Re: IML: Dome Light On Half Power W/O Switches Closed

["Rob van der Es" <r.vdes@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

I will give it a shot, thanks Mark!!
One my to do list for this weekend are: cleaning and polishing the
contacts of the fusebox, checking the ground wire that is going to a
splice under the headliner (this should be fun...) to see if the splice is
properly insulated, check the fuses and checking the wiring that is at the
left rear wheel well.

I will keep y'all updated about my progress :)

Thanks,

Robert



Op Vr, 20 oktober, 2006 4:15 am, schreef Mark Pappas:
> Hi All.. I had a problem with the dome light staying on dim .. The
> trouble was a fuse , but it was tail lamp fuse that was blown.., How it
> caused the dome light to come on dim was beyond me... I changed it and the
> dome light went out... So check all your other lights and see if there
> working.. My 2 cents... Bye for now..... On Oct 18, 2006, at 10:34 PM,
> john sadowski wrote:
>
>> If it were me, I'd replace or at least remove all of the fuses & clean
>> the contacts. This is a heck of a lot easier then taking things apart
>> looking for other problems. Many times, the worst is feared when it
>> turns out to be some little thing causing a problem. John
>>
>>> ----- Original Message -----
>>> From: randalpark@xxxxxxx
>>> To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>>> Sent: Wednesday, October 18, 2006 4:37 AM
>>> Subject: IML: Dome Light On Half Power W/O Switches Closed
>>>
>>>
>>> I really think that this dome light issue is related to some kind of
>>> an electrical short circuit. It has been explained that this light
>>> comes on even if the doors and light switch are not activated. That
>>> means that the circuit is being completed someplace else. It has to
>>> be, or the light can't work. I know it sounds wierd, but this short
>>> might not be in the wiring to the light itself.  
>>> A simliar situation in my '48 Lincoln Continental resulted from a
>>> grounded wire under the dash. In this case, the dome light became
>>> brighter as I increased the engine RPMs. At one point, it would go out
>>> until the RPMs fell back down to that level. I haven't mentioned this
>>> previously because the car is six volt positive ground. Nonetheless,
>>> it takes a completed circuit to make the light come on. Once I found
>>> the short, the light functioned normally, and so did the rest of the
>>> car.  
>>> Paul W.
>>>  
>>>  
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: r.vdes@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>>> To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>>> Sent: Wed, 18 Oct 2006 1:30 AM
>>> Subject: Re: IML: Progress of a sort on the '60 LeCrown
>>>
>>>
>>> Hi John,
>>>
>>>
>>> Thanks a lot for your kind suggestion!
>>> I will check the fusebox then to see if something is wrong there.
>>> Might well be the case, cause about the same time my dome light stays
>>> on at half power my wiper motor stopped working... Might be an
>>> coincidence, but who knows?
>>>
>>> I will check out the fusebox this weekend!
>>>
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>>
>>>
>>> Robert
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Op Wo, 18 oktober, 2006 4:09 am, schreef john sadowski:
>>>
>>>> The dome light at half power sounds like a fuse is bad. On my first
>>>>
>>> 63, I
>>>
>>>> had an 8 track player mounted directly below the fuses. Well , one
>>> day
>>>> the dome light wouldn't go out & it was shining less then full
>>> power.
>>>> Opening the doors caused the problem to move to the map light.
>>>> After
>>>> nearly pulling my hair out, I discovered the bad fuse. I put the 8
>>> track
>>>> back in the same place & it happened again. After the 2nd time, I
>>>> relocated the 8 track & no further problem. John ----- Original
>>>> Message -----
>>>> From: richard burgess
>>>> To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>>>> Sent: Tuesday, October 17, 2006 7:24 AM
>>>> Subject: Re: IML: Progress of a sort on the '60 LeCrown
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Hey Everyone,
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Since we're all chiming in on our '60s I thought I would throw in
>>>>
>>> another
>>>> update.
>>>>
>>>> If you have paid attention to the saga, a big milestone has been
>>>>
>>> made.  I
>>>> have a brand new correct windshield installed, finally!  It's so
>>>> beauutiful.  I have most of the stainless back on but of course had
>>>>
>>> one
>>>> of the header clips break.  Fortunately I have had parts cars.  The
>>>>
>>> trim
>>>> slid around a bit so it took a couple tries to get everything
>>> rights.  I
>>>> am ready to install the dynamat insulation on the roof and begin
>>>> windlacing installation.  I have started installing
>>> weatherstripping on
>>>> the doors.  I seriously wonder how well these cars were sealed in
>>> the
>>>> first place.  The original weatherstripping was crushed in many
>>> places
>>>> leading me to believe it never quite went the direction it was
>>> intended
>>>> even when new.  As soon as the headliner goes in I can start on the
>>>>  carpet and installing the interior which is already finished.
>>>>
>>>> The engine and transmission have now both been overhauled a second
>>>>
>>> time
>>>> due to botched work the first time.  My Dad is coming down next
>>> week and
>>>> we are going to get the drivetrain installed.  This should all go
>>> very
>>>> qwickly as we have now done it once before!  I really plan on
>>> finishing
>>>> the car sometime next Spring.  this is my fourth year in this frame
>>>>
>>> up
>>>> restoration.  We are then going to get the front sheetmetal on.
>>>>
>>>> Then the real troubleshootinng can begin.  Once everything is
>>>>
>>> hooked up I
>>>> can see what does and does not work.  I have laboriously added a
>>> factory
>>>> original power lock system from a parts car using the original
>>> wiring
>>>> harness and nos transformers.  I still need one actuator for the
>>> driver's
