RE: IML: '73 Lebaron - factory installed wrong air door for AutoTemp II - need correct part

[Tim Durrer <tdkd99@xxxxxxxxx>]

Jim,

Sounds like you definitely got a car made very early
on Monday morning! Too bad Lee Iaccoca wasn't at
Chrysler in 1973! I will take a digital picture of the
area in question and e-mail it to you. 

Where did you get your switch from? Also, if you could
look up a fuel sending unit for a 73 Imperial (made
11/72)I would very much appreciate it. I want to try
and find a NOS unit for my car.

Thanks,

Tim Durrer
'73 Blue Sky

--- Jim Stacey <jhrstacey@xxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

> Tim,
> 
> Thanks for your interest and offer to help.
> 
> You raise some good points.
> 
> You're right about the actuator bracket.  In my
> original email when I
> referred to the "air door" I was referring to both
> the housing and the
> actuator bracket as one assembly since the bracket
> is riveted to the
> housing. However, the parts book calls for both a
> different bracket and
> different air door housing for the ATCII.  As you
> suggested, the ATCII
> bracket would have a mounting location for the
> transfer switch.  Mine
> doesn't.  From what I can gather from the MTSC
> booklet, the air door housing
> would need to be different as well since apparently
> there is a cam attached
> to the air door itself on the ATCII version to
> control the transfer switch.
> 
> 
> I got the vacuum hoses out of storage and took a
> look at how they were
> configured when I took it apart.  (I labeled all
> hose ends when I
> disassembled them.)  There are three vacuum hoses to
> the air door
> actuator/transfer switch - black, green and orange.
> 
> The orange hose was connected correctly - to the
> "close" side of the door
> actuator. The FSM shows this to be used only in the
> "OFF" mode, so I assume
> it would have behaved as it was supposed to.
> 
> The black hose that was supposed to be connected to
> the transfer switch to
> open the door to 100% outside air was connected
> directly to the "open" side
> of the door actuator, so it would have caused the
> door to open to 100%
> outside air when it was supposed to, even though it
> did not go through the
> transfer switch.
> 
> The green hose was the one that actually went
> "nowhere".  It was not plugged
> or capped.  This is the one that was supposed to
> open the door to only 20%
> outside air.  Since it was not connected, I assume
> the door would have
> stayed at 100% recirculation when 20% outside was
> called for.  And, as you
> pointed out, when in this mode there should have
> been a hissing sound from
> that green hose sucking air, but it was so long ago
> since I drove the car
> that I couldn't say whether the noise was apparent
> or not!  Plus it is hard
> to say what effect this leaking vacuum line could
> have had on the rest of
> the system.  Perhaps it compromised the vacuum in
> other parts of the system
> causing poor performance?
> 
> I am looking forward to hearing what you find when
> you have a chance to look
> at your car.  It is a happy coincidence that the
> glove box is out so you can
> have good look at it.  That should tell us exactly
> what components are
> correct and how they are arranged, mounted and
> connected.  It might be a
> challenge, but perhaps you could get a photo through
> the glove box door that
> would show all this.
> 
> Thanks again for your help.  If I can be of any help
> looking up a part
> number in the '73 parts book for you or anyone else
> on the list - just say
> the word.
> 
> Jim Stacey
> '73 4dr project
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: mailing-list-owner@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> [mailto:mailing-list-owner@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On
> Behalf Of Tim Durrer
> Sent: Thursday, December 28, 2006 5:56 PM
> To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: Re: IML: '73 Lebaron - factory installed
> wrong air door for
> AutoTemp II - need correct part
> 
> Hi Jim,
> 
> I also have a '73 LeBaron that I am in the middle of
> repairing various things on. One of which is the
> Auto
> Temp II. I have ordered a replacement servo from
> Performance Analysis in Oakridge TN. They are
> expensive, but well worth the cost. If yours still
> has
> the old plastic design unit under the hood it will
> eventually crack and leak coolant (If it is not
> already cracked). When I got my car the previous
> owner
> had bypassed the unit for this reason.
> 
> As to your switch issue I am a little confused. You
> said you remember a bundle of vacuum lines that
> seemed
> to go nowhere. Were they capped off by any chance?
> It
> would seem to me you would hear a distinctive hiss
> coming from under the dash the last time you drove
> the
> car if they were not. Are you sure the actuator
> itself
> does not have the bracket the switch is mounted to?
> It
> could be they just installed the wrong actuator and
> said the heck with switch when it would not bolt up.
> 
> I don't have a parts book to verify the difference
> on
> ATC versus non ATC parts. Is the actuator connected
> by
> any chance? 
> 
> My car is currently at my Dad's in a different part
> of
> the state having some engine work done to it. I
> should
> be able to pick it up in a couple of weeks and I
> will
> check mine to see how it is set up. I currently have
> the glove box out, so I should be able to see the
> switch and how it mounts easily. I will let you know
> what I find out. Where did you get your switch from?
> I
> may need one myself!
> 
> Tim Durrer
> 73 LeBaron Blue Sky
>                             
> 
> 
> 
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