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Leaking cable housing.. Jump to page : 1 Now viewing page 1 [50 messages per page] | View previous thread :: View next thread |
Forward Look Technical Discussions -> Transmission and Rear Axle | Message format |
poly |
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Veteran Posts: 161 Location: Melbourne, Australia | I noticed a fairly large puddle of tranny fluid under my car the other day. I jacked it up and found it had been dripping from where the cable enters the housing. The cable has a bit of play where it goes in, I would say it was loose in the bore. Is there some sort of O-ring or seal that I should be looking to replace? Can it be repaired easily in place? Cheers (IMG_0831a.jpg) Attachments ---------------- IMG_0831a.jpg (70KB - 374 downloads) | ||
di_ch_NY56 |
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Expert Posts: 1530 Location: ZH, Switzerland | I guess this thread could help. Please scroll down. There are two pictures to show the internal of the Powerflite. it should be easy to release the clamp to dig out the shifter cable. Happy Motoring! Dieter http://www.forwardlook.net/forums/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=40516&... | ||
ttotired |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 8443 Location: Perth Australia | Most likely your cable Dieter is pointing you in the right direction The heat shrink you need is called "dual wall" on this side of the country anyway. It is likw a normal heatshrink, but it has a hot melt glue in it. Make sure the cable is clean and dry when you repair it otherwise it will still weep. If yours is like mine, there was no ryme or reason to when it would happen, just one day it would leak heaps then for weeks it would be fine, then just do it again. I believe the actual cause is converter drain back | ||
StillOutThere |
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Location: Under the X in Texas | The overall design is that fluid does fill the bottom end of the cable when not running. Cracks in the outer sheath allow the drip, or worse once the cracks become splits. Imperial Services pricey shift cables are sold through several parts suppliers now. If the dual wall heat shrink will work, GREAT !! | ||
di_ch_NY56 |
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Expert Posts: 1530 Location: ZH, Switzerland | When I look at the picture it seems like someone already tried to repair the cable with the yellow shrink tube. A little more to the push button box the shifter cable looks like crushed (or at least the shell). For me, actually I didn't repair the shifter cable, but bought a set of small O-rings of different sizes. I hope one will fit. The actual state at my Chrysler is that the transmission is leaking at the other side (around the filler tube I assume) and some fluid is seeping out of the ventilation tube of the engine. Happy Motoring! Dieter | ||
poly |
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Veteran Posts: 161 Location: Melbourne, Australia | Thanks for the help, guys. Funnily enough, I cleaned the floor and wiped the area around the leak a few days ago and haven't had a single drip of fluid since! Maybe it's related to how full the tranny is also? When I get her running again I will check to make sure the levels are right. | ||
wizard |
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Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 13050 Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island | It's the torque converter that drains back in the trans with higher level as a result. Next time you start up the car, the front pump fills up the converter, you'll notice a lower lever, fill up the trans - and the circle is closed...... | ||
Ray |
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Expert Posts: 1497 Location: Fairfax, Minnesota | Aliens are involved. My transmision leaked for 10 years. One day last year I drove over a corner of the darkroom tray that I used to catch leaks in the garage. I replaced the tray and the car didn't leak for 4 dmonths of driving and storage. | ||
wizard |
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Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 13050 Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island | That's no aliens - that's Murphy's law | ||
Beltran |
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Expert Posts: 1730 Location: Michigan | I changed the o-ring and resealed the cable with the double layer strink tube from Gary Goers. Worked great. | ||
DepsilonD |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 792 Location: Buena Park, CA | Does anyone know the size of the double layer heat shrink that is needed? I need to do this myself. | ||
poly |
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Veteran Posts: 161 Location: Melbourne, Australia | DepsilonD - 2013-04-02 4:21 AM Does anyone know the size of the double layer heat shrink that is needed? I need to do this myself. I finally got some heat shrink tube and repaired my cable today. Fitted a small piece over the join then a larger piece over that running up the cable. The tube I used has a nominal diameter of 16mm and will shrink down to 5mm. I expected the glue to set hard but after it cooled a while I found the cable was still flexible which was a bonus. Also replaced the O-ring while I was at it so hopefully I have solved my leaking transmission. Thanks to all for the heads up on using dual wall tube.....never even knew it existed (IMG_0926.JPG) (IMG_0927.JPG) (IMG_0930.JPG) (IMG_0931.JPG) Attachments ---------------- IMG_0926.JPG (92KB - 360 downloads) IMG_0927.JPG (62KB - 342 downloads) IMG_0930.JPG (60KB - 340 downloads) IMG_0931.JPG (59KB - 379 downloads) | ||
60 dart |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 8947 Location: WHEELING,WV.>>>HOME OF WWVA | i've done the same with automotive electrical fittings but what i do first is , coat the parts with silicone sealer , then the shrink wrap , 100% leek proof ----------------------------------later | ||
56D500boy |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 9909 Location: Lower Mainland BC | . I had a TorqueFlite shifter cable that had problems with the rubber cover (perished, ripped, etc.) so I looked for a fix and found this thread. I couldn't find the Alco brand shrink tubing up here in Canucklopolis but I did find PICO brand. I looked at the sizes available and decided that the PICO8333-E Three-To-One shrinkage Half Inch Double Wall Shrink Tubing was going to work the best for me. I bought a four (4) foot length of this. I stripped off all the old rubber sheath and cleaned up the metal ends that would be covered by the shrink tubing. I had to remove one of the shifter cable brackets so I could get the shrink tubing going. Then I pushed/pulled the PICO tubing over the shifter cable, stopping at one end just so the tubing covered the metal fitting an appropriate amount. Then I used a heat gun to shrink the tubing progressively from that first end towards the other end. At the other end there was a bit of over-cover but I carried on with the shrinking. When the shrinking was done and the tubing had cooled to the touch, I figured out where the metal fitting was under the tubing and cut the excess shrink tubing away. Here are some photos of the PICO tubing details and the before and after for the shifter cable. Edited by 56D500boy 2020-01-21 4:19 PM (PICO8333-3ThreeToOneHalfInchDoubleWallShrinkTubing_1.jpg) (PICO8333-3ThreeToOneHalfInchDoubleWallShrinkTubing_2.jpg) (57WindsorTFCableShifterBoxEnd_Before.jpg) (57WindsorTFCableShifterBoxEnd_AfterHeatShrinkTubing.jpg) (57WindsorTFCableTransmissionEnd_Before.jpg) (57WindsorTFCableTransmissionEnd_AfterHeatShrinkTubing.jpg) Attachments ---------------- PICO8333-3ThreeToOneHalfInchDoubleWallShrinkTubing_1.jpg (50KB - 290 downloads) PICO8333-3ThreeToOneHalfInchDoubleWallShrinkTubing_2.jpg (68KB - 331 downloads) 57WindsorTFCableShifterBoxEnd_Before.jpg (61KB - 306 downloads) 57WindsorTFCableShifterBoxEnd_AfterHeatShrinkTubing.jpg (142KB - 311 downloads) 57WindsorTFCableTransmissionEnd_Before.jpg (116KB - 308 downloads) 57WindsorTFCableTransmissionEnd_AfterHeatShrinkTubing.jpg (86KB - 311 downloads) | ||
60 dart |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 8947 Location: WHEELING,WV.>>>HOME OF WWVA | i have a cable hangin in the garage right now with a length of fuel hose over the leaking section sealed with a fuel line spring clamp that aint never gonna leak and nobody will know it aint supposed to be that way except a big nose ----------------------------------------later | ||
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