Dan,
There are at least two techniques for replacing the valve seals without
removing the heads. One is with air pressure (through the spark plug hole)
to hold the valves closed while removing/installing the seals. Another is to
insert 6 to 7 feet of nylon rope through the spark plug hole and compress it
above the piston to hold the valves closed while removing/installing the
seals.
I need to replace the valve seals on my 1968 Dodge Charger (383 "B" engine)
but I haven't had the nerve to try either technique. Have any of the
Imperial Club members had success with these techniques - or any other
tricks that I don't know about.?
Burt Bouwkamp
----- Original Message -----
From: <
therichardsonfamily@xxxxxxxxxxx>
To: "IML" <
mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Tuesday, November 13, 2007 1:20 PM
Subject: IML: Oil usage theories
> Hello everyone (& Dave):
>
> I have excessive oil usage on my '67 Imperial engine. Not much of a
> surprise with 150K+, and sitting for a decade. 1 quart/150 miles at 70
> mph, & 1 quart/300 miles at 45ish avg. mph around town. I know the
> correct answer is to do a complete rebuild. Can't quite pop for that
> right now, as there are too many other priorities for my next $3000.
>
> Compression check months ago was OK, no blue smoke at cold start up (even
> if sitting for days), no blue smoke at hard acceleration, or after idle -
> just no blue smoke at all. Idles and drives quite well, gets about 11
> mpg. Pulled the plugs yesterday after 3000 miles, and they were nicely
> tanned/greyed, clean everywhere except wet oil on the threads.
>
> Dave had mentioned earlier that big block Mopars have a tendency to need
> valve seals. If that is what's indicated by the above evidence, I could
> probably find the resources to pull the heads.
>
> Any expert (or otherwise) theories and thoughts would be most welcomed.
>
> Dan Richardson
> 300L Family Heirloom
>
>
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