The dimming at idle is a problem with the laws of physics. The generator
makes electrical current by moving wires through a fixed magnetic field.
The magnetic field in a generator is not controlled by adjusting the field
current as in an alternator. The slower movement of wires at idle means
less current generated. when the current fells below the ability of the
regulator to maintain 13.5 volts, the voltage drops. When the voltage drops
to the battery voltage ~12 VDC the current through the lights drops
accordingly. The lower current from lower voltage makes the dim
illumination. Once the RPMs rise, the generator produces more current and
the regulator again regulates at 13.5 VDC and all is bright again. In
addition the battery charges to replace the current used during the time the
generator failed to supply sufficient current.
To make the lights stay bright the following signally or in combination are
required:
1. Use a generator with stronger permanent magnets to make a stronger
magnetic field. This will produce more current at low RPMs.
2. Use headlights that require less current.
3. Use an alternator that can increase field current during low RPM
periods.
The idea about the relays is a good one. The longer the wire from the
battery to the lights is the more resistance it has. The resistance limits
current flow. This is good when the lights first turns on because it limits
the inrush shock to the lamp filaments. The lights will last longer
therefore. It is bad because it limits current after the filaments in the
light have heated up and are glowing. This results in less than full
brightness. Using wire of a heavier/larger gage also reduces resistance and
thereby increases current. Increasing wire diameter 2 gage sizes gives 32%
less resistance.
Hope this helps.
-----Original Message-----
From: john g. photakis [mailto:owlshop@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Thursday, December 07, 2000 11:18 AM
To: L-FORWARDLOOK@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: [FWDLK] 6-12 v conversion
Will this work for headlights on a 300 that dim at idle? Still can't
seem to get them bright all the time...
John Photakis
Roy Asbjornsen wrote:
> In a message dated 12/7/00 5:40:26 AM Pacific Standard Time,
> WGraefen@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx writes:
>
> << Installing a relay inline with the
> headlight wiring as it passed near the battery gave absolute full voltage
to
> those bulbs. No loss in going through the headlight switch or dimmer
> switch. >>
> Wayne; Did that on a friends boom truck for turn signal lights. He had
added
> a lot of extra turn-brake lights and was burning up turn signal switches.
> Used one relay for left and one for right turn. Ran a wire (fused) from
> battery to the relays. Now the only current (all most nothing) that goes
> through the turn switch is the relays coils, the lights are twice as
bright,
> and no more burnt up turn switches. Love Relays
> <>Roy<>
>
> Roy Asbjornsen
> Puyallup Washington
> 55 Firedome 2/d h/t
> 72 Mercedes 350SL roadster
>
>
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