Re: IML: 61 rear brake drum challenge - Tools

[<wardle65@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

You don't have to spend a fortune on a hub puller.  I went shopping for one 
a while back and was very dissatisfied with what I saw so I set out to make 
one.  I used 1/2 inch steel plate and marked out the stud pattern so it 
would bolt across ALL THE STUDS using my wheel nuts.  I cut another hole in 
the middle of that then had my mate weld a small tower (to clear the raised 
hub section) with a nut on the inside and a 3/4 inch threaded rod thru that 
with a pointed end (into spindle) and a welded nut on the other end so you 
can crank it with a large shifter.

Let me tell you it works a treat and cost me $20 in material and my mates 
time cut it and weld it up.

Chris Wardle
58 Imp Crown Coupe


----- Original Message ----- 
From: <randalpark@xxxxxxx>
To: <mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Wednesday, May 16, 2007 10:38 AM
Subject: Re: IML: 61 rear brake drum challenge - Tools


> This point, along with safety, can not be over emphasized with respect to 
> this job. The highest quality heavy duty puller makes the difference 
> between success and failure in doing this job.
>
> If you own a tapered rear axle car (pre-1965) and plan to keep it, buying 
> one of these will never be a mistake. If you don't use it, the person who 
> ends up fixing your car will.
>
> Paul W.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: imperialken@xxxxxxxxx
> To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Sent: Tue, 15 May 2007 2:58 PM
> Subject: RE: IML: 61 rear brake drum challenge - Tools
>
> I've been reading as different members describe horrors related to various
> repairs of there Imperials.  And while I applaud anyone who can save a few
> bucks during the process, my experience has taught me that "tools" is not
> the place to cut corners.  The MAC puller referenced below is a quality
> tool. (and it's not cheap)  Sure you can get the same tool at Harbor 
> Freight
> for a fraction of the cost.  But it WILL NOT do the same job.  I have seen
> people spend many a frustrating hour trying to accomplish something with
> inferior tools, only to fail.  I'll walk up with Snap-On, Mac or good
> Craftsman tools and perform the same task in seconds.  To me the better
> tools are worth it.
>
> Just my .02
>
> Ken
> 67 Crown 4 Dr Ht
> 68 LeBaron 4 Dr Ht
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: mailing-list-owner@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> [mailto:mailing-list-owner@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of Kenyon Wills
> Sent: Tuesday, May 15, 2007 11:10 AM
> To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: Re: IML: 61 rear brake drum challenge
>
>
> --- spicemanii@xxxxxxx wrote:
>
> > The hub puller I have is from Mac Tools. I bought
> > the extra legs, so it has 5 and not 3.
>
> The part # for the
> > puller: PP827B.  The 2 more legs that you also want
> > are #PP827B-2. The assembly was $145.99 and the 2
> > extra legs were $99.10. They paid shipping. Joe
> > Machado
>
> Joe is right on with that information.  If the MAC
> tool fails to pull your drum off, especially with a
> good pneumatic impact wrench driving it (manual stuff
> is for the birds in my book), your junk just isn't
> coming apart and you might want to pass and move
> forward to a replacement axle or cut your drum off.
>
> I have plenty of grease on the tool's threads and on
> the face where it meets and spins on the axle spindle
> too, so that my twisting force is retarded as little
> as possible by friction where there's metal twisting
> on metal.
>
> I pulled a pair of 1960 Fury (tapered) drums (that I'd
> never pulled off before) yesterday with this
> discussion in mind as I did it.
>
> once the tool was set up and snug, each drum took less
> than 15 seconds of pneumatic impact wrench pressure to
> pop, and that's about normal per my experience.
>
> I keep expecting to get a "stubborn" drum that matches
> the tightness of the drums that so many others seem to
> have, but it just hasn't happened on the 10+ axles
> I've done...
>
>
>
> Kenyon Wills
>
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