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Unusual problem causing driveline clang. Jump to page : 1 Now viewing page 1 [50 messages per page] | View previous thread :: View next thread |
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ram300 |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 363 | My 300C has lately had a "clang" when engaging drive/reverse from standing start. I'd previously rebuilt the rear end so I starting looking up front.... what I found was a loose park brake hub where it is pressed (?) to the drum. Anyone else had this problem? Can I get away with putting a couple of tack welds to cement them back together without affecting balance? Or should I just source another drum/hub assembly. I'd like to get the car back on the road so if I can repair rather than wait for a replacement... Thanks for all ideas/help. Owen | ||
GregCon |
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Expert Posts: 2524 Location: Houston | I think at least one of those pieces is cast iron so no, you can't really tack weld it. | ||
miquelonbrad |
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Expert Posts: 1737 Location: Hay Lakes, Alberta, Canada | If you can find a place that is able to weld cast iron, you should be able to have it fixed. However, cast iron welding is pricey... | ||
GregCon |
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Expert Posts: 2524 Location: Houston | You can do that if both pieces are cast. But only the drum might be cast. Plus, it wouldn't be tack welding, it would be 'full welding'. Best bet it to fix it the right way. | ||
57chizler |
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Expert Posts: 3778 Location: NorCal | I'd wager both the drum and the hub are cast. | ||
wizard |
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Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 13050 Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island | Attention, the engaging of the reverse gives full pressure to the clutch. Please try to first engage the drive and thereafter R and see if that "solves" the problem. On the cast iron hogs it's Always the best to do; first D then R | ||
jimntempe |
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Expert Posts: 2312 Location: Arizona | How does engaging D first prevent it from putting full pressure to the R clutch pack when you put in in R? | ||
wizard |
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Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 13050 Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island | When you start the car the pressure circuit is practically empty of oil. The R needs full line pressure for to engage and hold. Hence you are giving a "blow" of oil in full pressure to the clutches. Now that you know this, you can actually hear it as a heavy "clunk". Engaging the D first will fill up the pressure circuit with a lower, controlled pressure, then you engage the R and give full pressure to an already pressurized circuit. You will feel the difference, espicially if the trans has internal leakage (engaging D any range and nothing happens until after x seconds or increasing the rpm) Check your manual for pressure references and controlled pressures | ||
57chizler |
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Expert Posts: 3778 Location: NorCal | Placing the shifter in D won't fill the rear servo and rear clutch circuits (used in Reverse) since neither of them are used in Drive however, placing the shifter in "1" will fill the rear servo. | ||
wizard |
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Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 13050 Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island | That's right and it might even be better to use 1 and then R, because then the circuit is even more filled up. The rear clutch is somewhat allergic to heavy pressure chocks as you most probably know. | ||
d500neil |
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Exner Expert 19,174 posts. Neil passed away 18 Sep 2015. You will be missed, Neil! Posts: 19146 Location: bishop, ca | Owen's original problem was a 'clank' sound when the drive gear was engaged. Had that same problem with my car's OEM 3.36 gear set. Rather than try to re-set the differential gears (because of that loud 'clunk', when the the trannie was put into Drive gear, after having backed-up.....got rid of the entire 3rd member assembly and replaced it with its present 2.76 gearset. Replacement gearset: no more problems/clunking. | ||
MOPAR-TO-YA |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 5139 Location: cornpatch county, Southwest IOA | wizard - 2015-03-20 5:59 PM Wiz, you are right. I found that at start up, go to a forward gear before putting in reverse to hold down that big clunk. I have wondered why......................Thanks folks................................MOAttention, the engaging of the reverse gives full pressure to the clutch. Please try to first engage the drive and thereafter R and see if that "solves" the problem. On the cast iron hogs it's Always the best to do; first D then R | ||
ttotired |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 8443 Location: Perth Australia | I recon its the nike thing that does it Wow the spam stuff gets this site a lot now | ||
JT Vincent |
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Expert Posts: 1493 Location: Jamaica Plain, MA | Why not just get a used drum assembly? They are not rare. | ||
LD3 Greg |
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Expert Posts: 1906 Location: Ontario, Canada | MOPAR-TO-YA - 2015-03-24 3:20 AM wizard - 2015-03-20 5:59 PM Wiz, you are right. I found that at start up, go to a forward gear before putting in reverse to hold down that big clunk. I have wondered why......................Thanks folks................................MO Absolutely, and thanks for explaining it. I have been doing that for years. Never knew why it worked until now!!! Greg | ||
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