Re: IML: Coil

[randalpark@xxxxxxx]

Leaving the "key on for days" will also fry the points if the car still 
has the original ignition. I don't know what it does for the electronic 
ignition, but I don't imagine that it would be good for it.

Paul W.

-----Original Message-----
From: sosmi@xxxxxxxxxxx
To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Thu, 28 Dec 2006 11:52 AM
Subject: Re: IML: Coil

Spark coils are very reliable, the most common factors for failure are, 
over-heating, by leaving the key on for days, the oil leaking out, 
which is used as an insulator, and for cooling, and over-tightening in 
the mounting bracket, this can crush the housing, and create a short in 
the windings. Other wise they're just about bullet proof. During 
start-up, full battery voltage is supplied to the coil for maximum 
spark voltage, after start-up all coil current, is through the  ballast 
resistor. The FSM has a short explaination on the subject, if you don't 
believe me. Ya'll have a nice day, Dave . 
                                                                &n 
bsp;                                                                     
                              -------------- Original message 
--------------
From: "Steve B." <Imperial59@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>

> Chris Strohmeyer wrote:
> > Can the coil be drawing more than 6-8volts and instead draw 10-12v 
if
> > it were defective? I tried an old coil I had here and got the same
> > voltage at the coil. Could they both be bad? How common is it that 
a
> > c oil would be bad?
>
> You are kind of confusing terms here. Nothing "draws" voltage. Think
> of voltage like water pressure. It is the push behind the 
electricity.
> The higher the voltage the harder the push. Very simplistic view but 
it
> might help.
>
> In 20 something years of playing with old cars I have had exactly one
> bad coil. I do replace them with new on any old car I pick up more as
> preventative maintenance than anything. I also keep a spare ballast
> resistor in the glove box of every Chrysler product I have ever 
owned.
> If you swapped the ballast resistor and coil and still have the exact
> same issue then I would say you have pretty much eliminated them as a
> culprit. Could still be ignition related though... bad points or a
> condenser that is breaking down could cause this problem.
>
> Steve B.
>
>
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