Re: IML: Several problems

[Kenyon Wills <imperialist1960@xxxxxxxxx>]

--- "Hardrick, Brian" <HardrickBG@xxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

 
> -          On a 65 Imperial Crown Coupe I noticed
> that it does not have
> springs in the front suspension, what was used in
> place of them?  I was
> able to identify shocks in the front.
> 

Chrysler produced Tanks during WWII and into the 60's
at least.  Tanks use "Torsion Bar" suspension, with
straight bars that load up as they are twisted. 
Something to lord over your non-mopar car aquaintences
by telling them that your car has no coil or
leaf-spring suspension in front and then attempting to
bet the suckers in the group that they can't find
them.

This design yeilds a superior ride, less dive, and a
significant difference in how the Imperial feels in
comparison to a Cad or Lincoln.

The design was used (largely unchanged for about 20+
years, starting in 1957 or was it '56?), You can see a
BIG difference in the handling and braking in the
middle to latter parts of this demonstration movie. 
Advance to minute 13 if you're really impatient, but
the whole thing's pretty cool:

http://imperialclub.com/Yr/1957/TestTrack/

http://imperialclub.com/Yr/1957/FwdLkAd/58TorsionAire-reg.jpg

not only are the springs not coiled or leaf springs
but are instead bars, the design allows ride height
adjustment - careful to follow directions and adjust
with front end unloaded!  Chrysler Engineering was
outstanding at the time.  Check this out:

http://imperialclub.com/Yr/1965/65FSM/02-03.htm
http://imperialclub.com/Yr/1965/65FSM/02-04.htm


> -          Does anyone know where I can get rear
> leaf springs for this
> vehicle?  The ones that are on there look as if they
> are truck springs.

This is a 5000 lb car.  Spings on it should look like
truck springs, since the car weighs more than most
modern pickup trucks.  They should be about flat when
loaded and the bottom edge of the car should be
parallel to the ground front to back.  Betts Springs
here in San Leandro, CA goes back 100+ years and can
make them ($300 each or pair, I can't recall), or you
can get a set off of a parts car from one of the
vendors.  Unless the car is sagging or is unreasonably
stiff, you may have stock units.  

Careful about replacement units that are the WRONG
setup, no matter how well intentioned.  Your car will
not have the soft, smooth ride and will bang you
around instead, and may wind up slightly jacked up in
the rear like my 1970:

http://imperialclub.com/Yr/1970/Kenyon1970/images/Hang%2020%20-%20feet%20that%20is.JPG
 


Caveat Emptor.

> 
> -          I am getting smoke from both sides of the
> engine closest to
> the valve cover gaskets by the windshield.  I
> recently had the VCs
> changed so what else could that be and how do I test
> to make sure it is
> indeed that?

The heads tilt downward the farther back they go.
Oil pools there, and there is no other likely source
of smoke in that area unless a PS hose bursts (that
will make flames and smoke) or there's a spark plug
cable melting on the manifold, which is followed by
decreased performance from your 7-cylinder car, again
obvious if not oil.

It's oil.  Smell it.  

The 413 is less notorious for this, but all of the
1959+ RB engines have a tendancy to leak if the valve
cover isn't installed properly.  


My technique:  
Get the rubber gasktets (you'll get some of the cork
fanatics writing in to debate this one...).  
Make certain that the holes are not stretched out in
the cover from overtightening.
install cover, putting bottom ONLY screws in first and
tightening them down snugly FIRST.
Install top screws SECOND, tightening them down only
AFTER bottom ones are done.

Rotating the cover downwards in the direction of the
intake manifold and cinching down the top set second
allows a scissoring action on the covers that you
won't match if you put the covers on evenly, as is
common sense and common procedure elsewhere on
engines.
 
> -          Lastly, my tranny will not go in reverse
> should I rebuild the
> entire unit or is there something specific that I
> can replace to get
> this operating.  I am not sure if this is the
> original tranny or not and
> what type of maintenance has been done previously to
> it.
 

Trans is a lever (and not push-buttons) on the column.
1965 used the 1964-style transmission that is cable
operated, so there is a cable that goes down to the
trans from somewhere in the column (I think).  This is
a one-year only gadget that is supposedly a bitch to
deal with, so take care of it.

Your Reverse gear is either fried (likely, expensive),
or the shift cable is adjusted incorrectly and isn't
getting enough motion to select the R gear (less
likely, cheap & DIY to check).  Reading the service
manual will tell you how to set the cable, and it
should only take access to under the car and a hand
tool to adjust the daisy wheel adjuster on the
threaded barrel that houses the shift cable where it
goes into the transmission.

The car will not start if it does not sense that the
cable is in N position, as there is a Neutral Safety
Switch in there.  There is a small range of play for
N, and you may be at the wrong end of it?  

http://imperialclub.com/Repair/Lit/Master/140/page13.htm
Double check that 1965 procedures are the same, should
be...

Finding a good Trans place that does not advertise on
TV and has someone with Gray Hair who has lived in the
country and been doing this for awhile should make
short work of your transmission diagnosis, since these
are comparatively simple units.  I know of only 4
places in the SF Bay Area (probably more), so you will
want to drive around and ask people what they know
about cable-operated 727 Torqueflight Transmissions.  

DO NOT GO TO AAMCO. 
 
You have been warned.


Good luck.  Let us know how you get along on the above list.

Kenyon Wills
 
 






















       
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