Re: [FWDLK] Lifts-Second Time

Title: Re: [FWDLK] Lifts-Second Time

When you purchase a home lift, you might have other priorities than a work lift.

I used to work in a Dodge dealership a long time ago.

AT home, I love my four-post lift from Backyard Buddy in Ohio.

No need for special concrete or footings. No drilling lag bolt holes.

No overhead connection. No special wiring.

No connection on the floor to try to roll a trans jack over, etc.

No lift in the way, because you can move it around with dolly's.

I can move mine around the shop by myself with my 68 Charger R/T on it.

Park my other car under it, if I like. I do.

You can roll them outside and use the lift and then roll them back

inside when you are finished if your shop doesn't have enough headroom.

The rolling jack platform works OK for me, and it is easy to adjust

the height and remove front or rear wheels from the car when on the lift.

You can raise it and use long axle stands and lower it with the rear of the car

supported "in the air" almost however you desire.

Runs off 110 volts with four posts locking in.

No worries about lifting points.

For a business, I might not, but for home I'll take the 4 post unit.

I'm a mechanical engineer, and I like the construction of the Backyard Buddy.

I brought it home on my car trailer and a couple of us put it together

over a Saturday. ( I don't work for them, or get any kickback. )

Tom S

Southern Ohio

From: Forward Look Mopar Discussion List on behalf of Ray Jones
Sent: Thu 10/26/2006 3:45 PM
To: L-FORWARDLOOK@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: [FWDLK] Lifts-Second Time

In my American Automotive Equipment Lift, there are twin hydraulic
cylinders, one in each post, the cables are an alignment device to keep
them in sync. They don't actually lift the car, just prevent one
cylinder from going up faster than the other. Also, the safety locks
are mechanical. They click into place as twin wedges on each post as
you go up, and you pull a cable release on each side to lower it.
Pretty simple and not subject to much failure , like losing air
pressure. It also has a leg lock. When it's totally down, each leg can
be moved under the car at will, but when it lifts up 1/2" the locking
device holds them from moving. I have had cars somewhat twisted and
that left 1 leg free to be moved totally out from under the car,
leaving it held up on 3 legs only. Found that out while under the car
and putting a tool on the leg, it swung away.
The lift also has a 1/8" cable which goes across the top a few inches
down from the crossover. This cable shuts off the pump if nudged,
preventing you from putting a tall vehicle too high and crunching it.
That's 3 safety devices, and it's parts are massive, with very nice
looking welds. I thought 9,000# was more than I needed, but for several
hundred more you can get 12K.

As to a 4 post lift, it depends on if you want a parking garage with
doing some work once in a while or you need to do a lot of car work. A
4 post has (Or should) drip trays to protect the car underneath. To
work on anything, you have to jack it up off the ramps and work around
the ramps. I've found that no matter what you want to do, the damn ramp
is in the way. Having done hundreds of alignments on ramp lifts, i know
of where I speak! So be sure of your needs. You can leave a car up on a
twin post as you let it down on the latches anytime you use it, but the
car under it can be dripped on.

This old guy ain't rolling around (let alone getting up from) a creeper
anymore!
Ray

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