NY ( near Lake George) | I got my rear joint from Birnbaum, 95.00, the front boot I used a universal one piece fwd drive axle boot, worked fine. I do not see the need for this conversion, I did the work in my shop and all has been well.
Edited by Shep 2012-04-18 7:36 PM
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Member
Posts: 5
Location: Cameron Park, CA | Thanks for the reply Shep.
I took a look and mine is not listed there; as far as I can tell. The 1955 300 just seems to be the odd man out.
That is one reason that I really think that getting a modern setup would be best. As it is, I would not drive any
farther than I could afford to have the car towed back home; and I do so like getting out there, and down the road.
I have also been know to drop the hammer, and I would hate to trash the universals on the road.
PS
As I am doing some forensics on my 331' engine, I am using my 1957 392' in its place; the drive-shaft needs to
handle that power as well. |
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Expert
Posts: 1730
Location: Michigan | I would suggest you read this thread... had me rethink the whole plan. I have a 55 also.
http://www.forwardlook.net/forums/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=22951&... |
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Expert
Posts: 3399
Location: Chestertown, NY ( near Lake George) | Call Birnbaum, I do not believe the rear joint is different on the 300, in general that shaft is pretty strong, a modern design U joint may be stronger but I couldn't say that. |
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Member
Posts: 5
Location: Cameron Park, CA | Hi Beltran and Shep,
I will give Brinbaum a call to see if he has the correct rear u-joint.
Please note that the basic problem is not one of strength, it is availability of parts.
As these parts have gotten so scarce, the few people that have them to sell are commanding excessively high prices.
It looks like the rear u-joint that may fit, is now going for $165!
I am not concerned that the car is not absolutely original, I am concerned that I have a mechanically sound car.
While the conversion style is not correct, as an original equipment, it would be easy to get repairs, if needed, in the future.
When I go out, I am normally confident that my car is in sound mechanical shape, and do not hesitate to take long trips.
As the universals are now so scarce, if available, I now do not feel confident in my longer trips; with the possibility that if a
u-joint fails (I know they are strong, but...) I could not expect to have any parts house or shop to have the replacement parts.
That being said I would prefer the easiest solution. Replace the OEM rear u-joint, and front dust cover, and keeping my old
rear u-joint as an emergency backup.
Beltran, is your 1955 a 300?
Do you know what the flange diameter at the transmission is? (Not what it is supposed to be, but have actually measured it)
I am beginning to wonder if I have an early or late production change, that makes this drive-shaft "unique".
-George
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Expert
Posts: 1730
Location: Michigan | George,
I have a 55 Windsor. But if it helps I have mine laying on the garage floor atm so I took a few picks.
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Expert
Posts: 1730
Location: Michigan | Reviewing your pictures, it looks like we have the same setup. God I love this car, so many 1 year unique features! This is right up there with the Brake Booster and Master Cylinder. bleh.
I wonder... you have the Two spd transmission I bet?
Edited by Beltran 2012-04-19 8:30 PM
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Expert
Posts: 3399
Location: Chestertown, NY ( near Lake George) | All 55 Mopars only had a Powerflite, Torqueflite was very late 56 on. |
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Member
Posts: 5
Location: Cameron Park, CA | It looks like you also have a 4" + flange. It is hard to tell from the photo, does it measure 4 3/8" ?
Would you measure the rear u-joint? Best is to scrape clean the inner face of the yoke. This gets the dimension that contains the retaining clips, which is the value used in finding the proper u-joint.
PS
Regarding the power brake unit, I converted to a dual master unit from a 1967 Chrysler back around 1975. The little boot nipple seal had failed for the third time, and was just to dangerous to drive anymore.
My friend had the same problem, and eventually changed out his on the 1956 Windsor that he had; right after he ran into a front porch when his brake unit also failed.
Edited by GRowe 2012-04-20 1:00 PM
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Expert
Posts: 3399
Location: Chestertown, NY ( near Lake George) | There is only one joint listed in the 55 parts book. I converted my 55 to a power booster and dual master from a 68 New Yorker.
Edited by Shep 2012-04-21 9:12 AM
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Expert
Posts: 2289
Location: Eastern Iowa | Looks like the same joint as the 57's and 8's
Mark Scerman of the 300 club has repro boot kits for $39 + shipping
I have bought from several from him.
He's on the club web site under classified
Dave S |
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Member
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Location: Cameron Park, CA | Hi Dave,
Can you give me a link to the 300 site that you mention?
