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New BBD Carb Linkage Issue Jump to page : 1 Now viewing page 1 [50 messages per page] | View previous thread :: View next thread |
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SaratogaFan |
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Veteran Posts: 149 Location: Iowa | I have a 1957 Belvedere with a Poly 301. I have had a lot of trouble with the original Carter 2 barrel carb. I finally ordered a new one and installed it. It looked pretty well made for something from China and it bolted on easy. After a few adjustments the car ran much better than before and idled the best I had ever heard it. BUT I have a big problem with the accelerator linkage. The current set up had a rod that PUSHED the connector arm on the old carb and the new carb needs to be PULLED toward the firewall. I read that later 318s used a cable system. I attached photos. Any suggestions on how to make this work? Is there an adaptor to convert the rods forward motion into a pull back? I have to believe I am not the first one to run into this. (Orginal BBD carb and linkage2.JPG) (New BBD carb2.JPG) Attachments ---------------- Orginal BBD carb and linkage2.JPG (41KB - 90 downloads) New BBD carb2.JPG (42KB - 93 downloads) | ||
mstrug |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 6500 Location: Newark, Texas (Fort Worth) | Push to pull? If the linkage was above the center line by the same amount; wouldn't that work? Or 'Z' it. Edited by mstrug 2022-04-06 6:31 PM (pushpull1.gif) Attachments ---------------- pushpull1.gif (2KB - 98 downloads) | ||
mstrug |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 6500 Location: Newark, Texas (Fort Worth) | https://technologystudent.com/cams/link1.htm | ||
mstrug |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 6500 Location: Newark, Texas (Fort Worth) | http://www-mdp.eng.cam.ac.uk/web/library/enginfo/cookbook/machine/l... | ||
Powerflite |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 9672 Location: So. Cal | Move the connection point to below the rotational center like it was on the original carb. It might require welding a small tab to the linkage on the carb. That's what I have done in the past. | ||
ronbo97 |
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Expert Posts: 4042 Location: Connecticut | WHY didn't you just rebuild the original ? This is what happens when you buy aftermarket crap. You end up with unexpected consequences. There will be more. If you don't have the skills to rebuild the original carb, send it to Daytona Carburetor. They will do an excellent job using modern gasket material. Ron | ||
SaratogaFan |
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Veteran Posts: 149 Location: Iowa | Thanks Powerflite. I will check into that. I am surprised this isn't a more common problem. | ||
SaratogaFan |
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Veteran Posts: 149 Location: Iowa | Fair ronbo. I did actually attempt to rebuild the original myself and it worked for about a month before it started shooting fuel out the top again. I may yet have it professionally redone in the future. Thanks for the plug for Daytona. I must admit the new ones did appear as though it should be an easy fix for less then $100. | ||
59Firedome |
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Member Posts: 46 Location: Gooding, ID | I had the same problem swapping my original BBD for my '59 Firedome 383 to a newer rebuild Chrysler BBD. This is how you do it, bolt a bracket on to the new carb but make sure you connect the throttle linkage below the pivot point. Bring it down as far as you can towards the intake manifold, and you're all set. No welding needed, just drill hole in the bracket and off you go (51984012577_f278fef7d6_c.jpg) Attachments ---------------- 51984012577_f278fef7d6_c.jpg (129KB - 89 downloads) | ||
59Firedome |
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Member Posts: 46 Location: Gooding, ID | Also, you might have to adjust the kickdown linkage afterwards as the distance might change to the carb, it did in my case, good luck! | ||
local2Ed |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 580 | I was having trouble adjusting a Stromberg WW 2 barrel carb and was having a low vacuum reading even after I put a rebuild kit in it. I put a fitting and rubber hose where you hook up the vacuum advance, bought a cheap cigar and blew smoke into the carb while it was on the engine. I showed vacuum leaks around the throttle shafts and in between the three bodies of the carb. On Mikes Carburetor website there is a link to someone who can install new bushings for the throttle shafts with an explanation of why you need the longer bushings. I then took the carb bodies, colored the mating surfaces with a black sharpie and with a piece of fine emery cloth taped to a flat surface, lightly sanded the mating surfaces until there was no high spots. I then put the carb back together using the same parts that were new when I installed them 2 weeks earlier and was able to adjust the carb and get an excellent vacuum reading. | ||
Powerflite |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 9672 Location: So. Cal | Nice, it works better with a cuban though. An old mechanic showed me a trick of using un-lit acetylene to blow around the carb. When you come near a vacuum leak, the idle speed increases from the inflow of acetylene. Using a thick, fine toothed file is a good method to assure flatness. But that's the benefit of a new manufactured carb. You don't have all the wear on the shafts to worry about - yet. | ||
local2Ed |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 580 | Powerflite - 2022-04-07 1:24 PM Nice, it works better with a cuban though. An old mechanic showed me a trick of using un-lit acetylene to blow around the carb. When you come near a vacuum leak, the idle speed increases from the inflow of acetylene. Using a thick, fine toothed file is a good method to assure flatness. But that's the benefit of a new manufactured carb. You don't have all the wear on the shafts to worry about - yet. Thinking I only had a throttle shaft leak I used a unlit propane torch and was getting idle speed increases around the whole carb more or less. Not thinking I had leaks between the carb bodies, I felt the fan blades were blowing the propane around and being sucked down the throat of the carb increasing the idle. The nice thing about the smoke test is you see exactly where the smoke is coming from without the engine running. Really didn't have to exhale harder than normal and the smoke was showing where the leaks were. Edited by local2Ed 2022-04-07 1:58 PM | ||
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