Wise Old Village Idiot
Posts: 3591
Location: Dellslow, West ("By God") Virginia ! | Neil, your two statements,,,,,,, are true,,,,,. in a way. They are true, but, lack any scientific merit. But, believe it or not, there is MORE TRUTH to a he sez-she sez, than to a scientific equation!
Now this is long winded, because I must explain in detail.
The raising of the inside rear wheel in a turn ,,,, is true, but, there are circumstances, that you are leaving out.
OK, from the beginning.
A vehicle such as these, leave the factory with COMFORTABLE RIDE designed! Notice when the performance cars were introduced, more spring leaves, bigger diameter bars, everything was stiffer. The ratio of 'family ride' vs 'performance ride' is staggering. Which is more popular. What sells the more vehicles? What is the bottom line? Grocery getters, or 300's/D-500's/etc?
The misconception of getting a 'family/comfortable ride' vehicle, (99.9%) installing a hi-performance drive train, and expecting the vehicle to have performance handling characteristics, doesn't work.
The EASIEST/CHEAPEST suspension performance upgrade, is simply, stiffer shocks, and front AND rear swaybars!
The CORRECT way, is a complete tubular A-arm, Polyurethane busining, independent suspension,,,, on and on, and on, until you have a 'Indy car, all out racing suspension, that will out perform any Viper/Corvette/Sportscar, etc. At a cost of a umpteengazzion $$.
THAT type of suspension, in the name of correct handling, is like killing a fly with a shotgun!
How far do you, and your pockets, want to go?!
Ok a happy medium. Some 'expect' 50 year old suspension design, with a simple set of radial tires to have better handling. It don't work like that.
OK Neil, lets take your '57. Lets say it came from the factory with NO front swaybar. You have a COMPLETE OEM re-built suspension!
You got those DB radial tires. They handle better than the OEM Bias. Meaning, now you can go into a certain turn at a faster speed than with the biased. (NOW I WANT YOU TO KEEP FOLLOWING ME HERE! Don't suddenly go off on one of yer tangents. Read ALL the way to the bottom!)
You think, mmmmmm,,,,,, if I now install a OEM front swaybar,,,,,,,, . MORE, IMPROVED handling! That same turn can now be taken at a higher speed. Here is where the misconception comes in. The "bigger is better" theory.
You now get rid of the soft OEM A-arm, OEM swaybar bushings, for stiffer, less give, urethane bushings. MORE improved handling! More speed into that same turn radius.
OEM rubber swaybar bushings have a built in, 2" give ratio. The vehicle gives 2" before the rubber starts to RE-act. How many rubber bushings are on the OEM framed MoPar swaybar's More than 6" of give. BUT, an improvement over nothing at all.
You now swap out the urethane bushings for the all out, POLY-urethane bushings! Better handling, able to get more speed into that same turn.
Now, you swap out the OEM diameter front swaybar for a stiffer, bigger, aftermarket diameter,,,,,,,,, less # of OEM bushings. Better handling, MORE speed into that same turn!
I'm going to stop here, for that is about as far as one can go with improvements to stock suspension.
OK, remember the part where I said, "Follow me"
You have improved the handling on your '57 so much now, that you are able to negotiate a certain radius/bank turn a considerable speed improvement!
What does all that extra speed now do to your existing suspension? Here is where it's gets scary. You have improved, up-graded, only part of the suspension. NOT ALL of it.
The faster you go into the same turn, more weight/stress is now put on the OUTSIDE, FRONT, suspension! From the tire into the frame, and everything in between.
The faster you can go, the more weight is transferred on that outside front, untill two things will happen. Something on the outside front will break, or the INSIDE REAR TIRE will lift off the ground!
There are TWO easy, feasible solutions. Slow down, or get the rear planted, so it don't lift. One thing will do that. (It's NOT stiffer rear springs. The ONLY thing stiffer rear springs will do is,,,,,, carry more downward weight ,or haul more of a load.) A REAR SWAYBAR!!!! PERIOD!!! Try it Neil. IT WORKS!!!!
Now. This suspension improvements/upgrades, is like a drug, the more one feels the improvements the more you want, the faster you can now safely negotiate a turn! As I said how far do you want to go?
A REAR swaybar in CONJUNCTION with stiffer rear springs,,,,, notice the keyword is "CONJUNCTION WITH", will now keep the rear from rising up!!
What is the best/cheapest/easiest rear swaybar upgrade? A 1" dia, '80-'96, full sized, Bronco rear bar, will ALMOST, BOLT ON to the framed MoPars! Either, an "L" bracket must be welded on the Mope frame, or an EXISTING hole in the frame enlarged, and a 3/4" OD, 1/2" ID piece of pipe welded in that hole so the boxed frame won't collapse when the Bronco link bolt mount is tightened down.
You can get those Bronco bar at you favorite U-pullit yard for $20 or so.
Now, if you want to go to Addico, PST, or a number of other aftermarket places and pay a couple of hundred dollars for a rear bar kit, it's up to you.
The ONLY upgrade needed to the Bronco bar is a urethane bushing kit.
Guy on here several yeas ago had a Red '58 Fury, did a upgrade aftermarket front bar kit, and a Bronco rear bar. AND could beat/keep up, with the "Jelly-bean" Impala SS's in the auto cross!
So, your statement Neil, of the rear wheel rising off the ground in a turn, is NOT from installing a rear bar. It's TOO much up-grade to the front and nothing to the rear!
I hope this explained it to you ,where you can now understand. If not. Get this booklet. "Handling. What it is, and how to get it" Addico puts it out. A WEALTH OF INFORMATION!!!!
Now, the synthetic oil. Again, he sez, she sez. It's gotta be good or there would be so many 'factory fills' recommendations!
Will "I" run any synthetics? HELL NO!!!! The ONLY way I will use a synthetic is if it's given to me. Then I'll dump in on my dirt road to keep the dust down. I have had NOTHING but bad luck with Synthetic's! Leak, NOT properly lubricate, etc.
Harley recommends Synthetic in the Twin Cams. I changed my Trans fill from semi-synthetic to full H-D synthetic. Supposed to be easier shifting, cooler running temps. Went out riding one night, rear started wobbling. Thought I had a rear flat. Here the fully synthetic leaked past the seal and got over the rear tire.
Have Amsoil in wifeys' Bronco. Bearings went out.
Ask just about ALL of the owner operators around here. Synthetic is a Communist plot against the US! LOL 99% use Lucas with regular dino, in the big trucks.
Mo/Corncob has a "Pete" and uses synthetics. I won't!
So I AGREE with your synthetic oil in an older vehicle statmemt. But, my statements against synthetics is ONLY by experience. NOT any scientific merit. Only opnion! |