Having gone thru the whole schmeel, herez a summary-
Be sure U mark and record what shims are on what side of the car as U tear
down. Clean em up with lacq thinner and use a magic marker for L and R.
Then U can verify thicknesses, they are not marked but standard thicknesses
are
030, 010, 0125, and 005
If U have not have had noise, and if the old bearings are not worn, chipped,
discolored by heat, no flat spots etc, you will probably reuse them. Of
course U will check each race likewise, mark them also and replace on same
side.
Chances are probably 98 out of 100 U can just put all back together as they
came out. Clean em good, and repack with new wheel bearing grease.
NOW
If U had noise or other problems, or you install NEW bearings and races, you
may have to try to recalculate shim thicknesses each side and the axle end
play which is checked AFTER the shim clearances are set. I wont elaborate on
that now. Mest source I found was the 55/56 Chrysler shop manual. Also FYI
it appears these same axles were used back to 1946 at least so its possible
other year Mopar shop manuals have detailed info. Plymouth was very sketchy
with its info.
Back to reassembly using existing bearings.
IF you had read my earlier posts, you know you DON'T just tap the bearings and
race to a fully seated positon and button it all up. The bearing assemblys
(pressed onto the axle) and the loose race get pressed in place by the backing
plate with its shims. In other words, as you reinstall the axle and then tap
the race in place into the axle houseing recess, it MUST be sticking out a
small amount, from 1/64 to 3/64 inches. The shim thinkness sets the final
location of the depth of the race and bearing.
Install the new inner seal in the smaller recess, install the axle with its
cleaned and repacked bearing assembly with the key slot facing down, just
sliding it into the differential by feel and engage the splines. The axle now
has cantilever support from the differential splines. Use a 2" dia pipe with
a sleeve on it, be it metal or PVC pipe, to tap the race in place. This will
take some coordination, it is literally an interference fit. U may have to
carefully tap the race around the edges with a SMALL ball peen hammer to start
it, then finish with the pipe tool.
NOW
Do NOT drive the race home, leave the face of race projecting out say 1/32 to
3/64 inches, a feeler guage can be used to check. Once that is set, install
the backing place with its shims, using the 5 bolts to tighten in sequence
just like you do criss cross for your wheel nuts, alternating. Torque to
specs, was it 35 ft lbs? check manual, and you are done with that side.
Do same with other side as above.
When both sides R done, check axle endplay! (range is 003 to 008)
lightly tap ONE of the axle ends to seat the bearing, then move to opposite
side and use a dial indicator (or a helper with a steel ruler and feeler
guage) and with the axle end nut on, tug on the axle end to determine how much
end play there is. NOTE- if it is cool, you may not be able to get a reading
due to the newly greased bearings!!!!!!!!!! Bad news!!! Hence U should do
the work in 70 degree or better environment.
Be aware that for a fresh setup with new bearings the shop manual has you do
your shim calculations with a dry bearing then remove bearing and race, lube,
and reinstall it! Yep twice the work but U can feel/read the numbers much
easier.
Thats about it, hope this helps some.
Dont hurry, and think a lot as you do things.
Rotsa Ruck
Lars
|
|
Back to the Home of the Forward Look Network