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CVAN59NY

Posted 2021-04-27 12:12 PM (#611477)
Subject: Electric Choke Connection

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I'm running a holly-style electric carb choke on my 59 New Yorker. This is not a forward look specific question, but I was hoping someone might have some answers for me. I was told to connect the positive wire to a source of 12V power only when the key is on. I was also told that the ignition port in the fuse box or the wiper motor positive would both work for this, but from what I can tell my fuse box does not have an ignition fuse and my wiper motor is not functioning. Where else can I wire the positive from my choke so that it only gets 12V when the key is turned? (I apologize for any mistakes in this post, my knowledge of wiring is very limited).

Thanks, any help is appreciated.

56D500boy

Posted 2021-04-27 12:57 PM (#611479 - in reply to #611477)
Subject: RE: Electric Choke Connection

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.
Your 59 Chrysler seems to still have a stand-alone horn relay that should be mounted on one of the fender liners.

The terminal on the horn relay with the threaded stud is switched power. You could attach a lead to the electric choke there. Use a multimeter on 20VDC to confirm that that terminal is switched 12V.

REFERENCE: http://www.forwardlook.net/forums/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=75311&...

The 59 Chrysler wiring diagram shows the horn relay in the lower left quadrant of the diagram:

Edited by 56D500boy 2021-04-27 1:00 PM

(59ChryslerWiringDiagram.jpg)

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59ChryslerWiringDiagram.jpg (178KB - 203 downloads)

57chizler

Posted 2021-04-27 1:56 PM (#611483 - in reply to #611477)
Subject: RE: Electric Choke Connection

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I always use the blue wire on the ignition coil resistor for an electric choke power source.

56D500boy

Posted 2021-04-27 2:02 PM (#611485 - in reply to #611483)
Subject: RE: Electric Choke Connection

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57chizler - 2021-04-27 10:56 AM
I always use the blue wire on the ignition coil resistor for an electric choke power source.

Good one. The Dark Blue wire from the ignition "coil resistor" (ballast resistor) in the 59 Chrysler wiring diagram comes from the Ignition terminal on the ignition switch and is also connected to the horn relay switched power terminal. So both would work.

LostDeere59

Posted 2021-04-27 4:30 PM (#611486 - in reply to #611477)
Subject: RE: Electric Choke Connection

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While switched ignition is good, it does have the drawback of heating the choke whenever the key is on whether or not the engine is running.

A minor issue, but if you turn the key on and don't start the engine, after a few minutes the choke will be open and the engine may not start.

I'm not sure about older Mopar systems, but normally there is a terminal in the charging system, either at the alternator/generator or regulator - that only has power when the engine is running (the alt/gen is outputting).

This terminal is also commonly used for hour meters . . .

Gregg

56D500boy

Posted 2021-04-27 6:10 PM (#611489 - in reply to #611486)
Subject: RE: Electric Choke Connection

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LostDeere59 - 2021-04-27 1:30 PM
While switched ignition is good, it does have the drawback of heating the choke whenever the key is on whether or not the engine is running.

Yup. That is how an electric choke works. Ignition on RUN = choke is heated. Key on ACC(eries) = choke is not heated.

Edited by 56D500boy 2021-04-27 11:12 PM

1960fury

Posted 2021-04-28 9:59 AM (#611494 - in reply to #611489)
Subject: RE: Electric Choke Connection

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56D500boy - 2021-04-27 6:10 PM

LostDeere59 - 2021-04-27 1:30 PM
While switched ignition is good, it does have the drawback of heating the choke whenever the key is on whether or not the engine is running.

Yup. That is how an electric choke works. Ignition on RUN = choke is heated. Key on ACC(eries) = choke is not heated.

:)

Yes, and since you are not supposed to leave the ignition on when the engine is not running, there is no problem. What John (chizler) said, this is how I did it before I changed the electric choke to a divorced OE-style choke heated by the heat riser/exhaust. With the Holley E-Choke this is an easy conversion.

Edited by 1960fury 2021-04-28 10:00 AM

56D500boy

Posted 2021-04-28 10:56 AM (#611495 - in reply to #611494)
Subject: RE: Electric Choke Connection

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1960fury - 2021-04-28 6:59 AM
Yes, and since you are not supposed to leave the ignition on when the engine is not running, there is no problem.

Umm....do you want to rethink that statement Sid?

I find that my car runs better with the key in the RUN position (= IGN) once it is started and I have released the key from START.

1960fury

Posted 2021-04-28 4:58 PM (#611504 - in reply to #611495)
Subject: RE: Electric Choke Connection

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56D500boy - 2021-04-28 10:56 AM

1960fury - 2021-04-28 6:59 AM
Yes, and since you are not supposed to leave the ignition on when the engine is not running, there is no problem.

Umm....do you want to rethink that statement Sid?

I find that my car runs better with the key in the RUN position (= IGN) once it is started and I have released the key from START.

Hu? again, you are not supposed to leave the ignition on (key in run position) with the engine NOT running. Why should I rethink that?

LostDeere59

Posted 2021-04-29 4:28 PM (#611553 - in reply to #611504)
Subject: RE: Electric Choke Connection

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My point was that even though your "not supposed to" it does happen. Using a charging feed just eliminates the potential problem.

Plus, if the choke heater shorts on an ignition feed you probably end up walking. On the charging feed you may lose charging, but the car will still run.

Of course simply tapping a switched ignition feed is easier since everybody thinks of that . . .

Gregg

1960fury

Posted 2021-04-29 4:48 PM (#611555 - in reply to #611494)
Subject: RE: Electric Choke Connection

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1960fury - 2021-04-28 9:59 AM

56D500boy - 2021-04-27 6:10 PM

LostDeere59 - 2021-04-27 1:30 PM
While switched ignition is good, it does have the drawback of heating the choke whenever the key is on whether or not the engine is running.

Yup. That is how an electric choke works. Ignition on RUN = choke is heated. Key on ACC(eries) = choke is not heated.

:)

While I had the ram air box off today, I snapped a photo. It is the Holley E-choke with an older non-e-choke cover with a hole drilled in the center. This works very well and never failed in 30+ years, does not draw any current and you got one electrical part to fail/wire less in your engine compartment.

(E to Manual choke.jpg)

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E to Manual choke.jpg (95KB - 201 downloads)

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