And for the record, I was given a radiator cap at Carlile last year for my
55 Plymouth 6 cly and it was to be a 7 lb cap. When I got home, I cleaned
it up a bit and found it to be a 2 lb cap. didn't even know a 2 lb existed.
Jack 55 Plymouth
-----Original Message-----
From: Lars Larson 56 Plymouth <LARSPAINTR@xxxxxxx>
To: L-FORWARDLOOK@xxxxxxxxxxxxx <L-FORWARDLOOK@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Date: Sunday, July 18, 1999 2:13 PM
Subject: [FWDLK] thermostats, hot-hot-hot , and how 2 test
>Good info on Tstat posts!
>Nobody mentioned a 195 stat tho?????
>They are/were not uncommon...
>And nobody mentioned pressurized systems- my 41 utilizes no pressure, next
>cap is 4#, then about 7#, and 14 or 16 lbs. Hmmm just realized I used
that
>word again- system. The cooling system designed so all components work
>together.
>Course the radiator and complete system has to be able to withstand the
>presssure.... adding a 7# cap to a no pressure system could be a problem.
>And all the 57 and up carz are 'modern' and use pressure.
>I run a 180 stat in the 41, no problem with the no pressure system.
>Use a 195 in my 56, no problemo here either, it is a 7# cap with cellular
>(beehive core) radiator, but the AC cars used 14# and fin and tube!!!!
>Similar specs for the 66's but there were three cooling packages so U could
>get a designed heavy duty or AC cooling system.
> P26 and 27 used 195 deg opened and P 28 & 29 used 185 deg opened. However
>checking another Mopar reference a 180 degree stat was called out for the
>same application....
>Remember, these are HEAT engines. Within limits (caps and underlined?),
they
>run best when hot. Even for my 41...
>Why hot? better economy, better performance all around, lower emissions.
>Just dont slap a 14 psi cap and 195 stat in that 120,000 mile bargain!
>Happy motoring!
>L.
>PS= seems like as the years advanced it was 'standard' aftermarket practice
>to go up one step in stat heat- if a 180 was originally recc for winter,
most
>went to 195. And a 160 literally went the way of high button shoes.
>TESTING-
>with a closed thermostat, insert a .015 feeler gage into the opening and
>suspend stat in a container with water- the blade should be parallel to
the
>face of stat, and U may want to use a bent coathanger to provide
>supplementary holding of the bellows or bulb end during the test. Heat the
>water on stove and the temperature of the water when the stat falls
(releases
>its grip on the feeler blade) is the opening temp of the stat. If it is
>within 5 degrees F of the stamped rating, it is satisfactory for use. If
>temp diff is greater, replace. This is from a text on automotive engines
>service and replacement. Note your shop manual will probably have a
similar
>test in its Cooling section.
>
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