Re: IML: Points and condensers
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Re: IML: Points and condensers



I have also experienced a problem with the strength of the tension spring on the point set not being correct. Due to parts standardization, sometimes replacement point sets now come with a variety of tension springs. These are specific to the car, but aren't marked, so you have to match them to the set that came out of the car.

If this tension isn't correct, the point set will open and close incorrectly (or bounce), especially at higher RPMs. With this problem, the engine might idle fine but run terrible at any speed. Obviously doesn't apply to electronic ignition.

Paul W.

-----Original Message-----
From: sosmi@xxxxxxxxxxx
To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Thu, 28 Dec 2006 2:46 PM
Subject: IML: Points and condensers

For those that still use points and condensers, this might prove valuable, I have found in many cases, the points form an oxide on the contacts due to long shelf storage. Before installation, we clean the contacts with 150- 200 grit, or a point file.The other thing we've had problems with, is condensers marked, "Made in Mexico" Since I buy more points and condensers, then most could use in a life time, this comes with much experience.I only hope to help.Ya'll have a nice day, Dave.-------------- Original message --------------
From: "Steve B." <Imperial59@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Chris Strohmeyer wrote:
> Thx Steve, Then why the 10v at idle and 12v at higher rpm on the
plus
> side of the coil? This was done with jumpers to eliminate the
wiring
> harness.
> Would you be concerned about thes voltages?
Well one reason would be that you have a higher voltage coming from
the
alternator at 2500rpm than you have at idle in most situations. Also
the resistor heating due to load changes the voltage as others have
explained (much better than this simple FL boy can do). I just went
and
tried your test on my '68 lesser Chrysler product and came back with
the
same numbers you are getting. That car has run perfectly for the last
three years so, no, I would not be concerned about the voltages you
are
seeing. Change the points and condenser if you haven't already just
for
good measure. You can also attach a timing light or tach and watch
for
a good steady spark when it starts acting up if you have one
available.

If spark looks good then go back and start looking at the fuel system
again.

Steve B.


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