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hp automatic trans
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60 dart
Posted 2020-05-13 2:49 AM (#598176)
Subject: hp automatic trans



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if ones was going to build a 383 motor with dyno'd hp of 425-450 and change from an 833 to automatic , using the correct converter and such
which auto trans would one use . such as TCI , HUGHES , B&M , and jegs to name a few . one that won't totally break the bank----------------------------later
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57chizler
Posted 2020-05-13 1:17 PM (#598205 - in reply to #598176)
Subject: RE: hp automatic trans



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John Cope at Cope Racing Transmissions.

https://www.coperacingtrans.com/
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AceS
Posted 2020-05-14 12:55 PM (#598259 - in reply to #598205)
Subject: RE: hp automatic trans



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They have a good reputation. I used their 727-4 in a race car for awhile.
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51coronet
Posted 2020-05-14 8:09 PM (#598283 - in reply to #598176)
Subject: RE: hp automatic trans


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Any that use good parts in the rebuild. There are only a few kits I saw when looking for a rebuild kit. The knockoff stock replacement junk from china, the ones that use kolene or some red blah blah blah performance clutches and steels and the real stock parts from chrysler.

If they used the good kits which start at about $400 from memory and the last time I looked then you should be good to go. The performance kits replace some of the internal springs and servos with supposedly better ones and better band tension holders etc supposedly better clutches and on. One of the real questions is should you up the clutch count with a bigger drum? I think stock uses 3 clutches and the heavy duty trans behind diesels used 5 for the extra holding power. I did this "upgrade" for my 392 build but havent driven it yet so the verdict is out. I did it because it was cheap to do myself and hey why not?

The biggest thing they dont use is the good stock front band I think that is iron backed and sturdy. They all seem to use a stamped steel backed band which works but is much much easier to bend than the stock unit. If your stocker has plenty of friction material left on it it may be advised to keep it and or reuse it.

So dig in and see what they use to rebuild them. The clutches are some of the more important replacement parts because they are what wear out in auto trans. The rest of the internals seem to handle the abuse well from looking at my trans when I opened it. It was even put together wrong (clutch pack has a directional thing inside I forget it was a long time ago was a retainer or spring of some sort so the gap was way way out of tolerance)

OH I did an overdrive A518 46RH so a 727 will be much easier and uses some of the same parts and should be cheaper cause no OD.

Edited by 51coronet 2020-05-14 8:11 PM
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57chizler
Posted 2020-05-15 1:30 PM (#598320 - in reply to #598283)
Subject: RE: hp automatic trans



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51coronet - 2020-05-14 5:09 PM
The biggest thing they dont use is the good stock front band I think that is iron backed and sturdy. They all seem to use a stamped steel backed band which works but is much much easier to bend than the stock unit.


Two schools of thought on that; the rigid band can deflect and prevent full contact of the lining on the drum...this can often be seen on disassembly where one end (front/back) of the band is burned and the other not. The flex band will distort on application and grab the drum evenly (think Chinese finger puzzle).

To me, the selection of the band lining material is more important than the band design. I've had the best luck with red lining.

Edited by 57chizler 2020-05-15 1:32 PM
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