Chris:
On the back of the engine, the five topmost bolts should be 3/8, and tapped
into the block. The bottom two bolts (one on the left, one on the right) should
be 7/16. The right one should be tapped; the left one should be a clearance
hole (which allowed a bolt that threaded into the spacer plate). For the top
bolts, use the holes at the 11 and one o'clock positions. For the bottom bolts,
use 7/16 bolts (the left one will require a nut). I use grade 5 bolts (even on
the Hemis), but just to be safe (since it is not my motor), you can use grade
eight bolts which are commonly carried at hardware and auto parts stores.
Tom Noonan
hullinger@xxxxxxxxxxxxx wrote:
> Welp, my dad and I spent most of the day today pulling the Red Ram out of
> my '58 Coronet. After using some 'choice' words for those stubborn motor
> mounts, exhaust pipe nuts and trans bolts, we were finally able to lift the
> engine out and cart it into the basement of my house. We removed the
> torque converter, fly wheel and the aluminum spacer and when we went to
> attach the engine stand to the back of the engine, we struggled but just
> couldn't find out where or how it attaches. This might be a kinda dumb
> question, but does anyone know how a universal engine stand bolts to the
> back of the engine? Should it bolt to the front of the engine instead?
> The bolt holes that are in the back of the engine are 7/16" and just don't
> seem strong enough to hold 640 pounds.
>
> Thanks,
> Chris
> Wilmington, DE
|
|
Back to the Home of the Forward Look Network