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di_ch_NY56 |
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Expert Posts: 1532 Location: ZH, Switzerland | This day I cleaned the A-Pillar moldings (posts left/right on the windshield). These are made out of die cast (zinc). The dashboard chrome molding around the aluminum plates are looking really sad (cleaned as well). The aluminum plates I'll replace with reproduction from Jan. Some more parts from the parts stack in my attic are visible. E.g. the directional switch. Happy New Year! Happy Restoring! Dieter Edited by di_ch_NY56 2021-01-03 5:31 AM (IMG_8242 A-Pillar molding cleaned.JPG) (IMG_8241 Dashboard bezels and part of directional signal switch.JPG) Attachments ---------------- IMG_8242 A-Pillar molding cleaned.JPG (286KB - 394 downloads) IMG_8241 Dashboard bezels and part of directional signal switch.JPG (316KB - 409 downloads) | ||
di_ch_NY56 |
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Expert Posts: 1532 Location: ZH, Switzerland | Today I was lucky, I got a thermostat housing (thank you Nathan) that looks surprisingly identical to the one on the engine and a NOS cap for the power steering pump. The original power steering pump cap I brushed with the rotating brush and discovered a rusting through hole and heavy corrotion ontop of the cap. The rubber seal on the other hand is still fine. There was no water inside the power steering pump. Happy Restoring! Dieter BTW: condition of the die cast parts of the passenger compartment. Most probably made out of Zamak 3. Humidity (greater than 65%) is a main factor for blisters and pittings (as signs of zinc pest). Parts made after 1960 are usually considered free of the risk of zinc pest since the use of purer materials and more controlled manufacturing conditions make zinc pest degradation unlikely (wikipedia) Edited by di_ch_NY56 2021-01-04 11:53 AM | ||
di_ch_NY56 |
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Expert Posts: 1532 Location: ZH, Switzerland | Long time at the body&paint shop to visit my Letter and helping mounting a rear fender of a 2019 Renault Clio. I marked some resting issues and showed it to the boss, e.g. the hole under the drivers side rear seat. it should be flat and round as the one on the passenger side. The trunk floor is in work now (recessions on the welding line). Happy Restoring! Dieter (IMG_8266 front foot well area passenger side.JPG) (IMG_8267 front foot well area drivers side.JPG) (IMG_8268 rear seat area passenger side.JPG) (IMG_8270 rear seat area drviers side.JPG) Attachments ---------------- IMG_8266 front foot well area passenger side.JPG (256KB - 391 downloads) IMG_8267 front foot well area drivers side.JPG (258KB - 381 downloads) IMG_8268 rear seat area passenger side.JPG (264KB - 394 downloads) IMG_8270 rear seat area drviers side.JPG (299KB - 398 downloads) | ||
di_ch_NY56 |
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Expert Posts: 1532 Location: ZH, Switzerland | First of all a question. What do you use to close the gaps at both A pillar base junction to the rocker panel? On the passenger side the jumping cracker is history (I'm very, very happy - got my Letter with that jumping cracker, noticeable even with the carpet installed). On the drivers side rear passnger seat floor, the hole is round again and the floor is even like before (destoryed by the lock smith shop, with no notification). Happy Restoring! Dieter (IMG_8314 A pillar base passenger side.JPG) (IMG_8315 A pillar base drivers side.JPG) (IMG_8316 rear passenger floor drivers side.JPG) (IMG_8317 foot well passenger side.JPG) Attachments ---------------- IMG_8314 A pillar base passenger side.JPG (151KB - 387 downloads) IMG_8315 A pillar base drivers side.JPG (169KB - 394 downloads) IMG_8316 rear passenger floor drivers side.JPG (153KB - 376 downloads) IMG_8317 foot well passenger side.JPG (141KB - 369 downloads) | ||
sermey |
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Expert Posts: 1231 Location: SWITZERLAND | I hope Dieter, soon you will come to the lucky part of your restoration. Have you all parts ready for assemble? Good Luck! - SERGE - | ||
di_ch_NY56 |
