I replaced the entire brake system on the 1973. Here's what I did" Booster: 3 years ago - few miles since. Brakes worked well and were aggressive when you stomped on them. I replaced the following, mainly to get the 35 year old rubber soft hoses and seals off of the car, and a new, true rotor onto it: New: Calipers & Pads Wheel cylinders & shoes Master cylinder Soft lines: 2F 1R Turned both rotors Turned both drums NOS proportioning valve ================= FYI, the 1970-73 Rotors are apparently NLA - I had to source used ones. ================= So: The car now resists stoping. It stops, but requires almost double the pedal pressure and won't lock the wheels unless both feet are on the pedal and really jamming on it, and even then it's not that good a response. All 4 corners bleed OK, and none seem to be restricted, as I'd suspect that a crimped line would cause. Also: when the brake is applied, the pedal feels better in the top 40% of the swing until it seems to "hit" something and gets stiffer - the braking action seems to have two stages. I paid someone (I can't believe that I did that) to bleed and check. They said that the rear brakes are coming on first and that's what I'm feeling. I like the place, but the only mechanic that does work on older cars (and I like him very much) is Vietnamese, and is consequently a guy that is a little under 5 feet tall and he's uncomfortable driving the car and does not seem to be capable of testing it and providing a better answer than that the rear brakes are engaging first and I'm riding on the drums and not the discs. Before I go hunting for a defective/incorrect part in the system, which I did with the NOS, $300 proportioning valve, and start tracing every metal line in the car's chassis, is there anything else that I could be missing? I feel silly for asking, because every stinking part is new besides the brake pedal, but maybe someone has something in their past that might help? Again - the brake booster is newer, worked great before I laid a wrench to everything else, and when I kill the engine, I can feel the vacuum disappear, although it seems like perhaps the difference is less than I get on the two 1970's that I drove for comparison yesterday. Thoughts? I'm sorta thinking booster, but that's a guess and I'm reluctant to blame it because it's relatively new and has good lines to it. Kenyon Wills ----------------- http://www.imperialclub.com ----------------- This message was sent to you by the Imperial Mailing List. Please reply to mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx and your response will be shared with everyone. Private messages (and attachments) for the Administrators should be sent to webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx To UN-SUBSCRIBE, go to http://imperialclub.com/unsubscribe.htm