The prototypes went pretty well for an initial effort, but there are a lot of refinements to be done!  The 3-D printing process is amazing, but I need a much sharper print.  Painting is the easiest part, but I think I need to incorporate metallic foil to make it better.  The thick urethane coat was a bubbly, uneven failure.  I need a better substitue, maybe a resin.

(Prototype 3 reduced.jpg)

(Prototype 4 reduced.jpg)

(Prototype 5 reduced.jpg)

(Prototype 6 reduced.jpg)

Prototype 3 reduced.jpg (246KB - 88 downloads)

Prototype 4 reduced.jpg (244KB - 84 downloads)

Prototype 5 reduced.jpg (240KB - 85 downloads)

Prototype 6 reduced.jpg (231KB - 81 downloads)

Still working on this project.  I was able to order a set of the "wheelcover center emblems that never were" from Xometry and they printed in stereolithography with Accrua xtreme grey material - and the quality was pretty good.  I think the cost was about $160.  Painting them was a bit of a challenge, but I think they are decent enough to replace the Chrysler centers that are in there now.  They are not exquisite quality on close inspection, but I think they will be decent from a distance of just a couple of feet away.

(01 first coat red.jpg)

(02 second coat white and black.jpg)

(03 third coat light gold.jpg)

(04 fourth coat yellow.jpg)

(05 final clear coat.jpg)

01 first coat red.jpg (85KB - 32 downloads)

02 second coat white and black.jpg (188KB - 33 downloads)

03 third coat light gold.jpg (190KB - 30 downloads)

04 fourth coat yellow.jpg (243KB - 38 downloads)

05 final clear coat.jpg (111KB - 29 downloads)

Mike, put the red paint at least, must be quite liquid and flow. Before do paint the emblems somewhat "over" the border.

Then the color separation will become very accurate, as I did with some knight emblems when golden coating. And use paint which is not aggressive to the resin.

Good Luck!  - SERGE -  

Thanks, Serge!

Working on the Adventurer emblems now.  So far, they have been easier to paint.  I started with gold and then masked off the gold to apply the silver background.  I tried to mask off the silver and gold to apply the black, but ended up having to hand paint the black with gloss enamel.  Still need to apply the clear-coat.

(Adventurer Center Emblems reduced.jpg)

Adventurer Center Emblems reduced.jpg (237KB - 7 downloads)

Final products:

(Custom Center Cap set 02.jpg)

(Stock Set 02.jpg)

(Stock Set 03.jpg)

Custom Center Cap set 02.jpg (250KB - 6 downloads)

Stock Set 02.jpg (240KB - 6 downloads)

Stock Set 03.jpg (235KB - 4 downloads)

Thanks, Nathan!  I'm definitely going with the red centers for now.  I repainted the '57 wheelcover centers to gold to get a bit closer to the real thing.

Not too shabby for "home made" - what do the hipsters call it?  Bespoke! 

Before applying the clear-coat I would do small corrections under the microscope. Small improvements make big effect, as shown. Left Original - right corrected. - SERGE -

(Adventurer Center Emblems reduced corrected.jpg)

Adventurer Center Emblems reduced corrected.jpg (264KB - 1 downloads)

Thanks, Serge - that's exactly what I did before applying the clear coat.  I think they turned out pretty well.  I also made some improvements to the CAD models just in case I ever print them again.  One of the "improvements" was chamfering the outer circle lip to make the lip less evident on both models.

Another way, Mike, to get sharp borders is to do it by multiparts: the white base and the golden inlet separate. Design them with centered cavities to snap / glue them together after painted. I even would do three parts. 

Then the base can be used for many other layouts, having already the corresponding color (white).

If you send your design to sermey@bluewin.ch, then I will get the correct dimensions and can propose you my idea. - SERGE -   ;)

email sent!  Thanks Serge!

Yeah, I guess you could make the backing flat and then, if you could do one piece for the center bird and shield, you could have it printed in metal and plated.  That would look great.  As one piece in Acura plastic medium cut in sterolithiography, it is about $165 for four through Xometry.  To print the same piece in aluminum with DMLS printing, it is $910 for four.  I think you would be adding those two parts together to be almost $1100 for a set of four.  Can aluminum be gold annodized? The only other choice through Xometry is stainless steel.  That pumps it up another $500.

As you can see, it starts to get pretty expensive.  The law of diminishing returns kicks in somewhere here.

With the Fireflite emblem, it would be five parts.  If the same costs are assumed, it is automatically cost prohibitive.

Superpose and combine all parts to be printed "all-in-one". Simulate the printing process in the computer with a slice program.

Then, for $200 up many useful 3D-Printers are available (Prusa, Creality, Anycubic, Easythreed, Halot, Elegoo, Malyan, AnkerMake, GeeeTech, Bambu).

A time ago I 3D-printed successfully small parts for Sven (wizard) with a Prusa.

But first you need a perfect 3D-Model, the various parts designed for self-positioning when assembling.

On the other hand, what you did until now is near perfect. Keep-up positive and don't give up, Mike. It’s a fascinating hobby! - SERGE –

https://www.3djake.ch/de-CH/3d-drucker-und-mehr/3d-drucker

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Some Low-Cost 3D-Printers.jpg (207KB - 1 downloads)

Gee, at those prices, getting my own printer seems like the way to go.