Re: IML: 1960 gauge/personality notes

As for the fuel sender in the tank, I already knew that it read 7/8 when full. So, I pulled the sender, bent the float arm a bit and reinstalled and tested again and adjustd until it is correct. I do that on every car I own so they are almost perfect, as the factory intended, I hope. I will be testing the 61 Imperial conv sender soon after the interior is done. joe machado

-----Original Message-----
From: Kenyon Wills <imperialist1960@xxxxxxxxx>
To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Tue, 23 Oct 2007 11:07 am
Subject: IML: 1960 gauge/personality notes

--- Rob van der Es <r.vdes@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

> Maybe the other 60 owners, Paul, Tom, Kenyon and
> Charles can jump in on this and tell us how much
> pedal travel they have?

"normal"  Pedal grabs 35% of the way to the floor and
is full lock by 60% or 70%

If you own a 1957-62 car and have not completely read
and then subsequently referred to the MTSC book on
adjusting those brakes, you're flying in the dark.

> And since we are talking about 1960 Imps here, what
> is the correct reading for the temperature of our
> cars?

20%-50%, between C and H and it varies from car to car
to car. 

Sjak said something about variety in gauge calibration
and variety in condition of the sending units?  He's
dead-on, and I think your gauge reading C instead of
50% is no big deal.  Unlike a religious text, your
gauge has not been blessed by a diety and is likely to
be showing low on the face, but reacting properly to
the input it is being given.  If not
tested/calibrated, it may be low or high.

My 64 reads "75%" when the tank is full.  Since I've
gotten the gas to overflow and still had this
condition, I conclude that "empty" is actually 25%
below the peg where the gauge says E, so that gauge is
running "cold" as well and the mechanism probably just
wants to be rotated in relation to the face of the
gauge so that the needle can reach F when the float is
pegged against the roof of the gas tank by a full
load.

What you'll want to watch for is CHANGE - the needle
jumping upwards (in your case "H" would probably be
50% or whatever).  If it runs C and jumps to 75%, you
have a problem that should be addressed by shutting
the engine off!  

Most temp gauges will come up, stay up, and should
really not move once up.  When they start moving
around, that's an indication of a problem.  My various
cars are all over the place.  The needle behaves the
same, it just lands in different spots from car to
car.  

None of my engines ever run "too cold" when I stupidly
put my skin on the hot radiator by mistake, I can tell
you that much.

-K

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