Re: IML: REPLACE VALVE SEALS
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Re: IML: REPLACE VALVE SEALS



The air compressor trick works really well. I've done it a few times. My compression tester uses normal pneumatic fittings to connect the gauge to the hose with the spark plug fitting. By uncoupling the gauge from the hose, I can connect the line from the air compressor to the hose from the compression tester. Simply remove the schrader valve from the spark plug fitting and you are good to go.

Best regards,
Frank


On Nov 13, 2007, at 4:17 PM, Burton Bouwkamp wrote:

Dan,

There are at least two techniques for replacing the valve seals without removing the heads. One is with air pressure (through the spark plug hole) to hold the valves closed while removing/ installing the seals. Another is to insert 6 to 7 feet of nylon rope through the spark plug hole and compress it above the piston to hold the valves closed while removing/installing the seals.

I need to replace the valve seals on my 1968 Dodge Charger (383 "B" engine) but I haven't had the nerve to try either technique. Have any of the Imperial Club members had success with these techniques - or any other tricks that I don't know about.?

Burt Bouwkamp

----- Original Message ----- From: <therichardsonfamily@xxxxxxxxxxx>
To: "IML" <mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Tuesday, November 13, 2007 1:20 PM
Subject: IML: Oil usage theories


Hello everyone (& Dave):

I have excessive oil usage on my '67 Imperial engine. Not much of a surprise with 150K+, and sitting for a decade. 1 quart/150 miles at 70 mph, & 1 quart/300 miles at 45ish avg. mph around town. I know the correct answer is to do a complete rebuild. Can't quite pop for that right now, as there are too many other priorities for my next $3000.

Compression check months ago was OK, no blue smoke at cold start up (even if sitting for days), no blue smoke at hard acceleration, or after idle - just no blue smoke at all. Idles and drives quite well, gets about 11 mpg. Pulled the plugs yesterday after 3000 miles, and they were nicely tanned/greyed, clean everywhere except wet oil on the threads.

Dave had mentioned earlier that big block Mopars have a tendency to need valve seals. If that is what's indicated by the above evidence, I could probably find the resources to pull the heads.

Any expert (or otherwise) theories and thoughts would be most welcomed.

Dan Richardson
300L Family Heirloom


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