IML: Valve Cover Gaskets

[randalpark@xxxxxxx]

I totally agree with this approach. It has worked well for me for over 
35 years.

Paul W.

-----Original Message-----
From: fljoslin@xxxxxxxx
To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Tue, 13 Feb 2007 9:18 AM
Subject: Re: IML: Fuselage cars

The method you describe is what I have used for valve covers, 
transmission pans and rear end covers.

Clean both mating surfaces well and use a solvent (brake cleaner) as 
the final step. Attach the gasket to the "non car" surface using a good 
silicone sealer. Do not use any sealer on the "car" surface. Attach the 
cover and torque down. I usually use a 1/4" drive socket for these type 
of torque applications and go around about ten times at 1/4 turn each 
until it feels good. The small ratchet reduces the amount of torque 
that you can apply. I know this is not very "scientific" but I have 
changed a few trans, rear end and valve covers like this and never had 
one leak. A good trick to remove any goop from the mating surfaces is 
to use a wire brush. You need to be very careful if it is on the "car 
side" so that you don't get anything into delicate areas. However, if 
you have the valve cover, trans pan, rear end cover off, a wire brush 
in a drill will make very quick work of any junk and not damage 
anything. Just make sure you clean it well afterwards. If you do follow 
the process of not applying any sealer to the car side of the gasket, 
there should be nothing on the other surface to remove anyway.

I have seen many  shops going to the no gasket, silicone sealer only 
approach. I am not really sure why. I have seen these fail (leak) and 
it makes it a real B***H to remove. Not only is the cover stuck on such 
that you risk warping it to remove it, but the bolts can get all gummed 
up and very difficult to remove and you have goo all over the car side 
of the surfaces which is tough to remove.


----- Original Message -----
From: randalpark@xxxxxxx
To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: IML: Fuselage cars
Date: Tue, 13 Feb 2007 10:41:21 -0500


I find that it works best to glue them (good
quality rubber ones) in place in the valve
cover, before installing the valve cover on the
head. Occasionally, I have to tighten the bolts
a little bit, but I haven't had any other
problems. I have used this method several
times. I also find it easier to deal with
cleaning the valve cover rather than having the
scrape the head. Although the surface must be
cleaned, the less work I have to do on the
head, hanging over the fender, the easier it is
on my back.

Paul W.

-----Original Message-----
From: mr85000@xxxxxxxxx
To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Mon, 12 Feb 2007 8:42 PM
Subject: Re: IML: Fuselage cars

Have you tried to get rubber cover gaskets? I purchased some in
1980 for my 1972 Custom Suburban S/W with a 400 in it.

I am going to see if I can get some for my 75's 440. RockAuto has
them FEL-PRO Part # VS50145R Rubber coated fiber gaskets $14.40


Æyn & Patrick

--- Brad Weikert wrote:

> On Feb 12, 2007, at 6:30 PM, Kenyon Wills wrote:
>
> > Aside from a valve cover that refuses to seal despite
> > four tries...
>
> If you haven't tried it already you might want to try a Fel-Pro
> blue
> stripe cork gasket and install it with NO sealant. That's how
> I
> finally stopped the valve covers from leaking on my '73 440.
> As the
> oil soaks into the cork the cork will expand and (hopefully)
> seal the
> leaks.
>
> Brad



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Fred Joslin
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