IML: EL Instrument Clusters
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IML: EL Instrument Clusters



Hey Brandt,
There are very thin, coated "Litz Wires" that connect the high voltage AC power from the EL powerpack to the gauge needles. They typically oxidize into a verdigris powder and lose conductivity. I was pretty successful at using a flat copper tape to replace my Litz wires, it was flexible enough not to interfere with the movement of the needles, which is why the Litz wires were originally used. If someone out there could shed some light as to where Litz wire is available, many of us would appreciate it. I didn't find anything like it at my local electric supply store. JC Auto Restoration is reported to fix these gauges. They are listed in the repair vendors section.
It sounds like your EL powerpack is pumping out some power, thats half the battle. If some of the EL rods around the speedometer are glowing, then sometimes the trouble is that the little wire that is wrapped around one end of the rod has broken or has moved enough to not make contact with the dab of gray conductive paint that is on the plastic facia that the rods are screwed onto. If none of the rods glow, then sometimes the entire cluster isn't making good contact to ground due to insufficient torque on the number of screws that hold the housing onto the chromed front bezel. They need to be tight in order to compress the wound rod wires to the dabs of conductive paint. It could be that the dabs of paint have cracked and have lost conductivity to their next point of electrical flow. Also, some of the wound rod wires need to be pinched between the plastic facia and the metal housing, I think. Been a while since I've been in one of those clusters.


Eric
Portland, Oregon
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Clock glows but does not keep time.

Temperature Gauge - needle does not glow, also possibly a bad sender?

Speedometer - EL light does not work around it cannot see it at night.

Oil Guage - needle does not glow. needle goes almost all the way to =
high...

Gas Guage - Bad sender, needle does not glow.




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