Re: [FWDLK] Engine running fine...dies...won't re-start
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Re: [FWDLK] Engine running fine...dies...won't re-start



john and others.....  this is true- very replaceable item, i've done it short of 10 times now- my only mistake was using cork material the first 2 times- there is only one cork composit grade meant to be constantly in contact with fual- the same grade used on early holley float bowls- this is an uncommon grade available in sheets at the auto parts store.
the orig seal was a rubber, trapezoidal o-ring, that when removed, is either smeared or in pieces, rotted, or just plain black mush!
i used neoprene o-rings, i think it was a 15/16 diameter by 1/8 or 3/16 that worked best, again, lubricate the ring/plug/tank surface after cleaning well, the lubrication will allow the o-ring to seat without smearing or tearing



-----Original Message-----
From: Bjwt56@xxxxxxx
To: L-FORWARDLOOK@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Tue, Jul 6, 2010 9:44 am
Subject: Re: [FWDLK] Engine running fine...dies...won't re-start

Folks:
 
    I just read that reseating the plug on the bottom of the gas tank is not possible.  That is not true.  A gasket can be easily made from cork gasket material about 1/8 inch thick.  I know because I did it. Put grease on the cork gasket before installing so when you tighten the plug you do not tear up the gasket.  Do not over tighten.
 
    John Teske
 
In a message dated 7/5/2010 8:54:28 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, esierraadj@xxxxxxxxxxx writes:
I drove my car, literally, for years before I found out that there was
supposed
to be a (ceramic) filter inside the glass fuel filter bowl...

Neil Vedder



Ron Waters wrote:
> Garrett -
>
> If you are trying to diagnose this problem, I wouldn't worry about the fuel
> filter for now. I've run my 58 Ply without a ceramic filter and it works
> fine. If it's broken, then remove it so that small chips don't break off and
> get stuck in the carb's needle and seat. In fact, it's possible that this
> could be the problem.
>
> If you have old gas in the tank, remove it and flush it out. Do NOT attempt
> to remove the drain plug in the bottom of the tank. You will never re-seat
> it to the point that it doesn't leak.
>
> While you have the tank off, pull the sending unit and put a new filter on
> the pickup tube end. Have you ever done this since you've owned the car ?
> It'll prevent you from having similar problems down the road that may result
> from crap getting in the line.
>
> How long has it been since the carb was rebuilt ? If that has never been
> done and the above doesn't solve the problem, then that should be your next
> area of attention.
>
> Don't look for a quick fix. Use the above to solve the problem. Let us know
> if you have any questions.
>
> Ron
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Garrett" <TheBulkster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> To: <L-FORWARDLOOK@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Sent: Monday, July 05, 2010 5:50 PM
> Subject: Re: [FWDLK] Engine running fine...dies...won't re-start
>
>
>  
>> Anyone know of their local parts store carrying a filter element that will
>> work as at least a temporary solution to the ceramic element?
>>
>> Anyone have luck at a tractor supply or the like finding something that
>>    
> will
>  
>> fit?
>>
>> I have an old ceramic filter that appears to have been used, and the one
>>    
> in
>  
>> there was cracked (and broke into two pieces, which may have been my
>> doing...at least in part).
>>
>> The car started this morning in the first turn, I gave it a little gas,
>>    
> and
>  
>> then it died....no restart.  Still wet around the carb.  Otherwise the
>>    
> going
>  
>> has been slow for various (mostly non-car related) reasons.
>>
>> -Garrett
>>    
>
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