-George |
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| I put a 56 Chrysler rear end in my 56 Plymouth and bought into all these problems. The solution was to replace the driveshaft with a conversion, cost was under $400. On the rear end, I pulled off the end yoke and replaced it with a modern Spicer part from the catalog that used the modern u-joint. My transmission flange was the smaller one than yours, Spicer had it too. Any good driveshaft company in your town can do the whole enchilada for you, far less than the cost of parts and grief you're chasing now. |
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Expert
Posts: 1730
Location: Michigan | George, Yes mine is the 4 & 3/8" I will check the ujoint today but I imagine its the same as yours. This was the first year of these so I have to believe they were pretty much all the same. I have a 56 Powerflight that I am putting in it (push button and rebuilt by Art Carr) and it has the same 4 & 3/8" fitting on it. So they held that spec on the Powerflights for at least 2 model years. Not that it helps much now... |
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Expert
Posts: 1730
Location: Michigan | George could you also share with me the parts you needed to make that conversion on the brake unit? I will save that information. Mine was just rebuilt and is working well. If I have any more trouble with it.... long story there... I will convert it. I may just go to disk in the front if I have any more issues with these brakes. IT's funny. The 55 power brake booster and master cylinder are very much like modern units we have today. Then they went to this bellows unit and probably other variations and now we are back to what Chrysler came up with in 55 and kept for only 1 model year. |
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New User
Posts: 1
| I am listing one on ebay tonight starting price $28.00 NOS still in Mopar box. look me up seller name is packardv12 thanks darlene |
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| In 55-56, there were two Powerflites. Regular with the smaller flange used in Dodge/Plymouth, and heavy duty with fluid cooling piped to the radiator outlet. These had the bigger flanges and were used in the Chrysler/Desoto/Imperials. |
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Expert
Posts: 1530
Location: ZH, Switzerland | rbmain - 2012-04-20 9:23 AM
I put a 56 Chrysler rear end in my 56 Plymouth and bought into all these problems. The solution was to replace the driveshaft with a conversion, cost was under $400. On the rear end, I pulled off the end yoke and replaced it with a modern Spicer part from the catalog that used the modern u-joint. My transmission flange was the smaller one than yours, Spicer had it too. Any good driveshaft company in your town can do the whole enchilada for you, far less than the cost of parts and grief you're chasing now.
Richard, what's the part number of the Spicer end yoke for the '56 Chrysler rear end? And what universal joint are you using now? A 7260 or a 7290?
Happy Motoring!
Dieter |
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Expert 5K+
Posts: 5139
Location: cornpatch county, Southwest IOA | I can tell you this: that rear U joint is very hard to find and then very expensive if you do. I have a 56 Chrysler Windsor with the Power Pac engine option. It has the rear diff yoke and seal from a New yorker and probably from a B 300 as well. And I think there were other Power Pac changes too.
I had two of those rear U joints offered to me, but when I said I would take them, he backed out on the deal. I will take my diff yoke and the driveshaft with the rear U joint to a driveline shop and try to get a newer easier to find U joint set up.
Very interested in this thread and hope someone can provide the part # for a joint that will bolt in..................MO |
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Expert
Posts: 1530
Location: ZH, Switzerland | Yep, the original universal joint is very hard to find and very expensive. I paid USD 165.- for an universal joint (Detroit 1603 233) that should fit. But the universal state is discussable. The inner seals are very hard and tend to break. I cleaned the whole universal joint with diesel (gasoline oil). I filled in new grease (containing MoS2, better emergency running properties). There are still rusty areas on the cups. I do not intend to buy another original universal joint.
The Windsor /w power pack uses the same parts like the Chrysler, De Soto or Imperial at the rear differential. As far as I got out the 7260 u-joint is slightly smaller and the 7290 u-joint slightly bigger than the original universal joint (with ears at two opposite cups). But the end yoke.... ?
I plan to mount the OEM original u-joint, but I don't expect a long life time.
Happy Motoring!
Dieter |
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New User
Posts: 4
| Looking for the large 4 3/8" front Flange part number for the 55/56 Chrysler New Yorker Ball & Trunnion conversion to a standard type u-joint. Been searching the forum for some time with no luck on a listing. Believe it was a Spicer part if I'm correct Any help would be appreciated.
Edited by 56newyorler07 2023-09-11 4:28 PM
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Expert 5K+
Posts: 9680
Location: So. Cal | Search through this catalog to find one that suits your application. The bolt circle diameter is going to be a more important number to go from. If you can find one that has a larger OD, you can always machine it down to the correct size.
https://images.carid.com/rockford-driveline/items/pdf/rockford-drive...
You can also give these guys a call and see if they know of anything.
http://www.driveshaftspecialist.com/Left-Column/Antique-Classics.ht...
Edited by Powerflite 2023-09-11 9:21 PM
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1955 Chrysler universal joint