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Expert Posts: 1532 Location: ZH, Switzerland | The propeller shaft is free from rust. Pending works are coat of final color, replacement of the u-joint, replacement of the dust boot and a new grease package (2 ounces, 56 gramm). (2) The propeller shaft is finally painted. I'm waiting for the parts ordered at RockAuto. After I got the notification, I'll visit Leif to visit him and pick up the parcel. I'm asking me, if the dust boot already once has been replaced. I'm missing two tabs at the front cover of the B/T. Happy Restoring! Dieter Edited by di_ch_NY56 2021-01-21 1:24 PM (IMG_8327 rear end propeller shaft.JPG) (IMG_8332 front end propeller shaft.JPG) Attachments ---------------- IMG_8327 rear end propeller shaft.JPG (188KB - 372 downloads) IMG_8332 front end propeller shaft.JPG (123KB - 371 downloads) | ||
di_ch_NY56 |
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Expert Posts: 1532 Location: ZH, Switzerland | I got the new brake lines this morning. Checked the content of the parcel and packed the brake lines into the box again (waiting to be installed) in my attic. Happy Restoring! Dieter (IMG_8351 new brake lines.JPG) Attachments ---------------- IMG_8351 new brake lines.JPG (306KB - 369 downloads) | ||
mikes2nd |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 5072 | Disk brake upgrade? | ||
di_ch_NY56 |
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Expert Posts: 1532 Location: ZH, Switzerland | mikes2nd - 2021-01-27 3:54 PM Disk brake upgrade? Thanks for your question. No, I'm keeping the original four drum set up. For the speed of the traffic in Switzerland it's enough. For sure with a disk brake set up at the front axle, the braking power would be better, but no chance to get the historic state when getting to the traffic administration. Happy Restoring! Dieter | ||
22mafeja |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 707 Location: Finland | I also keep the drum brakes on my Firedome 58. I think they are reasonably good , of course you`d better not do more than one 75 mph to zero stops each afternoon In Finland we may put disc brakes and still get the historic vehicle registration.. | ||
di_ch_NY56 |
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Expert Posts: 1532 Location: ZH, Switzerland | I did a phone call to the engine restorer.. the engine block is at the zyinder grinder shop. At the restorers the crankshaft has been polished (.01 under size prior polishing - once grinded is the judgement of the engine restorer). Bearings for the crankshaft and camshaft are ordered. Happy Restoring! Dieter | ||
di_ch_NY56 |
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Expert Posts: 1532 Location: ZH, Switzerland | The body and paint shop owner works very carefully (more than most generic swiss professionals). We visited the freshly primed Letter and discussed about the further steps. The body&paint shop owner announced, that the rear end is almost finished. Happy Restoring! Dieter (IMG_8418 rear end three quarts view passenger side.JPG) (IMG_8419 driver side rear end sight to the front.JPG) (IMG_8421 passenger side rear end.JPG) Attachments ---------------- IMG_8418 rear end three quarts view passenger side.JPG (315KB - 332 downloads) IMG_8419 driver side rear end sight to the front.JPG (288KB - 333 downloads) IMG_8421 passenger side rear end.JPG (284KB - 334 downloads) | ||
ToMopar |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 1182 Location: D-70199 Heslach | Sieht bis jetzt sehr gut aus, Dieter. Looks good until now, Dieter | ||
di_ch_NY56 |
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Expert Posts: 1532 Location: ZH, Switzerland | As almost ever Saturday moring I did visit the paint and body shop. The boss (owner) worked at my Letter. The passenger side rear panels are almost finished. The four dark spots are small recessions (0.1 millimeters or less). We walked around my Letter and were discussing the work to be performed at the rear end panel. The boss will do a final inspection and correct small imperfections all around prior to apply the primer. The the sanding will be done and the final layers of the original color will be applied. From the boss I heard, all imperfections will be solved prior the final layers of the original color. So there is no correction at the surface with the final coatings of the original color (the boss worked some certain time to get the formula of that color). Happy Restoring! Dieter (IMG_8484 passenger side quarter panel.JPG) Attachments ---------------- IMG_8484 passenger side quarter panel.JPG (209KB - 315 downloads) | ||
di_ch_NY56 |
