I'm sorry I wasn't very clear about my application. I have a 66 300 12v
alternator equiped vehicle. I've replaced the alternator,regulator, checked all
grounds, cleaned the bulkhead plug and terminals, switched to electronic
distributor and even bought a headlight brightener kit from Jacobs electronics
to bypass the switch. At idle its like a weak flashlight, crack the throttle
with the brightener kit, gives a sunburn on the back of the neck of the fool in
my way.Let off and it's like a dirty windshield. Frustrating my friends. What
did Mopar do wrong?
John
"Rimington, Ken" wrote:
> The dimming at idle is a problem with the laws of physics. The generator
> makes electrical current by moving wires through a fixed magnetic field.
> The magnetic field in a generator is not controlled by adjusting the field
> current as in an alternator. The slower movement of wires at idle means
> less current generated. when the current fells below the ability of the
> regulator to maintain 13.5 volts, the voltage drops. When the voltage drops
> to the battery voltage ~12 VDC the current through the lights drops
> accordingly. The lower current from lower voltage makes the dim
> illumination. Once the RPMs rise, the generator produces more current and
> the regulator again regulates at 13.5 VDC and all is bright again. In
> addition the battery charges to replace the current used during the time the
> generator failed to supply sufficient current.
>
> To make the lights stay bright the following signally or in combination are
> required:
>
> 1. Use a generator with stronger permanent magnets to make a stronger
> magnetic field. This will produce more current at low RPMs.
>
> 2. Use headlights that require less current.
>
> 3. Use an alternator that can increase field current during low RPM
> periods.
>
> The idea about the relays is a good one. The longer the wire from the
> battery to the lights is the more resistance it has. The resistance limits
> current flow. This is good when the lights first turns on because it limits
> the inrush shock to the lamp filaments. The lights will last longer
> therefore. It is bad because it limits current after the filaments in the
> light have heated up and are glowing. This results in less than full
> brightness. Using wire of a heavier/larger gage also reduces resistance and
> thereby increases current. Increasing wire diameter 2 gage sizes gives 32%
> less resistance.
>
> Hope this helps.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: john g. photakis [mailto:owlshop@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx]
> Sent: Thursday, December 07, 2000 11:18 AM
> To: L-FORWARDLOOK@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: Re: [FWDLK] 6-12 v conversion
>
> Will this work for headlights on a 300 that dim at idle? Still can't
> seem to get them bright all the time...
> John Photakis
>
> Roy Asbjornsen wrote:
>
> > In a message dated 12/7/00 5:40:26 AM Pacific Standard Time,
> > WGraefen@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx writes:
> >
> > << Installing a relay inline with the
> > headlight wiring as it passed near the battery gave absolute full voltage
> to
> > those bulbs. No loss in going through the headlight switch or dimmer
> > switch. >>
> > Wayne; Did that on a friends boom truck for turn signal lights. He had
> added
> > a lot of extra turn-brake lights and was burning up turn signal switches.
> > Used one relay for left and one for right turn. Ran a wire (fused) from
> > battery to the relays. Now the only current (all most nothing) that goes
> > through the turn switch is the relays coils, the lights are twice as
> bright,
> > and no more burnt up turn switches. Love Relays
> > <>Roy<>
> >
> > Roy Asbjornsen
> > Puyallup Washington
> > 55 Firedome 2/d h/t
> > 72 Mercedes 350SL roadster
> >
> >
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