|The Forward Look Network|
| One attempt at repairing a pot metal horn ring - some comments|
Jump to page : 1
Now viewing page 1 [50 messages per page]
|View previous thread :: View next thread|
|Forward Look Technical Discussions -> Body, Glass, Interior and Trim||Message format|
Location: Lower Mainland BC
|A few weekends ago, I found a 56 Plymouth horn ring that was in decent shape and was very cheap - so I bought it. I know a couple of people with 56 Plymouths or Canadian Plodges that I knew might want it - and I would just give it to them. All I intended to do was to clean it up using AutoSol, the miracle polish, and ship it off. |
While cleaning it, I noticed a small crack where the upper ring met the right side of the cross bar. Like a fool I decided to check how strong the crack connection was. Stupid idea. As I tested it, the ring broke away from the cross-bar. (IF I knew then what I know now, I would have tried to fix the ring with out testing - because it would have been much easier to fix if it wasn't fully broken).
Alas, I was now facing an issue - give up and throw the horn ring away or try to fix it.
I consulted Mr. Google on "Welding" pot-metal and got a hit with "Muggy Weld" Super-Alloy 1:
After watching the various videos including this one:
I ordered their beginner kit and had it delivered to my US mail drop (has to go ground due to the flux that is included in the kit).
I watched the video again and then used masking tape to hold the ring and the cross bar connection together.
My torch was my wife's Creme Brulee butane torch as previously featured in my carpet installation post:
Getting to 350F with that torch only takes a minute or two before you see the flux bubble and turn brown.
My skill at applying the stick solder (Super-Alloy 1) wasn't that good but, in my defense, the flux did not work as I am used to with copper plumbing or electrical soldering, i.e. it didn't really promote the sucking in of the molten solder into the crack. I virtually had to force the solder into the crack.
I did both sides and eventually decided that I should quit. That was a couple of days ago (I got the Muggy Weld on Tuesday).
Today, I decided to clean up my work with a new set of pin files and my trusty tube of AutoSol. Good idea but....
As I am cleaning things up, I guess I put some strain on my less than perfect "weld" and it cracked again - not fully, just partially.
So I decided to try re-"welding". Got out supplies and the torch and started in. What I didn't do, like a fool, was to tape the joint in place with new masking tape (I had removed the old stuff during the joint cleaning process).
If you are thinking ahead, you know what happened: As I re-heated the joint to try to fix the partial break, the complete "weld" let go - because the joint was no longer restrained. I said a few swear words and realized that I had no choice but to start over.
However, starting over meant heating the two parts of the broke joint up until the solder was hot enough to be brushed away using a brass (or fine stainless steel brush). That took few minutes.
When the ring cooled down, I got the two parts into position again and used masking tape to firmly hold the bits together. Then I placed horn ring in my 1982 Black and Decker WorkMate "vise" (at the cross-bar level) added the flux with a Q-tip pushing it down into the cracks and started again. This time, with more experience, I did a better job. I also used the wire brush to remove excess solder while it was still hot. After doing the top side, I did the reverse side (repositioning the ring in the "vice"). Then I checked the front. Much better.
I let it cool and then, with the ring still in the vice, I went at the joint with the needle files (the half round, round side down) and then the AutoSol (BTW - the "burnt" flux comes off with solvent after cooling). I had a hard time stopping with the file. I realized that I didn't want to take all the solder because some of it is working as a reinforcement.
End result is far from perfect. I know that I could try again but I think it is pretty good now for a daily driver (not a show car) - as long as you remember to use the lower horn ring or the left side upper - just not the ride side upper.
Live and learn. Too soon old, too late smart.
56PlymouthHornRing.jpg (155KB - 1 downloads)
56PlymouthHornRing_2.jpg (161KB - 1 downloads)
56PlymouthHornRing_DetailOfTheBreakBeforeFixingWithMuggyWeld.jpg (152KB - 1 downloads)
56PlymouthHornRingAndMuggyWeldSuppliesAndButaneTorch.jpg (225KB - 1 downloads)
56PlymouthHornRingFirstAttempt_front.jpg (116KB - 1 downloads)
56PlymouthHornRingFirstAttempt_back.jpg (125KB - 1 downloads)
56PlymouthHornRingFirstAttempt_ReadyToCleanUp.jpg (212KB - 1 downloads)
56PlymouthHornRingSecondAttempt_AfterCleanUp.jpg (185KB - 1 downloads)
56PlymouthHornRingSecondAttempt_AfterCleanUp_detail.jpg (139KB - 1 downloads)
Location: Newark, Texas (Fort Worth)
|That's a fine job. You saved a that otherwise may have been trashed. Good work! Marc.|
Location: Perth Australia
|Often wondered about real world experience with muggy weld |
|Jump to page : 1 |
Now viewing page 1 [50 messages per page]
|Search this forum|
Printer friendly version
E-mail a link to this thread
|(Delete all cookies set by this site)|