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Expert Posts: 1532 Location: ZH, Switzerland | This morning I visited the shop again. The drivers side wing is almost finished. There is only a slight surface of filler (just with the primer there is no correction without filler). Happy Restoring Dieter BTW: the most left hand part of the vertical line of the rear sheet metal the boss will adjust the line. It's about 1 centimeter to high compared to the correct passenger side area. The tempory body worker made an error. Edited by di_ch_NY56 2021-03-20 1:40 PM (IMG_8514 drivers side wing almost finished.JPG) Attachments ---------------- IMG_8514 drivers side wing almost finished.JPG (343KB - 309 downloads) | ||
di_ch_NY56 |
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Expert Posts: 1532 Location: ZH, Switzerland | Little further progress at the 300 F. Checking the clearance around the tail lights. Last Saturday the owner of the body and paint shop told me, he did order the primer for the 300 F. Happy Restoring! Dieter (IMG_8611 tail lights fit in - check.JPG) Attachments ---------------- IMG_8611 tail lights fit in - check.JPG (233KB - 292 downloads) | ||
di_ch_NY56 |
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Expert Posts: 1532 Location: ZH, Switzerland | this afternoon I did open the B/T of the propeller shaft of my Letter. There was a big, big load of old grease inside (all small parts cleaned with White Spirit). One button doesn't look that nice. What to do now? (2) Some time back I purchased a B/T overhaul kit, containing the pin, 2 rollers, needle bearing, 2 shoes, 2 springs, two rubber O-rings, case cover (/wo "Detroit" stamp) and the gasket. The original cover has/had two missing tabs, an eaten up gasket and two bumps in the covers from the rollers. It fits the completely crushed driver side rear axle rubber stop on the rail over the axle (replaced on both sides). Happy Restoring! Dieter Edited by di_ch_NY56 2021-05-12 2:09 PM (IMG_8690 ball-trunion internal cleaning and surprise.JPG) Attachments ---------------- IMG_8690 ball-trunion internal cleaning and surprise.JPG (282KB - 263 downloads) | ||
wizard |
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Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 13069 Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island | You need a NOS b&t restiring Kit Dieter, the housing is direkt damage as well. Check with a small dentist Mirror. To changed the housing requires än hydraulic press and some distance pressing tools. | ||
di_ch_NY56 |
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Expert Posts: 1532 Location: ZH, Switzerland | wizard - 2021-05-11 9:53 PM You need a NOS b&t restiring Kit Dieter, the housing is direkt damage as well. Check with a small dentist Mirror. To changed the housing requires än hydraulic press and some distance pressing tools. It's almost impossible to get a NOS b&t restoring kit with a good housing... for me. I guess it's the Chrysler Joint Package 1739 680 (16-03-1 in the 1960 Chrysler parts catalog). Happy Restoring! Dieter Edited by di_ch_NY56 2021-05-13 12:25 AM | ||
di_ch_NY56 |
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Expert Posts: 1532 Location: ZH, Switzerland | I'm just asking myself if the b/t-case is not to salvagealbe? The damage is on one side where the shoe rides. The output torque of the transmission (highest at the transition from stand still to drive under full throttle) is transferred over the parallel, good surfaces. Happy Restoring! Dieter of course the singers politeness is quite (IMG_8693 ball trunnion case inside.JPG) Attachments ---------------- IMG_8693 ball trunnion case inside.JPG (220KB - 262 downloads) | ||
Powerflite |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 9954 Location: So. Cal | You could try welding the old shoe to build it up and grinding the profile back to where it should be, or try to get a good replacement, and then try it out. If it doesn't work, then I would convert the driveshaft to a slip-yolk version. Edited by Powerflite 2021-05-13 11:23 AM | ||
di_ch_NY56 |
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Expert Posts: 1532 Location: ZH, Switzerland | Powerflite - 2021-05-12 5:22 PM You could try welding the old shoe to build it up and grinding the profile back to where it should be, or try to get a good replacement, and then try it out. If it doesn't work, then I would convert the driveshaft to a slip-yolk version. Big thank you for your comment. Happy Restoring! Dieter BTW: I had a phone call to the engine restorer. The engine block is right now at the cylinder grinder shop since some time. | ||
