Re: IML: crankshaft pulley repair and an unstable idle.
[Date Prev][Date Next][Thread Prev][Thread Next][Date Index][Thread Index]

Re: IML: crankshaft pulley repair and an unstable idle.



That's not exactly true. There was at least one different damper used on the 6pack and hipo cars. I don't think any Imperials came with that engine, but just to be thorough I figured I'd throw that out there. To get a NOS damper for my 'cuda would cost sick money.

http://www.440source.com/dampers.htm

Scroll down to "stock dampers" and then the chart on the very bottom.

Rob

From: sosmi@xxxxxxxxxxx
Reply-To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: IML: crankshaft pulley repair and an unstable idle.
Date: Thu, 12 Oct 2006 12:48:38 +0000

Just to clear-up the vibration damper questions, all B-RB= 361-440 engines pre 1971, use the same damper. (interchangeable) They can only be installed one way ,as they are keyed on the crankshaft. It is possible for the outer ring (with the timing mark) to shift on the rubber isolation ring, which can give you a false timing setting. Buy a new one and go.Ya'll have a nice day, Dave.

-------------- Original message --------------
From: "Rob van der Es" <r.vdes@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>

> Hey David,
>
> Thanks for your very interesting post!
> Especially the last part of your message make me read it twice :)
>
> You see, I don't believe me eyes too when it comes to set the ignition
> timing. When I bought the car last year I found the initial timing set at
> 16 degrees BTDC...
> When I adjusted it back to factory specs (10 degrees) it runs NOT Ok.
> I experienced a severe power loss so I set it back to the former 16
> degrees setting.
>
> So far so good, but how can I determine the real initial timing that is
> set this way??
> >From previous messages I have learned that the pully with the timing mark > on it must have slipped (maybe someone can explain how that is possible?)
> on the balancer.
>
> I still haven't found the source for an unstable idle, it is like someone > is playing with the accelerator pedal all the time (you know, like someone > that is impatiently waiting for a traffic light). Can this also have to do
> something with the fact that the pulley has slipped at the harmonic
> balancer?
>
> I think a good start will to find the correct timing mark on the pulley
> and to erase the old one.
> What is the best way then to find the EXACT TDC of cilinder 1 ??
> Is there a tool that I can use for this job?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Robert
> Imperial Crown 4 door HT 1960
>
>
>
>
> Op Wo, 11 oktober, 2006 11:44 pm, schreef David Whitney:
> > The harmonic balancer is not engine specific IF IF IF IF IF your engine > > is internally balanced. This is an important concept. The '63 big block
> > is internally balanced, as the cast crank was not introduced in the RB
> > engine until nearly a decade later. The 413 passenger vehicle engine was
> > never produced with a cast crank. '70s RVs and trucks, maybe.
> >
> > The rule of thumb is forged crank engines are internally balanced, cast
> > crank engines are external. If you have one of the exceptions in your
> > Imperial, you are already savvy and don't need to be reading this.
> >
> >
> > Externally balanced engines are identifiable by the presence of small
> > blobs of metal near the outside circumference of the balancer. That's
> > how they are "balanced", and there is a relationship between that
> > specific balancer and that specific engine.
> >
> > Balancers do go bad when the rubber starts to deteriorate. The early
> > symptoms look like your timing is going bad -- pinging, rough idle, loss
> > of power, technicolor smoke, frogs falling from the sky, etc.
> >
> > A parts book and an interchange manual will steer you toward the proper
> > P/N for your application. There is no reason to refurbish a balancer
> > unless you have a diagnosable psychiatric disorder that is commonly known
> > by its initials. Buy new and be happy.
> >
> > To avoid worrying about your rubber, you can upgrade to a fluid damper.
> > More expensive, more durable.
> >
> >
> > When you change the balancer, you MUST be certain that the TDC mark (the > > one you use to set timing) is actually pointing to 0 on the plate affixed > > to the timing chain cover when cylinder 1 is at EXACT top dead center on > > the COMPRESSION cycle. The most common mistake is getting it 180 degrees > > out. Having it off by a few degrees will merely make it difficult to set > > the timing because you won't want to believe your eyes when you see how
> > many degrees initial advance you have.
> >
> > Some of what I have written is merely interesting. The important
> > sentences have words in CAPS. Not abbreviations... words.
> >
> >
> >
> > Happy motoring,
> >
> >
> > David
> >
> >
> > '91 K-Imperial driver
> > '66 LeBaron dual air and every option known to man
> >
> >
> > ---------------------------------
> > Stay in the know. Pulse on the new Yahoo.com. Check it out.
>
>
>
>
> ----------------- http://www.imperialclub.com -----------------
> This message was sent to you by the Imperial Mailing List. Please
> reply to mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx and your response will be
> shared with everyone. Private messages (and attachments) for the
> Administrators should be sent to webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> To UN-SUBSCRIBE, go to http://imperialclub.com/unsubscribe.htm
>




-----------------  http://www.imperialclub.com  -----------------
This message was sent to you by the Imperial Mailing List. Please reply to mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx and your response will be shared with everyone. Private messages (and attachments) for the
Administrators should be sent to webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
To UN-SUBSCRIBE, go to http://imperialclub.com/unsubscribe.htm



Home Back to the Home of the Forward Look Network


Copyright © The Forward Look Network. All rights reserved.

Opinions expressed in posts reflect the views of their respective authors.
This site contains affiliate links for which we may be compensated.