Re: [FWDLK] overheating 413. any suggestions?
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Re: [FWDLK] overheating 413. any suggestions?



Hi Dave,
I had a similar experience with my 73 Charger.
Did a full rebuilt with a .030 overboar, etc. on a the stock 340.
Started overheating.
I never replaced the old water pump (looked good when I pulled it the first time).   I pull it and what do I find?  Impeller could be rotated without turning the pulley...so the impeller was stripped.  This version was aftermarket and used a metal impeller and a notched shaft.
So I replace it with new 8-blade Mopar high flow unit from Mancini Racing, and still running warm, not overheating, but warmer than it should...so I pull it and install a high flow metal disk to the new impeller (got it from Summit I think), and what do I find?  My radiator had filled with all the junk that had loosened up in the block during the rebuild!  Even though the block had been 'boiled' before the machining and rebuild. 
Had the radiator boiled/rodded out and that was it.
No more overheating.
Ran great even in the 100+ degree 100% humidity of the Ohio summer.

Just my pennies,
Charles.


David Homstad wrote:

I had a 383 in my 65 Dodge. When the engine suddenly began overheating when driving (it was fine at idle), I replaced the water pump. The original (as I received it) water pump had a plastic impeller on a splined shaft. Most of the plastic splines were stripped, except at one end. The good end would grip at idle, but slip back and slip at driving rpms. I checked the new replacement pump, which had a metal impeller pressed on the shaft, but I could turn it with a little pressure, maybe 10 ft lbs. So I returned it for another new pump.

 

Dave Homstad

56 Dodge D500

 

-----Original Message-----
From: Forward Look Mopar Discussion List [mailto:L-FORWARDLOOK@xxxxxxxxxxxxx]On Behalf Of William Huff
Sent: Friday, June 20, 2008 8:07 PM
To: L-FORWARDLOOK@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: [FWDLK] overheating 413. any suggestions?

 

Hi Mel,

I have read about this controversy before, the opinion of engine builders seems to be that changing the cylinder wall thickness by .030" per side will not make an engine overheat.  As far as my research has shown, thin cylinder walls can affect ring seal under load, and of course, too thin can lead to failure.  It is hard to follow the logic that too thin can cause less heat transfer to the surrounding water.

I have experienced engines with clogs in the water jacket.  These were auto engines used in boats (Mercruiser) many years ago.  Sealing the engine block and putting a dilute muriatic acid solution in the water jackets for a few hours seemed to leave them in good shape, all corrosion was gone but the base metal was unaffected.

Also, why do you believe that 200 degrees is overheating?  A pressurized radiator system is made to be capable of over 212 degrees, and I believe they do run in that neighborhood, no matter what thermostat you put in.  Where you measure the temperature may be a key factor as well, is the sender in the stock location?  Some threaded holes may be hotter than others.

Another question is, when does the temperature climb?  Running on the freeway or stuck in traffic or is the same all the time?

One thing that you can do is remove the radiator cap (cold) and run the engine.  Make sure that the water level goes down when the engine is revved slightly and that the water is circulating after the thermostat is open.  I assume you put a new water pump in, but I have had two RB engines that had the impeller slide backwards on the shaft and grind the blades shorter.  Temperatures went up then.

Regards,

Bill Huff




I recently bored a 413 .030 and am having trouble with it overheading..  Im on my 4rth radiator and 3rd fan.  No matter what I do, idle or down the road, Im running 205-215degrees.  Used a mechanical gauge, mark 8 fan, 3 water  pumps, 2 copper and 3 allum new radiators, Im at wits end.. any ideas from past experience?  Im starting to wonder if the .060 was too much…  any comments?
 
mel


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