56D500boy |
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Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 10227 Location: Lower Mainland BC | . Dieter: Check your bluemail email. | ||
di_ch_NY56 |
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Expert Posts: 1532 Location: ZH, Switzerland | 56D500boy - 2021-05-12 8:21 PM . Dieter: Check your bluemail email. thanks Dave It's 4.25 inch (around 10.8 centimeters) As far as I know, the same size like on the 1956 New Yorker, because the restoring kit from epain I purchased ways earlier than I purchased the 300 F. Happy Restoring! Dieter Edited by di_ch_NY56 2021-05-13 2:29 PM | ||
wizard |
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Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 13069 Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island | The housing is done Dieter, any wear inside the slots, especially in the drive direktion will create vibrations on acceleration. The b&t is a really sturdy constant velocity construction if given proper maintenance. The reason I rekommenderar NOS is that the "yellow" ones cost half the price, but lasts a couple of years. A NOS one will work another 60 years. | ||
di_ch_NY56 |
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Expert Posts: 1532 Location: ZH, Switzerland | wizard - 2021-05-13 7:12 AM The housing is done Dieter, any wear inside the slots, especially in the drive direktion will create vibrations on acceleration. The b&t is a really sturdy constant velocity construction if given proper maintenance. The reason I rekommenderar NOS is that the "yellow" ones cost half the price, but lasts a couple of years. A NOS one will work another 60 years. Dear Sven For sure a NOS will last ways longer than a preused. I do not drive ten-thousands of miles every year (neither with the NY nor in future with the 300 F). Actually we all will not know what the future will bring (e.g. how long will we be able to get fuel for our beaties nor how long we will stay on live. But for sure another 60 years I will not survive ( would turn almost to 120 years old, more than the maximum biological livespan of a human). For absolutely sure I will not convert one of my Chrysler cars to an electric drive. In my opinion every oldtimer already converted lost his soul. Stay healthy, kind regards to Ingegerd as well Dieter BTW: I know (read) that Porsche and some industrial co-investors will erect a plant to produce eco-friendly fuel for old Porsche cars (a Liter, a little bit more than a liquid quart) will most probably cost CHF 4 to CHF 5 (USD 19 to USD 23.- every gallon). | ||
di_ch_NY56 |
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Expert Posts: 1532 Location: ZH, Switzerland | Actually I have the worst case scenario at the drive line (transmission, e-brake drum, propeller shaft)... I'm getting a 4 3/8" B/T, hopefully cut at the front welding seam of the propeller shaft. The brake drum (on the existing A466) fit's the small (4") B/T (with a discolored pin and a beyond repair body). The A466 transmission is a Plymouth High Power version. At the parts catalog I noticed several 59" propeller shafts for different cars (apparently some with the small B/T and some with the big B/T). At an uncertain time at my 300 F not only the original A466 has been dropped, but the propeller shaft as well. I hope that a very, very kind (and positiv thinking about me) would like to investigate where the original transmission sits and will inform me. I know a very precise working mechanic shop rebuilding propeller shafts as well (when I visited their site, I realised, that this would had been a valuable alternative for rebuilding the engine). Happy Restoring! Dieter BTW: original propeller shaft: 1856 933 | ||
wizard |
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Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 13069 Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island | Most probably Big M would have the large propeller shaft and the large drum Dieter. Check for prices and compare with the cost of converting your propeller shaft. | ||
di_ch_NY56 |
