Re: IML: EPR vs. ETR Valve
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Re: IML: EPR vs. ETR Valve



One of the e-mails states it is necessary to remove
the EPR valve because it is not calibrated to work
properly with R-134A and will negatively effect the
amount of cooling. The car he was referring to does


The EPR valve was only on the early RV2 compressors (my '59 has one but I don't think '60 does) so you don't need to worry about that one.

I converted my '73 with dual air to 134a a few years ago. I flushed the system, replaced all the o-rings, added new oil and filled 'er up. I found that most of the year it worked great. If I left the car sitting out all day in the heat of summer ( I am in Tampa, FL) the air never seemed to be able catch up and cool the car but if I parked in the shade I could count on there being condensation on the windows before I got home.

If I were doing it again today I would have also replaced the rubber hoses. Those hoses are old and 134a runs at higher pressures. One of my hoses grew a bubble near one of the connectors and eventually it popped letting all my refrigerant out.

Steve B.


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