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Member
Posts: 20
| I'm bringing my car to a mechanic for service and i mentioned an occasional bogging down in power which I thought was related to fuel and/or the carb.
He immediately recommended a conversion from points to an electronic ignition.
Thoughts? Pros/cons?
TIA! |
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Expert
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Location: N.W. Fla. | To do that you could use a Pertronix, believe there's 1 for your car, or you can cut & extend the dizzy shaft on an LA dizzy. The only problem would be if you have to replace it out on the road. Best bet is You can get from Hot Heads a new int. shaft that is elongated to reach the LA dizzy. https://www.hothemiheads.com/ignition_system/intermediate_shaft_360S... |
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Expert
Posts: 4042
Location: Connecticut | There is no need to convert to Petronix. Your mechanic has no clue. It's his job to properly diagnose and solve the problem. That's what you're paying him for. It sounds like a carburetor issue. Has your WCFB been rebuilt recently ? Please find a different mechanic. Ron |
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Expert 5K+
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Location: So. Cal | I use the longer intermediate shaft from hotheads and then use an electronic distributor with a GM HEI module that I mount to the bottom of the distributor. I sell a bracket to do that. It works really well, and allows you to run a very strong coil.
http://www.designed2drive.com
If you really want to stick with points, then be sure to use a dual point distributor. If your car is a New Yorker or Imperial, then you should already have one. If your car is a Windsor, then you will have single points. I believe the Pertronix will only work with the dual point distributor as well. |
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Member
Posts: 20
| Carb was rebuilt about 4 years ago. It ran fine all summer and in the last few rides I've experienced vapor lock once and yesterday the hesitation/bogging on my second drive. I tried some STP 5 in 1 cleaner - so we'll see if it's that.
The mechanic didn't say why he suggested the electric conversion. Just "it runs better" - I think the car runs great aside from this issue, so I'm trying to understand the benefits. |
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Expert 5K+
Posts: 9905
Location: Lower Mainland BC | .
I am running a Pertronix conversion in my 56 Dodge D500 dual point distributor for 5 or 6 years and I am liking it.
One of the reasons that I went Pertronix was it eliminated issues with point gaps and condenser failures. The Pertronix is basically install it and forget it (IT WORKS)
The unexpected upside for me was because of the kit that I selected, I was able to buy a Pertronix 40,000 V coil that did NOT need a ballast resistor (not needed on 6 V systems but normally needed on 12V systems).
This means that I get a hotter spark which means the engine lights off quicker on start.
That has been my experience.
All that said, there are those (not me) who have had Pertronix conversions fail (I am not sure why). I also have a spare New Old Stock dual point distributor that is loaded with new points and condenser. *IF* I was to go on a major road trip, that distributor would come along for the ride (in the trunk). 
Just my 2 cents.
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Expert
Posts: 4042
Location: Connecticut | A1gio2 - 2023-10-16 2:23 PM Carb was rebuilt about 4 years ago. It ran fine all summer and in the last few rides I've experienced vapor lock once and yesterday the hesitation/bogging on my second drive. I tried some STP 5 in 1 cleaner - so we'll see if it's that. The mechanic didn't say why he suggested the electric conversion. Just "it runs better" - I think the car runs great aside from this issue, so I'm trying to understand the benefits. The benefit is that it will fatten his wallet.He will also try to convince you to go to an electric fuel pump, high energy coil and other nonsense. You need a new mechanic. Or better yet, learn to do this stuff yourself. Read the shop manual. Join one or more Forward Look groups on facebook, ask questions. Vapor lock: unless your fuel line is resting on the exhaust manifold, then it is not vapor lock. STP: Don't dump any Magic-in-a-Can garbage into your engine. Ever. It will not solve your problem. Ron |
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Member
Posts: 20
| ronbo97 - 2023-10-16 3:12 PM
A1gio2 - 2023-10-16 2:23 PM Carb was rebuilt about 4 years ago. It ran fine all summer and in the last few rides I've experienced vapor lock once and yesterday the hesitation/bogging on my second drive. I tried some STP 5 in 1 cleaner - so we'll see if it's that. The mechanic didn't say why he suggested the electric conversion. Just "it runs better" - I think the car runs great aside from this issue, so I'm trying to understand the benefits. The benefit is that it will fatten his wallet.He will also try to convince you to go to an electric fuel pump, high energy coil and other nonsense. You need a new mechanic. Or better yet, learn to do this stuff yourself. Read the shop manual. Join one or more Forward Look groups on facebook, ask questions. Vapor lock: unless your fuel line is resting on the exhaust manifold, then it is not vapor lock. STP: Don't dump any Magic-in-a-Can garbage into your engine. Ever. It will not solve your problem. Ron
I've never met this guy, was referred and he has good reviews with a lot of classics lined up outside.
I only assumed vapor lock because the small glass filter under the carb was not filling with gas when pumping the gas pedal after a 'hot start'. I had to open the hood and wait about 20 mins then the fuel was flowing once again. This actually happened twice after filling the gas tank...hmm. |
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Expert
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Location: Chestertown, NY ( near Lake George) | Pertronix failures can sometimes be attributed to the use of non resistor plug wires, this can damage the module, due to rfi. |
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Expert
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Location: Connecticut | If the glass bowl is empty, then fuel is not getting up the line. This could be caused by a pinhole or rusted out portion of the fuel line, a fuel pump in need of a rebuild, or a clog in the fuel line. Ron |
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Expert
Posts: 3034
Location: N.W. Fla. | Shep - 2023-10-16 2:55 PM
Pertronix failures can sometimes be attributed to the use of non resistor plug wires, this can damage the module, due to rfi. I ran solid copper wire with a Pertronics, apparently you can't do that with a Pertronics II. |
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Expert
Posts: 3034
Location: N.W. Fla. | On a 331 H I built in the 90s I used a HH squeeze plate W/O problems. My current 331 H built in /08/09 started crapping out at red lights in the Summer, adding a phenolic plate above the HH squeeze plate solved the problem. |
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Expert
Posts: 3398
Location: Chestertown, NY ( near Lake George) | Correct, have had a few failures on different cars in the shop, all had solid wires. Owners didn't read the warning in the instructions. |
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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 507
Location: Invermere B.C. Canada - Rocky Mountains | Well, there you go. From what I read here I think ; "All cars of all makes manufactured in North America since 1974 should be immediately be recalled and have points installed."  |
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Expert
Posts: 3034
Location: N.W. Fla. | Old Ray - 2023-10-17 7:28 PM
Well, there you go. From what I read here I think ; "All cars of all makes manufactured in North America since 1974 should be immediately be recalled and have points installed." |
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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 528
Location: Medford Oregon | On my first 55 Chrysler Windsor I had a similar problem with vapor lock. The left side exhaust goes around the front of the engine with the fuel pump on the left front of the engine also. We tried several things to fix it, finally installing an electric fuel pump with a shutoff switch. Though that worked to get us going when hot, the final solution was to run ethanol free gas. I never used the electric pump after that.
Subjectively the car felt like it had more power.
I run my current 55 Chrysler Windsor only gets gas with ethanol if good gas is unavailable. |
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Expert
Posts: 3034
Location: N.W. Fla. | 55BlueHeron - 2023-10-18 6:33 PM
the final solution was to run ethanol free gas.
Subjectively the car felt like it had more power.
You lose about 25% in MPG in flex fuel cars running E-85 vs E-10, so I'm guessing E-100 would have 30-35 or so % less energy than E-0. |
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Convert to Electronic Ignition in a '55 Chryler?