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Expert Posts: 1532 Location: ZH, Switzerland | wizard - 2021-05-15 2:53 PM Most probably Big M would have the large propeller shaft and the large drum Dieter. Check for prices and compare with the cost of converting your propeller shaft. Hi Sven you might be right. But it's not only the parts price for the brake drum and the propeller shaft, the shipping costs (plus import fees, car parts additional fee and VAT) are a big factor as well. I guess I do not have to hurry. I got several more weeks delay for the body and the engine (at least the engine is/was at the cylinder grinder shop since/for few weeks, I'm more interested that the body&paint shop owner works on cars (BMW from a dealer) that bring him good money). I don't know your opinion, but for the car power test stand, I could use the existing propeller shaft slightly shaved the brows at the inside of one arm in the case and use the propeller shaft sub project for my next winter holiday season. Happy Restoring! Dieter Edited by di_ch_NY56 2021-05-16 10:17 AM | ||
di_ch_NY56 |
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Expert Posts: 1532 Location: ZH, Switzerland | The first trial with the 2001 Dodge Neon CV boot 614-001 at the temporary wrong propeller shaft mounted for break in and power test of the engine. The brows in the case I shaved with a small, round rasp. I used silicone oil instead of grease. But I was able to work the boot through the case with loads of patience and no #@*&^%. I still hope I'll get a 1658 931 or 1658 933 propeller shaft from Williams CA, 95987 Happy Restoring Dieter | ||
di_ch_NY56 |
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Expert Posts: 1532 Location: ZH, Switzerland | The first trial with the 2001 Dodge Neon CV boot 614-001 at the temporary wrong propeller shaft mounted for break in and power test of the engine. The brows in the case I shaved with a small, round rasp. I used silicone oil instead of grease. But I was able to work the boot through the case with loads of patience and no #@*&^%. I still hope I'll get a 1658 931 or 1658 933 propeller shaft from Williams CA, 95987 Happy Restoring Dieter BTW: other members here will discover immediatly what fault I did.... (;) (IMG_8699 wrong propeller shaft first trial with the CV boot.JPG) Attachments ---------------- IMG_8699 wrong propeller shaft first trial with the CV boot.JPG (246KB - 260 downloads) | ||
ToMopar |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 1182 Location: D-70199 Heslach | di_ch_NY56 - 2021-05-17 4:19 PM hope I'll get a 1658 931 or 1658 933 propeller shaft from Williams CA, 95987 I think from John................ | ||
di_ch_NY56 |
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Expert Posts: 1532 Location: ZH, Switzerland | ToMopar - 2021-05-17 3:07 PM di_ch_NY56 - 2021-05-17 4:19 PM hope I'll get a 1658 931 or 1658 933 propeller shaft from Williams CA, 95987 I think from John................Hi Sid Yes, but until now no answer... Happy Restoring! Dieter | ||
mikes2nd |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 5072 | hmm mine went on good, yours is cheap molded, two piece and then welded together. Get a better quality one | ||
di_ch_NY56 |
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Expert Posts: 1532 Location: ZH, Switzerland | I got an answer from John (Big M). More later on. Happy Restoring! Dieter I know, if I'll get the parts I have to restore a second propeller shaft and brake drum, I guess, both will be black (brake drum satin, propeller shaft glossy) | ||
di_ch_NY56 |
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Expert Posts: 1532 Location: ZH, Switzerland | I'm getting the parts I did wish to get. Big thank you to John Fowlie. Happy Restoring! Dieter | ||
di_ch_NY56 |
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Expert Posts: 1532 Location: ZH, Switzerland | On the license frame (rear) the plate is flat. The whole assembly has minor surface rust. But both threaded stems are shot. One broke off during removal from the body, on the other I could not turn the hex nut to the bottom end. As you can see, the flat button (top view) is spot welded to the bracket with several spots. First I tried to free the circumference with the Dremel. Then I destroyed two drills while trying to drill through the spots. Next Saturday the big angle grinder to work the buttons from top to down to remove both stems. With no threaded stems the bracket is easier to clean. I guess this solution has been chosen by Chrysler Coorperation back in the days to shorten the mounting time on the assembly line. Space for an allen or a hex screw is more than enough. Happy Restoring! Dieter (IMG_8727 mounting bracket hinge of the license plate holder bottom.JPG) (IMG_8726 mounting bracket hinge of the license plate holder top view.JPG) Attachments ---------------- IMG_8727 mounting bracket hinge of the license plate holder bottom.JPG (174KB - 248 downloads) IMG_8726 mounting bracket hinge of the license plate holder top view.JPG (176KB - 271 downloads) | ||
