Member
Posts: 41
Location: Langley BC Canada | OK time to resurrect an old thread. It's been almost 3 years now, and I'm still fighting belt squeal / snapping.
I have changed the PS pump. and modified the brackets to get the pulley now 100% true. I have now replaced the water pump (which admittedly did feel a bit janky)
I'm still convinced part of the issue (maybe all of it) is the newer style bottom cog belts (Dayco) just don't like the older Chrysler pulleys. I have tried online, and all the local parts houses Lordco, Napa (side note will never enter that building again after their crap customer service), Alder Auto, t+t.
There must be a supplier somewhere for smooth bottom belts, or I must be missing something. Pulleys are clear of debris, and not glazed.
Getting tired of not being able to travel over 100KM without belt changes.
1958 Chrysler Windsor, 354 Poly engine.
Julian |
Veteran
Posts: 146
Location: Denver, Colorado, USA | Landyacht67 - 2024-03-16 6:38 PM OK time to resurrect an old thread. It's been almost 3 years now, and I'm still fighting belt squeal / snapping. I have changed the PS pump. and modified the brackets to get the pulley now 100% true. I have now replaced the water pump (which admittedly did feel a bit janky) I'm still convinced part of the issue (maybe all of it) is the newer style bottom cog belts (Dayco) just don't like the older Chrysler pulleys. I have tried online, and all the local parts houses Lordco, Napa (side note will never enter that building again after their crap customer service), Alder Auto, t+t. There must be a supplier somewhere for smooth bottom belts, or I must be missing something. Pulleys are clear of debris, and not glazed. Getting tired of not being able to travel over 100KM without belt changes. 1958 Chrysler Windsor, 354 Poly engine. Julian
At what torque or deflection are you setting the belt? Have you confirmed with a pressure test gauge that both the steering box and pump are functioning properly and within spec? A faulty box can sometimes cause excessive dead-heading in the pump leading to the pulley dragging and belt slippage/wear. This issue can happen in a pulsing manner where the pump may not necessarily sound and feel like it is dead-heading, although the steering will feel firmer. For what it's worth, I don't have slipping or wear issues with the Goodyear 1500 series 15/32" notched V-groove belts. If you are set on a solid belt, you might try searching industrial belt catalogs or speaking to an industrial parts supplier (farm, construction, manufacturing, etc.). Goodyear makes a few series of industrial poly cord solid belts. Off the top of my head, I know their 1/2" A series (e.g. A24) that I use on my metal lathe, drill press, table saw, and other equipment. I've never used one in an automotive application and can't speak for how well they work and last around engine heat cycles, however.
Edited by PolyJ 2024-03-17 12:59 PM
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Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+
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Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island | If the steering gear has too tight adjustment then the pump will be overloaded. This normally shows by puking out hydraulic fliud through the vent hole in the cap. Also, the pump will be very hot.
This causes the belt to slip.
The steering gear must only be adjusted with the front wheels straight forward, because the gear is grinded with the lesser free play in that position.
If the steering gear is adjusted with the front wheels turned, then the steering gear will be binding in the center position and close to center position.
This is a common mistake made on the FL cars. There's too much free play in the steering wheel, hence many adjust the steering gear in the wrong position or just too tight. The problem is next to always that the steering shaft rubber insulator is worn or cut off by dry steering (engine not running).
Adjust the steering gear according instructions in the FSM as the first step.... |
PS belt snapping and squealing
