The instructions that came with the lift were very clear about this,
with all the info mentioned below. They also gave good instructions of
how to fix a too thin floor. Giving the size to cut out and depths to
make for the re-pouring of enough concrete to support the lift.
Including going under the existing floor at the edges of the hole to
give the new concrete more support.
My floor was 4" thick, and they recommend that you drill all the way
thru. This gives you an escape if a expansion bolt won't latch and
won't come back out. You can knock it thru into the dirt under the lift
and re-bolt. That was my only worry, that my floor was going to be too
thin. the shop was here when I bought my place.
The 8 bolts in the floor are 3/4" with expansion collars and worked
very well. It also can't fall over since it's tied into 3 roof trusses.
I over build everything and this lift and my installation fills the
bill for me.
Ray
On Oct 26, 2006, at 3:03 PM, Dave wrote:
Not being a civil engineer, I recommend you check with the
manufacturer to see what they recommend for footings. Local building
codes may also come into play. (I don't like gov. getting into my
life either, but the codes can save a life.) Many times the soil
under the concrete settles leaving a hollow area that can often be
heard if you hit the concrete with a 2x4. Again, as I mentioned
earlier with regard to welds, you certainly don't want a weld or the
floor failing when you or an expensive car is under the lift!!
Bend Pak states that for a 9,000 lb four post lift to have a minimum
thickness of 3-1/2", 2500 psi concrete. Note the word minimum. The
XL-9 (9,000 lb twin post) and PR-12F (12,000 lb twin post) require 4
inches and 6 inches, respectively, of 3000 psi concrete, as a minimum.
Just my opinion. Think of this as never, ever, getting under a car
with only a jack. The welds and concrete are the "jack stands".
Dave Moore
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