56D500boy |
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Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 10227 Location: Lower Mainland BC | di_ch_NY56 - 2021-05-23 8:31 AM I'm getting the parts I did wish to get. Big thank you to John Fowlie. Dieter: I will keep the 4 3/8" Ball and Trunion that I have until you get your drive shaft from John at Big M and decide that you don't need mine housing and bits. However, if you do need it, then I will ship it to you (at your expense). But, if you don't decide that you need it, I will offer it to whoever wants to pay for shipping, e.g. CDN$37 to Texas. So please let me know. REFERENCE: http://www.forwardlook.net/forums/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=71485&... | ||
di_ch_NY56 |
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Expert Posts: 1532 Location: ZH, Switzerland | Hi Dave Thanks a lot. I got the message from John and paid the requested amount. This morning I visited the body and paint-shop once again. The owner said, he wanted to give me a surprise... following pictures are some of the collection I got from the owner of the body and paint-shop. Every time my Letter was resting for a natural coring time of the layer - no heat or infrared lamp to enforce the curing time. Happy Restauration! Dieter BTW: asking for August 2021 to be finished... depends on how many regular cars are dropping in. (20210526_182812 three quart rear view drivers side first layer of filler.jpg) (20210526_182822 three quart rear view passenger side first layer of filler.jpg) (20210526_195225 view to inside passenger floor and part trunk floor.jpg) (20210526_195232 view to inside foot well and propeller shaft tunnel.jpg) (20210526_195237 view to the trunk floor.jpg) (20210527_170553 three quart rear view passenger side one more primer layer.jpg) (20210527_170600 three quart rear view drivers side one more primer layer.jpg) (20210528_092131 marker layer all over as I met my Letter.jpg) Attachments ---------------- 20210526_182812 three quart rear view drivers side first layer of filler.jpg (291KB - 264 downloads) 20210526_182822 three quart rear view passenger side first layer of filler.jpg (295KB - 259 downloads) 20210526_195225 view to inside passenger floor and part trunk floor.jpg (157KB - 269 downloads) 20210526_195232 view to inside foot well and propeller shaft tunnel.jpg (171KB - 263 downloads) 20210526_195237 view to the trunk floor.jpg (169KB - 251 downloads) 20210527_170553 three quart rear view passenger side one more primer layer.jpg (254KB - 252 downloads) 20210527_170600 three quart rear view drivers side one more primer layer.jpg (247KB - 252 downloads) 20210528_092131 marker layer all over as I met my Letter.jpg (252KB - 255 downloads) | ||
22mafeja |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 707 Location: Finland | It is going to be a stunning paint job Dieter! | ||
di_ch_NY56 |
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Expert Posts: 1532 Location: ZH, Switzerland | 22mafeja - 2021-05-29 8:06 AM It is going to be a stunning paint job Dieter! Thank you Ralf, it will be a stunning pearl (body wise). Happy Restoring! Dieter | ||
di_ch_NY56 |
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Expert Posts: 1532 Location: ZH, Switzerland | For the steering pump of my Letter I purchased a stock NOS cap moparts # 2120 617. It's too small, it would fall into the filler neck of the P/S pump I got with my Letter. Will see if I got another than stock pump with the belt tensioner. Happy Restoring! Dieter Edited by di_ch_NY56 2021-05-30 10:39 AM | ||
di_ch_NY56 |
