-------------- Original message --------------
From: Kenyon Wills <imperialist1960@xxxxxxxxx>
> I replaced the entire brake system on the 1973.
>
> Here's what I did"
>
> Booster: 3 years ago - few miles since.
>
> Brakes worked well and were aggressive when you
> stomped on them.
>
> I replaced the following, mainly to get the 35 year
> old rubber soft hoses and seals off of the car, and a
> new, true rotor onto it:
>
>
> New:
>
> Calipers & Pads
> Wheel cylinders & shoes
> Master cylinder
> Soft lines: 2F 1R
> Turned both rotors
> Turned both drums
> NOS proportioning valve
>
> =================
> FYI, the 1970-73 Rotors are apparently NLA - I had to
> source used ones.
> ======= ==========
>
> So:
>
> The car now resists stoping. It stops, but requires
> almost double the pedal pressure and won't lock the
> wheels unless both feet are on the pedal and really
> jamming on it, and even then it's not that good a
> response.
>
> All 4 corners bleed OK, and none seem to be
> restricted, as I'd suspect that a crimped line would
> cause.
>
> Also: when the brake is applied, the pedal feels
> better in the top 40% of the swing until it seems to
> "hit" something and gets stiffer - the braking action
> seems to have two stages. I paid someone (I can't
> believe that I did that) to bleed and check. They
> said that the rear brakes are coming on first and
> that's what I'm feeling. I like the place, but the
> only mechanic that does work on older cars (and I like
> him very much) is Vietnamese, and is consequently a
> guy that is a little under 5 feet tall and he's
> uncomfortable driving the car and does not seem to be
> capable of testing it and providing a better answer
> than that the rear brakes are engaging first and I'm
> riding on the drums and not the discs.
>
> Before I go hunting for a defective/incorrect part in
> the system, which I did with the NOS, $300
> proportioning valve, and start tracing every metal
> line in the car's chassis, is there anything else that
> I could be missing?
>
> I feel silly for asking, because every stinking part
> is new besides the brake pedal, but maybe someone has
> something in their past that might help?
>
> Again - the brake booster is newer, worked great
> before I laid a wrench to everything else, and when I
> kill the engine, I can feel the vacuum disappear,
> although it seems like perhaps the difference is less
> than I get on the two 1970's that I drove for
> comparison yesterday.
>
>
> Thoughts?
>
> I'm sorta thinking booster, but that's a guess and I'm
> reluctant to blame it because it's relatively new and
> has good lines to it.
>
> Kenyon Wills
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