Re: IML: annoying '68 headlight switch

[dardal@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx]

THis has been discussed many times.  All people with 67-68's need to do that
ASAP, even if they do not have problems with their switches.  In fact, even
this problematic switch may get cured with the relays, as the current draw may
go down by 10 times or more.  If not, Morgan's suggested surgery AND the relays
will do it.  I have relays only on the low beams since I rarely use high.

D^2, 2x68

Quoting "Hailey (Morgan) Moore" <materialgurl@xxxxxxxxx>:

> togeather. Then install the switch with a couple of relays for the
> high and low beams so it only has to carry the current for the relay.
> This worked great on my 67.
> 
> Has anyone else tried this?
> 
> -Hailey
> 
> 
> On Thu, 9 Dec 2004 01:45:27 EST, Jkelly808@xxxxxxx <Jkelly808@xxxxxxx>
> wrote:
> >  
> > I'm familiar with the world-renowned glitchiness of the headlight switch
> on
> > '67s and '68s. I guess I've been living on borrowed time -- with the
> > exception of a few times when they went out on me I've been able to get
> home
> > at night by jiggling the switch and saying my prayers. (The brights have
> > never worked reliably, despite a new floor switch). 
> > But in the past few days the lights go out after a couple of miles and no
> > amount of switch-jiggling will get them back on. 
> > I've kept my eyes open for a replacement switch and even stopped by Lowell
> > Howe's place when I was in California -- no luck. 
> > So what do I tell the guy at Wayne's Auto Electric to do -- rig some kind
> of
> > Rube Goldberg under-dash bypass switch? 
> > With aloha, 
> > Jim Kelly 
> > Honolulu 
> > '68 LeBaron 
> > '71 LeBaron
> 
> 
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