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Expert Posts: 1532 Location: ZH, Switzerland | Both front fenders are under work again to level out the last and smallest imperfections. Some work on the body performed as well. Happy Restoring! Dieter BTW: thank you for shipping at John. BTW2: pls do not complain about the plaster. As you can see on the drivers side fender, almost all will be shaved off (pls keep in mind, that - from the factory - a thick layer of filler under the final coat was applied back in the time where these cars were build - not only American, but European cars as well). Edited by di_ch_NY56 2021-06-19 8:21 AM (IMG_8805 front fender drivers side.JPG) (IMG_8806 front fender passenger side.JPG) Attachments ---------------- IMG_8805 front fender drivers side.JPG (320KB - 227 downloads) IMG_8806 front fender passenger side.JPG (437KB - 223 downloads) | ||
Viper Guy |
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Expert Posts: 2007 Location: Branson, MO | di_ch_NY56 - 2021-06-19 7:15 AM (pls keep in mind, that - from the factory - a thick layer of filler under the final coat was applied back in the time where these cars were build - not only American, but European cars as well). I don't think so. | ||
1960fury |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 7510 Location: northern germany | Viper Guy - 2021-06-19 2:28 PM di_ch_NY56 - 2021-06-19 7:15 AM (pls keep in mind, that - from the factory - a thick layer of filler under the final coat was applied back in the time where these cars were build - not only American, but European cars as well). I don't think so. Neither do I. | ||
wizard |
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Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 13069 Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island | For imperfections they used lead filler back then | ||
di_ch_NY56 |
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Expert Posts: 1532 Location: ZH, Switzerland | wizard - 2021-06-19 4:41 PM For imperfections they used lead filler back then Thanks for your clarification. At the pictures of the freshly sand blasted body you might see some lead filler. It doesn't shave off when sand blasting, but I guess most of the imperfection came from the street with the about three or four pre-owner (rear drivers side fender replaced, front drivers side fender replaced (light yellow appeared under the drivers side rear mirror) and ... not to talk about the accident damage at the passenger side front). Happy Restoring! Dieter BTW: I don't know if the model year consultant of the Chrysler 300 Club Internation just looked after the originality or if he discovered all damages at the body as well. From the seller and the Chrysler 300 Club Internation I know, that I got an original 300 F. | ||
di_ch_NY56 |
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Expert Posts: 1532 Location: ZH, Switzerland | Even the passenger side front fender lost most of the plaster. Between the fender wheel bow and the front light bezel there is a little bit more plaster (on primer, not on bare metal!) because of the hammering out of a (most probably) accident-damage. The surface on the roof is grinded down and completly smooth now. Both C-pillar have a really small area where the surface is a little bit lower (marker color slightly shaved) to correct. Sooner, or later, I have to call the engine restorers to ask for the actual state of the engine. Happy Restoring! Dieter | ||
di_ch_NY56 |
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Expert Posts: 1532 Location: ZH, Switzerland | Both front fender got primer again (truck chassis primer quality). The passenger side front fender has a really slight dent (only visible with light/shadow border, almost not while stroking with fingers along the fender) just ahead of the flake type dust. Happy Restoring! Dieter (IMG_8845 drivers side front fender.JPG) (IMG_8846 passeger side front fender.JPG) Attachments ---------------- IMG_8845 drivers side front fender.JPG (315KB - 216 downloads) IMG_8846 passeger side front fender.JPG (267KB - 213 downloads) | ||
di_ch_NY56 |
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Expert Posts: 1532 Location: ZH, Switzerland | Today I got the power steering pump cap Mopar parts # 2127 284. It's the correct cap for the power steering pump I removed from the engine. Furthermore I found a source for the carpet (super plush quality, black, custom molded) and the correct jute sound and heat deadener (plus some square feet flat carpet for the center console I just have to measure, what the surface area is). Happy Restoring! Dieter Edited by di_ch_NY56 2021-07-15 1:31 PM | ||
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