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howards cam
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60 dart
Posted 2018-10-16 12:24 AM (#571773 - in reply to #564743)
Subject: Re: howards cam



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ok , here's where i'm stuck at . the valves are hittin the pistons . what's the short/less cash fix form all the info above . please don't tell me relieved pistons ----------------------------------------------later
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51coronet
Posted 2018-10-16 12:59 AM (#571778 - in reply to #564743)
Subject: Re: howards cam


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more gasket. How bad are they hitting? More gasket is your easiest solution if it is one at all. Is your cam dialed in correct? Is it just the exhaust side or both? Get a degree wheel and degree your cam if you haven't just to be sure.
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58coupe
Posted 2018-10-16 10:18 AM (#571788 - in reply to #564743)
Subject: Re: howards cam



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There is always the backyard hotrodder approach. Take a couple of valves and weld/braze cutting edges on them and "carefully" relieve the pistons yourself. I believe they even make tools to do this. Of course this may change the balance of your engine so only remove what is needed.
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60 dart
Posted 2018-10-17 2:00 AM (#571845 - in reply to #564743)
Subject: Re: howards cam



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thanks guys . haven't got to cam "specs/card" just yet as i got to re-educate myself to the proper method long forgotten----------------------------------------------------------------later

Edited by 60 dart 2018-10-17 2:01 AM
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CrAzYMoPaRGuY
Posted 2018-10-17 3:09 PM (#571869 - in reply to #564743)
Subject: Re: howards cam


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Location: Locked in my Canadian garage....
OK this now surprises me. .023" down the hole, a flat top piston and the Howards cam listed??? Is your timing chain installed correctly?? Degree the cam? That isn't a huge cam IMO.. Strange
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60 dart
Posted 2018-10-18 2:25 AM (#571890 - in reply to #564743)
Subject: Re: howards cam



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Location: WHEELING,WV.>>>HOME OF WWVA
thanks , yes listed cam , https://www.ebay.com/itm/112124430669?ul_noapp=true . the timing chain and the valve center line checked . intake CL came out at @ 109.25 . for a dummy lifter i took 2 hydraulic ones . cleaned it out ,
added JB weld put the guts back in , including the lock spring and let it setup . could the throw be too much now?? over using a mechanical one . to use a dial on the lobe centerline check . i gutted a hydraulic lifter cleaned
it up filled it @ 1/2 and inserted a 5" piece of old pushrod let setup . right now i can't pull my hair out cause i got little left . i wanted to get this back in before snow and cold but hell no . here's a real cutesy for ya . i have a new
crank ratchet adaptor/timing wheel holder from jegs . after a little while it seemed like it was slipping and it was . when i first got it it didn't really look right with a roll pins on each side sticking out @ 3/16" . i figured it was alright ,
NOT . both pins missed the inside holes and was only biting in the sides of the center piece . had to pull em out , line things up and drive em home . the adaptor from jegs is a 2 piece . i'm really needin some serious help here -----------------------------------later


psssss . does the 516 heads have more shallow valves than the 906's or the same???

Edited by 60 dart 2018-10-18 2:28 AM
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Mopar1
Posted 2018-10-18 10:27 AM (#571901 - in reply to #571890)
Subject: Re: howards cam



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thought I had valves hitting flat top pistons recently, but it turned out I had left 2 crankflange bolts in & they were hitting the engine stand. :-(
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51coronet
Posted 2018-10-18 10:15 PM (#571940 - in reply to #564743)
Subject: Re: howards cam


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Are your pistons coming up past the deck of the block at top dead center? You can get a rough idea of clearance needed with a valve opened to .735 intake and .732 on exhaust from the seat. This should be the max lift each valve will ever see. See if they are going past the deck of the heads at the max lift, then compare that to the piston top dead center height and the gasket height. You will likely need to remove a spring on an intake and exhaust to do this or figure out a way to operate a valve on a bench.
Just throwing ideas out there. Clearance issues are the bane of building an engine. If your pistons are going past the block deck height and the valves are close to the head deck then you will know for sure.
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60 dart
Posted 2018-10-19 4:28 AM (#571955 - in reply to #564743)
Subject: Re: howards cam



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at the top dead center or the cam at centerline . the pistons are in the hole @ .023 . the pistons never go above deck . with a .040 gasket there is no clearance , add another .020 and
i get clearance/free moving piston . is there a way to get around fly cutting the pistons ---------------------------------------------------later
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Powerflite
Posted 2018-10-19 9:49 AM (#571960 - in reply to #564743)
Subject: Re: howards cam



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Different heads?
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58coupe
Posted 2018-10-19 10:21 AM (#571962 - in reply to #564743)
Subject: Re: howards cam



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I believe the 516 & the 906 heads have the same valves and valve angles even if the combustion chamber is shaped differently. That probably won't help with your problem.
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51coronet
Posted 2018-10-19 1:00 PM (#571975 - in reply to #564743)
Subject: Re: howards cam


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Valve relief pistons are the way to go that way you aren't losing so much compression. Yeah more money is the sad part but piece of mind in the end is worth it. Someone mentioned using a valve in the guide as cutter for the relief, this can work if your pistons have enough thickness on the dome. Potentially playing with fire in my opinion but a cheap alternative to buying a set of pistons or pulling them and having them machined. Either way you have a headache to address if you want to maintain as much compression as possible. If you are near a 9 : 1 compression ratio with the extra gasket then it may not be worth screwing with. Keep in mind the slight expansion of metal parts with heat. A thin layer of clay on the piston dome while rotating the crank with head installed can give you an idea of how much clearance you have.
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60 dart
Posted 2018-10-19 4:37 PM (#571990 - in reply to #564743)
Subject: Re: howards cam



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Posts: 8469
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Location: WHEELING,WV.>>>HOME OF WWVA
piston are @ .480 at inside center with being a little convex at that point . at this point i'm guessing i'll need somewhere @ .160 to .180 to get enough play room with .170 being optimum . the old silverlite
i replaced were .350 at center . so at the new forged piston fly cut it would be @ .410 , @ 9.5:1 cpr . . i'm thinkin 410 thickness should be enough meat to control 9.5 cpr???? -------------------------------------------later


just looked this up after my post , # 9 i think answers thickness questions




http://www.enginebuildermag.com/2017/03/10-things-might-not-know-pi...

Edited by 60 dart 2018-10-19 5:31 PM
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60 dart
Posted 2018-11-09 5:01 PM (#573241 - in reply to #564743)
Subject: Re: howards cam



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Location: WHEELING,WV.>>>HOME OF WWVA
haven't done much to the motor but i found the mistake -------------------------------------------------later
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