IML: Points and condensers

For those that still use points and condensers, this might prove valuable, I have found in many cases, the points form an oxide on the contacts due to long shelf storage. Before installation, we clean the contacts with 150- 200 grit, or a point file.The other thing we've had problems with, is condensers marked, "Made in Mexico" Since I buy more points and condensers, then most could use in a life time, this comes with much experience.I only hope to help.Ya'll have a nice day, Dave.-------------- Original message --------------
From: "Steve B." <Imperial59@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Chris Strohmeyer wrote:
> > Thx Steve, Then why the 10v at idle and 12v at higher rpm on the plus
> > side of the coil? This was done with jumpers to eliminate the wiring
> > harness.
> > Would you be concerned about thes voltages?
> Well one reason would be that you have a higher voltage coming from the
> alternator at 2500rpm than you have at idle in most situations. Also
> the resistor heating due to load changes the voltage as others have
> explained (much better than this simple FL boy can do). I just went and
> tried your test on my '68 lesser Chrysler product and came back with the
> same numbers you are getting. That car has run perfectly for the last
> three years so, no, I would not be concerned about the voltages you are
> seeing. Change the points and condenser if you haven't already just for
> good measure. You can also attach a timing light or tach and watch for
> a good steady spark when it starts acting up if you have one available.
>
> If spark looks good then go back and start looking at the fuel system
> again.
>
> Steve B.
>
>
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