RE: IML: Starting my 64 Imperial/tangent
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RE: IML: Starting my 64 Imperial/tangent



Nope but when it comes to frequency and signals that becomes a factor.


From: kiwiimp65@xxxxxxxxxxx
To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: RE: IML: Starting my 64 Imperial/tangent
Date: Fri, 21 Dec 2007 08:12:05 +1200

The tale Rex tells of cables going bad reminds me of an issue I had with my powerboat(one day to be towed by an Imperial) where a power supply to an accessory stopped sending power. I thought Ha, must have a broken wire. Got curious and stripped it way back looking and the texture of the strand became brighter where it became live again. I could not get the dead end to come good even by scrubbing it.My question to all the clever electrical guys on this forum is: Does this mean the electrons or whatever you call em actually travel down the surface of any cable rather than through the cores? This has bugged me ever since.I have since abandoned cheap wire for my boat and only use tinned wire which Im told is more resistant to salty environments. Sorry Mark ,this is unlikely to solve your problem. Geoff Simpson


From: rexcarter@xxxxxxxxxxx
To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: IML: Starting my 64 Imperial
Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2007 12:50:07 +0000

Forgive me for weighing in so late on this. I once had a car that acted as you have described. I replaced many parts and performed much maintenance, only to eventually replace the battery cables antd achieve instant success. I cut the insulation down the length of the positive cable, and though the terminal clamp was all bright and shiny, the copper was as green as envy. It was indeed resistance to current flow.
 
-------------- Original message --------------
From: Mark Elliott <deadfishe@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>

> FIrst off I would like to thank all those who offered suggestions on
> my query about starting my Imperial. I have finally had time to go
> out and try some of the suggestions. Here is what I Have done so far.
>
> I checked the voltage at the terminals of he battery and it is 14.8
> volts. I took off the battery cables and cleaned the terminals and
> the battery cables. Measuring the voltage from the cable to the
> cables I also get 14.8 volts. I measured the ohms of the cables. On
> the positive cable I got .1 ohm, and on the negative cable I got
> about 1 ohm. Is that too high on either cable? The positive
> cable goes from the battery to the fender, and then there is another
> cable that runs from there to the starter. The resistance on the
> second cable was 0 according to my wife (I couldn't see the ohm meter)
>
> I did try hit hitting the starter with a rubber mallet incase it was
> just stuck, but that didn't make any difference.
>
> I am definitely hearing a click (like the solenoid) when I turn the
> key (though it is only a single click, rather than multiple (which is
> what I am more used to hearing). There were a couple of times where
> it sounded like the engine was starting to turn. So I am assuming
> that the engine isn't stuck (I haven't tried turning it by hand yet).
>
> Is it possible for the battery to have adequate voltage, but not
> enough current? I had planned on swapping out a different battery,
> but all my batteries are the front connect type, and the Imperial
> requires a top connect battery, plus the voltage seems reasonable.
>
> Any addit ional suggestions? My wife says to include that if anyone
> ones a 64 4 door, this one is available cheap. It is complete
> (though in pieces), with lots of spare parts. Though you will have
> to haul it away (after all, I can't get it started), and it will need
> to be moved soon.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Mark Elliott
> non starting 64 Imperial that needs to be moved.
>
>
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