>>>> door.   It will be things like this that I am dying to know if they
>>>>  actually work.
>>>>
>>>> It's going to be looking like a car again soon!
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Richard Burgess
>>>> '60 Crown
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Rob van der Es <r.vdes@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
>>>> Hi Donn,
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Ahhh, the joys of owning and maintaining a 1960 Imperial...
>>>> Been there, done that and as a matter of fact.. Still do!!
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Isn't it great fun to find yourself under the dash upside down (not
>>>>
>>> too
>>>> easy when you are size XXL :) trying to repair something that is
>>> hidden
>>>> there?
>>>>
>>>> Right now I am trying to fix the wiper motor, it suddenly stopped
>>>>
>>> working
>>>> and haven't found out yet what is wrong. Since both the switch and
>>> the
>>>> wiper motor are really hard to accesss this aint a job for the
>>>> faint hearted!
>>>>
>>>> Another problem is that the EL dash lighting system from time to
>>>>
>>> time
>>>> fails to work, I have already thrown in a new (=rebuild) power pack
>>>>
>>> but the
>>>> dash still gets dark every now and then (after a few days
>>> everything is
>>>> working again for an hour or so..) Must be one of the gauges that
>>>> is shorting out I guess, so in a short time I will finding myself
>>>> again under the dash pulling white leads from the gauges to find out
>>>>
>>> which one
>>>> is guilty.
>>>>
>>>> Then we have the strange problem with the dome-light, it stays on
>>>>
>>> when
>>>> the doors are closed.. And even stranger it shines it's light at
>>> half
>>>> power or so. There must be a shortcircuit to ground (and no, the
>>>> doorswitches are ok and so is the manual switch: with all those
>>> switches
>>>> disconnected the dome light is still working at half power..) but I
>>>>  haven't found out yet where.
>>>>
>>>> I learned from Richard Burgess that there is a connectionpoint
>>>>
>>> under the
>>>> headliner, running from the manual switch to the domelight and then
>>>>
>>> to left
>>>> rear wheel well where it connected to the doorswitches, so
>>> problably the
>>>> shortcircuit is in this area...
>>>>
>>>> Apart from all these electrical problems (the electrical system of
>>>>
>>> the 60
>>>> model year isn't of the same quality as the rest of the car if you
>>> ask
>>>> me) the car drives beautifully. Running strong and is shifting
>>>> gears perfectly, all I have to do in this aspect is to sort out a
>>>> rough
>>> idle. I
>>>> might be in for a new harmonic damper since the timing mark seems
>>> to have
>>>> slipped..
>>>>
>>>> So enough work to do, but it is worth every minute of time that I
>>>>
>>> have
>>>> spend so far to make the car better then it was before I bought
>>> it:) It is
>>>
>>>> fun, and to see all those faces of people looking at a car that
>>> they have
>>>> never seen before...Well, it makes it all worth I guess!
>>>>
>>>> So Donn, keep up the good work and keep it runnin'
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> All the best,
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Robert
>>>> 1960 Crown 4 door Hardtop
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Op Di, 17 oktober, 2006 5:16 am, schreef Donn Reese:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>> In fits and starts the Imperial is getting more roadworthy, but
>>>>>
>>> good
>>>>> grief is it putting up a fight! Maybe it's just tired and WANTS
>>>>> to
>>> go sit
>>>>> in a pasture forever. I've certainly been ready to oblige a
>>>>> couple
>>> times
>>>>> recently.
>>>>>
>>>>> The heater fan was making a loud scraping noise and the heater
>>>>>
>>> control
>>>>> valve had been bypassed so I decided to pull the heater and at
>>> least fix
>>>>> the fan. I was surprised how easy the heater unit was to remove,
>>> just
>>>>> three screws. Turns out the plastic housing on the outside face
>>>>> of
>>> the
>>>>> squirrel cage had deformed inwards pressing against the squirrel
>>> cage
>>>>> itself. I used my heat gun to heat up the plastic then pushed the
>>>>>
>>> face
>>>>> out, reforming from a concave to a convex (btw, it's pretty
>>>>> crappy plastic). But it's much quieter now and I didn't have to
>>>>> cut a
>>> hole in
>>>>> the housing.
>>>>>
>>>>> With that fixed I removed the heater control valve and (assuming
>>>>>
>>> it was
>>>>> just froze up with corrosion) proceeded to lubricate it and get
>>> the
>>>>> valve working again. I reinstalled it and hooked up the heater
>>> hoses and
>>>>> fired up the car. That's when I found out why it had been
>>> bypassed, it
>>>>> leaks. Soooo, I bypassed it again and will have to scout around
>>> for a
>>>>> new one.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> I discovered the cause of the slow turn signals at idle that I
>>>>>
>>> reported
>>>>> here recently.....bad flasher. I put a new one in and now it
>>>>> works regardless of idle. Seems strange to me though.
>>>>>
>>>>> Amongst all of this, last week the speedometer started making a
>>>>> horrendous noise and the needle would jump around. The OIC archive
>>>>>
>>> came
>>>>> in handy, found the same symptoms there....who would have guessed
>>>>>
>>> you
>>>>> have to lubricate the speedo head periodically. Definitely a new
>>> one on
>>>>> me. Especially surprising considering they don't make it easy to
>>> get
>>>>> any of the instruments out to do any kind of maintenance.
>>>>>
>>>>> I made another little test run down the highway and back and
>>>>>
>>> everything
>>>>> seems to be fine for now. Let's hope it stays that way as we're
>>> now
>>>>> getting frost at night and working outside is getting chilly.
>>>>>
>>>>> Donn Reese
>>>>> 1960 Custom 4dr hdtp
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
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>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
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