Re: IML: 1960 Imperial brake bleeding
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Re: IML: 1960 Imperial brake bleeding
- From: PAUL WENTINK <randalpark@xxxxxxx>
- Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2007 19:53:53 -0400
Thank you for sharing this.
I ran into a similar problem when bleeding the brakes on my '56 through
'62 models a few years back. The FSM is very specific about the brake
shoes being adjusted before attempting the bleed. With the shoe
adjustment backed off, there isn't enough pressure to push the fluid
and air through the system properly to get a good bleed. The tip on
raising the jar is excellent, and we discovered that ourselves also.
Your father is a very smart man, and should be commended for his
efforts and statements regarding this process. With the brakes bled and
adjusted properly, correctly made lines, and parts in top shape, the
brakes on these cars should feel completely adequate, and inspire
confidence in stopping ability. If they don't, something is wrong.
Mine do, but when I read about folks that feel the opposite, I
immediately suspect an incorrect procedure or defective parts. 1956 was
the first year for this style of brakes, and the only year where the
drums needed to be bigger, adding more stopping power and heat
dissipation. The other models should be fine unless they have been
over-heated from repeat panic stops, riding them down a hill, or
improperly maintained.
Paul W.
-----Original Message-----
From: richard burgess <lecrown60@xxxxxxxxx>
To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx; Kenyon Wills
<imperialist1960@xxxxxxxxx>; Larry Blomburg <lazblom@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Mon, 22 Oct 2007 4:47 am
Subject: IML: 1960 Imperial brake bleeding
Hi Folks,
After spending countless hours working on the brakes on my '60 Crown
they are finally working properly. I think we bled them entirely three
times before getting everything repaired properly. The shop that
"restored" my chasis did not double flare the brake lines correctly and
had overtightened the flares at the bronze blocks creating distortion
and leaks. We ended up replacing all of the lines again and the blocks
as well, at the front frame and on top of the axle. The IML web site
was helpful but did not really address the issue of pedal going to the
floor. See below. Another tip, we elevated our brake bleeding bottle
on a small step ladder, that really helped keeep the air from returning
to the cylinders during the bleeding process. After all of this my
father had this to say:
For Imperial Club under "Repair" , "Brakes", "Brake Bleeding".
The 1960 Imperial and like years brake systems can be perfectly bled
and the pedal still go to the floor if the brake shoes are not adjusted
to require minimal movement to brake the drum. The bottom line is
that with six cylinders to provide fluid too, the master cylinder will
be at the end of its stroke (to the floor) before the wheel cylinders
have enough fluid (pressure) to push the shoes tight against the
drums. Chrysler knew this, as in the Maintenance Manual under "Pedal
goes to Floor" you (a) check fluid in master cylinder and (b) adjust
for worn linings. The obvious implication is that it does not take
much slack at the brake shoes to allow the pedal to go to the floor.
With the shoes properly adjusted tight against the drum and just
loosened enough to allow the wheel to turn freely you still will not
have a firm pedal until you almost reach the floor. That's just the
way it is. If you want to see this then tighten all the shoes against
the drums and then see how much pedal you have. You cannot see this by
pumping the pedal as the strong shoe return springs will push the fluid
back out of the wheel cylinders faster than you can stroke the master
cylinder. Adjust the shoes properly and frequently and you can get
good braking.
Richard Burgess
'60 Crown
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