Re: [FWDLK] WHO CAN DO SOLDERING

In a message dated 8/19/2011 2:20:02 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, esierraadj@xxxxxxxxxxx writes:

On that Pertronix electronic ignition conversion, Dave forgot
to mention (for shame, Dave) that you will need to acquire a
dual-point distributor, and/or a dualie's upper cam-and-plate
assembly (to install into a single-point dissie, if that's what you
have, now, or, the dualie can be used to replace the entire
single-point dissie).

The C&P is needed to accommodate the Pertronix "under-
cap" (hidden-) electronic ignition system.

At this point, there is a myriad of 'new' issues about the
performance of your existing dissie and/or a replacement
dualie-dissie, but, any replacement drop-in dualie-dissie
must have a shaft length equal to your existing dissie.

There are two different shaft lengths on the FWDLK
dissies, depending on the year/model of your car.

A dualie FWDLK-era C&P will retrofit into any other
FWDLK dissie, however, for a Pertronix installation.

And, this is the (very-) SHORT answer about installing
a Pertronix system, (and, possibly, hot-rodding your
car's distributor's performance; but, that's a completely
different, additional very-long story!).

Altho a ballast resistor is not needed w/a Pertronix
system, you can keep your car's B.-A. still installed,
but, merely not connected to the distributor.

The Pertronix, all by itself, will NOT improve your
car's performance (that's what the hot-rodded dissie
does); it will only make the car's 'spark' consistent,
hot, and reliable.

Now I know why Dave forgot to mention how/why
a Pertronix might be installed in a dissie!!!

Neil Vedder

Dave Homstad wrote:
> Ed,
>
> Some things to consider:
> 1. You need a 1 ohm resistor that can handle several amps of current.
> It also should be a "wire wound" style. These are intended to allow
> maximum current flow when cold, and increase resistance as they warm
> up to reduce current flow to the ignition coil.
> 2. These resistors run HOT. You should use a high temperature solder.
> 3. I see on eBay a modern ballast resistor for sale all the time.
> Looks nearly identical to the old style except the terminals are
> different.
> 4. For my car, I bought a ballast resistor RU13 (looks like the
> original except for the terminals, from Car Quest, 1.6 ohms).
> 5. If you convert to a PerTronix, you don't even need a ballast
> resistor if you use their coil or one with an internal resistance.
>
>
> Dave Homstad
> 56 Dodge D500
>
> On Thu, Aug 18, 2011 at 4:02 PM, eddee@xxxxxxxxxxxxx wrote:
>
>> Hello Members
>>
>> I have an orig 1957/58 ballast resister (very rare as we all
>> know),,,,,,,,,,,,,,,but the resister wire on the back side is shot.
>>
>> I have been looking locally for a shop to solder in a new in line 1
>> ohm resister between the two terminals
>>
>> Job is too small--they are not interested.
>> but it is somewhat intricate since you almost have to solder it blind.
>>
>> ANY SUGGESTIONS --Can any of you do this type of soldering??
>>
>> ED ECKERSON
>> LI NY
>>
>> *************************************************************
>>
>> To unsubscribe or set your subscription options, please go to
>> http://lists.psu.edu/cgi-bin/wa?SUBED1=l-forwardlook&A=1
>
> *************************************************************
>
> To unsubscribe or set your subscription options, please go to
> http://lists.psu.edu/cgi-bin/wa?SUBED1=l-forwardlook&A=1
>

*************************************************************

To unsubscribe or set your subscription options, please go to
http://lists.psu.edu/cgi-bin/wa?SUBED1=l-forwardlook&A=1