Re: [FWDLK] Hissy-fitting brake booster
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Re: [FWDLK] Hissy-fitting brake booster




with the pushrod in the manual position- it becomes "easier" to push the pedal down- it will also be "easier" for the booster to assist- so if you were to drill the pedal arm for manual position in a pwr brake setup- i would imagine, once the pedal moved enough to activate the vacuum shuttle valve and engage power boost- it would probably push the pedal right down without footwork- considering the lower amount of resistance allowed by the leverage advantage of the manual pedal:piston travel ratio- or at least make the car real jerky trying to stop....


-----Original Message-----
From: Eastern Sierra Adjustment Svc <esierraadj@xxxxxxxxxxx>
To: L-FORWARDLOOK@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Wed, Feb 10, 2010 3:10 pm
Subject: Re: [FWDLK] Hissy-fitting brake booster

I kinda suspected that there would be a pedal travel difference between 
manual and power braking systems. 
 
I wonder how the manual brake pedal position would affect the 
application-operation of the power brakes? 
 
Seems like an easy-enuf project/experiment.... 
 
Neil Vedder 
 
 
 
Jan & Roger van Hoy wrote: 
> The pedal travel is less on a power brake unit of that vintage; if you > put that linkage on a manual system you may run out of travel and the > pedal hit the floor before stopping the car. Even if you resolve that > problem, it might require two-foot braking to achieve sufficient > pressure on the master cylinder to stop the car. 

> --Roger van Hoy 


> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Eastern Sierra Adjustment Svc" > <esierraadj@xxxxxxxxxxx
> To: <L-FORWARDLOOK@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Sent: Wednesday, February 10, 2010 12:36 PM 
> Subject: [FWDLK] Hissy-fitting brake booster 


>> Well, for anyone interested, you might recall that my car's 
>> canister-type power 
>> brake booster has been hissing badly, whenever the pedal is >> depressed, and 
>> that I'd been quoted O/H prices of several hundreds, and up, for >> that work. 
>> 
>> When this condition occurs, with our cars, a mere reversion to manual- 
>> braking-effort results, and if so, that is NO big-deal, believe me. >> Biggest 
>> PITA is the hissing noise, at red lights (so, don't STOP there, I hear 
>> you say). 
>> 
>> As I never like risking sending out an essential part with the car >> remaining 
>> undriveable, I bought a flea-pay booster, very economically, which 
>> was claimed 
>> to be in working condition, and sent it out to "Booster Dewey", in 
>> Portland OR 
>> for O/H, at the VERY reasonable cost of $175.00. 
>> 
>> They just called and will be returning that guy to me; they say that 
>> they use a very 
>> viscous lubricant to seal up the booster's internal compression. 
>> 
>> I've asked them to send me some pics of their representative internal 
>> work, as I may be 
>> praising their product to others. They say that my 'new' booster has 
>> been tested by 
>> them to work like a champ! 
>> 
>> So, I may be interested in selling my car's canister to someone who 
>> might be interested 
>> in having IT be O/H'ed, and installed in (one of-) your car(s), too. 
>> 
>> Anyway: and here's a question for you Engineering-types: the manual 
>> brakes apparently 
>> have a different configuration of the brake pedals/system, from the 
>> power brake models (called 
>> the "aspect ratio"--IIRC) which allow for different p.s.i. line pressure 
>> ratings, between the two 
>> systems. 
>> 
>> E.G.: according to the 1957 D501 A.M.A. specs, the manual brakes have a 
>> 750 p.s.i. 
>> rating, while the power brakes have a 1,100 p.s.i. rating ; a 
>> considerable difference. 
>> 
>> (Here it comes: ) so, to what extent would a manual brake car realize 
>> an increase in 
>> braking effort/effect if a power brake's pedal-lever-connections were 
>> to be installed 
>> onto it, and, vice-versa---given, that the master cylinders are 
>> identical, which I 
>> believe that they are???? 
>> 
>> 
>> Neil Vedder 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
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