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I agree, depending on what I think you're saying, which is, make the
opening bid pretty much the least you're willing to accept?
I kind of see both points, i.e., having a reserve and making the lowest bid
the least acceptable; however, if the lowest bid acceptable receives 0 bids,
then there's no gauge as to what someone might pay. If there's a reserve
and an opening bid, let's just say, starting at $500.00, and bidding moves up,
but not to your reserve, there's a better gauge as to what the car is worth at
that time.
From what I've seen, it seems that cars are kind of like housing. The
same car is worth more in the summer than in the winter. The car that I
bought on E-Bay, had it been cleaned up, had a cheap set of tires put on it (I
put on nice tires), and the hub caps, could have gone for over $1,500.00 or more
than what I paid. On top of which, I drove it 2,100 miles in a day and a
half, so it's mechanically sound.
I've seen some really nice-looking cars that they give a laundry list of
problems that go for a lot more. So, I think it depends on time of year
and shoppers.
Timothy
1965 Crown 4-door
I encourage you to list the car without reserve at the lowest price you can possibly afford to part with the car for and be done with it. That way you are up-front and everyone knows what the deal is. You will get far more activity and money from extensive visual and descriptive documentation than anything revolving around a reserve scheme, says the 20 or so Imperials that I've sold on ebay this way. Better the devil you know than the one you don't. -Kenyon See what's free at AOL.com. |
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